2  V 

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https://archive.org/details/tourfromcityofneOOdarb_0 


^    TO  IT  R 


FJIOM  THE  CITY  OP  NEW-YORK, 

IN  THE  MICHIGAN  TERRITO 

MADE  BETWEEN  THE  2d  OF  MAY  AND  THE  22d  OF  SEPTEMBER,  1818, 

The  Tour  extends  from  New-York,  by  Albany,  Schenectady,  and  Utica,  to 
Sacket's  Harbor,  and  thence  through  Lake  Ontario,  to  St.  Lawrence  river,  and 
down  that  stream  to  Hamilton  village.  Thence  along  both  banks  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, from  Hamilton  to  the  Thousand  Islands  ;  thence  to  Sacket's  Harbor  by 
water  ;  from  that  place  by  the  route  of  great  Sodus,  Geneva,  Canandaigua,  and 
Batavia,to  Buffalo;  and  from  thence  to  Black  Rock,  Fort  Erie,  the  Falls  of  Ni- 
agara, Qucenstown,  Lewiston,  and  the  memorable  fields  of  Bridgewater  and 
Chippewa.  After  viewing  the  interesting  pass  of  Niagara,  the  author  traversed 
the  south  shore  of  Lake  Erie  to  the  City  of  Detroit,  and  visited  in  the  latter  range 
Dunkirk,  Erie,  Cleveland,  Sandusky,  and  other  places  of  less  note. 

The  Tour  contains  notices  of  what  fell  under  the  author's  observation  concern,, 
lag  the  natural  history  and  geography  of  the  region  over  which  his  travels  ex- 
tended, with  brief  remarks  upon  such  remarkable  events  and  characters  as  have 
ii'ontributed  to  give  interest  to  different  places. 

THE  TOUR  IS  ACCOMPANIED  WITH  A  MAP  UPON  WHICH  THE 
ROUTE  WILL  BE  DESIGNATED  ;  A  PARTICULAR  MAP 
OP  THE  PALLS  AND  RIVER  OP  NIAGARA, 
AND  THE  ENVIRONS  OP  THE 
CITY  OP  DETROIT, 


BY  WILLIAM  DARBY, 

MEMEER  OF  THE  NEW" YORK  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY. 

.Author  of  a  Map  and  Statistical  Account  of  Louisiana;  and  Emigrant's  Guide 


NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED  FOR  THE  AUTHOR,  BY  KIRK  &  MERCEIN, 

And  sold  by  Kirk  h  Mercein,  A.  T.  Goodrich  k  Co.  James  Eastburn  &  Co  W  B 
Gilley,  Charles  Wiley  &  Co.  R.  M'Dermut,  William  Hooker,  and  Collins  h  Co 
JNew-Yorkj  and  by  some  others  of  the  principal  Booksellers  in  the  Unite.1 
States, 

1819. 


>OUi  HERN  DiSf  illCf  OF  NEW-YOllK,  ss, 

BE  i  r  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  sixteenth  da £  of  January, 
in  the  Eorty-third  year  of  the  independence  of  the  United  States 
Hili%IJS  °^  America,  A.  D.  !8l9,  WILLIAM  DARBY,  of  the  said  district, 
vM^'?V   ^atli  deposed  in  this  office  the  Title  of  a  Book,  the  right  whereof 
V^Jy^i1*     lie  claims  as  Proprietor,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 

"  A  Tour  from  the  City  of  New-York,  to  Detroit,  in  the  Michigan  Territory, 
made  between  the  2d  of  May,  and  the  22d  of  September,  1818.  The  Tour  ex- 
tends from  NewrYork,  by  Albany,  Schenectady,  and  Utica,  to  Sacket's  Harbor, 
rind  thence  through  Lake  Ontario,  to  St.  Lawrence  river,  and  down  that  stream 
to  Hamilton  village.  Thence  alongboth  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  Ha- 
milton to  the  Thousand  Islands  ;  thence  to  Sacket's  Harbor  by  water  ;  from  that 
place  by  the  route  of  great  Sodus,  Geneva,  Canandaigua,  and  Batavia,  to  Buffa- 
lo ;  and  from  thence  to  Black  Rock, F ort  Erie,  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  Queenstown, 
Lewiston,  and  the  memorable  fields  of  Bridge  water  and  Chippewa.  After  view- 
ing the  interesting  pass  of  Niagara,  the  author  traversed  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Erie  to  the  City  of  Detroit,  and  visited  in  the  latter  range  Dunkirk,  Erie, 
Cleveland,  Sandusky,  and  other  places  of  less  note.  The  Tour  contains  notices 
of  what  fell  under  the  author's  observation  concerning  the  natural  history  and 
geography  of  the  region  over  which  his  travels  extended,  with  brief  remarks 
upon  such  remarkable  events  and  characters  as  have  contributed  to  give  interest 
to  different  places,  The  Tour  is  accompanied  with  a  Map  upon  which  the  route 
will  he  designated  :  a  particular  Map  of  the  Falls  and  River  of  Niagara,  and  the 
environs  of  the  City  of  Detroit.  By  William  Darby,  Member  of  the  JNew- 
Vork  Historical  Society.  Author  of  a  Map  and  Statistical  Account  of  Louisia- 
na :  and  Emigrant's  Guide." 

In  conformity  to  the  v\ct  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled,  "  An 
Act  for  tiie  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts, 
and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  time  there- 
in mentioned.** — And  also  to  the  Act,  entitled,  "  An  Act  supplementary  to  an 
Act,  entitled  an  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies 
of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  du- 
ring the  times  therein  mentioned,  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts 
■M'  desigiiifig,  eng^avin^',  and  etching  historical  and  other  prints/' 

JAMES  DILL,  Clerk  of  the  Southern  District  of  New-York. 


«  I  wrapped  myself  in  my  cloak,  and  lay  down  under  a 
laurel,  on  the  bank  of  the  Eurotas.  The  night  was  so  purr 
and  so  serene,  and  the  milky  way  shed  such  a  light,  reflected 
by  the  current  of  the  river,  that  you  might  see  to  read  by  it, 
I  fell  asleep  with  my  eyes  fixed  upon  the  heavens,  having  the 
beautiful  constellation  of  Leda's  swan  exactly  over  my  head, 
I  still  recollect  the  pleasure  which  I  formerly  received  from 
thus  reposing  in  the  woods  of  America,  and  especially  from 
awaking  in  the  middle  of  the  night.  I  listened  to  the  whist- 
ling of  the  wind  through  the  wilderness ;  the  braying  of  the 
does  and  stags;  the  roar  of  a  distant  cataract;  xvhile  tint 
embers  of  my  half  extinguished  fire,  gloived  between*  the  foli- 
age of  the  trees.  I  loved  even  to  hear  the  voice  of  the  Iro- 
quois, when  he  shouted  in  the  recesses  of  his  forests,  and  when, 
in  the  brilliant  star-light,  amid  the  silence  of  nature,  he  seem* 
ed  to  be  proclaiming  his  unbounded  liberty*  Ml  this  may  af- 
ford delight  at  twenty  ;  because,  then  life  suffices,  in  a  man- 
ner, for  itself,  and  there  is  in  early  youth,  a  certain  restless* 
uess  and  inquietude,  which  incessantly  encourage  the  creation 
of  chimeras,  ipsi  sibi  somniafingunt:  but  in  maturer  age,  the 
mind  contracts  a  relish  for  more  solid  pursuits,  and  loves,  in 
particular,  io  dwell  on  the  illustrious  examples  recorded  in 
history.  Gladly  ivould  I  again  make  my  couch  on  the  banks 
of  the  FAirotas,  or  the  Jordan,  if  the  heroic  shades  of  the 
three  hundred  Spartans,  or  the  twelve  sons  of  Jacob,  were  to 
visit  my  slumbers  ;  but  I  would  not  go  again  to  explore  a  vir- 
gin soil,  which  the  ploughshare  has  never  lacerated.  Give 
me  now  ancient  deserts,  xvhere  I  can  conjure  up  at  plea  surf, 


3  V  PREFACE.  «^ 

the  walls  of  Babylon,  or  the  legions  of  P7i«rgaft«— grandia 
osa ;  plains  whose  f  urrows  convey  instruction,  and  where, 
mortal  as  J  am,  I  trace  the  Mood,  the  tears,  and  the  sweat,  of 
human  kind"* 

I  cannot  conceive  the  satisfaction  it  can  give,  to  a  generous 
and  feeling  heart  to  trace  the  last  fragments  of  a  ruined  ci- 
ty, 1>r  behold  reduced  to  desolation,  fields  that  once  waved  in 
golden  harvest.  To  the  eye  of  reason  and  philosophy,  a  re- 
view may  be  desirable  of  the  revolutions  of  human  society* 
in  all  the  various  stages  from  the  savage  horde  to  the  most 
refined  civilization  ;  but  to  me,  it  M  ould  yield  more  pain  than 
gratification,  to  behold  Rome,  Athens,  or  Jerusalem,  in  dust 
and  ashes.  The  reminiscence  that  should  reeal  former  great- 
ness, that  would  raise  in  imagination  trom  the  tomb  the  Peri- 
cles, Euripides,  Maccabees,  the  Scipios  or  the  Csesars, 
would  excite,  rather  a  tear  of  bitter  regret,  than  a  pleasing 
sentiment  of  poetic  enthusiasm,  on  glancing  over  the  ocean 
of  past  time.  I  would  rather  indulge  my  fancy  in  following 
the  future  progress,  than  in  surveying  the  wreck  of  human 
happiness;  I  would  rather  see  one  flourishing  village  rising 
from  the  American  wilderness,  than  behold  the  ruins  of  Bal- 
bec,  Palmyra,  and  Perse pol  is. 

Like  Chateaubriand,  I  have  often  reposed  in  the  woods  and 
plains  of  North  America,  in  the  silence  of  night,  under  the 
glances  of  the  swan  of  Leda,  the  gleams  of  Sinus,  or  the 
beams  of  the  pale  moon  playing  amid  the  leaves  of  the  fo- 
rest, or  exhibiting  the  fairy  picture  of  the  distant  prairie, 
I  have  thus  often  in  the  awful  solitude  of  the  cane  brake, 
or  the  cedar  groves,  contemplated  the  rapid  march  of  active 
industry;  I  have  fancied  the  rise  of  towns  and  villages,  the 
clearing  of  fields,  the  creation  of  rich  harvests,  of  orchards* 
meadows,  and  pastures.  I  have  beheld  the  deep  gloom  around 
me  dispelled,  the  majestic  but  dreary  forest  disappeared,  the 
savage  was  turned  into  civilized  man ;   schools,  colleges^ 


*  Travels  in  Greece,  Palestine,  Egypt,  and  Barbary,  by  F.  A. 
de  Chateaubriand;  Sfcorbell's  translation,  N.'Y.  p.  109. 


t 


PREFACE. 


churches,  and  legislative  halls  arose.  The  liver,  upon  whose 
bunks  now  grew  the  tangled  vine,  and  in  whose  waters  the 
loathsome  alligator  floated,  became  covered  with  barks  load- 
ed with  the  produce  of  its  shores  ;  1  heard  the  songs  of  joy 
and  gladness  ;  I  beheld  fair  science  shed  her  smiles  upon  a 
happv  and  enlightened  people ;  1  beheld  the  heavenly  form 
of  religion,  clothed  in  the  simple  garb  of  love  and  truth, 
teaching  the  precepts  of  present  and  everlasting  peace;  I 
saw  liberty  and  law  interposing  between  the  shafts  of  op- 
pression and  the  bosom  of  innocence  ;— and  I  saw  the  stern 
brow  of  justice  bedewed  with  a  tear  over  the  chastised  vic- 
tim. 

Many  were  the  long  and  tedious  hours  I  have  thus  beguil- 
ed, when  no  sound  interrupted  my  chain  of  reflection, 
except  the  sighing  of  the  nightly  breeze,  and  I  have  enjoyed 
a  pleasure  greater  than  man  ever  felt  amongst  "  broken  co- 
lumns and  disjoined  arcades."  I  have  seen  on  an  immense 
surface,  these  warm  anticipations  realized.  In  west  Virgi- 
nia, in  west  Pennsylvania,  in  Kentucky,  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illi- 
nois, Tennessee,  Missouri,  Mississippi,  Louisiana,  and  Ala- 
bama ;  in  west  New-York,  Michigan,  and  in  Canada,  I  have 
for  thirty-five  years,  been  a  witness  to  the  change  of  a  wil- 
derness to  a  cultivated  garden-  I  have  roamed  in  forests,  and 
upon  the  same  ground  now  stand  legislative  halls,  and  tem- 
ples of  religion.  New  states  have  risen,  and  are  daily  rising 
upon  this  once  dreary  waste.  1  am  willing  to  leave  the  man 
unenvied  to  his  enjoyments,  who  would  prefer  the  barbaric 
picture  uow  presented  by  Greece,  Asia  Minor,  Syria,  and 
Palestine,  t  j  the  glowing  canvass  whose  tints  are  daily  be- 
coming richer  and  stronger,  upon  the  livers  and  hills  of 
North  America,  I  would  rather  read  the  immortal  works 
of  Homer,  Thucidydes,  or  Demosthenes,  upon  the  banks  of 
She  Ohio  or  St.  Lawrence,  than  search  the  deserted  tombs  of 
I  hose  mighty  geniuses,  in  their  now  desolate  native  land. 
These  men  have  left  their  bones  to  oblivion,  their  works 
they  have  bequeathed  to  the  human  race.    Amid  the  thou- 


\\  PKEFACE. 

sand  objects  that  are  constantly  before  the  mental  eye,  m 
this  new  moral  creation,  none  is  more  wonderful  or  more  al- 
luring than  the  existence  of  more  than  a  thousand  semina- 
ries of  education,  where  less  than  thirty  years  past,  stood  no- 
mansion  of  civilized  man. 

In  this  as  in  every  other  of  my  works,  I  have  given  my 
naked  reflections  to  the  reader.  Too  much  of  my  life  has 
been  spent  in  actual  travelling,  to  admit  the  order  and  polish 
of  a  writer  who  enjoyed  more  closet  leisure  ;  but  to  relate 
what  I  saw,  needed  not  a  linished  erudition,  it  demanded  afr 
respect  for  truth  and  human  esteem  ;  a  respect,  the  sense  of 
which  I  trust  never  to  lose,  until  I  cease  to  exist  amongst 
mankind. 

WILLIAM  DARBY. 

New-Fork,  January  i,  1819, 


TO  THE  READER. 


Before  perusing  this  treatise,  the  reader  is  respectfully  requested  to  observe 
and  note  the  following  omissions  and  corrections. 

I  find  on  reviewing  the  sheets,  that  I  have  not  been  sufficiently  explicit  in  my 
notices  of  the  following  places,  upon  the  St.  Lawrence  river  :  Hamilton,  Og- 
densburgh,  Prescott,  Brockville,  and  Morristown.  I  have  subjoined  the  follow- 
ing brief  description  of  these  towns  : 

Hamilton,  is  a  village  in  St.  Lawrence  county,  in  the  state  of  New-York,  stand- 
ing upon  the  bank  of  St.  Lawrence  river,  opposite  Ogden's  island.  This  village 
has  been  recently  established  ;  it  is  thriving,  and  like  all  towns  upon  the  St. 
Lawrence,  has  a  fine  effect,  from  the  gentle  acclivity  of  the  ground  upon  which 
it  stands.  The  soil  in  this  neighborhood  is  excellent ;  timber,  composed  of  hem- 
lock, pine,  and  sugar  maple. 

Ogdenshurgh  stands  upon  the  lower  point  of  land,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the 
Oswegatchie  with  the  St.  Lawrence  river;  the  site  is  high,  and  like  all  other 
parts  of  the  St.  Lawrence  banks,  rises  by  gradual  acclivity  from  the  water.  Og- 
densburg  is  the  seat  of  justice  in  and  for  St.  Lawrence  county,  and  has  a  pros- 
perous appearance,  with  a  post-office,  three  or  four  taverns,  eight  or  ten  stores, 
several  mechanics'  shops,  such  as  carpenters,  hatters,  shoemakers,  and  fay* 
lors.  The  town  contains  about  80  dwelling-houses,  and  about  400  inhabitants. 
The  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie  river  forms  a  good  harbor  for  small  vessels. 

Prescott)  in  the  township  of  Augusta,  county  of  Grenville,  stands  upon  the  Can- 
ada shore  of  St.  Lawrence  river,  opposite  Ogdensburg.  The  two  towns  do  not 
/differ  much  in  extent  or  number  of  inhabitants.  Prescott  is  the  seat  of  justice 
for  the  county  in  which  it  is  situated,  and  is  a  flourishing,  commercial  village. 

Prescott  and  Ogdensburg,  occupy  the  lowest  points  of  ship  navigation  from 
lake  Ontario  ;  two  steam-boats  are  in  operation  between  these  towns,  and 
Kingston,  Sacket's  Harbor,  and  other  places  in  lake  Ontario. 

Brockville,  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Leeds,  Upper  Canada,  stands 
upon  the  bank  of  St.  Lawrence,  in  Elizabeth  township,  18  miles  above  Prescot  t 
The  situation  of  Brockville  is  pleasing  and  romantic.  The  banks  on  the  Cana- 
da side,  above  and  below  the  town,  are  high,  rocky,  and  precipitous,  and  the 
river  chequered  with  islands.  The  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  in  the  state  of 
New-York,  is  yet  a  forest.  The  neighborhood  around  Brockville  is  well  culti- 
vated and  populous;  the  town  is  flourishing  and  commercial. 

Morristown  is  a  small  village  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  the  county  of  St.  Law- 
rence, about  two  miles  below  Brockville.  This  village  has  but  little  to  render  \\ 
remarkable,  consisting  only  of  about  a  dozen  houses,  with  a  post-office. 

Describing  Utica,  (see  page  55)  I  omitted  to  mention  its  fine  bridge  over  the 
Mohawk  river, 


Vili 


TO  THE  READER; 


Page  27,  third  line  of  the  note,  for  "  this  latter  circumstance,  ivas,  however,  il& 
doubt"  read,  this  latter  circumstance  was  no  doubt. 

Page  37,  9th  line  from  the  top,  for  "from  the  margin  dell,"  read  from  the  mar- 
gin. 

Page  55,  fourth  line  from  the  top,  for  "  city  of  Utica"  read,  town  of  Utica. 
Page  59,  line  12th  from  the  top,  for  "  colonial"  read,  colloquial. 
Page  61,  third  line  from  tiie  top,  for  "  producing  effects,"  read,  which  produced 
effects. 

Page  72,  line  11th  from  the  bottom,  for  "  side  land"  read,  land  side. 

Page  73,  lines  four  and  five  from  the  bottom,  for  "  ten  or  twelve  miles,"  read, 
two  or  three  miles. 

Page  91,  line  15th  from  the  top,  for  "  muddings"  read  muddiness. 

Page  118  ;  I  there  mention  an  intention  to  note  the  comparative  quantity  of 
water  in  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Mississippi  rivers,  but  have  omitted  that  of 
the  latter  ;  the  reader  will  please  substitute  for  ("  see  appendix,  No.  2,")  the 
following  words,  applied  to  the  Mississippi  : 

"  We  may  imagine  a  semi-ellipsis,  whose  longitudinal  diameter  represents  the 
river's  breadth,  and  whose  longest  ordinate,  its  depth  ;  allow  150  feet  as  the 
length  of  the  ordinate  line,  or  depth  of  water  at  the  greatest  elevation,  and  2,400 
feet  as  the  extent  of  the  elliptical  diameter  or  river's  breadth,  we  are  confident 
that  those  constituent  principles  will  give  a  very  correct  result.  From  the  ap- 
plication of  the  above  elements,  141,372  cubic  feet  would  be  contained  within 
one  foot  longitudinal  section  of  the  river.  At  the  rate  of  one  mile  an  hour, 
5,280  feet  in  length  would  be  discharged  every  hour,  or  746,444,160  cubic  feets 
of  the  entire  mass ." 

[Darby1  s  Louisiana,  JV\  Y.  Ed.  p.  58. 
Page  161,  line  19th  from  the  top,  for  "  G.  D.  C. ;  W.  P"  read,  G.  D .  C. ;  A.  T.G.; 
and  W.  P.  he. 

Page  169,  line  7th  from  the  bottom,  for  October  "  8th,  1814,"  read,  October  12thx 
1812  ;  and  bottom  line,  for  "  Real,"  read,  Kial. 

Page  212,  line  4th  from  top,  for  "  Mr.  Isaac  Kibbe,"  read,  Mr.  Kibbe.  Mr.  Isaac 
Kibbe  is  the  brother  of  the  gentleman  of  tha'  name,  who  Keeps  a  public  \nn2  m 
the  town  of  Buffalo 


A  TOUR 


FROM  NEW-YORK  TO  DETROIT. 
LETTER  I. 

Albany 9  May  3d,  ISIS, 

Beak  Sir, 

Amid  the  violence  of  wind  and  rain,  I  arrived  in  this 
city  at  b  o'clock  this  afternoon.    Though  spring  has  made 
some  advances  near  New-York,  here  (he  face  of  nature  ; 
marked  with  all  the  bleakness  of  winter,  ®%w* 
this  season,  no  scenery  can  exhib^  « 
that  of  the  Hudson  \  ~ 
leafless  r 


xiudson  river 
-^ivea  most  places  of  note  on 

jl  nad  then  occasion  to  make  a  remark  I  have  since  found 
just ;  that  the  arrangements  of  the  Steam-Boats,  deprive 
passengers  of  the  view  of  much  of  the  richest  scenery  of 
this  interesting  region.  The  passage  of  the  river,  through 
the  Fishkill  mountains,  is  indeed  one  of  the  finest  landscapes 

H 


viii 


TO  THE  READER; 


Page  27,  third  line  of  the  note,  for  "  this  latter  circumsianee,  was,  however,  m 
doubt  "  read,  this  latter  circumstance  was  no  doubt. 

Page  37,  9th  line  from  the  top,  for  "from  the  margin  dell,'"  read  from  the  mar- 
gin. 

Page  55,  fourth  line  from  the  top,  for  "  city  of  Utica"  read,  town  of  Utica. 

Page  59,  line  12th  from  the  top,  for  i:  colonial"  read,  colloquial. 

Page  61,  third  line  from  the  top,  for  "  producing  effects,"  read,  which  produced 
effects.      "  .       '  v. ■  -    ~  §.) 

Page  752,  line  11th  from  the  bottom,  for  "  side  land"  read,  land  side. 

Page  73,  lines  four  and  five  from  the  bottom,  for  "  ten  or  twelve  miles,"  read? 
two  or  three  miles. 

Page  91,  hue  15th  from  the  top,  for  "  muddings,"  read  muddiness. 

Page  118;  I  there  mention  an  intention  to  note  the  comparative  quantity  of 
water  in  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Mississippi  rivers,  but  have  omitted  that  of 
the  latter  ;  the  reader  will  please  substitute  for  ("  see  appendix,  No.  2,")  the 
following  words,  applied  to  the  Mississippi  : 

"  We  may  imagine  a  semi-ellipsis,  whose  longitudinal  diameter  re  presents  the 
river's  breadth,  and  whose  longest  ordinate,  its  depth  ;  allow  150  feet  as  the 
length  of  the  ordinate  line,  or  depth  of  water  at  the  greatest  elevation,  and  2,400 
feet  as  the  extent  of  the  elliptical  diameter  or  river's  breadth,  we  are  confident 
that  those  constituent  principles  will  give  a  very  correct  result.  From  the  ap- 
plication of  the  above  elements,  141,372  cubic  feet  would  be  contained  within 
one  foot  longitudinal  section  of  the  river.  At  the  rate  of  one  mile  an  hour, 
5,280  feet  in  length  would  be  discharged  every  hour,  or  746,444,160  cubic  feet;, 
of  the  entire  mass." 

[Darbifs  Louisiana,  JY.  Y.  Ed.  p.  58. 
Page  J 61,  line  19th  from  the  top,  for  "  G.  D.  C. ;  W.  P."  read,  G.D.C.;  A.  T.G.; 
and  \V.  P.  he. 

Page  169,  line  7th  from  the  bottom,  for  October  "  Zth,  1814,"  read,  October  12th* 
1812  ;  and  bottom  line,  for  "  Real,"  read,  Rial. 

Page  212,  line  4th  from  top,  for  "  Mr.  Isaac  Kibbe,"  read,  Mr.  Kibbe.   Mr.  Isaac 


m  Mow*  erfopwm  Mectei  afUr 
'printed. 


V 


A  TOUR 


FROM  NEW-YORK  TO  DETROIT. 

LETTER  I. 

Mb  any,  May  3d,  18  IS. 

Beau  Sir, 

Amid  the  violence  of  wind  and  rain,  I  arrived  in  this 
«ity  at  b  o'clock  this  afternoon.  Though  spring  has  made 
some  advances  near  New-York,  here  the  face  of  nature  is 
marked  with  all  the  bleakness  of  winter,  except  snow.  At 
this  season,  no  scenery  can  exhibit  a  more  dreary  aspect  than 
that  of  the  Hudson  ;  naked  rocks  or  precipices,  with  a  few 
leafless  forest  trees,  are  the  only  objects  that  in  many  places 
meet  the  eye  of  the  voyager  in  passing  many  miles  upon 
this  truly  singular  river.  While  the  cold  damp  wind 
sweeps  along  the  current,  If ic  view  of  the  distant  farm  houses 
have  a  solitary  and  even  gloomy  appearance. 

Perhaps  in  no  equal  distance  on 'earth,  is  the  contrast  be- 
tween the  smiles  of  summer  and  the  frowns  of  winter,  so 
strong  as  upon  the  Hudson  banks  between  New-York  and 
Albany.  I  travelled  upon  both  shores  of  the  Hudson  river 
in  the  summer  of  1816,  and  visited  most  places  of  note  on 
or  near  its  margin. 

I  had  then  occasion  to  make  a  remark  I  have  since  found 
just ;  that  the  arrangements  of  the  Steam-Boats,  deprive 
passengers  of  the  view  of  much  of  the  richest  scenery  of 
this  interesting  region.  The  passage  of  the  river,  through 
the  Fishkill  mountains,  is  indeed  one  of  the  finest  landscape* 

B 


10 


[let.  I* 


in  North  America,  and  yet  is  seen  but  by  very  few  of  those 
who  traverse  through  its  sublime  portals,  and  who  travel 
expressly  for  the  purpose  of  beholding  nature  in  her  most 
attractive  garb.  In  the  first  instance,  travelling  by  a  land 
conveyance  and  by  slow  stages,  I  had  the  advantage  of  be- 
holding the  various  parts  rather  more  in  detail,  than  I  could 
have,  had  I  passed  by  the  ordinary  means  of  the  Steam-Boat. 
As  you  have  imposed  upon  me  the  task  of  relating  what  I 
have  seen  or  thought,  and  as  you  have  had  the  kindness  to 
express  more  estimation  for  the  matter  than  the  manner,  I 
w  ill  give  a  detail  of  my  notes,  during  my  first  voyage  up  the 
Hudson. 

I  left  the  city  of  New-York,  on  the  afternoon  of  August 
20th,  1816  ;  the  weather  was  extremely  boisterous  for  the 
season  ;  a  strong  north  wind  impeded  the  progress  of  the 
Steam-Boat,  and  as  usual,  I  passed  the  Highlands  in  the 
night,  and  landed  about  midnight  at  Newburg. 

The  morning  of  the  21st,  repaid  amply  the  fatigue  of  the 
evening  before,  the  violence  of  the  wind  had  subsided,  the 
air  was  serene  and  cool ;  and  afforded  an  excellent  opportu- 
nity to  review  with  advantage  the  fine  landscapes  in  this 
neighborhood. 

The  scite  of  Newburg  is  admirably  adapted  to  produce* 
from  a  variety  of  points,  the  most  striking  effect  that  water, 
hill,  dale,  and  mountain  can  give.  Rising  by  rather  abrupt 
acclivity  from  the  water,  the  houses  in  the  town  appear  like 
the  steps  of  a  pair  of  stairs.  From  a  hill  to  the  westward 
of,  and  which  rises  above  the  village,  the  entire  adjacent 
country  is  spread  before  the  eye.  The  prospect  is  on  all 
sides  extremely  picturesque,  the  fields  and  farm  houses  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Hudson,  ase  seen  lessening  into  the  hor- 
izon far  into  Dutchess  county,  towards  (lie  borders  of  Con- 
necticut. The  Fishkill  mountains  rising  into  bold,  though 
not  rugged  prominences,  and  covered  with  trees  to  their 
summits.  But  the  passage  of  the  Hudson  river,  through 
the  Highlands,  is  far  the  most  pleasing  part  of  this  beauti* 


I.] 


li 


ful  picture.  Tlie  smooth  surface  of  the  river  silently  ap- 
proaching this  confined  opening,  the  projecting  rocks  appa- 
rently menacing  (he  flitting  vessels  beneath,  the  diversified 
groups  of  trees,  the  distant  view  of  the  hills  of  Putnam 
county,  and  the  soft  white  clouds  exhibiting  their  airy  forms 
along  (he  clear  blue  heaven,  forms  a  landscape  that  is  equal- 
led by  few  on  earth* 

It  is  obvious  that  the  Hudson  did  not  always  find  its  course 
to  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  through  the  Fishkill  mountains.  The 
whole  face  of  the  country,  north  of  that  pass,  evinces  an  ex- 
posure to  submersion  by  water.  By  either  abrasion  of  a 
cataract,  or  disruption  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  but 
much  more  probably  the  former,  the  mountain  chain  has 
been  broken,  and  the  rushing  waters  found  their  way  to  the 
now  New- York  Bay.^ 

During  the  afternoon  of  Aug.  fist,  I  crossed  the  riverfront 
jNcwburg  to  Fishkill  landing,  enjoyed  in  the  traverse,  the 
ehanging  view  of  the  narrows,  and  after  landing,  turned  and 

#  In  Dr.  S.  L.  MitchePs  excellent  observations  upon  the  Geologv 
of  North  America,  which  are  attached  to  Kirk  and  Mercein's 
edition  of  Cuvier's  Theory  of  the  Earth,  occur  the  following 
•observations  upon  the  Fishkill  mountains. 

"  They  are  composed  chiefly  of  granite  and  kneiss,  abounding 
in  loose  nodules  and  solid  veins  of  magnetical  iron  ore.  The 
width  of  the  chain  may  be  rated  at  about  sixteen  miles.  The 
height  of  the  most  elevated  peaks,  have  been  ascertained  baro- 
metrically by  Capt.  Alden  Partridge,  of  the  corps  of  Artillerists 
and  Egineers.  According  to  his  observations,  Butterhill  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  1529  feet  above  tide-water,  and  the  new 
Beacon  1565  feet. 

"  This  thick  and  solid  barrier  seems  in  ancient  days,  to  have 
impeded  the  course  of  the  water,  and  to  have  raised  a  lake  high 
enough  to  cover  all  the  country  to  Quaker  hill  and  the  Taconick 
mountains  on  the  east,  aud  to  the  Shawangunk  and  the  Catskill 
mouutains  on  the  west.  This  lake  may  be  calculated  to  have  ex- 
tended to  the  Little  Falls  of  the  Mohawk,  and  to  Hadley's  Falls 
on  the  Hudson." — Kirk  Sf  Merceiri's  Cuvier,  page  337. 

A  careful  review  of  the  structure  of  the  adjoining  country, 
leaves  no  reasonable  doubt  of  the  correctness  f»f  the  foregoing, 
conclusions  dra  wn  by  this  able  geologist. 


12 


HUDSON"  1UVEK. 


[let.  I. 


beheld  the  two  villages  of  Ncwburg  and  New-Windsor  hang- 
ing upon  (he  western  slope  of  the  opposite  shore.  I  had 
here  again  another  opportunity  of  admiring  the  ever  varying 
scenery  of  this  truly  deiighful  neighborhood.  Often  as  I 
have  beheld  with  a  sensation  of  real  pleasure,  the  setting  of 
an  unclouded  sun,  never  before  (or  since)  (  did  I  see  that  lu- 
minary take  his  nightly  leave  of  man,  with  more  serene  ma- 
jesty, or  amid  so  many  objects  to  heighten  the  beauty  of  the 
scene.  Seated  upon  an  elevated  bank,  in  a  grove  composed 
of  spruce  and  cedar,  I  watched  the  departure  of  the  king  of 
day  j  the  slow  and  silent  advance  of  darkness,  at  length 
shrouded  in  gloom  a  picture,  whose  (chits  can  only  be  for- 
gotten when  my  bosom  ceases  to  beat. 

Environed  by  the  massy  and  sublime  monuments  reared 
by  the  hand  of  nature,  and  enjoying  the  softened  beauty  of 
such  an  evening,  I  could  not  repress  a  retrospection  upon  the 
march  of  time  ;  I  could  not  avoid  reflecting  that  an  epoch 
did  exist,  when  the  delightful  valley  in  which  I  then  sat  was 
an  expanse  of  water  ;  that  the  winding  and  contracting 
gorge,  through  which  the  Hudson  now  flows,  did  not  exist, 
or  was  the  scene  of  another  Niagara  ;  I  beheld  the  lake 
disappear,  the  roar  of  the  cataract  had  ceased,  the  enor- 
mous rocky  barriers  had  yielded  to  the  impetuous  flood. 
The  river  now  glides  smooth  and  tranquil,  in  its  passage 
through  this  glen,  dark  and  deep.  The  war  of  elements 
have  subsided.  The  mountains  have  apparently  separated, 
and  given  the  waters  free  egress  to  the  ocean. 

In  order  to  have  ample  means  of  reviewing  this  region,  to 
as  much  advantage  as  possible,  I  hired  a  man  to  convey  me 
in  a  sail  boat,  from  Fishkill  landing  to  West-Point ;  and  on 
the  morning  of  the  22d,  passed  the  Narrows  with  a  light 
wind.  A  slight  mist  floated  over  the  highest  peaks  of  the 
mountains,  but  below  the  air  was  clear  and  pleasant.  Ap- 
proaching the  most  confined  part  of  the  passage,  the  vast 
granitic  ledges  seemed  to  raise  their  frowning  projections  to 
ike  clouds,  the  trees  upon  their  summits  appear  like  shrubs,. 


.LET.   l.j  WEST-POINT.  13 

Iti  the  intervening  vales  or  rather  ravines,  (lie  fisherman  and 
woodcutter  have  reared  (heir  huts  ;  the  curling  smoke  is 
seen  issuing  from  cabins  e  in  bosomed  amid  these  \riigged 
rocks. 

West-Point  presented  its  structures  perched  upon  a  small 
cape  of  level  hind,  but  every  Where  surrounded  hy  masses 
that  seemed  to  mock  lime  itself. 

I  landed,  and  rose  the  winding  path  that  led  to  (his  ever 
memorable  spot      a  place  that  was  the  seeae  of  some  of 

*  Whilst  preparing  these  sheets  for  publication,  the  following 
elegant  lines  appeared  in  the  Columbian,  from  the  pen  of  Dr. 
Van  Gelder,  of  New- York.  I  could  not  deny  my  readers  tin- 
pleasure  of  leading  so  fine  a  description  of  the  grandeur,  even 
in  ruinSj  of  Fort  Putnam. 

ON  THE  RUINS  OF  FORT  PUTNAM^  WEST-POINT. 

Dreary  and  lone  as  the  scenes  that  surround  thee, 
Thy  battlements  rise  'mid  the  crags  of  the  wild, 

Yet  dear  are  thy  ruins,  for  brightly  around  thee 
?Twas  here  the  lirst  dawn  of  our  Liberty  smil'd. 

But  lonely's  thy  terrace — thy  wails  are  forsaken, 
In  ruins  around  thy  proud  ramparts  are  low, 

And  never  again  shall  thy  cannon  awaken 
The  echo  that  sleeps  in  the  vallies  below. 

Silence  now  reigns  thy  dark  ruins  among, 

Where  once  thrill'd  the  fife  and  the  war-drum  beatloud; 

Now  the  scream  of  the  eaglet  slow  gliding  along, 
Alone  sends  its  note  from  the  mists  of  the  cloud. 

But  where  are  the  heroes  whose  home  once  was  here, 
When  the  legions  of  Tyranny  peopled  our  shore — 

Who  here  rais'd  the  standard  to  Freedom  so  dear, 
And  guarded  their  home  'mid  the  battle's  fierce  roar  I 

They  sleep  in  yon  vale — their  rude  fortress  below, 
Where  darkly  the  shade  of  the  cedar  is  spread, 

And  hotirse  through  the  valley  the  mountain-winds  blow, 
Where  lowly  they  rest  in  the  sleep  of  the  dead. 

The  flowers  of  the  forest  have  brighten'd  that  spot, 
The  wild  rose  has  scatter'd  its  bloom  o'er  that  ground 

Where  lonely  they  lie — now  forgetting — forgot — 

Unawak'd  by  the  mountain-storm  thundering  around, 

B2 


WEST-FOIST, 


[let.  r< 


ihe  most  remarkable  events  of  our  unequalled  revolution* 
It  was  here  that  Arnold's  treachery  was  met  by  the  stern 
virtue  of  Washington  ;  it  was  near  this  place  that  Andre  ex- 
piated his  folly  with  his  life,  and  gained  an  immortal  name 
by  an  ignominious  death. 

West-Point  presents  but  little  that  can  interest  the  travel™ 
ler,  except  it  be  the  noble  scenery,  of  its  neighborhood,  and 
events  of  historical  reminiscence.  The  barracks  of  the  offi- 
cers and  cadets,  with  a  few  scattering  houses  belonging  to 
individuals,  are  all  the  artificial  improvements  worth  notice 
at  this  establishment.  The  bank  is  high,  and  very  abrupt 
from  the  surface  of  the  water  in  the  river,  to  the  level  of  the 
plain  upon  which  the  barracks  and  houses  are  built. 

With  considerable  fatigue,  I  scrambled  up  the  mountain 
to  the  ruins  of  Fort  Putnam.  Silence  and  dilapidation  now 
reign  over  this  once  important  Fortress.  It  would  be  diffi- 
cult to  conceive  of  a  more  impregnable  position.  Seated 
upon  an  elevated  mass  of  granite,  the  Fort  occupied  almost 
the  entire  surface  upon  which  a  human  foot  could  be  set, 
A  very  steep  ascent,  of  more  than  500  perpendicular  feet, 
leads  from  the  plain  of  West-Point  to  the  scite  of  the  Fort, 
and  a  deep  rock  bound  valley,  separates  it  from  the  general 
mass  of  the  adjacent  mountains.  A  cistern  had  been  hewed 
out  of  the  solid  granite,  which  was  full  of  water  when  I 
visted  the  spot.  Cannon  placed  upon  the  walls  of  this  Fort, 
could  rake  the  entire  surface  of  West-Point ;  but  I  could 
not  perceive  any  serious  opposition  it  could  have  presented 
to  the  passage  of  ships  of  war,  ascending  or  descending  the 
Hudson  river. 

The  landscape  from  the  ruined  battlements  of  Fort  Put- 
nam, is  very  interesting.  The  Fishkill  mountains  seen 
from  this  place,  have  a  much  more  naked  and  rude  aspect, 
than  from  either  New  burg  or  Fishkill  landing.  Except 
upon  the  opposite  shore  in  Putnam  county,  but  very  little  hu- 
man culture  enlivens  the  view.    West-Point  has  itself  a  sol- 


X«ET.  I.J 


FORT-PUTNAM. 


Hary  appearance,  and  to  (he  west,  nought  is  seen  but  woods, 
and  mountains,  in  their  primitive  wildness. 

If  seclusion  from  the  busy  haunts  of  men,  can  he  of  any 
benefit  to  the  students  at  West- Point,  they  enjoy  this  advan- 
tage in  its  fullest  extent.  Isolated  upon  the  confined  cape, 
from  which  the  name  of  the  place  is  derived,  the  river  ou 
one  side  and  towering  mountains  on  the  other,  an  unbroken 
silence  reigns  around  this  seminary.  Looking  down  from 
the  broken  walls  of  Fort  Putnam,  Dr.  Johnson's  Rasselas, 
came  strong  to  recollection.  I  could  not  avoid  recalling  to 
imaginary  life,  the  men  who  once  acted  on  this  little  but  re- 
markable theatre.  I  felt  a  sentiment  of  awe,  amid  this  now 
lonely  waste,  on  recalling  to  mind  that  here  once  depended 
the  fate  of  a  new  born  nation.  Even  the  fallen  fragments 
of  stone  which  once  composed  part  of  its  buttresses,  inspi- 
red me  with  a  feeling  of  respect.  Washington,  Greene, 
Putnam,  Andre,  and  Arnold,  are  no  more  ;  their  names 
have  now  taken  their  respective  stations  in  history.  The 
opinion  of  mankind  is  formed  upon  the  merits  of  the  three 
former,  and  the  shame  of  the  two  latter.  It  is  now  as  far 
beyond  the  reach  of  calumny,  to  tarnish  fh$  unfading  re- 
nown of  a  Washington,  a  Greene,  or  a  Putnam,  as  it  would 
be  for  the  human  hand  to  level  to  common  earth  the  enor- 
mous masses  of  the  Fishkill  mountains. 

With  slow  steps  I  descended  from  the  grey  remains  of  this 
venerable  pile,  and  cast  a  frequent  and  repeated  retiring  look 
towards  its  mouldering  turrets.  The  shades  of  evening  were 
setting  in,  the  darkened  sides  of  the  distant  mountains,  seem- 
ed to  mark  a  sympathetic  gloom  with  that  which  hung  over 
the  deserted  Fortress.  The  busy  hum  of  the  students  it* 
their  evening  walks,  produced  an  interesting  contrast  with 
the  repose  in  which  rested  the  surrounding  scenery.  Such 
was  the  events,  and  the  reflection  of  my  day's  visit  to  West- 
Point. 


±6 


[let.  f. 


On  (lie  morning  of  the  23d,  I  again  passed  with  enereased 
admiration  the  Highlands,  and  refurned  to  Fishkill  landing. 
Jn  the  afternoon  I  went  to  visit  the  iinc  Factory  of  Mate- 
owan.#  owned  by  Messrs.  Sehcnek'S. 

The  scenery  near  Maieowan  is  wild,  picturesque,  and 
pleasing.  Here  I  first  witnessed  the  effect,  produced  upois 
the  smaller  streams  which  flow  into  the  Hudson  river,  from 
ihe  high  table  land  from  which  their  sources  are  derived, 
Flowing  over  a  surface,  elevated  many  hundred  feet  above 
tide  water  in  the  Hudson,  the  tributary  waters  of  that  river 
all  enter  by  cataracts  of  more  or  less  elevation.  Fishkill, 
(Mateowan)  commences  its  fall  some  distance  above  Messrs, 
ScheneVs  factory,  giving  any  desirable  facility  to  the  appli- 
cation of  its  volume,  in  the  propulsion  of  machinery.  This 
characteristic  is  however,  general  to  almost  all  streams  that 
fall  into  the  Hudson  from  either  bank,  and  gives  to  the  in- 
habitants near  the  borders  of  that  river,  a  facility  in  the  con- 
struction of  labour-saving  machinery,  possessed  cn  so  large 
a  scale  in  few,  if  any  other  parts  of  the  earth. 

If  it  was  possible  for  American  industry  to  contend,  in  the 
present  order  of  things,  successfully  against  European  mo- 
no-jolv,  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  could  become  two  extend- 
efl  lines  of  manufacturing  establishments  ;  but  our  native 
exertions  wither  in  the  presence  of  foreign  commerce  and 
perverted  taste.  Nature  is  slowly  asserting  her  rights  m 
opposition  to  absurdly  continued  custom.  If  habit  had  made 
us  familiar  with  sending  our  wheat,  to  be  converted  into 
ilour  in  English  mills,  we  would  now  consider  bread  made 
from  this  native  grain  and  foreign  machinery,  in  the  same 
favourable  degree  of  preference,  we  now  give  to  muslins 
made  in  Europe,  from  Carolina  and  Georgia  cotton. 

9  Mateowan  is  the  Indian  name  of  Fishkill.  No  nations,  per- 
haps that  ever  existed,  gave  more  sonorous  names  to  places,  than 
the  native  savages  of  North  America.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted 
that  their  nomenclature  had  not  been  more  generally  preserved* 


LET.  I.j  TIMBER  17 

Above  Fishkil!  the  country  assumes  a  hilly  and  rocky, 
but  not  mountainous  aspect.    The  strata  are  inclined  m 
nearly  parallel  direction  to  the  Catskii!  mountains.  Some 
limestone  occurs.    The  general  strtietu^c  of  the  hills  is, 
however,  rnica  slate.    The  soil  does  not  exhibit  a  fertile  ap 
pearanee  in  genera!,  though  Dutchess  county  has  been  fam- 
ed  tor  its  productive  crops.    This  character  I  believe  just 
as  respects  orchards  and  meadows.    Too  inueh  of  the  land 
Is  cleared.    A-  scarcity  of  timber  strikes  the  eye  of  f  \u 
traveller  at  every  step,  and  the  trees  which  exist  I;, 
stinted  appearance.5^ 

•  The  following  extract  demonstrates  that  improvident  waste 
of  timber,  and  neglect  to  supply  daily  cpasuroption,  js  not  eon- 
lined  to  Dutchess  county.  Error,  however,  gains  nothing  but 
notoriety  from  its  extent. 

64  The  Duke  of  Athol  is  now  enjoying  the  benefit  which  pro- 
vident ancestors  sometimes  confer  upon  their  heirs.  His  Grace's 
estates  have  been  hitherto  considered  as  rather  extensive,  than 
productive  ;  but  his  forests  have  now  attained  to  such  a  growth, 
that,  we  understand,  he  will  be  able  to  cut  timber  to  the  amount 
of  20,0001.  a  year,  we  may  say  almost  in  perpetuity,  as  he  lias 
continued  the  practice  of  his  noble  father,  and  planted  millions 
of  trees  annually." 

In  reading  the  above  article,  we  could  not  suppress  a  feel- 
ing of  rep  ret  at  the  evident  contrast  presented  in*  the  cond  uct 
of  the  Duke  of  AthoPs  44  provident  ancestor,"  to  the  improvi- 
dence of  landholders  generally  in  this  country.  The  decrease 
of  timber  for  building,  fuel,  &c.  is  already  a  great  inconvenience, 
and  is  every  day  becoming  more  serious  in  the  prospects  growing 
out  of  it.  The  evil  is  not  so  much  in  the  use  or  consumption  of 
the  timber,  (although  that  may  be  unnecessarily  extravagant)  but 
in  the  utter  neglect  which  appears  every  where  to  prevail,  of  re- 
pairing the  devastation,  by  planting  new  trees,  and  taking  care 
of  the  young  growth.  Observation  has  convinced  us,  that  in  no 
part  of  the  country  is  its  neglect  more  apparent,  than  in  the  low- 
er parts  of  Delaware,  and  the  adjacent  parts  of  Maryland.  We 
mention  this  district  of  country  particularly,  because  in  travelling 
over  it,  (we  allude  especially  to  the  country  called  the  Levels, 
and  on  the  Bohemia,  and  Sassafras  rivers,)  we  were  struck  with 
its  fine  appearance,  in  soil,  its  fine  streams,  and  its  easy  access  U* 
market.  Jt  is  probable  to  this  last  circumstance  that  the  evil 
complained  of  may  in  some  part,  be  attributed  \  the  high  price 


AGIUCtLTURE. 


Ii\  all  the  extent  of  settled  country  within  the  United 
States,  two  epochs  have  preceded  each  other  in  the  progress 
of  agriculture.  In  the  first  epoch,  immense  extent  of  land 
is  cleared  of  the  timber,  and  the  soil  rather  tortured  than 
cultivated.  This  lasts  until  the  impoverished  fields  and  ruin- 
ed forests,  oblige  the  farmers  to  commence  the  second  epoch. 
They  now  come  to  the  point  from  which  they  ought  to  have 
set  out.  They  now  cultivate  a  more  limited  extent,  but  tha£ 
extent  by  manure  and  a  careful  routine  of  crops,  becomes 

of  timber  at  Baltimore  having  induced  the  proprietors  or  tenants 
to  apply  the  axe  with  so  devastating  a  hand,  that  the  country  is 
almost  bare  of  timber,  and  no  efforts  seem  to  have  been  adopted 
to  supply  the  waste.  The  consequence  of  this  destructive  habit  is, 
that  the  best  land  in  the  peninsula,  and  as  good  as  any  in  the  coun- 
try, with  all  its  advantages  from  fine  navigable  streams  will  not 
sell  for  mare  than  15,  20,  or  25  dollars  per  acre,  in  addition  to 
the  inconvenience  arising  from  a  deficiency  of  fuel,  and  timber 
for  building.  It  may  be  said,  that  the  tenures  by  which  real  pro- 
perty is  held  in  this  country,  and  its  frequent  circulation  from 
fraud  to  hand,  present  an  obstacle  to  any  plans  of  permanent  im- 
provement, that  farmers  do  not  like  to  expend  money,  the  pro- 
fits of  which  are  to  be  enjoyed  by  posterity. 

We  would  regret  to  see  such  an  objection  seriously  urged,  in- 
volving as  it  does  a  censure  upon  the  freedom  of  our  institutions, 
which  are  intimately  connected  with  the  proper  circulation  and 
equalization  of  real  property.  We  suggest  the  subject  to  the 
agricultural  society  of  this  county,  as  a  proper  one  for  their  con- 
sideration, if  they  will  encourage  the  planting  of  forest  trees,  and 
support  it  with  their  examples,  it  will  have  a  good  effect.  The 
price  of  land  will  be  undoubtedly  increased,  and  the  interests  of 
agriculture  advanced.  # 

There  is  one  fact  of  which  the  society  must  be  aware  ;  that 
in  this  country  and  the  peninsula  generally,  it  is  the  custom  with 
farmers  to  sow  or  cultivate  a  much  greater  quantity  of  land  than 
they  can  properly  manage  ;  a  consequence  of  which  is  that  a 
great  deal  of  good  land  is  thrown  away  ;  producing  about  one 
third  or  one  fourth  of  what  it  would  if  properly  manured  and  at- 
tended to.  If,  therefore,  many  of  our  farmers  would  limit'their 
industry  to  the  cultivation  of  one  half  or  one  third  of  their  usual 
quantity  of  laud,  they  would  economize  their  labour  greatly,  cul- 
tivate their  lands  much  better,  produce  a  greater  quantity  of  grain 
and  grass,  and  the  surplus  would  remain  for  the  propagation  of 
ti  m  b  e  r . ' ? — Bela  wet  re  TFatchma  n . 


£,ET.  I.J  DUTCnESS  C0LNTY*  19 

annually  more  and  more  productive.  It  would  no  doubt 
have  resulted,  from  the  great  labour  and  expense  of  clear- 
ing land,  that  farmers  would  have  commenced  by  making 
the  best  use  of  small  enclosures,  if  agriculture  had  been  un- 
derstood scientifically.  That  was  not  formerly  the  case  any 
where  in  the  United  States,  and  now  only  in  few  places.  It 
is  pleasing  to  see  even  the  germ  of  a  better  system.  Agri- 
culture is  improving  ;  our  citizens  begin  to  learn  that  their 
fields  may  be  made  more  profitable,  and  less  expensive. 

Dutchess  county  is  about  15  miles  long  north  and  south, 
and  twenty-five  miles  in  breadth  east  and  west,  from  Con- 
necticut line  to  the  Hudson  river.  This  county  at  present,  ex™ 
tends  over  an  area  of  very  nearly  800  square  miles.  Dutch- 
ess was  formerly  more  extensive,  the  townships  south  of  the 
Fishkill  mountains,  Philipstown,  Kent,  Paterson,  Southeast, 
and  Carmel,  were  in  the  Legislative  session  of  1812  erected 
into  a  separate  county,  and  named  Putnam.  By  the  census 
of  1810,  the  entire  county  ot  Dutchess,  possessed  a  popula- 
tion of  51,412,  but  of  this  amount  the  now  county  of  Put- 
nam contained  8,182  persons  ;  leaving  in  Dutchess  a  nvtt 
amount  of  42,930.  This  divided  by  800,  yields  53, 6  +  to  the 
square  mile,  a  very  thin  population  ;  yet  the  county  is  per- 
haps more  than  two  thirds  cleared  of  wood  ;  and  if  so,  al- 
lowing the  population  to  be  now  60  to  the  square  mile,  Mould 
average  more  than  seven  acres  of  open  land  to  each  individ- 
ual. I  am  well  convinced  this  calculation  is  by  no  means 
overrated  near  the  Hudson,  or  indeed  in  any  part  of  the 
county.  The  great  distances  between  the  houses,  and  the 
wide  sweep  of  the  fields  and  meadows,  give  the  country  a 
lonely  appearance. 

Eight  miles  above  Fishkill,  Wappinger's  creek  falls  into 
the  Hudson.  The  latter  is  a  much  more  considerable 
stream  than  the  former,  but  are  similar  in  tumbling  over  el- 
evated ledges  of  rock,  previous  to  joining  the  Hudson.— ~ 
Where  the  road  passes  Wappinger's  creek,  some  mills  and 
other  machinery  have  been  erected.    The  road  crosses 'the 


20  WAPI'INUEK's  CUEEXv.  [let.  j„ 

creek  by  a  substantial  wooden  br  idge,  over  nearly  the  mid- 
dle of  the  fall.  The  volume  of  water  was  considerable,  even 
when  I  passed  it,  though  a  long  dearth  had  preceded  my 
journey.  The  white  surge  dashing  impetuously  over  the 
shelving  rocks,  and  amongst  the  wheels  of  the  different  wa- 
ter works,  produced  a  fine  effect.  This  place  affords  a  picas 
ing  variety  on  this  road. 

Above  Wappinger's  creek,  the  face  Of  the  country  be- 
comes more  uniform,  and  the  soil  assumes  ulcss  rude  aspect 
than  between  the  creek  and  the  now  receding  Highlands. 

Many  points  of  rising  ground,  present  very  extensive  and 
beautiful  landscape  views.  The  Highland,  Shawangunk,  and 
Catskiil  mountains,  are  alternately  and  often  all  visible  from 
the  same  place.  The  Hudson  can  sometimes  be  seen  glitter- 
ing low  In  the  deep  vale,  through  which  it  flows.  Here  in 
many  places,  appear  the  vestiges  of  the  ancient  lake,  which 
filled  the  region  above  the  Highlands.  Independent  of  ihe 
mountains,  the  hills  which  once  bounded  this  sheet  of  water, 
are  distinctly  discernible  to  the  east  and  west.  These  hills 
are  about  30  miles  separate,  the  intermediate  space  was  the 
breadth  of  the  lake,  giving  it,  though  on  a  larger  scale,  the 
general  characteristic  of  the  yet  existing  lakes  Champlaia 
and  George. 

Viewing  a  map  of  Orange,  Ulster  and  Dutchess  counties, 
a  singular  fact  in  the  geology  of  the  region  they  occupy,  ob- 
trudes itself  to  observation.  The  w  ater  courses  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Hudson,  in  Orange  and  Ulster,  flow  considerably 
north  of  east,  and  enter  that  river  very  obliquely.  This  is 
the  ease  with  the  streams  of  Wallkill,  Rondout,  and  Esopus. 
In  Dutchess,  Fi&hki!!,  Wappinger's,  and  other  creeks,  run 
south  of  east,  in  very  nearly  parallel  courses,  but  contrary 
directions  to  those  which  enter  by  the  opposite  bank. 

The  elevated  table  land  from  which  all  these  streams  de- 
rive their  sources,  lies  apparently  nearly  on  a  general  level, 
and  forms  a  valley,  which  crosses  the  Hudson  in  the  direc 
lion  of  the  water  courses.    Are  we  not  justifiable  in  conch?- 


ZET.  I.J 


POUGHKEEPSIE. 


21 


ding  that  (his  was  once  the  course  of  the  lake  discharge  ? 
By  what  process  of  nature  did  (lie  Hudson  scoop  its  present 
channel,  so  far  beneath  the  bottom  of  this  former  inland 
sea,  so  far  even  beneath  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  through 
a  continuous  mass  of  rock  ?  If  you  can  answer  this  query, 
if  you  can  explain  this  phenomenon,  you  will  do  me  and  the 
worlds  favor.  I  am  unable  to  even  conjecture  the  process 
of  (his  mighty,  this  unequalled  work, 

Poughkeepsie,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Dutchess  county, 
stands  upon  the  table  land  of  the  Hudson,  sixteen  miles  from 
Fishkill.  1  arrived  here  in  the  afternoon  of  the  25th  Aug. 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  26th,  took  an  extensive  ramble 
over  its  streets  and  environs.  The  town  is  in  the  form  of  a 
cross,  the  two  principal  streets  crossing  each  other  nearly 
at  right  angles.  The  houses  are  scattered,  and  the  inter- 
vening spaces  planted  with  trees.  A  road  leads  down  a  long, 
steep,  and  in  many  places  very  abrupt  hill,  f  pom  Poughkeep- 
sie to  the?  landing,  on  the  Hudson  river.  This  circumstance 
subjects  the  inhabitants  to  great  inconvenience.  The  oppo- 
site shore  is  broken,  rocky,  barren  and  desolate.  The  town 
contains  at  present  about  2000  inhabitants.  The  houses  have 
a  decent  plainness  in  their  exterior,  a  character  they  have  no 
doubt  received  from  the  moral  taste  of  the  inhabitants.  I 
have  visited  few  places,  where  a  more  mild,  conciliating  de- 
portment was  observed  to  the  stranger. 

Some  manufactures  are  established  in  Poughkeepsie ;  the 
principal  of  which,  is  that  of  Messrs.  Booth's  woollen  cloth 
manufactory.  Some  very  beautiful  and  very  excellent  cloth 
has  been  made  at  this  establishment.  It  is  now  contending 
like  all  similar  works  in  the  United  States,  with  high  wages, 
enhanced  price  of  raw  material,  European  competition,  and 
long  established  public  prejudice  in  favor  of  foreign  produc- 
tions. 

Except  the  inconsistency  of  their  opinions  and  conduct, 
nothing  can  be  more  idle,  than  the  expressions  you  may  now 
hear  in  every  conversation  in  our  country,  upon  domestic 


jPOVGUKEEPSIE. 


manufactured  goods  of  any  kind.    "  Encourage  theframcrs 
«  of  our  own  products.    I  prefer  to  see  my  neighbors  dres- 
«  scd  in  home  made  cloth.    The  day  we  trust  is  not  far  dis 
"  tant  when  we  can  put  European  nations  at  defiance.  Our 

necessities  will  be  supplied  at  home."  A  thousand  such 
declamations  may  be  heard  in  every  assembly  of  people,  and 
in  many  instances,  not  one  yard  of  home  made  clothing 
coidd  be  found  upon  the  whole  company. 

This  is  not,  however,  the  only  instance,  where  theory  and 
practice  are  at  variance  in  the  affairs  of  mankind. 

Stepping  into  a  Bookstore  in  Poughkeepsie,  I  was  led  to 
make  a  reflection  I  have  often  made  before.  Bookstores 
afford,  particularly  in  small  villages  and  country  places,  the 
best  data,  from  which  can  be  calculated  the  state  of  public 
literary  improvement.  Booksellers,  like  other  merchants* 
are  regulated  in  their  importations  by  the  taste  of  their  cus- 
tomers. 

In  large  cities,  where  schools,  colleges,  and  other  estab- 
lishments for  the  promotion  of  general  instruction,  exist  on 
a  large  scale,  almost  all  kinds  of  books  are  found  in  Book- 
stores ;  but  in  remote  country  villages  few  books  are  offer- 
ed for  sale,  except  those  of  daily  demand. 

After  school  books,  the  most  common  are  religious  tracts 
of  different  kinds,  published  for  the  use  of  the  various  sects 
which  inhabit  the  country  ;  these,  with  a  few  of  the  most 
popular  novels,  form  the  mass  of  the  volumes  upon  the 
shelves  of  the  village  bookseller. 

Works  on  general  science  arc  rare,  and  even  treatises  upon 
political  economy,  '(except  pamphlets  upon  daily  occurren- 
ces, mostly  personal)  arc  not  often  seen  beyond  the  limits  of 
our  large  commercial  cities. 

In  tSie  United  Slates,  the  most  useful  of  all  human  read- 
ing, history,  is  neglected.  The  most  prominent  events  of 
their  own  country,  are  known  to  but  comparatively  few  of 
our  citizens.  British  history  has  shared  the  most  attention 
from  our  readers,  but  even  that  heterogeneous  and  conflicting 


JfiET.  I.] 


RHINE  BECK. 


±3 


subject,  they  generally  but  superficially  understand.  Though 
it  may  bo  doubted  whether  the  reading  of  history,  tends  to 
produce  all  the  beneficial  results,  usually  expected  to  flow 
from  that  species  of  literature  ;  yet  it  is  in  history  alone, 
that  the  treasured  experience  of  our  race  is  recorded.    It  is 
true  that  lessons  of  experience,  when  not  taught  by  physi- 
cal suffering,  are  seldom  very  profoundly  remembered,  or 
correctly  acted  upon.    It  is  also  (rue,  that  though  the  im- 
pressions made  upon  our  minds  by  the  virtue  or  crimes,  the 
wisdom  or  folly  of  others,  are  slight  and  transient,  in  a  ratio 
of  distance  from  the  scenes  of  our  own  personal  cares  ;  yet 
salutary  impressions  are  made,  and  liberal  opinions  contract- 
ed, from  reading  the  events  of  nations  that  exist  no  more,  as 
well  as  from  those  which  concern  the  most  remote  people 
upon  our  planet. 

August  27th,  I  left  Poughkeepsie  early  in  the  morning  ; 
a  shower  in  the  preceding  night  had  given  freshness  to  the 
air.  Proceeding  along  the  road  towards  Rhinebeek,  I  found 
the  country  extremely  pleasant.  A  turnpike  road  has  been 
made  from  Poughkeepsie  11  miles  ;  the  surface  of  the 
ground  uneven  rather  than  hilly.  A  few  miles  from  Pough- 
keepsie the  table  land  becomes  more  fiat,  and  in  some  places 
so  much  so,  as  to  resemble  the  bottom  of  a  large  river. 
Rhinebeek  stands  upon  one  of  those  elevated  plains,  is  built 
in  the  Dutch  taste  ;  all  the  houses  have  a  comfortable,  and 
a  few  an  elegant  exterior  ;  they  are  interspersed  with  orch- 
ards, meadows,  grain  fields  and  gardens.  To  me,  no  object 
is  more  satisfactory  than  these  scattered  villages,  w  here  ev- 
ery species  of  cultivation  seem  blended.  In  large  cities,  the 
great  field  and  rich  mead  are  banished,  to  make  w  ay  for  the 
various  objects  of  luxury  and  commerce  ;  but  in  these  rural 
villages,  enough  remains  of  rude  nature  toreeal  the  mind  to 
the  ages  of  primitive  simplicity,  whilst  enough  is  created  by 
art  to  gratify  the  wants  of  civilized  man. 

In  ascending  towards  the  north  from  the  Highlands,  along 
the  elevated  plains  of  the  Hudson,  as  the  Fishkill  mountains 


KINGSTON. 


[let.  li' 


are  depressed  by  recession,  those  of  Calskill  rise  from  ap- 
proach. The  latter  chaia  presents  a  hold  and  imposing 
front  from  Rhineheek.  Rising  in  majesty  their  blue  tops, 
and  gradually  sloping  sides,  are  peculiarly  pleasing  to  the 
eye,  whilst  their  pyriaiidaj  form  evince  a  duration,  commen- 
surate with  time  itself.  The  village  of  Rhineheek  stands 
near  two  miles  from  the  margin  of  the  Hudson,  with,  as  usu- 
al, a  high  rocky  intervening  hank.  From  Rhineheek  vil- 
lage the  ground  falls  rapidly.  When  the  river  is  approach- 
ed, a  wild  and  picturesque  landscape  opens  ;  the  west  hank 
of  the  Hudson  is  rugged  and  extremely  broken  ;  the  Cats- 
kill  mountains  rise  upon  the  background,  and  terminate  with 
their  rounded  cones  the  distant  view.  The  road  from 
Rhineheek  ferry,  winds  up  the  western  steeps  of  the  Hud- 
son, amid  broken  fragments  of  rock.  The  eminences  are 
clothed  with  pine,  cedar  and  oak  ;  evey  object  announces 
sterility.  Nothing  is  seen,  that  can  give  the  slightest  anti- 
cipation of  the  fertile  and  beautiful  valley  of  Esopus,  into 
which*  a  ride  of  three  miles  from  the  Hudson  river  carries 
the  traveller. 

I  do  not  remember  to  have  ever  enjoyed  a  more  agreeable 
surprize,  or  to  have  seen  a  transition  more  rapid,  than  in 
passing  from  the  sterile  and  shapeless  summits  of  the  Hud- 
son bilk,  to  the  fine  and  extended  plain,  upon  which  stands 
the  romantic  village  of  Esopus  or  Kingston.  This  little,  but 
interesting  town,  recals  to  mind  some  memorable  events  of 
the  revolutionary  war.  Its  inhabitants  were  amongst  the 
first  and  most  zealous  opposers  of  British  aggression,  in  the 
then  colony  of  New- York,  and  of  course  marked  for  ven- 
geance by  the  officers  of  the  crown,  who  commanded  on 
the  New-York  station.  In  the  summer  of  1777,  while  Gen. 
Burgoync  was  penetrating  from  the  north  towards  Albany, 
a  British  squadron  ascended  the  Hudson  river  from  New- 
Yrork,  and  landed  a  body  of  troops  near  the  month  of  the 
Wallkill,  who  marched  to,  and  burnt  the  defenceless  village 
oF  Kingston. 


JLET.  I.j 


Kingston*. 


The  inhabitants  had  but  a  few  moments*  information  of 
the  approach  of  their  enemy,  before  their  actual  arrival. 
A  tumultuous  flight  ensued,  and  before  quitting  the  view  of 
their  dwellings,  the  smoke  of  the  fire  that  devoured  them 
ascended  to  heaven.  The  consequence  of  this  act  of  blind 
rage,  was  just  what  commoif  senie  would  have  expected  ;  a 
more  inveterate  opposition  to  the  British  government.  To 
feelings  of  revolutionary  enthusiasm,  was  added  personal 
resentment.  Some  of  the  stone  walls  still  remain,  to  attest 
the  destructive  scene.  Most  of  the  houses  then  burned, 
have  long  since  been  repaired  or  re-built  ;  but  a  few  stand 
untouched  ;  their  mouldering  remains,  force  (lie  imagination 
to  retrace  thejapse  of  thirty-nine  years,  and  amid  the  smok- 
ing ruins  of  their  once  happy  homes,  behold  the  mournful 
visages  of  the  returning  inhabitants,  behold  them  turning 
an  eye  of  vengeance  after  the  destroyers  of  their  property. 
An  inscription  upon  the  end  of  the  village  church,  records 
this  deed  of  barbarism,  this  day  of  mourning,  the  14th  of 
October,  1777.  The  hour  of  vengeance  was  indeed  near ; 
three  days  after,  Burgoync  and  his  army  surrendered  pris- 
oners of  war  at  Saratoga.  The  pride  of  the  spoiler  was 
turned  to  defeat,  modification  and  disgrace. 

Time  and  industry  have  here  effaced  tl\e  ravages  of  war. 
Few,  if  any  villages  in  theUnited  States,  present  at  this  mo- 
ment, an  air  of  more  domestic  comfort,  plenty  and  ease, 
than  does  Kingston.  The  houses  are  scattered,  and  gener- 
ally built  after  the  old  Dutch  taste,  low,  with  few  windows, 
and  those  small.  Some  more  modern  dwellings,  are  excep- 
tions to  the  common  mode,  being  constructed  with  an  ele- 
gance and  convenience  equal  to  the  houses  of  any  of  our 
country  towns. 

Kingston  stands  upon  an  elevated  and  extensive  plain,  be- 
tween the  Rondout  and  Esopus  creeks.  Confining  the  view 
to  the  site  of  the  town  and  adjacent  country,  the  traveller 
would  suppose  himself  on  the  alluvion  of  a  river.  He  is  so 
in  fact,  the  plain  is  a  complete  accretion,  formed  by  the  an- 

B 


KINGSTON. 


[LET,  I. 


cient  slate  of  the  country,  and  by  the  neighboring  streams. 
The  soil  is  sandy,  but  extremely  fertile  and  well  cultivated  ; 
the  meadows  and  orchards  are  numerous  and  excellent;  I 
had  no  means  to  ascertain  with  precision,  the  elevation  of 
the  Kingston  plain  above  the  level  of  tide  water  in  the  Hud- 
son, but  carefully  examhyng  4he  ground,  along  which  the 
intervening  road  winds,  should  be  led  to  believe  that  the  dif- 
ference of  level,  must  exceed  three  hundred  feet.  Though 
16  miles  distant,  the'Catskill  mountains,  from  their  eleva- 
tion, seem  to  be  much  nearer,  and  give  to  Kingston  an  ap- 
pearance of  lying  low,  though  standing  upon  ground  so 
much  above  the  surface  of  Hudson  river. 

In  making  the  tour  of  this  part  of  the  Uryted  States,  no 
traveller  ought  to  pass  without  visiting  Kingston,  and  every 
stranger  will  be  pleased  with  the  soft  beauty  of  its  scenery, 
with  its  retired  situation,  and  with  the  plain  but  affable  man- 
ners of  its  inhabitants. 

August  29ih,  I  left  Kingston,  and  in  the  evening  of  the 
same  day  arrived  in  Hudson.  It  is  along  this  part  of  the 
Hudson,  that  the  Catskill  mountains  can  be  seen  to  most 
advantage.  Their  august  cones  seem  almost  to  rise  from 
the  river  though  eight  or  ten  miles  distant.^ 

*  The  following  statement  of  the  heights  of  mountains  on  the 
Hudson  river,  were  calculated  by  Capt.  Partridge,  and  are  deem- 
ed correct. 

Anthony's  Nose, 
Bare  Mount, 
Crow's  Nest, 
Butter  Hill, 
New  Beacon, 
Fort  Putnam, 

Round  Top, 

Neversink  Heights,-  282  feet, 

State']]  Island,       -       -       -       -  -       307  feet, 

Hempstead  Harbour  Hill,     -  319  feet. 

[JWwbUrg  Toliticcd  Inde#.~) 


Highlands. 

935  feet, 

Sugar  Loaf, 

866  feet, 

1350  feet, 

Bull  Hill, 

1484 

feet, 

1418  feet, 

Break  Neck, 

1187 

feet, 

1529  feet, 

Old  Beacon, 

1471 

feet, 

1535  feet, 

W.  Point  Plain, 

188 

feet. 

598  feet, 

Catskill  Mountains. 

3105  feet, 

High  Peak, 

3019 

feet 

Below  New-York. 

LET.  I.J 


€ITY  OF  HUDSON". 


•27 


Concealed  by  the  peninsula,  between  the  Hudson  and 
Catskill  creek,  but  a  small  part  of  the  town  of  Cat  ski  11  can 
be  seen  from  the  river.  As  I  desired  to  see  all  the  towns 
near  the  margin  of  the  Hudson,  I  determined  to  return  to 
Catskill,  before  ascending  to  the  north  of  the  town  of  Hud- 
son* 

This  latter  village  has  a  prosperous  appearance ;  Us  site 
is  the  most  favorable  to  connect  the  adjacent  country  to  the 
liver,  of  any  town  on  the  Hudson,  between  New-York  and 
Troy.  The  situation  of  Hudson  is  pleasant,  rising  first  by 
a  steep  bank  of  50  or  GO  feet,  and  thence  gradually  from 
the  bank.  That  part  of  the  town  which  approaches  the  wa- 
ter, stands  upon  a  peninsula  projecting  considerably  into  the 
river,  and  affording  a  very  fine  view  both  to  the  north  and 
south,  particularly  the  former.  On  the  opposite  shore 
staiids  the  village  of  Athens,  in  Greene  county.  The  latter 
town  rises  like  Newburg,  though  less  abrupt  from  the  water 
edge ;  every  house  and  the  adjacent  farms  can  be  seen  at  one 
view,  from  the  bank  of  the  Hudson.  Athens  is  small,  and 
no  great  prospect  exists  of  any  augmentation  of  conse- 
queuee.  The  Schoharie  turnpike  road  leaves  the  Hudson 
river  at  Athens,  and  fallowing  the  valley  of  Catskill  along 
its  north  side,  penetrates  the  interior  of  New-York,  by 
winding  round  the  Catskill  mountains.  The  Susquehanna 
turnpike  road  leaves  the  Hudson  at  the  town  of  Catskill,  and 
following  the  south  side  of  the  creek  of  thai  name,  runs 

When  I  passed  the  same  part  of  the  Hudson'  on  my  last  tour, 
(May  3d,  l?>i8,)  the  Catskill  mountains  were  coVered  with  snow, 
Apparently  almost  to  their  base.  This  latter  circumstance,  was 
however,  no  douht  a  deception  in  vision,  as  many  of  the  hills 
near  the  Hudson  bank,  are  five  or  six  hundred  feet  high,  and  the 
snow  had  now  disappeared  from  their  summits.  The  whole 
country  had,  however,  the  dreary  marks  of  winter.  Scarce  a 
new  born  leaf  announced  the  approach  of  spring. '  The  air  was 
cold,  chilly,  and  moist.  The  mountains  of  BerKshjrC,  in  Massa- 
chusetts, and  the  Green  mountains  in  Vermont,  appeared  far  oh 
the  JST.  E.  horizon,  also  white  with  snow. 

% 


KElGllBORiAG  SCESERl*. 


liET.  f< 


•nearly  parallel  (o  the  Schoharie  road,  and  like  it  leads 
through  Greene  county,  into  the  central  parts  xif  the  state. 
These  roads  render  Hudson  a  thoroughfare  from  the 
New  England  states,  for  emigrants  passing  to  the  north  part 
of  Pennsylvania,  and  the  contiguous  part  of  New-York. 

A  ridge  of  land,  rocky,  precipitous,  and  generally  very 
barren,  follows  both  hanks  of  the  Hudson  river,  occasionally 
interrupted.  Behind  these  ridges  and  parallel  to  them,  lies 
two  broken  valleys  of  more  or  less  width.  All  the  towns 
upon  this  singular  river,  are  placed  upon  the  interruptions 
of  these  ridges.  Hudson  is  a  remarkable  example.  I  have 
already  noticed  the  peninsula,  which  forms  the  port  of  Hud- 
son. This  peninsula  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  a  bay,  ter- 
minated by  clay  bluffs,  which  are  yielding  to  the  action  off 
the  water ;  and  on  the  south  extends  another  bay,  which 
gradually  shallows,  and  ends  in  a  deep  morass.  South  of 
this  swamp  rises  a  very  high  hill,  the  north  abutment  of  one 
of  the  ridges  I  have  already  noticed.  Behind  the  town  of 
Hudson,  to  the  eastward,  the  ground  rises  into  considerable 
elevation,  overlooking  from  its  summit  a  vast  expanse  of 
country,  including  the  towns  of  Hudson  and  Athens  ;  the 
l  iver  for  many  miles  ;  its  variegatad  shores,  and  perhaps 
the  best  prospect  that  exists  of  the  Catskill  mountains.  To 
point  out  the  charming  views  included  in  this  elegant  pic- 
ture, w  ould  be  to  describe  every  hill,  dale  and  slope  within 
its  limits.  In  every  direction  to  which  the  eye  can  be  turn- 
ed, a  new  and  elegant  landscape  opens,  and  presents  its 
beauties,  its  character  of  distinctive  attraction,  and  an  out- 
line that  renders  it  a  little  whole  in  itself. 

It  may  indeed  be  considered  as  peculiar  to  the  Hudson 
scenery,  that  almost  all  the  variety  that  the  face  of  the  earth 
can  afford,  is  often  condensed  into  a  compass  of  very  limited 
extent.  Environed  by  cliffs,  crowned  with  dwarf  oak,  pine 
and  cedar,  the  traveller  often  finds  a  projecting  bank,  some- 
times rising  bold,  rude  and  rocky  ;  at  others,  swelling  above 
the  wave  in  rounded  prominences.    Upon  such  banks,  are 


JCET.  I.] 


XfilGilBOHIXQ  SCEXETIT, 


built  many  of  the  finest  country  seats  in  the  United  States  ; 
and  if  a  variegated  country  can  give  gratification  to  refined 
taste,  there  are  few  places  on  earth  where  summer  can  be 
enjoyed  with  more  delight.  In  passing  the  Hudson,  it  is  in 
the  highest  degree  pleasing,  to  view  those  edifices  amid  so 
many  natural  contrasts.  From  the  city  of  New-York  this 
elegant  variety  greets  the  voyager,  above  the  highlands  it 
becomes  more  frequent  and  striking,  and  in  no  extent  of  the 
Hudson  river,  does  its  peculiar  traits  arrest  attention  with 
more  force,  than  near  the  town  of  Hudson.  The  second  day 
after  my  arrival  in  the  neighborhood,  I  traversed  the  road 
from  Hudson  to  Columbiaville,  near  the  month  of  Kinder- 
hook.  The  road  follows  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  eas- 
tern branch  of  Kindcrhook  creek  and  the  Hudson  river,  and 
in  many  places,  commands  very  extensive  views  of  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

At  one  glance  is  often  seen  the  majestic  Hudson,  its  ever 
varied  banks,  the  fleeting  sail,  apparently  mingling  with  the 
farm  houses,  and  above  and  beyond  this  soft  picture  of  peace- 
ful industry,  rises  the  blue  ridges  of  the  distant  mountains. 

Near  the  mouth  of  Kindcrhook,  commences  a  very  striking 
change  in  the  physiognomy  of  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  ;  the 
hills  are  less  abrupt,  and  the  bottoms  are  now  more  extensive 
than  farther  south.  The  soil  presents  no  very  striking  dif- 
ference from  that  found  in  the  interval  between  this  place  and 
the  Highlands ;  but  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  as- 
sumes a  new  character.  Though  still  broken,  the  face  of 
the  country  on  both  banks,  is  more  uniform  than  the  surface 
of  either  Dutchess,  Orange,  or  Greene  counties. 

Kindcrhook  Creek  is  formed  from  two  branches,  the  Cla- 
verack,  and  the  Kinderhook  properly  so  called.  The  for- 
mer rises  in  the  township  of  Hillsdale  in  Columbia  county, 
and  running  first  east,  gradually  turns  south  and  south-west, 
and  approaching  within  three  or  four  miles  of  that  river,  fin- 
ally assumes  a  northern  course,  forming  in  all  its  course,  a 
semi-ellipse  of  about  thirty  miles  in  length.  Kinderhook 

1)2 


RIXDEIUIOOK  CREEK, 


[LET.  I. 


ibises  in  the  township  of  Berlin,  in  Rensselaer  county,  and 
pursuing  a  course  south  or  south-cast,  in  very  nearly  an  op- 
posite direction,  joins  the  Claveraek  about  one  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  Hudson  ;  the  united  stream  unites  with  that 
river,  after  being  precipitated  over  considerable  ledges  of 
transition  slate.  The  curious  structure  of  this  country  ap- 
pears from  the  circumstance,  that  the  Jansens  or  Ancram 
creek,  rising  also  in  Hillsdale,  winds  round  the  Claveraek,  at 
seven  or  eight  miles  distance  from  the  latter  stream.  The 
courses  of,  indeed,  nearly  all  the  watercourses  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, have  a  correspondence,  approaching  the  regulari- 
ty of  ar<  i  their  position  must  have  been  determined  by 
some  general  cause,  some  operation  of  nature,  common  to  a 
considerable  extent  of  country.  It  preserves,  however,  so 
much  of  the  general  character  of  the  Hudson  hanks,  as  to 
present  a  more  broken  surface  near,  than  at  a  distance  from 
that  river. 

Where  the  road  from  Hudson  to  Albany  crosses  Kinder- 
Look  creek,  a  line  wooden  bridge  was  erected  a  few  years 
past.  Within  a  few  paces  below  the  bridge,  on  the  south  side 
of  the  creek,  the  Messrs.  Jenkins'  of  Hudson,  have  a  fine 
merchant  mill,  and  directly  opposite  the  mill,  stands  a  large 
cotton  factory.  During  the  last  war  a  little  village  rose 
around  this  factory,  inhabited  by  weavers,  spinners  and  oth- 
er workmen.  It  is  now  languishing  like  other  similar  es- 
tablishments, aiid  from  like  causes. 

The  creek  rolls  over  different  ledges  of  rock,  under  and 
above  the  bridge,  which  produces  the  fall  of  water  necessary 
to  propel  the  machinery  below.  The  tide  flows  up  to  the 
mill  and  factory.  The  adjacent  country  is  hilly,  particular- 
ly south  of  the  creek.  The  works  lie  so  low  that  the  trav- 
eller is  within  a  few  paces  before  he  can  perceive  their  posi- 
tion ;  and  when  viewing  them  from  the  south  bank,  cannot 
but  be  pleased  with  the  rural  features  of  the  place.  From 
the  eminence  above  the  mill,  can  be  seen  the  fine  farm  and 
seat  of  Mr.  Robert  Livingston,  upon  the  'point  of  land  be- 


LET.  I.] 


COLUMBIAViLLE. 


31 


tween  (he  mouth  of  Kinderhook  creek  and  Hudson  river,  the 
opposite  shores  rising  gently  from  the  water,  and  retiring 
far  into  the  distant  landscape,  in  the  township  of  Coxackie. 
Turning  the  view  a  little  more  to  the  south,  rises  the  highest 
jieaks  of  Catskill  mountains,  in  the  township  of  Windham. 

The  south  side  of  the  little  bay,  if^de  by  Kinderhook 
creek,  is  steep  and  in  many  places  precipitous,  clothed  with 
timber  and  underwood,  its  scenery  is  romantic  and  solitary; 
I  had  the  good  fortune  to  be  kindly  and  hospitably  treated, 
by  Mr.  Marks  Barker  and  his  family,  who  reside  near  this 
seductive  spot.  In  company  with  those  innocent  and  tvh  \in]y 
people,  and  the  sweet  companion  of  my  life  and  of  this 
journey,  I  traversed  those  wilds.    Within  a  few  paces  of  the 
cultivated  farm,  or  «  busy  mill,"  we  might  have  imagined 
ourselves  transported  to  the  abodes  of  primeval  silence  ; 
we  could  have  conceived  ourselves  carried  back  to  the  primi- 
tive ages,  when  cultivation  had  neither  disfigured  or  adorn- 
ed the  face  of  the  earth.    Many  of  the  dells,  dark  and  deep, 
overshadowed  with  oaks,  pine,  cedar  and  maple,  seemed  to 
have  never  before  been  visited  by  human  beings  ;  tiie  turn 
of  a  step  dispelled  this  illusion,  by  disclosing  the  gay  aspect 
of  the  garden,  orchard,  field  and  meadow.    1  had  before 
ranged  over  many  of  the  most  uncultivated  and  unvisited 
parts  of  this  continent.    I  had  often  seen  the  rapid  change, 
from  the  savage  waste  to  the  highly  decorated  abode  of  civ- 
ilized man,  but  I  do  not  remember  to  have  been,  ever  be- 
fore, so  strongly  impressed  with  the  contrast.    The  scenes 
were  before  me  in  all  their  majesty.    The  whole  contour, 
shading,  and  parts  of  one  of  the  most  finely  blended  pictures 
in  nature,  was  open  to  view.    It  was  a  day  I  can  only  forget 
when  I  cease  to  exist.    It  was  enjoyed  amid  objects  that 
now  retain  in  my  mind  all  their  force  of  recollected  interest. 
And  it  is  a  spot  that  the  traveller  may  again,  and  again  re- 
visit, and  never  cease  to  admire. 

August  30th,  with  great  reluctance  I  left  Columbiavilie  ; 
the  name  given  to  the  little  establishment  on  Kinderhook, 


CATSK1LX 


[LET.  I. 


and  relumed  through  Hudson  and  Athens,-  to  Catskill. 
Like  Columbiavillc,  Catskill  stands  upon  the  bay  or  mouth 
of  a  large  creek,  surrounded,  overshadowed  and  almost  con- 
cealed by  hills.  The  latter  town  is  apparently  flourishing 
and  commercial,  having  a  rich  and  well  cultivated  country 
along  Catskiil,  to  support  its  prosperity.  It  was  with  pain  I 
was  obliged,  from  the  nature  of  my  private  concerns,  to 
forego  the  pleasure  of  visiting  the  vicinity  of  Catskill  town- 
From  the  alpine  nature  of  part  of  this  region,  from  the 
beauty  and  variety  of  aspect  it  presented  to  my  eye,  when 
seen  from  the  Hudson  hills,  and  from  all  the  descriptions  of 
its  features,  that  I  have  seen,  I  am  confident  I  lost  much,  its 
not  being  able  to  range  over  its  plains  and  mountains.  There 
is  no  doubt,  but  tha*t  this  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
tracts  in  the  United  States,  and  perhaps  the  one  where  the 
strongest  contrasts  can  be  found  in  the  shortest  space.  All 
the  variety  of  soil,  and  formation  from  primitive  granite  to 
the  most  recent  alluvion,  can  be  examined  here  in  less  than 
one  day. 

A  good  statistical  and  geological  description  of  Greene 
county,  would  present  many  of  the  noblest  features  of  the 
United  States  to  view.  The  mouth  of  Catskill  creek  lies- 
level  with  the  Atlantic  tides,  and  the  most  elevated  of  th© 
Catsbergs.  in  Windham,  rises  to  about  3500  feet.  Between 
these  extremes,  how  immense  the  variety  of  vegetable  pro- 
duction ;  perhaps  the  mineral  kingdom  would  not  be  less 
productive,  if  as  accessible  to  human  research. 

In  this  region,  the  traveller  now  finds  some  scenes  of  sub- 
lime interest.  «  The  round-top,  is  found  to  be  elevated 
«  3655  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river  j  the  high-peak 
**  3\87.  These  summits  are  in  Windham,  Greene  county, 
"  about  20  miles  west  of  Hudson,  and  in  full  view  from  that 
**  city.  A  turnpike  road  which  crosses  this  range  ofmoun- 
« tains,  near  these  summits,  winds  up  until  it  reaches  the 
"  astonishing  altitude  of  2274  feet  j  and  from  this  spot  the 


LET.  I.] 


KATERSKILL, 


«  view  is  inexpressibly  grand."*  Tliis  is  the  highest  road 
in  the  United  States,  exceeding  by  far  in  elevation  any  of 
the  passes  of  the  Allegany  chain,  south  of  this  place. 

In  this  alpine  region,  exists  also,  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing cataracts  in  North  America  ;  not  from  the  mass  of  wa- 
ter, but  from  the  perpendicular  descent  of  the  stream,  and 
peculiar  structure  of  the  adjacent  country.  It  is  a  curiosi- 
ty but  little  known  beyond  the  neighborhood  where  it  exists* 
though  within  a  very  short  distance  of  the  mountain  road  I 
have  already  noticed.  "  The  high  fall  of  the  Katerskill  is 
**  about  half  a  mile  from  this  road,  near  the  summit  of  tho 
"  mountain  and  twelve  miles  from  Catskill.  The  stream 
'<  arises  from  two  small  ponds,  one  quarter  of  a  mile  apart* 
««  and  runs  gently  two  miles,  where  it  breaks  over  a  rocky 
"  precipice  of  310  feet,  perpendicular  height."!  The 
mountains  are  inhabited  to  their  summits,  enabling  travel- 
lers who  visit  them,  to  find  accommodation  in  their  most  ele  - 
vated valleys. 

My  time  spent  in  the  vicinity  of  Catskill,  was  too  short 
to  gratify  my  own  curiosity,  or  to  collect  extensive  informa- 
tion on  local  subjects.  The  general  outline  was  all  I  could 
examine,  and  even  that  imperfectly.  I  saw  enough  to  ex- 
cite a  regret,  I  can  only  eradicate  by  returning  under  cir- 
cumstances, which  will  enable  me  to  remain  long  enough  to 
ascend  the  highest  mountain,  and  range  the  lowest  valley  in 
this  diversified  tract. 

September  4th,  I  set  out  from  Hudson  for  Albany.  A- 
bove  the  village  of  Columbiaville,  the  road  follows  the  val- 
ley of  the  Kinderhook  creek.  The  country  in  many  places 
level ;  so  much  so,  as  to  remind  me  often  of  even  Louisiana, 
This  recollection  was,  however,  only  momentary j  high 
rocky  hills  appearing  to  the  eastward  at  short  intervals. 
The  flourishing  village  of  Kinderhook,  stands  upon  the  allu- 


*  Spafford's  Gazetteer.,  page  9. 
f  Spafjford's  Gazetteer,  page  330, 


KINDERHOOK* 


[LET.  I. 


vial  banks  of  Hie  creek  of  the  same  name,  twelve  miles 
above  Hudson.     Above  Kinderhook  village,  commences  a 
body  of  level  land,  covered  in  its  native  slate  with  pine 
timber.    This  tract  affords  a  very  remarkable  instance  of  the 
revolutions,  to  which  the  price  of  landed  property  is  subject. 
I  was  informed  on  the  spot,  that  about  thirty  years  ago,  this 
pine  land  was  considered  of  so  little  value,  as  to  render  its 
possession  onerous  to  the  proprietor.    Now,  some  of  the 
most  valuable  farms  in  the  two  counties  of  Columbia  and 
Rensselaer,  arc  formed  upon  its  surface.    To  my  eye,  who 
had  travelled  over  so  many  millions  of  acres  of  pine  land, 
in  the  states  of  Louisiana,  Mississippi,  and  the  Alabama 
territory,  the  very  existence  of  pine  timber  in  any  great  bo- 
dies, produced  ideas  of  sterility.    It  is  to  gypsum  that  the 
region  I  am  now  speaking  of,  owes  most  of  its  reputation 
as  productive  soil.    Improved  modes  of  agriculture,  and 
the  use  of  manure,  have  their  share  very  extensively  in  pro- 
ducing so  beneficial  a  change.    It  delighted  me  the  more, 
to  see  flourishing  farms  amid  forests  of  pine,  as  it  convin- 
ced my  mind,  that  the  pine  regions  I  once  considered  con- 
demned to  irremediable  barrenness,  may  be  made  highly 
fruitful.    If  this  conclusion  is  correct,  and  I  now  see  its 
practical  demonstration,  the  possible  existence  of  many  mil- 
lions of  human  beings  is  made  manifest,  that  could  never  exist 
if  pine  lands  were  unimprovable.    Considerably  more  than 
one  half  of  all  that  part  of  the  United  States,  south  of  lat. 
35,  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  bounded  south  by  the 
Gulph  of  Mexico  aad  Florida,  is  covered  with  pine.  All 
Florida  may  be  considered  a  pine  country. 

Approaching  Albany,  the  road  from  Hudson  passes  over 
a  very  hilly  and  sandy  tract.  The  plains  terminate  with  the 
waters  of  Kinderhook  ;  but  pine  every  where  now  presents 
itself  as  the  prevailing  tree,  and  though  I  had  seen  the  prac- 
tical possibility  of  cultivating  usefully,  land  upon  which  this 
tree  abounds,  to  even  the  exclusion  of  all  others,  yet  so  con- 
firmed were  my  habits  of  thinking  on  the  subject,  that  it 


LET.  I.j 


ALBANY* 


8* 


gave  to  (be  vicinity  of  Albany  an  air  of  barrenness  1  Lave 
since  been  convinced  it  docs  not  deserve. 

The  approach  to  Albany  upon   thi^road,  affords  one  of 
the  finest  landscapes  on  the  Hudson.    About  one  and  a  half 
miles  from  the  city,  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  opens,  present- 
ing'Albany,  Grcenbush,  the  wide  sweeping  bottoms  of  the 
river,  and  the  adjacent  farms  ;   though  thirty  miles  distant 
the  peaks  of  Windham,  and  up  the  Hudson,  the  elevated 
country  beyond  Troy  and  Lansingburgh.    The  view  of  Al- 
bany itself,  is  from  tins  hill  extremely  advantangeous  j  from 
the  rapid  acclivity  upon  which  that  city  is  built,  scarce  a 
bouse  is  unseen.    There  is  no  point  in  the  respective  vicini- 
ty of  either  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  New-York,  or  Boston*, 
where  those  cities  can  be  so  completely  cngrasped  at  one 
glance  of  the  eye  ;  the  view  of  Pittsburg  from  the  Mononga- 
hela  coal  hill,  is  the  only  position  that  I  have  seen,  which 
equals  that  near  Albany.    The  lattcHs,  however,  superior 
as  commanding  a  much  wider  field  of  vision. 

Yours,, 


*6 


xitor. 


[^ET.  II> 


•BETTER  II, 

Troy,  May  5th,  ISIS, 

Bear  Sik, 

The  weather  lias  been  uniformly  and  excessively  in- 
clement since  my  departure  from  New-York,  and  in  a  par- 
ticular manner  since  my  arrival  in  Albany.  The  roads  in 
this  neighborhood  are  scarcely  passable.  With  some  dan- 
ger and  difficulty  I  yesterday  came  to  this  town.  We  have 
this  morning  an  interval  of  clear  sun-shine,  which  is  cheer- 
ful, and  has  exposed  from  the  front  street  the  snow  capped 
summits  of  the  Catsbergs.  -The  absence  indeed  of  ice  and 
snow,  is  the  only  circumstance  that  even  here  marked  the 
approach  of  spring  ;  every  object  has  otherwise,  the  cold 
and  solitary  aspect  of  winter.  The  Tludson  is  excessively 
swelled  by  the  recent  rains,  and  by  the  melting  ice  and 
snow  towards  its  source. 

The  banks  near  this  town,  at  Albany,  and  for  a  few  miles 
below  that  city,  indicate  the  diminished  influence  of  the 
tide,  and  the  effects  produced  by  mountain  streams.  Exten- 
ded alluvial  bottoms,  and  a  continued  current  to  the  south- 
ward, though  still  checked  by  the  swell  below,  are  changes 
that  obtrude  themselves  to  the  immediate  notice  of  the 
traveller. 

This  town  is  the  first  upon  the  Hudson,  that  can  be  con- 
sidered as  built  upon  the  bottoms  of  that  river.  The  site 
is  not  elevated  more  than  eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  level 
of  high  water  mark  on  the  river  bank,  sloping  gradually  to 
the  water  edge.  Some  of  the  lower  parts  are  now  inunda- 
ted. The  base  of  the  bottom  on  which  the  town  is  placed* 
is  rolled  pebble  with  an  alluvial  covering ;  it  is  about  800 
yards  wide,  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  river  bank, 
The  hills  rise  with  a  very#steep  acclivity,  but  without  preci- 
pices. 


JCET.  II.] 


TROY. 


37 


I  measured  a  base  235  feet,  in  Col.  Albert  Pawlin's  gar- 
den, upon  a  very  level  plain  from  the  extremity  of  which  I 
took  angles  of  elevation,  to  standing  objects  upon  the  hill 
in  the  rear  of  the  city  ;  the  calculations  founded  upon  the 
base  and  angles  gave  Zhk  feet  as  the  height  of  the  hill,  at 
the  distance  of  3951  feet  from  the  south  extremity  of  the 
base.  The  garden,  in  which  this  operation  was  performed, 
is  situated  at  the  lower  end  of  the  city,  about  100  feet 
from  the  margin  dell,  and  not  more  than  two  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  Hudson  river,  at  the  time  the  admeas- 
urement was  made. 

Troy  is  formed  by  one  main  street  inclining  with  the  in- 
flections of  the  river,  and  crossed  by  others  running  from 
the  river,  to  the  base  of  the  adjacent  hills.  Standing  at  or 
near  the  head  of  tide  water,  lying  so  nearly  level  with  the 
Hudson,  and  having  a  well  cultivated  country  above  and  in 
its  rear,  Troy  is  well  situated  for  a  commercial  town.  In 
point  of  wealth,  business,  population  and  extent,  it  is  the 
third  town  in  the  state  of  New-York.  Most  of  the  buildings 
are  of  brick,  and  have  an  elegant  and  spacious  appearance  ; 
the  inhabitants  cannot  fall  short  of  seren  thousand. 

We  have  often,  in  conversation,  spoke  of  the  Hudson  as  a 
long  narrow  bay,  rather  than  a  river.  This  body  of  water 
has  indeed  but  one  characteristic,  that  could  ever  give  it  the 
appellation  of  a  river  j  that  is  its  great  length,  when  com- 
pared  with  its  ordinary  width.  In  every  other  respect*  it 
exhibits  the  common  features  of  a  bay,  I  do  not  remember 
to  have  ever  read  in  any  author,  an  attempt  to  define  the 
real  difference  between  a  river  and  a  bay  ;  you  will  recol 
leet  that  in  our  little  hydrographical  definitions,  we  consid- 
ered that  body  of  water  a  river,  whose  opposing  banks,  did 
actually  or  very  nearly  form  corresponding  curves  j  and  we 
viewed  that  body  of  water  a  bay,  into  which,  if  connected 
with  a  sea  having  tides,  those  tides  flowed,  and  whose  oppo- 
site banks  did  not  obey  opposing  inflections.  If  these  prin- 
ciples of  analysis  are  correct,  the  Hudson  is  a  bay  to  the 


TROY, 


[XET.  II. 


junction  of  its  north  branch  with  the  Mohawk.  It  is  to  be 
regretted,  that  the  continuity  of  the  Hudson  above  Water- 
ford,  wad  not  received  a  distinctive  name  from  the  bay  or 
river  below.  In  reality  the  Mohawk  and  the  upper  Hudson, 
after  rolling  over  considerable  falls,  both  enter  the  head  of  a 
bay.  The  features  of  those  two  latter  rivers,  except  in 
magnitude,  differ  but  little  from  the  other  streams,  which  1 
have  their  sources  in  the  higher  extremities  of  the  Hudson 
valley,  and  which  flowing  over  a  comparative  table  land, 
approach  near,  and  are  then  precipitated  over  elevated  ledg- 
es of  rock,  before  finding  the  level  of  the  recumbent  bay. 

Examining  the  environs  of  Troy,  Lansingburg,  and  Wa 
terford,  I  found  PocstenVKil!,  which  enters  the  Hudson  at 
the  lower  extremity  of  the  former  town,  rolling  over  reite- 
rated cataracts,  similar  to  all  the  streams  I  had  seen  from 
the  Highlands  upwards.  The  Mohawk  dashing  over  the 
Cahoos  falls,  and  the  Hudson  over  its  numerous  rapids,  all 
seem  influenced  in  their  motion  by  one  common  cause. 

The  view  from  the  hills  near  Troy  is  extensive,  but  the 
quantity  of  pine  and  cedar,  give  here,  as  near  Albany,  a 
sterile  aspect  to  the  neighboring  country.  I  have  before  ob- 
served, that  associating  ideas  of  sterility  with  these  ever- 
greens, is  in  part  a  mistaken  application  of  data,  taken  from 
a  distant  and  in  many  respects  a  very  different  country. 
W ell  informed  men  have  observed  to  me,  when  speaking  of 
those  lands  that  appeared  so  barren,  that,  good  husbandry 
never  failed  to  render  them  very  productive.  Your  intelli- 
gent friend  B*****l,  of  Albany,  who  has  made  the  experi- 
ment upon  part  of  the  worst  of  those  lands,  confirms  in 
strong  language  their  liability  to  amelioration.  I  am  font! 
of  dwelling  upon,  and  often  recurring  to  such  subjects.  It 
is  pleasing  to  be  convinced  that  a  dense  and  happy  popula- 
tion, may  be  subsisted  upon  places  where  once  incurable 
sterility  seemed  to  reign.  Adieu. 


£ET.  III.] 


SCHENECTADY. 


30 


LETTER  III. 

Schenectady,  Mai)  8lh,  1S1#. 

Dear  SrR, 

I  would  have  been  pleased  to  have  extended  my  ram- 
bles more  into  (he  adjacent  country,  near  Albany  and  Troy, 
but  the  incessant  rain  prevented  any  comfortable  or  benefi- 
cial excursion.  The  6th  of  May  the  rain  fell  in  torrents, 
in  the  midst  of  which  I  returned  from  Troy  to  Albany* 
where  I  remained  until  the  morning  of  the  Sth,  when  I  set 
out  in  the  stage  for  the  westward.  The  rain  had  ceased  in 
the  night,  but  the  roads  for  about  (wo  miles  from  the  city*, 
were  so  intolerable  as  to  oblige  the  passengers  to  leave  the 
stage,  in  order  to  enable  the  horses  to  drag  the  vehicle 
through  the  deep  mud.  After  attaining  the  summit  level 
at  the  western  part  of  Albany,  the  country  is  level,  the 
surface  a  clay  mixed  with  sand  and  whether  the  wretched 
road  that  exists  there,  is  the  necessary  consequence  of  the 
nature  of  the  surface  or  soil,  or  the  effect  of  a  defective  po- 
lice, those  most  concerned  ought  to  explain.  As  it  was,  I 
was  glad  to  arrive  safe  over  this  marsh,  and  attain  the  sandy 
plains  farther  to  the  westward. 

The  distance  from  Albany  to  Schenectady  is  sixteen  com 
puted  miles;  the  intermediate  country  is  broken,  rolling 
sandy,  and  in  its  natural  state  extremely  barren.  The  prin- 
cipal timber  white  pine  and  red  cedar,  admixed  near  the 
streams  with  some  white  oak,  black  oak,  and  white  birch, 
with  a  few  stems  of  red  flowering  maple.  The  water  courses 
which  cross  the  road  flow  north-east  towards  the  Mohawk, 
and  have  some  fine  extensive  farms  upon  their  alluvial  bot- 
toms. Before  reaching  Schenectady  a  high  hill  gives  tiie 
traveller  a  full  view  of  the  adjacent  country.  At  the  time 
of  the  year  in  w  hich  I  travelled  a  few  blossoms  upon  the 
maples  and  birch  trees,  were  the  only  harbingers  of  ap- 


40  SCI1ENEGTADY.  PLET.  III. 

•  •  •  ^ 

proaehing  spring.  The  slopes  of  the  Mohawk  were  clothed 
with  pine  and  cedar  ;  the  leafless  branches  of  the  other  trees 
were  hid  amid  the  deep  green  boughs  of  those  hardy  sons  of 
the  forest.  Descending  into  the  vale  in  which  stands  the 
comparatively  ancient  village  of  Schenectady,  another  and 
more  pleasing  scene  opens.  The  very  flourishing  village 
standing  upon  the  fertile  alluvial  flats  of  the  Mohawk  pre- 
sents a  rich  picture  of  cultivation,  contrasting  strongly  with 
the  sandy  hills  towards  Albany,  or  the  equally  arid  eminen- 
ces beyond  the  Mohawk  to  the  north  of  Schenectady. 

This  town,  or  city,  is  situated  upon  the  flats  at  the  bottom 
of  the  hills,  on  the  south  or  right  side  of  the  Mohawk  river  ; 
it  is  more  regularly  laid  out  than  most  of  the  ancient  towns 
established  by  the  early  settlers  of  New- York,  now  contains 
more  than  500  houses,  and  perhaps  S000  inhabitants.  Many 
of  the  buildings  are  large,  expensive  and  elegant.  This  town 
is  well  placed  to  receive  the  benefits  of  an  extensive  com- 
merce with  the  rich  and  prosperous  settlements  which  bor- 
der the  Mohawk  to  its  source.  The  inhabitants  seem  to 
have  availed  themselves  of  their  advantages,  the  trade  of  the 
place  appears  productive. 

Schenectady  recals  many  facts  of  historical  interest.  It 
formed  for  a  long  period  of  time,  the  frontier  town  towards 
the  Indian  country.  In  February,  1690,  a  marauding  party 
of  French  and  Indians  surprised  the  inhabitants  before  day 
light  in  the  morning.  Aroused  from  their  peaceful  beds  by 
the  explosion  of  the  fire  arms,  and  the  piercing  yells  of  their 
savage  enemies,  an  indiscriminate  slaughter  ensued.  The 
mother  and  the  babe,  the  husband  and  wife,  the  brother  and 
sister  shared  the  same  fate.  A  few  escaped,  who  almost 
naked,  through  frost  and  snow  carried  the  distressful  tidings 
to  Albany.  This  was  one  of  the  many,  and  one  of  the  most 
tragical  scenes  of  savage  border  warfare,  that  has  occurred 
with  some  intervals,  around  our  settlements  for  upwards  of 
two  centuries,  and  which  is  far  from  having  terminated. 
The  massacre  at  Fort  Mims,  and  many  others  within  five 


LET.  III. J 


SCHENECTADY. 


41 


years  past,  are  only  recent  instances  of  the  continuation  of 
this  most  dreadful  of  all  species  of  war.  The  circle  is 
widening,  the  very  nation  has  ceased  to  exist,  which  reduced 
Schenectady  to  ashes  and  buried  in  its  ruins  the  remains  of 
its  murdered  citizens,  but  other  hordes  of  savages  have  con- 
tinually presented  their  ferocious  front,  and  our  frontiers 
have  ever  been  stained  with  the  blood  of  helpless  innocence. 
Those  tribes  have  apparently  receded,  but  in  fact  they  have 
been  rather  extinguished. 

The  Mohawks,^  who  once  gave  law  to  an  immense  extent^ 
the  centre  of  which  was  the  present  New- York,  have  also  dis- 
appeared from  the  world,  and  have  only  now  remaining  to  at- 
test their  former  existence,  the  name  of  the  beautiful  stream 
upon  which  is  situated  the  town  of  Schenectady.  Its  current 
once  stained  with  human  gore,  now  flows  gentle,  pure  and 
steady,  through  some  of  the  finest  settlements  in  all  America* 

Schenectady  is  the  seat  ot  justice  for  the  county  of  the 
same  name,  and  as  such,  contains  the  usual  buildings  neces- 
sary for  courts  of  justice  and  prisons.  It  is  also  more 
honourably  remarkable,  as  having  within  its  limits  Union 
College,  a  respectable  literary  institution,  incorporated  in 
179^,  and  took  its  name  from  the  union  of  several  religious 
societies  in  its  formation.f  It  is  now  in  a  flourishing  situa- 
tion, having  an  ample  library,  philosophical  and  chymical  ap- 
paratus, and  upwards  of  130  students.  The  annual  expense 
Of  board  and  education  about  gi20  per  annum.  Doubts 
have  been  suggested  whether  a  good  moral  policy  would 
justify  the  reduction  of  collegiate  education  so  lotv.  Many 
reasons  more  specious  than  solid,  have  been  adduced,  to 
shew,  "  that  little  learning  is  a  dangerous  thing"  and  that 
man,  4  must  drink  deep,  or  taste  not  of  the  Pierian  spring.'* 
I  can  never  forget  your  reply,  when  I  once  observed,  that 
the  time  never  could  arrive  when  all  mankind  could  be  learn^ 
ed.    Your  expression  was,  that  comparatively,  almost  any 

*  The  allies,  not  the  enemies  of  the  people  of  Schenectady, 
t  Spaftbrds  Gazetteer,  page  44. 

E 


VALLEY  OF  THE  MOHAWK  RIVER.       LET.  lit. 


member  of  a  civilized  country  was  learned,  when  compared 
with  savages  ;  and  the  common  mode  of  expression  would 
suppose,  that,  all  men  ought  to  remain  savage,  or  attain  the 
empyrean  heights  of  literary  excellence.  Some  light  head- 
ed dunces  have  become  pedants  by  obtaining  a  few  words  in 
the  learned  languages  ;  as  our  friend  A***s,  who  spouts 
languages  living  and  dead,  without  more  utility  than  a  par- 
rot would  gain  by  using  the  same  sounds.  It  cannot  now, 
however,  be  doubted,  but  that  the  human  character  is  enno- 
bled, the  human  heart  softened,  and  public  morals  purified,  by 
genera!  instruction.'  Though  slight  abuses  may  arise  in  some 
instances  from  the  weakness  or  depravity  of  individuals, 
those  abuses  deteriorate  no  more  from  the  value  of  educa- 
tion, than  the  ordinary  defects  of  all  human  institutions  do, 
from  any  amelioration  whatever  in  the  condition  of  our  spe- 
cies. 

For  my  own  part,  I  viewed  the  buildings  composing  the 
three  colleges  w  hich  bear  the  name  of  Union  in  Schenectady, 
with  a  similar  reverence,  with  which  I  had  formerly  felt 
when  passing  Cambridge,  Yale,  Columbia,  Princeton,  and 
Dickinson.  Those,  and  other  such  edifices,  are  the  true 
temples  of  reason. 

In  the  vale  of  the  Mohawk,  I  considered  myself  as  in  a 
new  region.  I  had  now  passed  the  utmost  limit  of  (he  At- 
lantic tides.  Clinton's  Inaugural  Discourse,  and  Dr.  Mitch- 
ill's  notes  to  Kirk  and  Mercein's  edition  of  Cuvier's 
Theory  of  the  Earth?  had  enflained  my  desire  to  visit  the 
interior  of  this  continent.  I  also  wished  to  contrast  with 
each  other,  the  two  extremities  of  the  United  States.  My 
progress  from  the  city  of  New-York  to  Albany,  and  even  to 
Schenectady,  as  merely  introductory  to  my  real  tour* 
Hitherto  I  had  travelled  over  a  region  remarkable  in  itself, 
but  with  features  of  considerable  resemblance  to  the  scenes 
to  which  you  are  most  familiar,  but  from  hence  objects  are 
new,  and  of  a  nature  very  dissimilar  to  those  over  which  we 
have  been  in  the  habit  of  rambling. 

You  will  hear  of  me  again  from  Utica,  Adieu. 


XET.  IV.] 


SCHENECTADY. 


LETTER  IV. 

Utica,  May  lif.fi,  181$. 

Dear  Sir> 

By  an  unexpected  good  fortune  the  Weather  continued 
without-  rain  during  my  journey  from  Schenectady  to  this* 
town.  The  roads  were  in  many  places  extremely  bad,  which 
circumstance  had  one  good  effect,  it  enabled  me  to  keep  in 
advance  of  the  stage,  and  by  travelling  on  foot,  and  in  some 
measure  at  my  leisure,  procured  me  a  much  better  view  of 
the  country  than  I  could  have  gained  by  continuing  in  the 
vehicle.  I  kept  my  pocket  book  and  pencil  in  my  hand,  and 
made  my  notes  as  the  objects  presented  themselves.  Rough 
as  these  notes  are,  1  have  seiit  you  a  copy,  lean  add  nothing 
material  by  putting  them  in  any  other  form.  You  expressed 
a  kind  desire  to  hear  from  me,  and  to  have  as  near  as  pos- 
sible a  picture  of  my  route,  and  a  description  of  the  incidents 
of  my  tour,  as  these  incidents  transpired.  The  distances  are 
given  from  Albany,  as  it  was  on  leaving  that  city,  that  I 
commenced  to  note  regularly  the  stages  and  diversities  of 
the  country. 

MILES* 

10  From  Albany  to  Schdrteetady. 

As  soon  as  I  had  finished  breakfast  in  the  latter 
town,  I  seized  my  cane,  put  your  letter  in  the 
mail,  and  preceded  the  stage  over  the  Mohawk. 
The  road  here  passes  this  stream  by  a  fine  wooden 
bridge,  said  to  be  the  masterpiece  of  the  celebra- 
ted bridge  builder,  Theodore  Burr  ;  it  is  997  feet  in 
length.  The  structure  was  entirely  new  to  me* 
and  could  not  be  satisfactorily  given  without  a 
diagram.  The  most  facile  mode  of  conveying  to 
you,  an  idea  of  the  principle  upon  which  ihh 
bridge  is  formed,  is  by  an      placed  lengthwise* 


MOHAWK  RIVER. 


[LET.  IV* 


MILES. 

— 16  The  decumbent  curves  resting  upon  abutments, 
and  the  incumbent  ones  supporting  the  roof;  the 
w  hole  fabric  has  the  appearance  of  great  strength. 
The  abutments  are  composed  of  stone,  the  super- 
structure wood  i  the  curved  arches  are  framed  out 
of  thick  plank. 

The  road  to  Ballston  leaves  that  to  Utica,  at  the 
north  extremity  of  the  bridge.  The  latter  road 
proceeds  over  the  Mohawk  flats,  a  rich  and  level 
alluvial  bottom,  which  has  much  the  appearance  of 
having  once  been  the  bottom  of  a  lake.  These 
plains  are  now  extremely  productive,  though  envi- 
roned on  the  north  and  south  sides  by  sterile  pin© 
hills. 

fi — '21    Haveleifs  tavern* 

8**-29    Groat's  tavern. 

Between  the  two  last  stages,  the  country  has  be 
come  extremely  variegated  and  broken;  The  #orth 
bank  along  which  I  travelled,  was  hilly,  and  often 
so  precipitous,  as  to  leave  scarce  room  for  the  road 
to  pass ;  the  south  side  slopes  gradually  from  the 
river,  with  numerous  farms  rising  above  each 
other  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  soil  of  the 
north  side  appears  sandy  and  sterile,  that  of  the 
south  must  be  of  a  greatly  superior  quality.  The 
prevalent  timber  on  the  hills  pine,  with  different 
kinds  of  oak  and  white  birch ;  that  on  the  river 
bottoms  and  contiguous  banks,  white  walnut, 
shell  bark  hickory,  some  liriodendron  tulipifera 
and  chesnut. 

The  river  is  about  250  yards  wide,  and  filled 
with  islarfds,  which  follow  each  other  in  rapid 
succession.  Sand  and  rounded  pebbles  form  the 
superstratum,  but  schistose  limestone  appears  pro- 
jecting from  the  banks  in  a  horizontal  position* 
marking  the  commencement  of  a  secondary  region* 


LET.  IV. j 


TRIPES  HIJL1U 


>IIXES. 

1—  30    E.  E.  Degraff's: 
1_31    G.  Manny's. 

Horizontal  or  Floetz  limestone,  becomes  more 
frequent.  The  opposing  banks  maintain  their  rela- 
tive characters. 

2 —  33    Village  of  Amsterdam  in  Montgomery  county. 

This  is  a  romantic  village,  situated  on  the  slope 
of  the  hills,  with  the  Chucktanunda,  a  large  creek 
foaming  over  ledges  of  limestone  amongst  the 
buildings,  and  rushing  impetuously  down  the  adja- 
cent declivities  towards  the  Mohawk.  The  sud- 
den effect  of  this  admixture  of  houses  and  cataracts 
is  extremely  pleasing  and  picturesque.  The  south 
shore  continues  to  sweep  before  the  eye,  in  far  dis- 
tant stages  of  cultivated  acclivities. 
& — 37  Tripes  Hill,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Scoharie  river, 
or  creek. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  singular  and  difficult 
passes  on  the  Mohawk  river.  The  hill  rises 
abrupt,  is  high,  sandy,  and  extremely  painful  in 
the  ascent.  There  is  no  mode  to  avoid  this  in 
convenience,  as  the  bank  of  the  river  is  an  ele- 
vated ledge  of  rock  on  the  north  side.  The  table 
land  is  a  sandy  plain,  and  the  descent  above  is  also 
but  little  less  abrupt  than  the  ascent  below.  From 
the  highest  part  of  the  hill,  the  mouth  and  valley 
of  the  Schoharie  is  in  full  view.  The  bottom  of 
the  Mohawk  is  here  extensive,  but  extremely  flat 
on  the  south  side  ;  the  Schoharie  is  seen  meandering 
over  this  plain  in  its  course  from  the  hills  to  the 
Mohawk  river.  The  bottoms  appear  extremely 
fertile,  but  must  be  subject  to  occasional  inundation, 
and  from  their  undeviating  level,  the  crops  must 
suffer  great  injury  when  these  accidents  occur, 


PALATINE. 


[iLT/r.  IV 


MILES. 

2 —  39    Converts  tavern. 

3 —  *2    Village  of  Caghnawaga, 

4 —  43    Johnson's  creek. 

6 — M    Conueh/s  tavern. 

5—  57    Palatine  lower  Village. 

Between  the  two  last  stages,  the  road  passes 
generally  upon  the  river  bottoms,  which  are  narrow 
and  terminated  to  the  north  by  steep  hills  or  per- 
pendicular ledges  of  secondary  rock.  The  south 
bank  is  also  broken,  rocky  and  much  less  cultiva- 
ted than  any  equal  distance  I  have  yet  seen  on  the 
Mohawk.  The  soil  black,  and  no  doubt  fertile  : 
even  that  of  the  hills  assumes  a  more  inviting  ap- 
pearance as  I  have  ascended.  The  timber  is  now 
strongly  indicative  of  productive  soil ;  sugar  maple 
is  so  common  as  to  form  the  principal  article  of 
fuel,  this  tree  never  flourishes  abundantly,  except 
upon  the  very  best  lands ;  it  is  here  often  seen  of 
gigantic  size  along  the  bottoms,  and  often  upon  the 
highest  and  steepest  banks  visible  from  the  road. 
Other  timber  trees,  though  fewer  in  number,  con- 
tinue as  before  noted. 

The  rock  strata  is  schistose  limestone  and  sand-, 
stone,  alternately  overlaying  each  other. 
4—61    Falatine  njyper  village. 

Face  of  the  country  continues  unchanged,  on  ea«h 
side  of  the  river,  perpendicular  precipices  frequent* 
I  remained  over  night  in  the  latter  village,  and  at 
the  dawn  of  day,  on  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  May, 
set  out  on  foot  in  advance  of  the  stage,  and  walked 

6—  67    to  Palatine  church.    Slope  of  the  country  has  now 

changed  to  the  north  or  left  side  of  the  stream. 
Sugar  maple  the  prevailing  timber,  and  almost  ex- 
clusive fucL 


X.ET.  IV.] 


GFPENIIEIM. 


*7 


MILES. 

7 — 7i    Mouth  of  East  Canada  creek*  and  village  of  Op* 
pcuheim. 

The  village  stands  near  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk 
above  (he  mouth  of  the  creek.  Lower  or  East 
Canada,  is  a  fine  mill  stream  of  about  twenty-five 
miles  in  length,  independent  of  particular  bends, 
rising  in  Montgomery  county  upon  the  same  table 
land  from  which  flows  the  Saeondago  branch  of 
Hudson  river.  The  two  streams  interlock,  and 
falling  over  a  number  of  precipices,  pursue  their 
respective  courses  with  great  rapidity,  until  lost  in 
in  the  larger  stream,  into  which  their  waters  are 
discharged.  It  may  be  here  repeated  that  all  (he 
tributary  streams  of  the  Hudson,  and  its  branches 
seem  to  be  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  construction  of 
water  machinery.  East  Canada  creek  forms  from 
its  mouth,  about  twenty  miles  of  the  boundary  be- 
tween Montgomery  and  Herkimer  counties, 

Oppenheim  is  a  small  village,  with  nothing  iti  its 
construction  or  situation  worthy  particular  notice. 
3-^77    Van  Walkenburgh's  Inn. 

Since  leaving  Oppenheim,  I  travelled  over  high 
hills  ;  the  slope  has  now  again  changed  to  the  south 
side  of  the  Mohawk,  which  presents  an  elegant  ac- 
clivity rising  to  considerable  elevation,  chequered 
with  farms  and  copses  of  wood,  intermingling  in 
endless  variety.  A  summer  excursion  over  this  re 
gion  must  afford  the  most  charming  contrasts  in 
nature.  It  is  now  pleasing  in  the  undress  of  nature, 
with  banks  of  snow  still  resting  upon  many  of  the 
hill  sides. 

The  timber  continues  to  present  similar  varieties 
as  before  noticed,  since  leaving  Palatine,  except 
that  sugar  maple,  now  encroaches  still  more  upon 
the  other  species  of  trees. 


48 


KITTLE  FALLS. 


[LET.  IT. 


MILES, 

M    Little  Falls. 

This  cataract  is  caused  by  a  chain  of  granitic 
mountains  of  no  great  elevation,  which  crosses  the 
Mohawk  at  this  place.  The  chain  is  a  ramification, 
or  perhaps  a  continuation  of  the  Catsbergs.  Ap- 
proaching the  pass,  I  was  struck  with  its  great  re- 
semblance to  the  passage  of  the  Juniata,  through 
the  Warrior  mountain  below  Bedford,  in  Pennsyl- 
vania, except  that  the  scenery  of  the  latter  is  on  a 
larger  scale,  and  the  mountains  covered  with  a  less 
■vigorous  growth  of  trees,  than  those  which  occasion 
the  Little  Falls  in;the  Mohawk.  In  both,  the  rivers 
at  the  distance  below,  of  half  a  mile,  seem  to  issue 
from  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  seen  oblique- 
ly, conceals  the  narrow  glens  through  which  the 
waters  work  their  toilsome  way.^ 

*  The  description  given  by  gov.  De  Witt  Clinton,  of  the  Little 
Falls,  will  continue  to  supercede  the  use  of  any  other.  It  is  in« 
deed  a  line  specimen  of  topographical  painting,  and  places  the 
attendant  phenomena  before  the  mind's  eye.  I  had  Dr.  Mitchill's 
notes  on  Cuvier,  into  which  this  description  is  copied,  in  my  hands 
when  passing  this  interesting  cataract,  and  amid  the  wildness 
of  the  scene,  and  in  hearing  of  the  roar  of  the  gushing  waters, 
read  and  felt  the  truth  of  this  excellent  view  of  one  of  the  great 
scenes  that  our  country  presents  to  the  admiring  traveller.  Few 
hi  this  country  but  who  have  often  read  the  respective  works  I 
have  mentioned  in  my  text,  and  have  seen  of  course,  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  Little  falls,  to  which  I  have  alluded.  The  reader 
will  pardon,  however,  its  insertion  from  the  original  work,  in  a 
note  ;  some  may  not  have  read  it,  and  few  who  have,  will  find  ^ 
second  perusal  tedious. 

u  The  Little  Falls  on  the  Mohawk  river,  in  connexion  with  the 
surrounding  country,  exhibit  a  very  interesting  aspect.  As  you 
approach  the  falls  the  river  becomes  narrow  and  deep,  and  you 
pass  through  immense  rocks,  principally  of  granite,  interpersed 
with  limestone.  In  various  places  you  observe  profound  exca- 
vations in  the  rocks  made  by  the  agitation  of  pebbles  in  the 
fissures,  and  in  some  places  the  river  is  not  more  than  twenty 
yards  wide.  As  you  approach  the  western  extremity  of  the  hillsa 
you  find  them  about  half  a  mile  distant  from  summit  to  summit^ 


1ET.  IY* 


XITTXB  FAiLS; 


49 


MILES. 

The  scenery  near  the  Little  Falls,  is  wild  and 
striking.  As  you  approach  this  place,  the  Talley 
of  the  river  seems  to  close,  the  road  approaches  the 
pass  obliquely,  winding  along  the  foot  of  hills 

and  at  least  three  hundred  feet  high.  The  rocks  are  composed 
of  granite,  and  many  of  them  are  thirty  or  forty  feet  thick,  and 
the  whole  mountain  extends  at  least,  half  a  mile  from  east  to  west. 
You  see  them  piled  on  each  other,  like  Ossa  on  Pelion,  and  in 
other  places,  huge  fragments  scattered  about,  indicating  a  violent 
rupture  of  the  waters  through  this  place,  as  if  they  had  been  for- 
merly dammed  up  and  had  formed  a  passage,  and  in  all  directions 
you  behold  great  rocks  exhibiting  rotundities,  points  and  cavi- 
ties, as  if  worn  by  the  violence  of  the  waves,  or  hurled  frpm 
their  ancient  positions. 

"  The  general  appearance  of  the  Little  Falls  indicates  the  for- 
mer existence  of  a  great  lake  above,  connected  with  the  Oneida 
lake ;  and  as  the  waters  forced  a  passage  here  and  receded,  the 
flats  above  were  formed  and  composed  several  thousand  acres  of 
the  richest  land.    Rome  being  the  highest  point  on  the  lake,  the 
passage  of  the  waters  on  the  east  side  left  it  bare ;  the  Oneida 
lake  gradually  receded  on  the  west  side,  and  formed  the  great 
marsh  or  swamp,  now  surrounding  the  waters  on  Wood  creek. 
The  physiognomy  of  the  country  from  the  commencement  of 
Wood  creek  to  its  termination  in  the  Oneida  lake,  confirms  this  hy- 
pothesis. The  westerly  and  north  westerly  winds  continually  drive 
the  sand  of  the  lake  towards  the  creek,  and  you  can  distinctly 
perceive  the  alluvion  increasing  eastward  by  the  accumulation  of 
sand,  and  the  formation  of  new  ground.  Near  the  lake,  you  ob- 
serve sand  without  trees,  then  to  the  east  a  few  scattering  trees  > 
and  as  you  proceed  in  that  direction,  the  woods  thicken.  The 
whole  country  from  the  commencement  to  the  termination  of 
Wood  creek,  looks  like  made  ground.    In  digging  the  canal  in 
Wood  creek,  pine  trees  have  been  found  twelve  feet  deep.  An 
old  boatman  several  years  ago,  said  that  he  had  been  fifty  years 
in  that  employ,  and  that  the  Oneida  lake  had  receded  half  a  mile 
within  his  memory.    William  Colbreath,  one  of  the  first  settlers 
at  Rome,  in  digging  a  well,  found  a  large  tree  at  the  depth  of 
twelve  feet.    This  great  lake,  breaking  down  in  the  first  place, 
the  barriers  which  opposed  the  progress  of  its  waters  to  the  east, 
and  then  gradually  receding  to  the  west,  is  a  subject  well  deserv- 
ing of  minute  investigation." — Clinton's  Introductory  Discourse, 
page  52. 

Since  my  return  to  the  city  of  New-York,  I  had  the  pleasure  1 
p{  meeting  there?  with  Mr.  Isaac  Briggs,  who  is  mentioned  in  this 


*0 


IITTLE  FALLS. 


[LET  rt* 


MIES. 

—81  covered  with  enormous  sugar  maples  whose  rougli 
boughs  hang  over  the  heart  of  the  passenger.  An 
elegant  white  tavern  house  stands  near  the  en- 
trance into  the  narrow  glen  below  the  cataract. 
After  passing  the  house  a  few  yards,  the  road  turns 
suddenly  to  the  right,  and  scenes  of  grandeur  suc- 
ceed each  other  in  rapid  review.  The  huge  un- 
shapen  fragments  of  granite  and  other  rocks,  lie 
disrupted  in  an  infinity  of  positions,  interspersed 
and  overgrown  with  sugar  maple,  elm,  hemlock, 
oak,  pine,  and  other  trees.    Toiling  about  half  a 

eorrrespondence  as  one  of  the  gentlemen-  employed  under  the 
authority  of  the  state  of  -New-York,  as  an  engineer  on  the  grand 
canal.  Mr.  Briggs  in  the  execution  of  his  official  duty,  has  mea- 
sured and  levelled  the  Mohawk  river  and  its  banks  from  Rome  to 
the  Little  Falls,  and  who  had  the  goodness  to  give  me  the  follow- 
ing measurements  of  the  hills  adjacent  to  the  Little  Falls. 

Falls-hill,  where  the  road  (pn  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk.) 
passes  it,  is  518  feet  higher  than  our  level  above  the  falls;  5TLi 
feet  higher  than  our  level  two  miles  below  the  fails  5  473  feet 
higher  than  Rome  level  \  and  323  feet  higher  than  the  surface  of 
lake  Erie, 

This  admeasurement  shews,  that  the  present  level  above  the 
Falls  is  only  forty-five  feet  different  from  the  level  of  Rome.  Of 
course,  if  the  time  ever  existed  when  the  water  at  the  Falls  was 
more  than  forty-five  feet  above  its  present  level,  then  did  a  lake  ex- 
tend to  the  present  Oneida,  making  the  whole  one  sheet  of  water. 
The  most  incontestable  proofs  remain  upon  the  rocks,  in  and 
near  the  present  fall,  that  the  water  once  flowed  more  than  fifty 
feet  higher  than  it  does  now.  What  revolutions  !  what  sudden 
and.gradual  changes  have  wrought  their  effects  upon  the  crust  of 
our  planet !  what  we  now  see  of  the  surface  of  our  globe  is  almost 
composed  of  water,  or  of  broken  fragments  torn  by  violence  from 
their  pristine  position,  at  times  beyond  our  records,  and  in  many 
instances,  by  means  that  elude  our  research 

To  pursue  the  investigation  of  these  changes,  is  not  always  an 
idle  application,  as  in  the  instance  before  us,  where  the  examina- 
tion of  the  phenomena  enables  us  to  form  rational  opinions  upon, 
how  far  we  can  effect  beneficial  improvements  upon  the  now  exis- 
tent waters  in  this  singular  region.  A  region  where  rivers  appear 
in  many  instances  in  their  youth. 


XET.  IV.] 


JLITTLE  FAliIiSf 


51 


WHILES, 

—-81  mile,  you  first  hear  the  din  and  (hen  approach 
within  sight  of  the  foaming  stirge,  tu  hi:  with 
irresistible  violence  over  its  rocky  bed.  From  the 
foot  of  the  falls,  the  road  winds  its  tortuous  way  up 
the  steep  ascent,  and  in  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile* 
brings  the  traveller  to  a  beautiful,  well  built  vil- 
lage. Here  every  feeling  of  taste  meets  a  rich 
repast ;  so  many,  so  variant,  and  so  striking  are 
the  objects  which  the  hand  of  nature  and  art,  have 
here  engrouped  in  one  prospect.  The  rock  in 
thousands  of  forms,  trees  and  shrubs  rising  from 
their  interstices.  The  white  surge  of  the  falling 
waters ;  beyond  which  is  seen  the  smooth  surface 
of  the  Mohawk,  whose  placid  stream  advances 
slow  and  silent  to  the  scene  of  tumult  below.  Still 
farther  to  the  south-west,  opens  the  fine  expansion 
s&f  the  German  flats,  chequered  with  all  the  de- 
corations of  field,  orchard,  meadow,  houses  and 
copses  of  wood.  The  clear  blue  heaven  and  fleecy 
clouds  form  the  back  ground  of  this  delightful 
landscape.  A  landscape  the  traveller  can  enjoy 
from  the  windows  of  an  excellent  inn,  which  stands 
.  in  the  romantic  village  which  raises  its  well  built 
houses  between  the  almost  perpendicular  crags  on 
one  side,  and  the  struggling  stream  on  the  other. 
The  marks  are  numerous  and  manifest  of  an  ante- 
rior and  much  greater  elevation  of  the  water  than 
found  there  at  present.  Many  of  the  rocks  are 
perforated  with  round  holes,  made  by  the  rotation 
of  pebbles  in  a  running  stream.  Those  rocks  are 
often  of  immense  size,  and  placed  where  they  have 
lain  for  countless  ages.  These  imprinted  evi- 
dences of  geological  revolution,  evince  a  slovv  and 
gradual,  not  a  sudden  or  violent  change.  The  op- 
posing hills  seem  as  if  sawn  asunder  by  the  pei*- 


GERMAN  FLATS. 


[.IiET»  IV, 


MILES. 

—81  petual  abrasion  of  the  water.  No  farther  altera- 
tion of  consequence  can  take  place  in  future,  as  the 
bed  of  the  river  is  worn  down  to  a  level  with  the 
bottom  of  the  ancient  decumbent  lake. 

Fassing  above  the  falls,  the  road  follows  the 
bank  of  the  river,  from  which  the  adjacent  hills 
rise  by  a  very  steep  ascent.  Prominences  pro- 
trude themselves  frequently  to  the  margin  of  the 
w  ater,  and  force  the  course  of  the  road  to  rise  to 
considerable  elevation,  giving  reiterated  opportu- 
nities to  enjoy  the  prospect  of  the  truly  rich  coun- 
try, known  by  the  name  of  the  German  flats.  This 
region  takes  it  name  from  the  circumstance  of  the 
first  civilized  emigrants  being  Germans.  Upon  no 
part  of  the  United  States  have  the  inhabitants  suf- 
fered more  from  that  murderous  border  warfare, 
instigated  by  whites,  and  pursued  by  savages,  than 
did  the  early  settlers  on  the  now  smiling  German 
flats.  For  a  long  period  of  time  after  the  settle 
tlements  made  by  the  French  in  Canada,  and  by 
the  English  and  Dutch  upon  the  Atlantic  coast ;  the 
Mohawk  and  Oswego  rivers,  formed  the  line  of 
eruptive  communication,  and  blood  marked  its  va- 
rious points.^  The  aged  yet  remember,  and  re-? 
count  with  a  melancholy  recollection,  many  of 
those  tragical  scenes.  Time  has  changed  the 
drama,  the  rage  of  war  has  subsided,  the  savages 
have  perished  or  dwindled  to  a  wretched  remnant. 
Towns,  villages,  churches,  schools,  and  farm 
bouses,  now  adorn  this  once  dreary  waste.  The 
cultivated  mind  may  shed  a  tear  upon  the  horrors 
of  the  past,  but  a  tear  like  rain  drops  in  the  beams 

*  Some  of  the  horrors  of  this  long  chain  of  sanguinary  events^ 
will  be  noticed  in  the  sequel  of  this  treatise. 


£ET.  IV.] 


WEST  CANADA  CHEEK, 


53 


MILES. 

— 81  of  the  sun.  A  review  of  the  present  must  be  de- 
lightful to  every  generous  and  feeling  heart.  It  is 
a  picture  on  which  is  traced,  the  most  interesting 
revolution  in  the  moral  and  physical  condition  of 
human  nature.  There  is  seen  the  region,  where  a 
few  years  past,  roamed  the  blood  stained  sayage, 
and  where  now  dwells  in  peace  and  plenty  the 
civilized  man.  "Where  in  times  remote,  stood  an 
expansive  lake,  and  where  now  bloom  the  most  lux- 
uriant harvests.  Spring  had  made  but  little  ad- 
vance, at  the  time  I  passed  this  remarkable  place  $ 
I  amused  my  fancy  in  contemplating  what  it  would 
exhibit  when  decked  in  all  the  gaiety  of  the  vernal 
season,  or  when  the  fields  and  meadows  were 
clothed  in  the  rich  garb  of  summer.  Lost  in  this 
pleasing  reverie,  time  past  unheaded  until  my  re- 
collection was  aroused  by  finding  myself  at  the 
mouth  of 
7—86    West  Canada  creek. 

From  the  projecting  hill  below  this  creek,  a  very 
comprehensive  view  is  afforded  of  both  the  German 
and  Herkimer  flats.  These  expansive  bottoms  are 
in  fact,  the  same  body  of  soil,  being  only  divided 
by  the  Mohawk  river,  winding  from  the  hills  on 
its  south,  to  those  on  its  north  side.  West  Canada 
creek  is  a  stream  of  considerable  magnitude,  rising 
in  a  very  hilly  or  rather  mountainous  country 
which  forms  the  south-west  angle  of  Hamilton 
county.  This  elevated  tract  is  the  continuation  of 
the  same  ridge  that  crosses  the  Mohawk  at,  and 
forms  the  Little  Falls,  and  which  gives  rise  in  the 
same  neighborhood  to  the  two  Canadas,  and  to  the 
Sacondago  branch  of  the  Hudson.  West  Canada^ 
like  its  namesake,  falls  impetuously  in  almost  all 
its  course.   Its  higher  branches  flow  westwardly 


54.  VJIX^GE  OF  HERKIMER.  JLET.  IV.] 

MILES. 

— S6  about  twenty  miles,  unite  and  enter  Herkimer,  and 
bending  abruptly  south,  wind  through  the  latter 
county  twenty  more  miles,  and  is  then  lost  in  the  Mo- 
hawk. The  spring  floods  of  (hose  short  mountain 
streams,  are  terrible.  A  fine  wooden  bridge  for- 
merly crossed  West  Canada  near  its  mouth,  but  the 
♦  freshet  of  last  winter  carried  it  away  ;  the  inhabi- 
'  tants  are  now  erecting  another,  which  will  be,  no 
doubt,  completed  in  the  course  of  the  ensuing  sum- 
mer. I  passed  the  creek  in  a  skiff,  and  soon  found 
myself  in 

1 — 87    The  village  of  Herkimer.  • 

This  village  stands  upon  an  elevated  but  alluvial 
plain,  composed  of  rounded  pebbles,  sand  and  clay. 
It  occupies  the  central  part  of  the  flats  of  the  same 
name.  The  neighboring  country  is  well  cultivated, 
the  soil  exuberantly  fertile,  and  the  improvements 
exhibit  an  air  of  wealth  and  industry*  The  Herki- 
mer flats  do  not  appear  to  be  so  tamely  level  as  those 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Mohawk.  In  point  of 
timber,  they  present  one  general  character  j  sugar 
tree,  elm,  white  walnut  or  butternut,  prevails  upon 
the  bottoms  near  the  streams ;  on  the  hills  or  ele- 
vated slopes  are  found  oak,  hemlock,  linden,  (bass- 
wood)  sugar  maple,  elm,  ash,  and  hickory.  Of 
oak,  ash,  and  hickory,  several  species  of  each  oc- 
cur. 

I  remained  but  a  short  time  in  the  village  of 
Herkimer,  set  out,  and  after  passing  the  small  and 

S— 93  unimportant  village of  Schuyler,  found  myself  about 
four  in  the  afternoon  in 

8_t0i  Uliea. 

The  plain  of  the  Herkimer  flats  continues  from  that  vil- 
lage to  Schuyler,  where  the  road  rises  upon  higher  but  still 
level  land.    The  slope  is  here  on  the  north  side.    Some  part 


LET.  IV- j 


UTICA 


S3 


of  (he  country  is  not  very  well  improved*  More  wood  land 
remains  here  than  I  had  seen  any  where  else  since  leaving 
Schenectady.  This  character  however  changes  in  approach- 
ing the  city  of  Utica,  whose  vicinity  exhibits  a  well  cultivat- 
ed and  wealthy  neighborhood.  The  whole  country  presents 
marks  of  not  very  ancient  submersion.  The  super-stratum 
is  every  where  sand,  loam  and  rounded  pebbles  ;  the  materi- 
als in  various  degrees  of  respective  prevalence  and  commix- 
ture $  the  whole  affording  in  many  places  a  soil  of  extraor- 
dinary fertility. 

Utica  is  approached  from  the  north,  in  part  by  a  very  bad 
road,  and  in  part  by  a  very  good  causeway.  The  latter  is 
about  a  mile  in  length,  but  does  not  cross  the  level  alluvial 
flats  of  the  Mohawk.  The  residue  of  the  road,  was,  when  I 
passed  it,  in  a  wretched  condition. 

Utiea  occupies  the  site  of  old  fort  Schuyler,  and  stands 
upon  the  right  or  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk  river,  in  Oneida 
county,  and  in  north  latitude  4.3°  06.  The  site  of  this  town 
is  a  gentle  ascent,  not  exceeding  two  degrees,  if  so  much. 
The  opposite  bank  of  the  Mohawk  is  for  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  a  perfect  unbroken  plain.  The  town  stands  at  the  low- 
est depression  of  the  ancient  basin.  The  adjacent  country 
rises  so  imperceptibly  that  no  elevation  of  consequence  is 
perceivable  from  the  streets.  Few  trees  are  visible  except 
Hemlock  and  sugar  maple.  This  town  has  two  banks,  one 
a  branch  of  that  of  Manhattan,  in  the  city  of  New-York,  the 
other  formed  by  the  citizens,  and  incorporated  since  1812. 
Some  very  productive  manufactories  exist  in  this  neighbor- 
hood. The  commerce  of  the  place  appears  flourishing  ;  a 
matter  of  course,  as  Utica  is  a  kind  of  thoroughfare  between 
Albany  and  the  central  and  western  parts  of  the  state  of 
New-York.  The  grand  canal  will  pass  through  this  town* 
and  add  much  to  its  importance  as  a  place  of  business. 

?  The  latitude  1  obtained  in  Utica  from  that  accurate  mathe- 
matician Isaac  Bpjggs,  who  also  gave  me  the  variation  of  th# 
magnetic  needle  there,  4®  19>  W. 


£6 


UTICA. 


[LET.  T. 


Utica  contains  at  this  time  near  3000  inhabitants,  between 
4  and  500  houses,  with  stores,  taverns,  book  stores,  and 
other  appendages  of  a  flourishing  country  town.  Here  roads 
diverge  in  all  directions  ;  down  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk 
to  Schenectady  j  westward  to  Auburn,  Geneva,  Canandai- 
gua,  Batavia,  and  Buffalo ;  southward  towards  the  valleys 
ef  the  Delaware  and  Susquehannah  rivers  $  and  northward 
to  Sacket's  Harbor. 

The  day  I  write  is  heavy  and  threatens  rain.  The  stage 
does  not  leave  this  town  until  to-morrow  ;  I  shall  however 
trust  the  weather  and  ray  feet,  and  set  out  as  usual,  with  my 
cane  in  one  hand  and  my  tablets  in  the  other.  You  will  not 
again  hear  from  me  before  I  reach  Sacket's  Harbor ;  in  the 
mean  time,  though  I  am  daily  advancing  farther  from  home? 
I  am  not  the  less  sincerely, 

Dear  Sir, 

Y&iir  devoted  friend* 


LETTER  Y. 

Sachet9 s  Harbor,  May  12th,  1818* 

l>EAR  SlRj 

Drenched  to  thfc  skin,  I  arrived  here  yesterday  evert- 
ing, at  10  P.  M.  Enclosed  you  have  a  transcript  of  ray  jour- 
nal from  Utica  to  this  town.  I  was  fortunately  favored  with 
good  weather  the  greatest  part  of  the  way,  and  only  had  & 
heavy  rain  to  close  my  journey  hither. 

MIXES. 

1         From  Utica  to  tro$s-roads. 
1 — 2     Road  to  Rome, 

Leaves  that  which  leads  towards  Sacket's  Har- 
bor j  the  latter  now  assumes  its  north-west  course* 


LET.  V.] 


ROAD  FROM  ITTICA. 


MILES. 

1 — 3  JVorthrop's. 

After  leaving  tllica  and  proceeding  as  Far  as  the 
cross  roads,  I  had  the  fortune  by  carelessness  or 
some  other  cause  to  take  a  wrong  road,  and  wan- 
dered to  the  northward  about  two  miles,  but  find- 
ing my  error  I  with  some  trouble  regained  nsy  in- 
tended road.  I  found  the  country  rising  more  ra- 
pidly than  I  anticipated.  A  small  creek  which 
rises  in  the  high  ground  north  of  UCiea,  and  which 
enters  the  Mohawk  river  nearly  opposite  that 
town,  has  cut  so  deep  a  ravine  in  the  yielding  ma- 
terials through  which  it  flows,  as  to  be  passed  with 
difficulty,  I  strayed  to  the  east  of  this  creek,  and 
was  forced  to  return  to  the  cross  roads  to  regain 
my  way. 

Above  North  rop's  the  road  ascends  in  some  pla- 
ces gently  and  others  abruptly,  along  the  acclivity 
of  the  hills.  I  frequently  turned  to  enjoy  the 
prospect  behind  me,  which  though  interrupted  by 
the  woods,  was  exposed  at  intervals  by  the  farms 
which  have  been  cleared  near  the  road.  As  I  ap- 
proached the  summit  I  found  the  ascent  more  rapid, 
and  the  adjacent  land  more  free  from  timber,  con- 
sequently the  prospect  expanded  at  every  step  ;  and 
on  the  extreme  brow  a  large  farm  exposed  to  full 
view  the  city  of  Utica,  the  vicinity,  and  the  valley 
of  the  Mohawk  to  the  farthest  limit  of  vision. 
The  eye  has  a  range  of  more  than  thirty  miles 
«ast,  south  and  southwest.  Utica,  though  five 
miles  distant,  seemed  to  lie  at  my  feet.  As  I  stood 
and  gazed  upon  this  noble  prospect,  I  could  not 
avoid  exclaiming  mentally  «  that  I  had  seen  many 
u  more  sublime  views,  many  more  grand,  but  not 

one  had  ever  before  met  my  eye,  that  so  com- 
u  pletely  answered  to  my  conceptions,  of  the  truly 
P 


1WAB  FKOM  UTICA. 


[let.  v. 


MIXES. 

f — 3  h  soft  and  beautiful  in  landscape."  Certainly  I 
had  more  than  a  thousand  farms  spread  before  me, 
main  hundreds  could  be  seen  at  one  glance.  Those 
war  were  seen  most  distinctly,  whilst  those  more 
remote  gradually  diminished  in  size,  and  became, 
from  increased  distance,  less  distinct,  until,  like 
the  vast  inclined  plane  upon  which  they  stood,  they 
were  finally  lost  upon  the  verge  of  the  distant  iky* 

That  mind  must  be  void  of  the  least  sympathies 
of  human  nature,  who  could  behold  this  fine  pros- 
pect, without  feeling  a  strong  sensation  of  pleas- 
ure. Gratifying  indeed  must  be  the  reflection 
upon  the  sum  of  domestic  peace,  plenty,  affection* 
and  comfort,  enjoyed  within  its  limits, 

3—0      Tavern  upon  the  table  land  of  the  MIL 

% — 8         do.    rqion  Vac  bottom  northward  of  the  hill. 

1 — -9      Carvers  tavern  irpon  nine  mile  run,  Jloxcing  soullt- 
west  into  the  Mohawk. 

i— 13    Vilmge  of  Trent  on. 

Thus  far  I  proceeded  the  same  evening  I  left 
Utiea,  and  found  myself  very  well  disposed  to  rest, 
after  a  walk  of  seventeen  miles,  including  the  di- 
rect distance,  my  error  and  its  remedy,  in  my  out- 
set from  Utica. 

Between  Utica  and  Trenton  I  found  four  varie- 
ties of  soil  and  timber.  Upon  the  Mohawk  flats 
exist  a  deep  black  alluvial  loam,  with  a  slight  in- 
termixture of  pebble.  As  the  different  banks  rise, 
pebble  becomes  more  plentiful  and  decumbent,  in 
relation  to  the  other  materials  of  the  soil.  The 
timber  upon  the  alluvial,  as  also  upon  the  contigu- 
ous banks,  is  composed  of  hemlock,  beech,  sugar, 
maple  and  elm,  with  rare  examples  of  other  trees. 
The  productive  quality  of  the  alluvial  soil  is  very 
strong*,  that  of  the  contiguous  slopes  but  little  in- 


.LET.  V.] 


YXCE  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


MIXES. 

— 13  ferior.  The  latter  species  of  land  more  spungy 
and  wet  than  the  former,  though  the  contrary 
would  appear  from  relative  position.  The  general 
crop  in  this  section  of  the  state  of  New-York,  ap- 
pears (o  1x3  maize,  wheat,  rye,  oats,  and  meadow 
grass.  Fruit  trees  suitable  to  the  climate,  such  as 
apples,  pears,  plumbs  and  cherries,  appear  plenti- 
ful. Peach  trees  cannot  here  endure  the  severity 
of  winter  -cold. 

Rising  above  the  alluvion  and  contiguous  banks, 
appears  the  second  species  of  soil  ;  tliis  latter  va- 
riety of  land  it  called  in  the  colonial  language  of 
the  country  interval  land.  This  soil  is,  as  f  have 
already  observed,  more  spungy  than  that  of  the 
alluvion,  and  certainly  much  less  productive.  I 
-ought,  however,  to  premise  that  unusual  rains  had 
preceded  my  visit  to  this  country^  and  that  many 
places  appeared  'then  wet  and  even  inundated? 
which  would  not  be  subject  to  similar  inconven- 
ience in  a  more  moderate  season.  The  water  left 
on  the  ground  by  recent  rains,  could  not  neverthe- 
less, destroy  the  means  of  forming  a  correct  com- 
parative estimate.  From  a  greater  slope,  every 
other  circumstance  equal,  Hie  interval  land  ought 
to  be  less  moist  than  the  alluvion,  the  contrary  is, 
■as  I  have  observed  the  fact.  The  varieties  of 
timber  upon  the  interval,  does  not  materially  dif- 
fer from  those  upon  the  alluvial  land,  except  black 
Inreh  (befula  nigra)  which  is  more  abundant  upon 
the  former  than  upon  the  latter  soil. 

Ascending  towards  the  summit  of  the  hills,  and 
before  gaining  the  apex,  I  found  deep  ruts  made 
m  the  wash  of  the  road,  the  sides  of  which  laid 
!>are  projections  of  secondary  mica  slate.  lying  in 


60 


FACE  OF  TUB  COUNTRY. 


[let.  >. 


MIXES. 

— 13     its  original  position  ;  forming  the  the  third  variety 
of  soil. 

Though  apparently  productive  as  the  interval 
tract,  this  slate  region  must,  from  its  greater  ele- 
vation, be  more  subject  to  early  and  late  frost,  than 
either  of  the  two  preceding  varieties  of  land. 
Farms  of  great  extent  are  open  upon  each  section. 
The  highest  summit  of  the  hill  where  the  road  pas- 
ses is  cleared  land,  and  affords  to  the  traveller  a 
convenient  opportunity  of  reviewing  the  vast  ex- 
panse around  Utica. 

Upon  the  table  land  above  the  miqa  slate,  now 
repose  immense  bodies  of  rounded  granite  and  bas- 
altic pebble.  The  present  respective  position  of 
these  rocks,  are  so  different  from  that  assigned 
them  by  geologists,  and  the  difficulty  of  accounting 
from  any  know  n  operation  of  nature,  for  the  trans 
portal  ion  to  such  distance  from  their  primitive  beds, 
and  elevation  to  such  heights  of  blocks  of  granite 
and  basalt,  often  eight  or  ten  feet  diameter,  that 
the  task  of  accounting  for  existent  phenomena 
must  be  left  by  me,  to  those  better  qualified,  or 
more  disposed  to  enter  into  the  disquisition.  I  can 
only  observe,  that  the  schist  or  slate  demonstrably 
reposes  in  its  primitive  position  ;  whilst  the  incum- 
bent pebbles,  enormous  as  they  are,  have  evidently 
been  forced  into  their  present  state,  by  the  agency 
of  some  fluid.  Water,  as  that  body  now  operates 
in  either  of  its  known  states  of  ice  or  fluidity, 
could  never  preserve  in  motion,  consequently 
transport  one  of  the  blocks  I  have  seen  to  any, 
even  the  smallest  distance,  much  less  cover  an  im- 
meose  surface  with  these  rounded  masses,  which 
exhibit  all  sizes,  from  a  grain  of  sand  to  bodies  of 
more  (Iran  twenty  feet  diameter.    This  with  many 


LET.  V.] 


FACE  OF  THE  COUNTRY, 


MILES. 

—13  other  phenomena  I  have  seen,  induces  me  to  believe 
that  an  order  of  things  once,  and  for  a  great  length 
of  time,  existed  upon  this  planet,  producing  effects 
that  remain  when  their  causes  have  ceased  to  ope- 
rate, perhaps  forever. 

Upon  the  table  land,  sugar  maple  ceases  almost 
entirely,  though  so  very  abundant  upon  the  alluvi- 
al, interval,  and  even  upon  (he  schistose  tract. 
The  black  birch  commences  a  shrub  near  the  Mo- 
hawk river,  but  when  elevated  upon  the  table  tend, 
assumes  the  size  and  majesty  of  a  forest  tree  of  the 
firsi  ^ ^n;tu(je     Beech  on  the  contrary,  a  stately 
tree  on  the  io„  woim(is>  dwindles  in  mounting  to 
a  more  alpine  air,  arm  mwn  the  table  land  is  PaW5j? 
and  of  stinted  growth.    Elm        hemlock  forms 
the  mass  of  the  forest  upon  the  table  kino. 

Either  from  the  flatness  of  the  land  or  from* 
some  other  cause,  the  table  land  is  extremely 
swampy,  and  of  course  inconvenient  to  cultivate  : 
it  is  here  narrow,  not  exceeding  a  mile  in  width. 

Upon  the  northern  brow  fcf  the  hill,  a  prospect 
expands  of  little  less  dimensions  than  that  seen 
from  its  southern  slope.  The  northern  landscape 
is  less  interesting  than  the  southern  at  this  time,  at 
presenting  only  a  mass  of  woods  with  a  few  open* 
ings  only,  whereas  that  of  the  south  exhibits  an 
immense  surface  of  cultivated  country. 

To  me  this  northern  view  was  highly  pleasing, 
as  it  first  laid  before  me,  upon  its  back  ground,  part 
of  the  basin  of  the  Canadian  sea.  Descending  the 
declivity,  I  gazed  upon  the  blue  verge  before  me 
as  if  I  had  felt  myself  entering  into  a  new  w  orld. 
To  me  this  transition  was  not  illusory.  Though 
upon  the  same  planet,  and  even  upon  the  same 
continent,  the  images  I  now  see  around  me  are  go 
F2 


CvZ  t'TlCA  TO  TXIESTOS*  [LET*  V. 

—13  difierent  from  thos-e  I  baye  been  Tor  a  long  period 
accustomed  to  behold,  that  my  sensations  would 
not  he  much  more  changed  if  i  was  transported  to 
another  world  in  reality. 

I  found  the  surface  of  the  slope  as  I  descended, 
composed  of  clay,  sand,  and  immense  bodies  of 
rounded  pebble.  The  present  state  of  the  interior 
of  North  America,  exhibits  phenomena  at  every 
step,  which  demonstrate  that  water  or  some  oth- 
er fluid  has  flowed  over  the  surface  of  the  land  p " 

dS  been 

a  very  great  length  of  time.    This  fl*»' ' . 

4U         *  r  wi  m   -iie  surface  near 

the  agent  ot  modiiication.  wm' 
,,  t.  A.     uin  a  state  of  subiner- 

the  Canadian  sea  conti^"  _ 

.  Pilule  that  the  lace  of  the  earth 

sion,  it  is  very  s> 

_^*frty  uniform  though  inclining  When 
was  src~-     *  .  . 

„o  waters  retired,  the  drain  occasioned  by  rains 

and  springs,  were  the  commencement  of  our  pre- 
sent rivers,  which  in  the  long  lapse  of  ages,  have 
been  worn  down  to  their  present  level.  Whilst  the 
land  continued  submersed,  fragments  of  granite, 
trap,  and  other  rocks,  may  have  been  disrupted 
from  their  original  beds,  and  gradually  forced  for- 
ward, and  whilst  in  motion  rounded  by  attrition, 
and  finally  deposited  over  more  recent  formations. 
As  the  abrasion  of  the  waters  in  the  new  formed 
rivers  deepened  their  beds,  the  debris  of  primitive 
rocks  became  exposed,  and  rolled  down  in  vast  bo- 
dies along  the  declivities  of  the  hills.  This  latter 
process  is  Use  only  part  of  the  great  geological  re- 
volution,  that  continues  in  operation  ;  the  river 
beds  are  daily  becoming  deeper ;  strata  that  for- 
merly caused  cataracts,  are  many  of  them  com- 
pletely cut  by  the  streams,  and  all  are  yielding  t© 
the  force  of  the  ever  acting  fluid,  that  passes  over 
their  broken  ledges. 


XET.  T.] 


UTICA  TO  TllEXTOxYc 


MILES. 

— 13       After  reaching  (he  base  of  (lie  hill,  on  (lie  side 
opposite  to  (hat  of  Utiea,  commences  a  sanity 
legion,  which  continues  to  Trenton.    Timber  near 
the  latter  village,  hemlock,  beech,  sugar  iiiaple^ 
elm,  ash,  and  black  birch.    Though  much  cleared 
land  appears  near  the  road,  I  saw  but  very  little 
winter  grain  growing  in  the  fields.    Demanding  of 
some  of  the  inhabitants  the  reason,  of  what  ap- 
peared to  me  defective  husbandly,  1  uniformly  re- 
ceived in  reply,  that  the  early  and  unseasonable 
thaws  during  the  winter  and  spring,  destroyed  the 
small  grain.    How  far  the  opinion  of  the  inhabi- 
tants was  founded  on  correct  experience,  or  upon 
bad  farming,  I  cannot  pretend  to  determine,  but 
am  inclined  to  ascribe  the  effect  to  the  latter  cause. 
My  own  opinion  is  formed  from  the  appearance  of 
the  soil  and  timber,  and  from  the  geographical  po- 
sition of  the  country.    Sugar  maple  is  here  so  abun- 
dant, as  to  form  the  principal  article  of  fuel  used 
by  the  inhabitants,  and  affords  them  the  means  of 
manufacturing  a  considerable  quantity  of  sugar, 
an  advantage  the  benefits  of  which,  they  have  but 
partially  realized.    Ever  since  passing  the  Little 
Falls  in  the  Mohawk,  I  have  noticed  the  constant 
decrease  of  every  species  of  oak  in  the  forests  ; 
and  since  passing  Utica,  I  have  had  still  more  rea- 
son to  make  this  remark.    This  circumstance  is  a 
subject  of  regret,  for  many  of  the  most  indispen- 
sable uses  in  domestic  economy  and  agriculture, 
no  known  tree  does  effectually  answer  the  purpo- 
ses of  oak.    Orchards  I  perceive  are  rare,  and 
confined  almost  exclusively  to  the  apple.  Neither 
the  climate  or  soil  can  be  ehargahle  with  this  defi- 
ciency ;  it  can  only  be  accounted  for  in  un pardon 
able  neglect.    The  settlements  are,  in  a  consider* 


L'TJCA  TO  TRENT05. 


[LET.  V» 


MILE5?. 

—13    Lie  pari  recent,  improvements  will  follow  (lie  in- 
crease of  population,  wealth,  and  intelligence.5*- 

*  The  following  is  from  that  very  valuable  citizen  Mr.  Ray  de 
Chaumont,  and  was  published  in  the  Mercantile  Advertiser  of  the 
city  of  New- York,  Nov.  1  ith,  18 18.  It  will  be  seen  that  I  have  the 
honor  to  agree  in  opinion  with  Mr.  Chaumont,  as  to  the  true  rea- 
son why  orchards  are  not  more  frequent  in  the  north-west  part  of 
the  state  of  New- York.  I  do  not  remember  to  have  ever  seen 
condensed  in  so  few  words,  the  various  inducements  to  planting 
and  cultivating  orchards,  as  in  this  short,  appropriate,  and  judi- 
cious address. 

Extract  from  an  Address,  pronounced  before  the  Agricultural 
Society  of  Jefferson  county,  at  their  first  annual  fair,  held  at 
Watertown,  Sept.  29,  .1818— By  J.  Le  Ray  de  Chaumont,  Pres- 
ident of  the  Society. 

"  To  those  who  have  not  been  sparing  enough  of  their  fencing 
wood,  I  would  recommend  the  planting  of  young  hemlock  to 
make  hedges.  I  met  with  such  near  Philadelphia,  on  the  farm  of 
Judge  Peters,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  agriculturalists  of  the 
age,  whose  example  alone  must  have  great  weight. 

"  It  was  for  some  time  doubted  by  many  whether  this  country 
would  ever  become  favorable  to  the  growth  of  fruit  trees.  It  is 
true,  that  in  man)  places,  the  first  attempts  were  rather  unsuc- 
cessful; but  as  those  of  a  later  date  have  proved  more  fortunate,  I 
believe  that  all  are  convinced  this  early  failure  was  owing  to  some 
temporary  cause.  Perhaps  it  might  have  been  found  in  the  na- 
ture of  that  part  of  the  soil  that  lay  quite  at  the  surface.  Gene- 
rally, to  the  depth  of  from  6  to  10  inches,  it  is  a  black  mould 
made  by  the  annual  decomposition  of  the  leaves  of  trees  and 
small  vegetables.  This  mould  may  be  too  highly  charged  with 
vegetable  matter  to  afford  nourishment  to  fruit  trees.  At  any 
rate,  it  has  been  noticed  by  many,  that  though  orchards  have 
been  planted  on  such  land,  and  totally  failed,  yet  a  new  attempt 
upon  the  same  land,  after  ploughing  several  years  and  warming 
it  with  animal  manure,  has  been  completely  successful.  Let 
this  be  as  it  may,  it  is  now  well  ascertained  that  few  countries  in 
the  world  are  more  congenial  to  the  growth  of  the  apple,  the 
plumb,  many  species  of  the  cherry,  and  most  of  the  smaller  froits^ 
such  as  the  strawberry,  raspberry,  and  currant,  which  are  found 
to  grow  luxuriantly,  producing  in  the  greatest  abundance.  It  is 
much  to  be  regretted  that  so  many  have  neglected  this  subject^ 
>\uce  the  results  of  late  experiments  must  have  effectually  re- 
moved every  doubt  as  to  the  success  of  future  attempts.  The 
expense  of  planting  an  orchard  is  trivial,  compared  with  its  ad- 


TjET.  v. 


1JTICA  TO  TRENTON, 


65 


MILES. 

4 — 17  Remsen, 

A  village  in  (lie  right  bank  of  West  Canada 
creek. 

2—  19    L.  Hough's. 

3—  22    T.  M.  tiheldons. 
1 — 23  Ilalman's. 

3 — 26  llaivleifs. 
1 — 27  Skinner's. 

I — 31    JBoonvilie  upon  lite  head  streams  of  Black  river, 


vantages,  considering  it  merely  as  a  source  of  profit.  But  the 
comfortable  luxury  it  affords  is  of  itself  a  sufficient  inducement; 
and  I  might  further  add,  if  necessary,  that  a  man  of  spirit  would 
draw  encouragement  from  the  circumstance,  that  a  good  orchard 
is  the  ornament  of  a  farm,  and  gives  the  stranger  a  favorable 
opinion  of  the  wealth,  taste,  comfort  and  economy  of  the  owner, 
while  on  the  contrary,  the  sight  of  a  farm  destitute  of  these  use- 
ful improvements,  gives  him  the  idea  of  barrenness  and  indolence. 
Those  who  have  neglected  the  planting  of  fruit  trees  would  do 
well  to  visit  some  of  the  flourishing  orchards  at  a  small  distance 
from  this  village.  There  they  would  receive  a  lively  reproof  for 
the  past,  and  great  encouragement  for  amending  in  future.  Some 
will  regret  that  the  owners  of  those  fine  orchards  have  not  extend- 
ed their  industry  to  the  cultivation  of  peach  trees.  Why  would 
they  not  grow  here,  when  many  years  ago  a  number  of  those 
fruits  arrived  to  their  due  maturity  in  one  of  the  most  northern 
positions  in  this  country,  at  the  old  ferry  upon  the  St  Lawrence? 
But  I  must  give  place  to  a  judicious  observation  made  by  an  ex- 
perienced gardener  lately  come  into  this  country.  We  do  not 
let  the  the  roots  of  our  fruit  trees  have  a  sufficient  share  of  cold 
in  the  winter.  Sometimes,  before  the  ground  is  sufficiently  froz- 
en to  reach  the  most  nutritive  roots  of  our  fruits  trees,  the  snow 
falls,  and  communicates  genial  warmth  to  the  earth,  which,  ac- 
companied with  the  melting  snow,  starts  the  vegetation  too  early. 
Then  come  the  late  frosts,  which  finding  the  trees  too  far  ad- 
vanced, give  them  a  check  fatal  to  their  production.  The  reme- 
dy offered  is  to  take  away  in  the  early  part  of  the  winter,  the 
snow  which  surrounds  the  more  delicate  of  your  fruit  trees,  the 
one  for  instances  which  produces  the  peach,  so  as  to  let  the  roots 
have  their  share  of  the  cold.  Then  let  the  snow  be  the  cover 
which  will  foster  this  protecting  cold  till  a  period  more  desirable 
for  the  vegetation  of  the  tree." 


66 


BEER  KlVEK. 


[LET.  Y. 


MILES. 

5 —  36    Sugar  vkrr. 

One  of  the  main  branches  of  Black  river,  flow- 
ing with  great  rapidity  to  the  eastward  in  the  main 
stream.  Secondary  limestone,  with  little  admix- 
ture of  shells,  and  extremely  hard,  now  forms  the 
base  of  the  country.  Timber  continues  as  before 
noted.  The  country  is  very  hilly  and  broken.  Black 
river  is  in  every  respect  a  mountain  stream  ;  the 
tributary  waters  which  form  it  flow  on  each  side 
from  very  elevated  land,  when  compared  with  the 
bed  of  the  principal  river.  Hills  rising  very  abruptly 
range  along  to  the  west  of  the  road,  and  now  at 
near  the  middle  of  May,  are  pouring  down  floods 
formed  by  melting  snow,  masses  of  which  are  fre- 
quently visible  from  the  road,  reminding  the  trav- 
eller that  the  chill  of  winter  is  not  passed. 
2 — 38    Village  of  Ley  den. 

2 —  40    Ley  den  Post  Office. 

6 —  16  House's. 

3 —  49    Gulf  creel:,  a  large  branch  of  Black  river. 

2 — 51  Martinsourg,  seat  of  justice,  in  and  for  Lewis* 
county.  Here  I  remained  over  night,  and  on  the 
morning  of  May  12th,  recommenced  my  journey. 

4 —  55  Louville. 
<j_64  Wright's. 
1—65    Deer  river , 

A  considerable  and  extremely  rapid  branch  of 
Black  river.  Its  banks  and  bed  schistose  lime, 
stone,  a  ledge  of  which  forms  a  beautiful  cascade 
within  fifty  yards  above  the  road,  which  passes  the 
stream  at  this  place  over  a  good  substantial  wood- 
en bridge.  The  river  has  worn  a  deep  channel 
whose  banks  arc  nearly  perpendicular.  Deer  river 
has  its  source  in  the  same  ridge  of  hills,  which  pro- 
duces Salmon  river.  The  very  considerable  falls 
which  occur  in  both  streams,  prove  the  great  el©- 


<JjET.  T.] 


WATETlTOWtf. 


67 


MILES. 

—6b  vation  of  (heir  sources.  Salmon  river  rises,  partly 
in  Lewis  and  partly  in  Oswego  county  ;  its  general 
course  is,  however,  w  *W  latter,  running  west 
thirty  r^i*-3,  enters  Mexico  Bay  of  lake  Ontario, 
nventy-Gve  miles,  a  little  west  of  south,  from  Sack* 
el's  Harbour.  Beside  a  number  o-f  cataracts  of  less- 
er note,  this  short  river  has  in  one  instance,  a  fall  of 
upwards  of  one  hundred  feet. 

■1—66    T.  CampbeWs. 

3 — 69    Champion  Village, 

6 — 75    Village  of  Rutland,  Tn! lie's  tavern. 

This  village  stands  upon  a  bed  of  schistose 
limestone,  at  the  foot  of  a  very  high  and  steep  hill. 
The  limestone  in  many  places  with  a  very  slight 
covering.  Rising  the  hill  above  the  village,  I  had 
the  pleasure  to  behold  an  extensive  prospect  back- 
wards over  the  country  towards  Utica.  Between 
Rutland  and  Watertown,  Black  river  has  a  large 
bend  or  sweep  to  the  northeast,  and  a  circumstance 
worthy  of  note,  is,  that  both  branches  of  the  Os- 
wegatchie  have  similar  and  correspondent  bends. 
This  adds  another  to  the  numerous  proofs  afforded 
by  the  courses  of  our  rivers,  that  in  their  original 
formation,  they  were  influeneed^in  many  instances,  by 
causes  w  hich  operated  over  extensive  tracts  of  coun- 
try, and  produced  a  uniformity  w  hich  strikes  forcibly 
attentive  observers,  upon  our  geological  phenomena. 

o  — 8 1    Watertow  n . 

A  fine  newly  built  village,  on  the  right  hank  of 
Black  river,  in  Jefferson  county.  A  very  visible 
change  is  now  apparent  in  the  soil  and  timber,  and 
surface  of  (he  country.  From  Utica  to  Deer  river, 
hemlock  swamps  are  frequent,  much  of  the  road  pass- 
es  these  swamps,  on  causeways  or  round  logs,  pro- 
ducing very  tiresome  and  tedious  travelling.  These 


6$ 


SROWXVILLE. 


[LET.  T. 


MIXES. 

— 81  swamps  become  rare,  since  passing  Deer  river, 
and  before  reaching  Watertown  entirely  cease. 
Oak  and  hickory  now  intermixes  with  the  other 
species  of  timber  trees  <he  composition  of  the 
forests.  Hemlock  has  become  scarce.  rv\ie  SUper„ 
stratum  of  the  soil,  is  a  black  loam,  iaterm>^ 
with  rounded  pebbles,  resting  upon  a  base  of  strata- 
fied  limestone.  Fields  of  small  grain  are  here 
visible  in  every  direction,  and  in  many  places 
where  the  stratum  of  incumbent  soil  above  the 
limestone,  is  so  scanty  as  would  seem  to  preclude 
culture.  Good  thriving  orchards  of  apple  and  pear 
trees  also  abound. 

At  Watertown,  Black  river  has  worn  a  channel 
into  the  solid  limestone  of  forty  or  fifty  feet  in 
depth,  The  river  is  about  sixty  yards  wide,  and 
has  by  far  the  most  rapid  current  of  any  river, 
great  or  small,  that  I  have  ever  seen  ;  it  may, 
indeed,  be  considered  from  its  source  to  its  mouth 
as  a  chain  of  rapids,  interpersed  occasionally  with 
placid  intervals,  which  are  compensated  by  falls, 
of  from  10  to  70  feet  perpendicular.  Black 
river  is,  in  point  of  size,  the  third  stream  whose 
entire  course  is  in  the  state  of  New- York.  The 
quantity  of  water  in  its  current  at  this  season,  is 
no  doubt,  above  the  medium  of  its  volume,  but  at 
all  times  this  stream  must  discharge  a  body  of 
water  greater  than  would  be  expected  from  its 
comparative  length  on  our  maps. 
4—8  5  Brownville. 

Leaving  Watertown,  the  road  crosses  Black  river 
on  a  fine  wooden  bridge,  and  continues  to  Brown- 
ville along  the  bank  of  Black  river,  over  a  bed  of 
limestone,  in  many  places  naked  rock  without  any 
vegetable  earth,  trees  often  standing  upon  the 
smooth  surface  of  the  stone,  and  only  prevented 


LY.T.  V.] 


BUOWNVILLE. 


69 


MILES. 

— -85    from  falling  by  extending  their  roots  between  the 
interstices  of  the  rock. 

About  half  a  mile  below  Watertown,  the  river 
rushes  over  a  rapid  of  more  than  four  hundred  yards 
in  length.  Lined  on  both  banks  by  precipices  of 
limestone,  upon  which,  the  stream  impetuous  as  it 
is,  can  make  but  a  very  slow  impression.  Dashing 
w  ith  apparently  irresistible  force,  the  rage  of  the 
current  is  repelled  by  the  rough  shelving  shores. 
Where  the  road  passes  near  this  cataract,  the  river 
is  one  sheet  of  foam,  presenting  a  scene  of  grandeur 
much  superior  to  what  would  be  commonly  ex- 
pected from  the  supposed  diminutive  volume  of 
water. 

The  village  of  Brownville  is  indebted  for  not 
only  fits  name,  but  its  existence  also,  to  that  dis- 
tinguished American  general,  Jacob  Brown,  who 
has  his  family  residence  within  its  precincts.  The 
village  is  built  upon  the  right  bank  of  Black  river. 
A  cataract  with  a  perpendicular  fall  of  15  or  20 
feet,  opposite  the  village,  has  afforded  a  very  eligi- 
ble site  for  mills,  which  has  been  improved.  A 
substantial  wooden  bridge  has  been  extended  over 
Black  river  above  the  mills.  I  passed  this  place 
in  a  heavy  rain,  and  had  not  so  good  an  opportunity 
of  observing  its  position  as  I  could  have  desired. 
From  all  I  could  perceive,  the  village  and  the  ad- 
jacent country  exhibited  marks  of  prosperity  and 
rapid  improvement. 

Black  river  continues  below  Brownville  its  ordi- 
nary rapidity  for  about  two  miles,  where  it  is  lost 
in  the  head  of  the  former  bay  de  Nivernois,  a  small 
part  of  which  forms  the  well  known  Bucket's  Har- 
bor. 

The  road  after  crossing  Brownville  bridge,  winds 


SACKfeT*S  11AUB0K. 


{IMT.  VI. 


MILES, 

— 35    about  three  miies  down  the  valley  of  Black  river, 
then  rises  upon  the  fiat  table  land,  and  continues 
five  miles  farther  over  a  bed  of  schistose  limestone, 
to  the  village  of 
8—93    Suckers  Harbor. 
At  (he  time  I  travelled  in  this  quarter,  the  public  stage 
stopped  at  Watertown,  and  travellers  were  obliged  to  hire  car- 
riages from  individuals.    My  company  and  myself  were  ahlc 
to  procure  only  open  waggons  ;  and  as  disappointment  or 
any  other  kind  of  misfortune  seldom  comes  unattended,  the 
moment  we  set  out  from  Watertown,  commenced  a  heavv 
and  cold  rain,  which  continued  to  fall  in  torrents  during  our 
journey  of  twelve  miles  to  Saeket's  Harbor,  where  we  ar- 
rived chilly,  wet  and  hungry,  at  a  little  after  9  P.  M.  The 
village  affords  very  good  entertainment,  and  its  cheer  was 
never  much  more  welcome  than  to  the  cavalcade  of  which 
I  made  a  part. 

Yours  sincerely. 


LETTER  VI, 

Backers  Harbor,  May  %2th9  1818, 

Bear  Sir, 

Buownvixle  and  Saeket's  Harbor,  but  particularly 
the  latter,  have  gained  both  in  extent  and  celebrity  by  the 
late  war  with  Great  Britain.  The  residence  of  the  land  and 
naval  forces  of  the  United  States  have  been,  and  continue  to 
be  of  great  advantages  to  the  citizens  of  Sacket's  Harbor. 
This  town  stands  upon  the  south-west  side  of  the  bay,  N.  jat. 


fiET".  VI.] 


SACKET9S  HARBOR. 


71 


43°,  56*.  W.  long.  76°.  from  London,  or  lp.  east  of  Washing- 
ton city.  The  bay  and  harbor  are  both  well  situated  for 
shelter  and  defence.  It  is  in  some  measure,  land  locked  by 
two  large,  and  some  smaller  islands,  standing  in  the  mouth 
of  tlie  bay  eight  miles  distant  to  the  west,  from  the  village* 
Chaumont  bay,  is  an  embranchment  of  the  same  sheet  of 
water  which  forms  the  harbour  below  the  mouth  of  Black 
river.  Chaumont  bay  does  not  contain  as  good  anchorage* 
nor  does  the  position  of  its  shores  render  it  so  favourable  a 
site,  either  as  a  naval,  military,  or  commercial  depot  as  the 
bay,  now  known  as  Saeket's  Harbor.  The  latter  is  perhaps 
one  of  the  best  situations  in  the  world  for  ship  building.  A 
narrow  and  low  crescent  of  land  extends  from  the  lower  ex- 
tremity of  the  village,  and  forms  an  inner  and  outer  harbourf 
the  latter  within  two  fathoms  of  the  shore  has  depth  of  wa- 
ter for  the  largest  ships  of  the  line,  that  can  be  formed.  The 
vessels  can  be  framed  on  nearly  a  level  with  the  water,  and 
launched  with  the  greatest  case.  The  depth  of  water  con- 
tinues to  the  mouth  of  Black  river,  near  which  another  very 
excellent  position  exists  for  the  construction  of  ships,  either 
of  war  or  commerce.  In  each  of  those  places  of  ship  archi- 
tecture, now  lie  the  hull  of  a  first  rate  man  of  war.  One  of 
which,  at  Saeket's,  the  New-Om-eans,  I  have  seen.  Be^ 
fore  seeing  this  enormous  vessel,  1  had  no  idea  of  the  im„ 
rnensity  of  ship  building.  Under  her  stern,  I  really  felt  a 
sentiment  of  awe,  when  by  an  upward  glance,  I  received  the 
wide  sweeping  and  towering  arch  of  her  swelling  sides.  I  had 
seen  the  Franklin  on  the  stocks,  near  Philadelphia,  and  had 
been  frequently  on  board  of  that  vessel  after  she  w  as  launch- 
ed ;  I  had  been  on  board  of  the  Independence  in  the  harbour 
of  Boston  ;  and  had  also  seen  under  sail,  the  British  71, 
Plantagenet.  AH  of  those  ships  are  large  according  to  their 
rate,  but  neither  gave  me  an  adequate  conception  of  the 
immensity  of  a  first  rate  ship  of  the  line,  a  conception  I 
never  formed,  until  I  traversed,  from  prow  to  stern,  the 
New-Orleans.    Sunk  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water,  the 


72 


sacket's  harbor. 


[let  VI, 


hull  of  a  line  of  hatlle  ship  when  launched,  is  concealed, 
leaving  to  view  her  more  shewy,  but  less  substantial  upper 
works,  but  while  on  the  stocks,  the  vastness  of  this  intended 
battery  is  visible. 

The  naval  officers  have  erected  an  immense  frame  building 
over  the  New-Orleans.  Under  the  shelter  of  a  close  roof, 
her  timbers  will  rather  gain  in  quality  than  deteriorate 
by  time.  She  now  stands,  in  silent,  but  in  terrible  prepara- 
tion. A  stair  way  leads  from  her  prow,  to  the  highest  part 
of  her  stern,  ending  in  a  railed  balcony  with  seats,  from 
which  in  one  comprehensive  prospect  is  included,  the  town, 
barracks,  harbour  and  adjacent  shores.  An  ascent  to  this 
singular  observatory >  is  amongst  the  most  interesting  treats 
awaiting  the  traveller  to  Sacket's.  Captain  Woolsey,  the 
commodore  upon  this  station,  exercises  the  most  laudable 
politeness  towards  strangers ;  his  kindness  enabled  me  to 
enjoy  this,  which  is  one  of  the  most  gratifying  pleasures  of 
my  life. 

Very  excellent  stone  barracks  stand  upon  the  bank  of  the 
bay,  about  400  yards  east  of  the  village.  The  material  is  the 
blue  schistose  limestone,  which  forms  the  base  of  the  whole 
adjacent  neighborhood.  The  barracks  are  in  the  form  of 
three  sides  of  a  parallelogram,  enclosing  the  approaches  on 
*he  side  land,  the  face  towards  the  bay  is  open. 

May  lith.  I  had  the  double  pleasure  of  seeing  the  bar- 
racks, and  on  their  parade  a  review  given  in  honor  of  gen. 
Winfieid  Scott.  Gens.  Brown,  Scott,  and  their  suits  were 
present.  The  troops  made  a  very  respectable  appearance, 
though  the  weather  was  unfavorable  for  their  evolutions. 

1  would  have  examined  more  extensively,  the  vicinity  of 
Sacket's  Harbor,  but  the  season  was  so  continually  incle- 
ment during  my  stay,  that  my  excursions  were  necessarily 
very  limited. 

Tours  with  respect  and  esteem. 


t;et.  vii.] 


HAMILTON* 


LETTER  VII. 

Hamilton,  May  19/fc,  1818. 

Dear  Sir, 

I  departed  from  Sachet's  Harbor  on  Saturday  last,  and 
reached  this  neighborhood  on  Sunday  afternoon.  The  weath- 
er during  the  voyage,  and  since  my  arrival,  has  been  very 
unfavorable  for  either  extensive  or  accurate  observation*  I 
found  one  circumstance,  however,  remarkable  ;  the  season  is 
much  more  forward  below  than  above  the  Thousand  Islands. 
From  Sachet's  Harbor  to  the  entrance  into  the  St.  Lawrence, 
the  shores  presented  all  the  desolation  of  winter  ;  the  birch 
was  the  only  forest  tree  (hat  indicated  approaching  spring. 
This  backwardness  continued  until  we  passed  the  Thousand 
Islands;  below  which,  though  advancing  northward,  an  evi- 
dent change  was  visible.  The  sugar  tree,  willow,  birch,  and 
many  shrubs  and  other  vegetables,  were  in  considerable  ad- 
vance. The  fields  on  the  Canada  shore,  from  the  greater 
exposure  to  the  sun,  were  more  advanced  than  those  oppo- 
site, in  New- York. 

I  have  now  seen,  and  navigated  part  of  the  surface  of  the 
two  most  majestic  rivers  of  North  America  ;  and  as  far 
as  I  have  observed,  no  two  streams  on  earth  afford  features 
of  more  marked  contrast.  Before  visiting  i?s  banks,  I  had 
always  considered  the  St.  Lawrence  as  commencing'  oppo- 
site Kingston  ;  but  the  current  is  not  perceptible,  until  whir 
in  about  ten  miles  above  this  village.  In  tti&iiy  places  the 
river,  as  it  is  improperly  called,  is  four  or  five  miles  wide, 
and  chequered  with  islands,  of  infinite  variety  of  shape  and 
size.  In  fact,  it  is  a  continuation  of  Lake  Ontario  ten  or 
twelve  miles  below  Ogdensburg,  where  the  true  St.  Law- 
rence  begins  to  flow. 

On  leaving  Sackct's  Harbor,  the  ad  jacent  shores  of  the 
main,,  and  those  of  the  islands,  are  low,  and  composed  of 

G 


?4 


ItlVEU  ST.  LAWKEACE. 


[LET.  VII. 


what  in  geognostie  language,  is  called  floefz  limestone,  ad- 
mixed with  animal  exuvise.  The  border  of  the  lake  is  uni- 
formly low,  not  being  elevated  above  (be  water  more  than 
three  or  four  feet ;  (he  debris  thrown  up  by  the  action  of  the 
lake,  are  rounded  pebbles  of  limestone,  with  a  very  few 
fragments  of  someolher  kind  of  stone.  The  timber,  sugar 
tree,  pine,  linden,  elm,  oak.  ((wo  or  three  species,  though 
scarce) — birch,  and  beech  ;  soil  extremely  fertile.  When 
at  some  distance  from  the  shore,  the  high  hills  near  the 
source  of  Black  river,  and  between  Utica  and  Oswego,  are 
seen  far  inland. 

This  uniformity  remains  with  but  little  interruption,  until 
the  entrance  of  St.  Lawrence  ;  here  (he  islands  are  many 
of  them  thirty  qr  forty  feet  elevated  above  the  water. — 
What  is  called  the  Thousand  Islands,  seems  to  be  a  gra- 
ttite  chain  w  hich  crosses  the  river,  and  divides  its  bed  into 
a  maze,  intricate  beyond  imagination  ;  a  scene  more  savage, 
rude,  and  wild,  does  not  perhaps  any  where  exist  on  earth. 
The  placid  and  most  purely  limpid  water,  reflects  the  bro- 
ken rocks,  and  the  few  trees  and  shrubs  that  rise  amid 
their  fractured  ruins.  No  human  habitation  appears,  to  en- 
liven for  an  instant  this  picture  of  eternal  waste.  Passing 
this  region  of  silent  desolation,  a  fairy  scene  opens  ;  a  scene 
that  to  me  was  the  more  delightful,  because  unexpected. 
Where  the  Thousand  Islands  terminate,  the  river  opens  first 
into  a  kind  of  bay,  and  then  in  two  or  three  miles  again  con 
tracts  ;  the  shore  rising  on  each  bank  by  a  gentle  acclivity, 
presents  a  country  I  have  never  before  seen  equalled,  in  res- 
pect  either  to  soil  or  situation.  The  Ohio,  beautiful  as  are 
its  banks,  affords  in  all  its  extent,  nothing  comparable  to 
the  banks  of  St.  Lawrence,  from  the  Thousand  Islands  to 
this  place.  The  Canada  side  is  by  far  the  best  cultivated* 
and  as  I  have  already  remarked,  possesses  the  advantages 
of  more  exposure  to  the  sun.  For  many  miles  the  margin 
of  this  river  appears  like  a  well  cultivated  garden.  The 


XET.  VII.] 


HAMILTON. 


American  or  U.  S.  shore,  exhibits  rapid  improvement,  and 
Ogdensburgh  and  this  place  are  flourishing  new  villages. 
J  will  write  you  more  at  large  shorty.  Adieu  for  the  pre- 
sent. 

May  Wlh  1S18. 
After  enclosing  the  within,  and  returning  to  our  camp, 
Major  Frascr  arrived,  in  the  evening*  I  accompanied  him 
to  (his  village  to-day,  and  finding  that  my  letter  was  still  on 
hand,  I  opened  it,  to  convey  to  you  and  Mrs.  Darby,  the  la- 
test news  of  my  proceedings.  Gen.  Porter  is  not  yet  arrived, 
•but  no  doubt  will  in  two  or  three  days.  The  principal  sur- 
veyor on  the  side  of  Great  Britain,  has  not  arrived,  but  is 
hourly  expected.  We  will,  perhaps,  commence  business  on 
the  boundary  line,  in  the  ensuing  week. 

The  season  continues  unpleasant,  and  though  rain  does  not 
fall  in  any  great  quantities,  it  is  frequent.  The  river  St. 
Lawrence  is  about  two  feet  perpendicular  above  its  ordina- 
ry level,  and  slowly  rising,  and  will  no  doubt  fall  as  slowly. 
Notwithstanding,  however,  the  chilly  air  produced  by  sa 
much  moisture,  spring  advances  daily,  and  promises  a  sea 
son  more  pleasant.  The  atmosphere,  and  the  present  state 
of  vegetation,  have  a  remarkable  resemblance  to  similar  phe- 
nomena in  lower  Louisiana,  early  in  March.  From  what  1 
have  seen,  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  June  and  July  are  here, 
as  every  where  else  in  North  America,  the  most  agreeable 
months  in  the  year. 


OOli  E  ft  S  B  V 11  G  H. 


[LET.  VIII. 


LETTER  Vlit. 

Ogdensburgh,  June  28, 1818. 
You  have,  no  doubt,  seen  in  the  public  prints  some  state- 
merits  respecting  a  man  of  the  name  of  Gourlay,  who  is  now 
making  a  political  tour  through  the  Canadas.  The  day  be- 
fore yesterday,  a  township  meeting  w  as  called  directly  oppo- 
site our  camp,  which  terminated  in  a  riot,  in  which  Mr. 
Gourlay  was  severely  beaten.  I  have  not  been  able  to  learn, 
with  any  certainty,  what  object  this  man  has  in  viewr ;  no 
doubt,  however,  but  more  is  meant  than  meets  the  eye.  He 
is  not  long  from  England.  If  any  symptoms  cf  revolutiou 
should  appear  in  these  provinces,  the  exciting  cause  must  be 
in  Europe.  Neither  the  population  or  position  of  the  coun- 
try, are  suited  to  contend  with  the  British  Government^  un- 
less the  other  parts  of  the  empire  were  also  in  a  revolution- 
ary state. 

The  inhabitants  of  Canada  appear  to  be  very  happy  and 
contented  with  their  situation,  and  with  their  government 
generally.  What  they  could  gain  by  a  revolution  in  the 
present  order  of  things,  I  must  confess  I  cannot  compre- 
hend. 

The  commerce  carried  on  upon  the  St.  Lawrence  is  im- 
mensely greater  than  we  in  the  United  States  commonly  be- 
lieve. Hie  single  article  of  lumber  must  employ  very  con- 
siderable numbers.  Rafts  are  passing  almost  constantly. 
Flour  and  many  other  articles  are  exported  to  a  very  great 
amount.  The  entire  line  of  the  Canada  side  of  the  river 
from  Montreal  and  even  from  Quebec,  is  well  peopled  and 
cultivated. 

Since  writing  the  above,  I  have  seen  a  National  Intelligen- 
cer, containing  some  notices  of  Gourlay,  and  explaining 
who  he  is  and  from  whence  he  originated.  The  substance 
of  this  communication  is  no  doubt  true,  and  obliges  me  to 


XET.  VIII.] 


POLITICAL. 


77 


believe  (hat,  as  I  have  before  staled,  (here  is  more  than 
meets  the  eye  in  this  business.  The  magistrates  of  Upper 
Canada  are  much  at  a  loss  to  know  how  they  ought  to  pro- 
ceed.* 

*  This  embarrassment  does  not  seem  to  have  been  removed, 
as  will  be  seen  by  the  following  extracts  from  the  proceedings  of 
the  Colonial  legislature  of  Upper  Canada.  From  the  expressions 
used  by  the  governor  in  his  address,  he  has  viewed  the  operations 
of  Gourlay  as  a  serious  affair;  and  so  it  may  become,  if  any  very 
coercive  remedy  is  applied.  The  governor  and  his  council  ex- 
press respect  for  the  constitutional  right  of  petition,  and  they  are 
correct  in  their  cautionary  proceedings  on  that  subject ;  any  open 
attempt  to  abridge  the  liberty  of  remonstrance  might  lead  to  a 
recurrence  to  the  last  resource  of  the  oppressed.  g  A  law  of  pre- 
vention may  operate  by  inflaming  the  malady  it  will  be  intended 
to  cure. 

Fork,  (TJ.  C.J  Oct.  20.  The  speech  of  the  governor,  sir  Peri- 
grine  Maitland,  on  the  opening  of  the  parliament  of  Upper  Cana- 
da, contains  the  following  paragraph  in  relation  to  the  conven- 
tion : 

"  In  the  course  of  your  investigation  you  will,  I  doubt  not,  feet 
a  just  indignation  at  the  attempt  which  has  been  made  to  excite 
discontent,  and  to  organize  sedition.  Should  it  appear  to  you 
that  a  convention  of  delegates  cannot  exist  without  danger  to  the 
constitution,  in  framing  a  law  of  prevention,  your  dispassionate 
wisdom  will  be  careful  that  it  shall  not  unwarily  trespass  on  that 
sacred  right  of  the  subject  to  seek  a  redress  of  his  grievances  by 
petition.7' 

To  this  passage,  the  legislative  council  made  the  following  re- 

"  We  shall  at  all  times  feel  a  just  indignation  at  every  attempt 
which  may  excite  discontent  or  organize  sedition,  and  if  it  shall 
appear  to  us  that  a  convention  of  delegates  cannot  exist  without 
danger  to  the  constitution,  in  framing  a  law  of  prevention,  we 
will  be  careful  that  this  shall  not,  unwarily,  trespass  on  the  sacred 
right  of  the  subject,  to  seek  a  redress  of  his  grievances  by  peti- 
tion." 

To  the  same  paragraph,  the  commons  house  of  assembly  re- 
ply as  follows : 

"  We  feel  a  just  indignation  at  the  systematic  attempts  that 
have  been  made  to  excite  discontent  and  organize  sedition  in 
this  happy  colony,  whilst  the  usual  and  constitutional  mode  of 
appeal  for  real  or  supposed  grievances  has  ever  been  open  to  the 
people  of  this  province,  never  refused  or  even  appealed  to,  and 

G2 


78 


POLITICAL. 


.LET.   VII  J.. 


My  opportunity  of  observing  either  the  political  or  moral 
situation  of  the  people  of  Canada,  has  been  too  limited  to 
enable  me  to  form  a  very  correct  opinion  upon  their  views  ; 
but  from  all  1  have  seen  or  heard,  I  am  inclined  to  consider, 
that  the  temper  of  the  people  of  Canada  is  much  the  same 
as  that  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  colonies,  which  formed  the 
present  United  States,  previous  to  their  secession  from  the 
parent  stale.    Whilst  Great  Britain,  continues  to  exercise 
moderation  towards  her  colonies  in  Canada,  so  long  her  pow- 
er over  them  will  remain  unimpaired.    Any  exertion  of  au- 
thority, however,  that  will  in  any  manner  compromit  t\m 
rights  of  the  Canadians,  will  dissolve  the  spell,  that  pre 
scriplive  habit  has  formed  between  the  rulers  and  the  ruled. 
The  history  of  Great  Britain  would  hardly  justify  an  ex- 
pectation, that  the  political  proceedings  of  its  government, 
will  be  conducted  prudently,  in  all  cases,  towards  any  peo- 
ple subjected  to  her  power.    AVe  would  risk  little  in  suppo- 
sing, that  some  indiscreet  ministry  will  repeat  towards  Canada 
similar  folly  to  that  which  severed  from  the  mother  country 
the  United  States.    As  matters  now  stand,  a  serious  rupture 
cannot  be  expected,  nor  would  be  prudent  on  either  side. 

There  is  auother  light,  in  which  the  people  of  Canada  of- 
fer an  interesting  spectacle  to  those  of  the  United  States; 
that  is  an  approaching  union  or  rivalry.  In  cither  case,  ti  c 
latter  people  will  be  greatly  affected  by  the  former.  Though 
speaking  the  same  language,  enjoying  a  similar  system  of 

deeply  lament  that  the  insidious  designs  of  one  factious  individual 
should  have  succeeded  in  drawing  into  the  support  of  his  vile  ma- 
chinations, so  many  honest  men  and  loyal  subjects  to  his  majes- 
ty We  remember  that  this  favored  laud  was  assigned  to  our  fa- 
thers as  a  retreat  for  suffering  loya!ty,  and  not  a  sanctuary  for 
sedition.  In  the  course  of  our  investigation,  should  it  appear  to 
this  house  that  a  convention  of  delegates  cannot  exist  without 
danger  to  the  constitution,  in  framing  a  law  of  prevention,  Ave 
will  carefully  distinguish  between  such  convention  and  the  lawful 
act  of  the  subject  in  petitioning  for  a  redress  of  real  or  imaginary 
grievances,  that  sacred  right  of  every  British  subject  which  we 
will  ever  hold  inviolable.'5 


T.ET.  VIII.] 


POLITIC  A  Ti. 


79 


jurisprudence,  and  regulated  in  their  private  conduct  by  (lie 
same  religion,  yet  in  political  opinion,  a  wide  difference  ex- 
ists between  the  Canadians  and  the  people  of  ihe  United 
States.    In  the  latter  country,  one  generation  has  passed 
away  since  the  memorable  revolution,  that  gave  them  na- 
tional birth  ;  the  men  that  now  act  upon  the  theatre  of  pub- 
lic affairs  have  been  bred  republicans,  and  such  tlfey  are  in 
custom,  manners  and  form.    The  Canadians  have  been  edu- 
cated, at  the  same  time,,  in  the  highest  tone  of  royally.  One 
party  views  the  trappings  of  regal  pageantry  with  contempt, 
the  other  considers  attempered  monarchy,  as  the  surest  gua- 
rantee of  private  right.    Both  have  a  strong  sense  of  human 
dignity,  both  consider  governments  instituted  for  the  protec- 
tion, and  not  oppression  of  society ;  both  feel  the  amor  pat- 
ria  with  al!  its  force. 

If  Canada  was  by  any  means  made  an  integral  of  the 
United  States,  and  like  Louisiana,  given  a  legislative  equali- 
ty in  the  national  councils,  the  force  of  the  preconceived 
opinions  of  its  inhabitants  would  soon  be  felt.  By  a  singu- 
lar inconsistency,  the  men  who  in  our  last  war  with  Great 
Britain,  were  anxious  for  a  conquest  of  Canada,  were  also, 
as  a  party,  those  who  had  every  thing  to  fear  from  the  ac- 
complishment of  their  own  wishes.  In  case  of  union,  it  de- 
mands but  little  foresight  to  anticipate  the  consequence. 

Many  citizens  of  the  United  States  will  smile  at  the  sug- 
gestion of  rivalry,  between  their  country  and  Canada.  For- 
ty-three years  ago,  so  smiled  the  ministry  of  Great  Britain. 
The  march  of  time,  and  the  developement  of  events,  have 
taught  the  administration  of  that  haughty  government,  a 
lesson  of  bitter  experience.  I  wish  our  nation  may  profit, 
by  one  of  the  most  astonishing  events  in  human  history,*  an 
event  that  gave  it  a  name  on  earth,  and  an  event  that  ought 
to  convince  the  world,  how  little  dependance  there  is  in  the 
stability  of  comparative  power.  Every  year  gives  me  more 
and  more  scepticism,  respecting  worldly  wisdom.  Accident 


BO  rOLITICAXi.  [LET.  Till, 

seems  to  disturb  and  influence,  if  not  regulate  the  progress 
of  nations. 

The  work!  at  this  moment,  presents  very  nearly  the  same 
evidence  that  has  been  given  by  every  country  and  every 
age,  that  wisdom  and  foresight  but  rarely  have  much  influ- 
ence, in  producing  extensive  revolutions.  So  much  depends 
upon  circ.umsti.nces,  beyond  all  our  powers  of  calculation? 
that  in  almost  every  instance  of  human  history,  the  events 
Lave  been  productive  of  consequences,  directly  contrary  to 
prediction.  A  few,  and  a  very  limited  few,  have  ever  pos- 
sessed talent  enough,  to  form  correct  estimates  of  the  real 
bearing  of  great  commotions  among  mankind.  Effects  are 
continually  mistaken  for  causes. 

If  we  date  the  civilization  of  those  nations  from  whom  we 
are  descended,  and  from  whom  we  have  derived  our  arts  and 
opinions,  from  the  discovery  of  the  alphabet,  there  will  be 
exhibited  a  period  of  about  thirty  centuries  of  accumulated 
experience.  Precepts  have  been  deduced  from  example, 
with  how  little  fruit  the  present  moral  condition  of  man,  is  a 
melancholy  proof.  There  are  many  irrefragible  reasons, 
however,  to  convince  an  unprejudiced  mind,  that  this  appa- 
rent hopeless  depression  of  the  human  intellect,  has  been 
produced  from  causes  that  admit  removal.  The  exalted  ele- 
vation of  the  human  understanding,  in  lite  principles  of  many 
sciences,  would  warrant  the  induction,  that  if  ever  the  most 
valuable  of  all  sciences,  happiness,  could  be  duly  compre- 
hended, the  means  to  secure  it  would  become  attainable. 
Hitherto  we  have  been  taught  to  consider  our  social  state, 
sis  a  remediless  scene  of  suffering.  We  have  bartered  the 
certainty  of  happiness  on  earth,  for  lessons  of  metaphysics, 
upon  the  principles  of  which  no  two  of  our  teachers  have 
ever  been  of  accord.  We  have  given  the  sv?eat  of  our  brow, 
to  the  most  idle  and  useless  of  our  species,  and  have  received 
stripes  and  contumely  in  exchange.  We  have  divided  our 
attention  between  the  wretchedness  of  the  thousand  and  the 
glitter  of  the  one.    Our  ears  have  been  assailed  with  the 


LET.  VIII.] 


POLITICAL. 


SI 


cries  of  hunger  and  slavery,  or  regaled  with  the  orgies  of 
pampered  luxury. 

Let  no  one  deny  the  truth  of  the  above,  and  bring  the 
United  States  as  an  example  of  Us  fallacy.  The  people  of 
the  United  States  form  a  very  small  part  of  the  human  fam- 
ily, and  are  themselves  far  from  being  improved  to  the  ut- 
most, or  absolutely  secured  against  retrogradation.  They 
nevertheless  aiford  evidence  of  an  entire  change  in  opinion, 
a  change  against  which  sceptres  and  mitres  will  in  vain  con- 
tend. Europe  has  by  no  means  recovered  from  the  conse- 
quences of  the  fall  of  the  Roman  Empire.  Afflicting  as  it 
may  be,  it  is  a  fact,  there  exists  not  one  well  coalesced  gov- 
ernment in  Europe,  except  France.  No  ether  political  as- 
sociation, but  is  composed  of  shreds  of  heterogeneous  ma- 
terials, either  in  a  state  of  anarchy  or  forced  connexion. 
Nothing  has  appeared  to  shew  that  the  monarchs  of  the 
day  have  any  adequate  conception  of  producing  any  better 
state  of  things. 

It  may  not  be  irrelevant  to  our  subject,  to  view  the  nations 
of  Europe  as  they  now  stand,  in  relative  numbers.  To  gain 
any  philosophical  result,  language  must  be  the  line  of  di- 
vision and  comparison  ;  it  is  the  only  durable  mark  of  dis- 
tinction. At  this  time  there  are  in  Europe  about  thirty  mil- 
lions who  speak  French ;  thirty  millions  who  speak  Ger- 
man and  its  dialects ;  between  thirty-live  and  forty  millions 
who  speak  Sclavonian  and  its  dialects;  twenty  millions  who 
use  the  Italian  ;  fifteen  millions  of  English  ;  about  an  equal 
number  of  Spaniards  and  of  modern  Greeks.  The  Turks, 
though  in  Europe  for  upwards  of  350  years,  are  still  foreign- 
ers, and  few  in  number. 

It  is  singular  that,  except  the  French,  none  of  the  nations 
of  Europe  are  formed  out  of,  and  contain  masses  who  speak 
the  same  language.  The  political  divisions  have  arose  from 
blind  chance,  or  the  people  have  been  driven  together  by  vi- 
olence. The  art  of  government,  as  directed  towards  its  on- 
ly legitimate  ends*  the  security,  protection*  and  instruction 


POLITICAL* 


[LET.  VI1T. 


of  the  great  body  of  naticns,  h  not  even  in  its  infancy  ;  as  a 
science  it  exists  nat.  This  b  a  bold,  but  unfortunately  true 
assertion.  The  feudal  system  reigns  in  all  its  pristine 
strength,  as  far  as  the  abstract  science  of  government  is  con- 
cerned. 

There  appears  to  have  been  a  curious  mixture  of  supersti- 
tion and  ferocity  in  the  character  cf  the  northern  nations^ 
who  overcame  the  Roman  Empire.  Either  employed  in 
acts  of  cruelty,  or  piety — building  churches  or  castles.  From 
this  bent  of  the  human  mind,  has  arisen  the  principle,  that 
produced  the  present  corporate  establishments  of  Europe, 
Every  thing  bends  either  to  religion  or  war.  Schools,  colle- 
ges, and  academies,  are  directed  either  by  soldiers  or  priests* 
The  revenues  cf  the  various  states,  are  expended  on  schemes 
of  ambition,  or  paid  to  men  who  are  worse  than  idle. 

Whole  nations,  the  same  in  language,  customs,  manners^ 
and  dress,  are  kept  artfully  in  a  slate  of  hostility  ;  such  as 
the  Germans,  Italians,  and  now  the  English.  Kations  who 
differ  in  every  respect,  have  no  common  interest,  are  stran- 
gers to  each  oilier,  and  w  ho  by  a  difference  of  language,  are 
prevented  from  forming  any  tie  of  sympathy,  arc  united  un- 
der one  monarch  :  such  are  the  Germans,  Bohemians,  and 
Hungarians  ;  such  are  the  Italians  and  Germans  ;  such  am 
the  Dutch  and  Belgians  ;  such  the  English,  Irish,  and 
Scotch  ;  such  are  the  Russians,  Poles,  and  Einns,  and  such 
are  the  Turks  and  modern  Greeks. 

With  stieh  systems  of  government,  can  any  wonder  be  ex- 
cited  that  hatred  and  contempt  should  prevail  every  where. 
The  people  are  kept  in  a  state  of  profound  ignorance  of 
their  rights,  have  long  abandoned  any  conception  of  asserting 
that,  for  them  were  all  governments  instituted,  and  hy  them 
ought  all  governments  to  be  administered.  A  haughty 
aristocracy,  and  cringing  hierarchy,  possess  the  execution  and 
fruits  of  power;  the  creator  of  the  goods  of  life,  the  farm- 
er and  artisan,  depressed,  wretched  and  poor,  haye  retained 


LET.  fWI.] 


POLITICAL- 


the  possession  of  scarce  enough  of  the  things  (hey  themselves 
have?  made,  to  preserve  existence. 

The  truth  of  this  picture  cannot  be  denied.  It  may  seem 
difficult  to  account  for  such  gross  ignorance,  such  apathy, 
and  such  forbearance  in  society  ;  but  when  the  sources  from 
which  the  instruction  of  the  people  are  examined,  the  phe- 
nomenon of  their  degradation  vanishes.  That  German 
.should  be  arrayed  against  i^ernjan  ;  Jiaiian  against  Italian, 
and  English  against  English,  and  that  the  most  enlightened 
nations  of  the  globe  in  many  other  respe<  ts3  should  in  the 
most  important  of  all  their  concerns,  moral  government,  be 
still  in  the  most  barbarous  state,  cannot  excite  astonishment, 
when  it  is  known  how  little  has  been  done  to  instruct,  and 
how  much  to  brutify  man, 

A  few,  an  invaluable  few  have  existed  in  Europe,  who 
have  labored  silently  to  raise  the  species  from  their  wretched 
slate,  have  endeavored  to  inspire  men  with  ideas  of  their  own 
dignity,  and  have  been  rewarded  with  persecution  from  the 
rulers,  and  neglect  from  the  ruled.  Speculators,  innovators, 
infidels,  and  all  the  vocabulary  of  abuse,  have  been  lavished 
upon  their  heads  ;  even  the  word  philosophy  itself,  has  been 
changed  to  an  epithet,  ami  applied  to  the  most  w  ise  and  be- 
nevolent plans. 

The  struggle  between  good  sense  and  power,  has  continu- 
ed wit  Si  daily  increasing  violence,  since  the  invention  of  print- 
ing. How  (his  contest  is  to  terminate,  it  is  now  difficult  to 
predict  ;  but  such  is  the  powerful  aid  given  to  reason  by  the 
press,  that  the  best  result  may  be  hope  d.  The  French  rev- 
olution was  nothing  more  than  an  effect  of  this  long?opposi- 
tion  of  prescriptive  usurpation,  against  a  relinquishment  of 
power.  Those  who  view  the  triumph  of  despotism  as  com- 
plete, know  little  of  human  nature,  and  less  of  the  ordinary 
course  of  things  in  the  world.  Every  symptom  evinces  an 
approaching  storm,  of  perhaps  tenfold  more  violence,  than 
the  one  so  lately  abated.  That  the  potentates  of  Europe 
will  be  compelled  to  accede  to  the  wishes  of  their  subjects,  and 


cS4 


POLITICAL, 


[LET.  VIII. 


participate,  rather  than  engross  the  sovereign  authority,  or 
agam  defend  their  antique  rule  by  the  sword,  is  very  cer- 
tain. Whether,  after  long  and  reiterated  abortive  attempts, 
the  gross  of  society  will  crouch  to  an  Asiatic  principle  of 
divine  right,  or  succeed  in  forming  more  rational,  and  of 
course  more  stable  forms  of  government,  will  be  soon  de- 
termined. 

Upon  this  approaching  whirlwind,  the  people  of  the  United 
States  look  with  their  accustomed  indifference,  little  aware 
how  much  their  own  affairs  must  be  influenced  by  the  issue; 
Living  under  a  form  of  government,  having  many  of  the 
most  seductive  features  of  the  feudal  system,  we  are  far 
from  having  any  other  guarantee  than  our  own  prudence, 
against  the  ordinary  ill  effects  that  have  been  experienced  in 
every  instance,  where  that  system  has  been  tried.  In  our 
state,  and  confederated  governments,  we  are  feudal  in  a  high 
degree.  If  not  prevented  by  a  train  of  extremely  fortunate 
events,  our  posterity  must  one  day  And,  that  neither  .similar- 
ity of  language  or  opinion,  can  secure  them  against  the  con- 
sequences of  ambition,  pride  and  violence.  Religious  or 
moral  precepts,  are  but  feeble  barriers  against  the  evil  pro- 
pensities of  the  human  heart.  We  have,  however,  two  insu- 
perable advantages,  that  do  more  for  our  security  than 
our  so  much  boasted  institutions  : — the  PRESS  and  FREE 
SUFFRAGE.  Whilst  legislators  and  rulers  can  be  drag- 
ged before  society,  and  adjudged  without  evasion,  so  long 
will  our  institutions  remain  inviolate,  and  their  provisions 
applied  to  the  intended  purpose  ;  but  when  the  right  of  suf- 
frage is  retrenched*  and  when,  if  so  deplorable  an  event 
ever  does  occur  in  our  history,  our  press  is  subjected  to  the 
control  of  rulers,  then,  in  crimes,  deception,  pride,  and  de- 
gradation ;  in  insolence  and  tears,  our  posterity  will  continue 
to  exhibit  the  same  disgusting  picture  that  human  nature  has 
afforded,  since  its  acts  have  been  first  put  on  record. 

There  now  exists  two  English  nations,  who  are,  with  all 
their  moral  resemblance,  politically  separate,  and  opposed 


XET.  Till.] 


POLITICAL. 


85 


to  each  other  in  views  of  commerce  and  national  power  ; 
and  to  these  may  be  added  another,  in  Canada.  And  on 
this  continent,  may  also  be  repeated  the  violent  contention  of 
two  fragments  ot  a  congenerous  people.  Whether  the  rivalry 
or  forced  union,  would  be  the  greatest  source  of  mutual  in- 
jury, can  scarce  be  made  a  question.  With  a  very  limited 
share  of  forbearance,  it  would  be  infinitely  preferable,  for 
the  happiness  of  each  party,  to  remain  independent ;  and 
should  the  folly,  ambition,  or  cupidity  of  either  or  both, 
involve  them  in  national  disputes,  the  transitory  evil  of 
war,  could  not  be  much  worse  than  that  of  perpetual  mis- 
trust, the  necessary  consequence  of  a  connection  without  uni- 
ty of  sentiment. 

Canada,  with  the  other  British  possessions  in  North  A- 
merica,  exhibit,  in  one  respect,  a  singular  contrast  with 
their  forner  colonies  along  the  Atlantic  coast.  At  the  mo- 
ment of  their  revolt,  the  thirteen  original  states  of  our  con- 
federacy, extended  in  a  long  narrow,  and  very  accessible 
strip,  nearly  parallel  to  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  ocean. 
The  inhabited  parts  of  Cabotia,  or  British  North  America,# 
on  the  contrary,  presents  a  very  confined  and  unapproachable 
front  towards  the  ocean,  with  an  immense  line  winding  far 
into  the  interior  of  the  continent.  From  its  local  position* 
if  safe  from  an  attack  in  flank,  a  much  less  force  would 
be  able  to  defend  Canada,  than  w  as  necessary  to  preserve 
the  inde  pendence  of  the  United  States. 

Presenting,  in  common  with  the  U  nited  States,  a  long  and 
apparently  an  exposed  and  weak  line  of  frontier,  yet  even 
on  that  side,  the  Canadas  have  been  found  very  defensible  ; 
but  in  front,  towards  the  Atlantic,  this  country  would  be  ex- 
tremely difficult  to  attack  successfully.  No  doubt  the  day 
is  approaching,  when  a  trial  must  be  made,  how  far  this  peo- 
ple are  capable  of  maintaining  their  claim  to  nationality. 

*  Cabotia,  in  honor  of  Cabot  the  original  discoverer,  is  the 
very  appropriate  name  given  by  the  British  geographers,  to  the 
vast  regions  claimed  upon  this  continent  by  the  British  crown. 


H6 


POLITICAL. 


[let.  vtit. 


You  will  naturally  feel  some  surprise,  at  the  little  notice  I 
liave  taken  of  the  circumstance  of  the  diversity  of  nations, 
which  compose  the  population  of  the  Canadas.  In  my  opin- 
ion, that  diversity  is  not  of  much  consequence,  in  the  view 
we  are  taking  of  this  country.  The  descendants  of  the 
French  do,  particularly  in  Lower  Canada,  form  a  large  part 
of  the  mass  of  society,  but  in  Upper  Canada,  and  the  east- 
ern provinces  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Aew  Brunswick,  the  off- 
spring or  natives  of  the  British  islands,  are  more  numerous 
than  all  other  classes  of  society  taken  together;  and  in  all 
parts  of  the  British  colonies  in  this  quarter,  are  not  only  the 
ruling  but  the  efficient  people.  At  present  the  French  are 
generally  passive,  though  no  doubt  in  a  great  measure  dispo- 
sed, if  any  probability  of  success  offered,  to  oppose  in  con- 
cert with  the  other  inhabitants,  the  British  government,  and 
will  follow  the  current  of  events,  flow  as  it  may.  Active 
and  gallantly,  as  did  the  French  of  Louisiana  conduct  them- 
selves during  the  British  invasion  of  that  country,  and  with 
all  their  habitual  hatred  of  the  British  name,  I  saw  enough 
to  convince  me,  that  their  conduct  would  have  been  very 
passive,  had  not  gen.  Jackson  acted  with  uncommon  inspi- 
ring energy.  Indeed,  if  I  know  the  French  character  cor- 
rectly, the  very  striking  contrast  it  often  exhibits,  between 
extraordinary  decision  and  passiveness,  is  not  confined  to  the 
descendants  of  that  nation,  in  either  Louisiana  or  Canada. 

Detesting  as  I  do  all  conquest,  not  rendered  imperatively 
necessary  for  self  security,  I  would  always  consider  an  at- 
tempt on  the  part  of  the  United  States  to  conquer  Canada, 
as  in  the  highest  degree  impolitic  ;  and  in  any  incorporation* 
without  the  free  consent  of  the  people,  excessively  unjust* 
It  is  a  conquest,  however,  that  the  British  officers  seem  to 
consider  an  object  of  national  policy,  on  the  part  of  our 
government.  Mr.  Bouchette,  in  his  work  on  the  Canadas, 
page  &9t,  observes  that  «  The  views  of  the  United  States, 
«  with  respect  to  Canada  have  been  too  unequivocally  de- 
"  monstratcd  to  leave  a  shadow  of  uncertainty,  as  to  their 


XET.  IX.] 


POltTlCAl. 


87 


"  ultimate  object  $  and  as  the  preservation  of  this  valuable 
«  colony  has  always  been  deemed  worthy  of  Our  strenuous 
<•  efforts,  we  cannot  be  too  touch  on  our  guard  against  the 
<•  slow  working  policy,  by  which  that  government  endeavors 
<k  to  compass  its  ends,  or  too  heedful  in  adopting  precaution- 
"  ary  measures  to  avert  a  threatening  danger,  however  re- 
<*  mote  it  may  at  iirst  appear." 

Bouchette  is  a  respectable  writer,  and  a  native  of  Canada  ; 
he,  it  appears,  Uas  been,  however,  cither  deceived,  as  it  res- 
pects the  real  views  of  the  United  States,  or  he  charges  our 
government  with  what,  if  true,  would  be  gross  folly.  Cana- 
da, w  ith  all  its  loyalty,  has  been  rather  a  charge  than  a  ben- 
efieiary  appendage  to  Great  Britain  ;  to  the  republic  an  in- 
stitutions of  the  United  States,  it  would  be  a  dead  weight. 
Our  empire  is  already  too  extensive  to  be  easily  governed,  if 
the  whole  surface  was  well  peopled.  An  accession  of  terri- 
tory with  reluctant  or  refractory  citizens,  would  be  worse 
than  an  unprofitable  incumbrance.  Adieu. 


LETTER  IX, 

Ogdemhirgh,  July  ±7ih,  181 

Bear  Sir, 

The  Commissioners  are  advancing  with  the  survey  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  river,  and  its  islands,  in  order  to  designate  the 
boundary  line,  between  the  United  States  and  Upper  Canada. 
The  operations  of  last  year  terminated  about  a  mile  above 
Ogden's  Island,  opposite  the  village  of  Hamilton,  where  we 
commenced  this  season,  and  have  progressed  to  a  little  above 


ST.  lAWREKCE  RlVES. 


[JLET.  IX. 


this  village.  The  survey  is  conducted  with  great  precision, 
but  with  a  consequent  slowness,  that  is  extremely  incompat- 
ible with  my  views,  and  induces  me,  together  wiih  some  oth- 
er reasons,  to  quit  the  business  and  proceed  on  a  tour  to  the 
westward,  through  New-York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Michi- 
gan, and  Upper  Canada.  I  expect  to  set  out  in  the  Steam- 
Boat  to-morrow,  on  my  way  to  Sacket's  Harbor,  and  Buffa- 
lo, and  Detroit. 

1  have  already  mentioned  to  you,  in  a  former  communica- 
tion, that  the  St.  Lawrence,  properly  speaking,  commences 
near  this  town,  as  above  this  place  a  very  slight  current  is 
perceptible.  1  have  been  engaged  In  surveying  the  Gallop 
rapids  and  island^,  at  the  head  of  which  the  strong  currents 
first  commences.  A  map  of  this  very  curious  group  is  en- 
closed, which  will  serve  to  exhibit  the  peculiar  constructor* 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  islands. 

Whenever  I  attempt  a  general  or  detailed  description  of 
this  beautiful  river,  I  feel  the  difficulty  of  the  undertaking;, 
from  its  dissimilarity  to  any  oilier  stream  with  which  you 
are  acquainted.  I  doubt  indeed,  if  it  has  any  near  parallel 
upon  our  globe.  Though  I  may  not  succeed  in  giving  you 
any  very  precise  conceptions  of  its  more  minute  features,  I 
hope  to  place  before  you  such  a  picture  of  its  general  physi- 
ognomy, as  will  enable  you,  with  your  accustomed  force  of 
fancy,  to  form  an  adequate  idea  of  its  great  outline.  Though 
in  compliance  with  the  common  mode  of  expression,  I  call 
the  St.  Lawrence  a  river,  j  et  according  to  the  principles  laid 
down,  when  speaking  of  the  Hudson,  the  former  stream 
would  be  more  correctly  a  strait,  uniting  the  great  lakes  to 
the  Atlantic  ocean,  than  a  river,  in  the  strict  meaning  of 
that  term.  Since  my  arrival  on  the  boundary,  I  have  seve- 
ral times  had  arguments  with  different  members  of  the  com- 
mission, respecting  the  comparative  volume  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence and  the  Mississippi  rivers.  In  my  statistics  of  Louis- 
iana, I  have  calculated  the  quantity  of  water  discharged  by 
the  Mississippi ;  I  shall  now  for  your  satisfaction  institute  a 


LET.  IX.] 


ST*  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


general  estimate  of,  and  comparison  between  (hoselwo  great 
North  American  rivers.  I  have  already  premised  that 
when  speaking  of 'the  quantity 'of  water  in,  or  land  drained 
hy  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Lawrence  rivers,  all  the  country 
h  meant,  which  is  watered  by  their  tributary  branches. 

The  following  fable  exhibits  the  area  of  the  different  see- 
lions  of  country,  drained  by  the  St.  Lawrence* 


TABLE 

®F    THE  SUPERFICIES,  DRAINED  BY  THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ST.  LAW- 

HENCE  RIVER. 


Medial 

Media' 

Area 

Region  ly  ing  N.  W.  of  Lake  Superior, 

Length. 

Breadth 

Sq.  Uiles 

300 

80 

34,000' 

do.       north-east  of  do; 

400 

80 

32,000 

firth    fif*  T  ,q!^p  Hnrnn    nnn   wjp'jf  cii 

lilt;  aUtllLca  Ul  lllU  KJlhcl  vvcta  1  lvtl  j 

200 

AUK) 

a  r\  r\c\f\ 

40,000 

Peninsula   between   Lakes  Huron, 

Erie,  and  Ontario. 

200^ 

80 

1  \Jj\J\J\J 

North-west  of  St.  Lawrence,  below 

the  sources  of  the  Ottawas  river, 

700 

220 

1  54.000 

'Total  area  N.  W.  of  St.  Lawrence, 

2  6  b,000 

Kegion  N.  E.  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 

from  its  mouth  to  that  of  the  Rich- 

elieu,      -       -       -  - 

500 

D\J 

-6  0.,OOO 

Triangle  included  between  Black,  St. 

Lawrence,  and  Richelieu  rivers, 

230 

50 

16,500 

South  of  Lake  Ontario,    west  of 

Black  river,         -  - 

200 

80 

1 6,000 

South-east  and  south  of  Lake  Erie, 

and  east  of  Maumee  river, 

300 

30 

6,000 

Peninsula  of  Michigan, 

250 

150 

37,500 

West  of  Lake  Michigan^  and  south 

of  Lake  Superior,  - 

400 

120 

48,000 

Total  south-east  and  soutfi-west,  - 

418,000 

Area  of  Lake  Superior, 

300 

100 

30,000 

Huron, 

200 

100 

20*,000 

Michigan,       -    .  - 

270 

50 

13,500 

Erie,       -       -  - 

250 

60 

15,000' 

Ontario, 

180 

40 

7,200 

Allowance  for  the  area  of  St.  Law- 

rence river,  and  the  smaller  lakes, 

1,500 

'   t  -                    '  •  * 

H 


90 


MISSOURI  IUVISK. 


[let.  IX, 


SUMMARY. 

Square  Miles. 

Total  area  north-west  of  St.  Lawrence  river,  206,000 
Total  south-east  and  south- west  of  do.  -  152,000 
Total  covered  with  water,  —       -       -  87,200 


Total  area  of  St.  Lawrence  valley, 


505,200 


TABLE 


OF  THE  SUPERFICIES,  DRAINED  BY  THE  MISSISSIPPI  AND  ITS  TRIBL'' 
TARY  BRANCHES. 


Valley  of  Ohio,       -       -   *  * 
do,    of  the  Mississippi  proper, 

above  the  mouth  of  Missouri, 
do.    of  tiie  Missouri  and  its  con- 
fluents,      -       -       -  - 
do,    of  Arkansaw  river, 
do.    of  Red  River, 
Narrow  strip  east  of  the  Mississip- 
pi, and  below  the  mouth  of  Ohio. 
Valleys  of  White  and  St.  Francis 
rivers,       -       -  - 

Total  area .  of  the  Mississippi  val- 
ley,      -  ... 


Medial 
Length. 
700 

750 

1350 
1  100 

\mo 

400 
200 


Medial 
Jbrcadth. 
300 

300 

500 
100 
100 

70 

250 


Area 
So!  Miles, 


5  75,000 
110,000 
100,000 

28,000 

50,000 


l,394,Ov>0 


Before  leaving  New-York,  and  when  employed  in  writing 
the  Emigrant's  Guide,  I  carefully  measured  and  calculated 
the  respective  superficies,  drained  by  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Mississippi  rivers,  the  former  caipe  so  near  to  500,000 
square  miles,  that  I  assumed  that  area  in  round  numbers, 
re-measuring  the  same  stream  by  sections,  the  result  is,  as 
you  perceive.  At  the  same  period  I  also  measured  the  Mis- 
sissipi,  and  found  its  area  varied  so  little  from  1*400,000 
square  miles,  that  I  assumed  that  number  as  sufficiently  ac- 
curate for  general  purposes.  Calculating  again  by  sections, 
I  found  1,39*, 000  square  miles.    From  these  various  esti- 


X'ET.  IX,] 


III V Ell  ST.  X.UVttESCE. 


91 


mates,  I  am  confident  t  hat  neither  of  these  surfaces  are  es- 
sentially incorrect,  as  far  as  our  maps  are  entitled  to  con- 
fidence, 

The  outline  of  the  two  streams  are  respectively  as  fol- 
lows :  that  of  the  St*  Lawrence  3,500,  that  of  the  Missis- 
sippi 5,0001  Of  these  distances  the  two  rivers  have  inter- 
locking branches,  from  the  head  of  the  Allegany  branch  of 
Ohio,  to  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  and  Lake  Superior, 
which  following  the  sinuosities  of  the  dividing  line,  stretch 
along  1,300  miles. 

Rising  from  the  same  vast  table  land,  and  having  such  ex- 
tended connexion,  it  is  surely  worthy  of  remark,  that  no 
two  rivers  ou  earth  so  essentially  differ  in  ihelr  general 
features,  as  do  the  Mississippi  and  St.- Lawrence.  The  for- 
mer is  turbid,  iri  jnany  parts  to.  muddings,  the  latter  unequal- 
ly limpid.  One  river  is  composed  of  an  almost  unbroken 
chain  of  lakes,  t!se  other  in  all  its  vast  expanse,  has  no  lakes 
that  strictly  deserve  the  name*  Annually, -the  Mississippi 
overleaps  its  bed  and  overwhelms  the  adjacent  shores  to  a 
great  extent ;  an  accidental  rise  of  three  feet  in  the  course 
of  fifty  years,  is  considered  an  extraordinary  swell  of  the. 
waters  of  St.  Lawrence  ;  this  circumstance  has  occurred 
the  present  season,  for  the  first  time  within  the  lapse  of  for 
ty  years  past.  The  Mississippi  flowing  from  north  to  south, 
passes  through  innumerable  climes  ;  whilst  its  rival,  winding 
from  its  source  in  a  south-east  direction  to  near  N.  Iht.  41, 
♦urns  gradually  north-east,  and  again  flows  into  its  original 
climate  of  ice  and  snow.  The  Mississippi  before  its  final 
discharge  into  the  guiph  of  Mexico,  divides  into  a  number 
of  branches,  having  their  separate  egress  ;  the  St.  Law- 
rence imperceptibly  expands  to  a  wide  bay,  which  finally 
opens  into  the  gulpli  of  the  same  name.  The  banks  of  the 
Mississippi  present  a  level,  scarce  rising  above  the  superior 
surface  of  that  stream  ;  those  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  a 
gentle  acclivity,  exhibit  the  opposing  sides  of  an  elegant  ba- 
««*    Much  of  the  surface,  watered  by  the  Mississippi,  is  a 


RIVER  ST.  tAWKEXCE. 


[let.  IX. 


region  of  grass,  where  few  shrubs  or  frees  rise  to  break 
the  (lull  monotony  of  the  face  of  the  earth  ;  the  shores  that 
bound  the  St.  Lawrence  are,  when  in  a  state  of  nature,  cov- 
ered with  an  almost  continuous  and  impervious  forest.  And 
last,  though  rafter  an  accidental  than  a  natural  distinction, 
the  Mississippi  rolls  its  mighty  volume,  swelled  by  more 
than  a  thousand  rivers,  through  one  empire,  and  is,  as  I  once 
before  observed,  •'the  largest  stream  on  this  globe,  whoso 
entire  course  lies  within  one  sovereignty."  The  St.  Law- 
rence is,  for  more -than  thirteen  hundred  miles,  a  national  lim- 
it, and  as  such, marked  with  the  sanguinary  points  which  dis- 
tinguish the  bounds  of  rival  power.  Both  rivers  have  a 
name  in  the  hearts  of  the  people  of  the  United  States,  upon 
both  have  their  arms,  been  wreathed  with  never  fading  lau- 
rels. 

Mr.  Boimhette,  page  32  of  bis  topographical  description 
of  Canada,  commences  a  description  of  St.  Lawrence,  which 
from  the  extensive  local  knowledge  of  this  author,  is  w& 
doubt  the  best  notice  of  this  river  that  has  yet  been  publish- 
ed to  the  world.  I  am  ignorant  whether  you  have  read  Mr. 
Couchette's  statistics  or  not  ;  from  its  voluminous  size,  it  is 
a  scarce  and  expensive  work  in  the  United  States.  As  it 
would  not  be  in  my  power  to  give  so  extensive,  or  except  in 
a  small  part,  so  accurate  a  picture  of  this  remarkable 
stream,  1  have  sent  you  a  copy  of  Mr.  Bouchette's  descrip- 
tion, w  ith  occasional  notes  from  myself,  which  together  will, 
1  trusty  convey  a  tolerable  comprehensive  view  of  the  most 
singular  object  in  North  American  hydrography. 

"  The  river  St.  Lawrence,  (which  from  its  first  discovery 
in  1565,  has  been  called  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  to 
mark  its  pre-eminence,  the  Great  river,)  receives  nearly  all 
the  rivers,  which  have  their  sources  in  the  extensive  range 
of  mountains  to  the  northward,  called  the  Land's  Height, 
that  separates  the  waters  falling  into  Hudson's  Bay  still  fur- 
ther to  the  north,  from  those  that  descend  into  the  Atlantic  ; 
and  all  those  that  rise  in  the  ridge  which  commences  on  its 


XET.  IX.]  HIV  Ell  ST.  XAWKEXCE.  9* 

southern  hank,  and  runs  nearly  south-westerly,  until  it  talis 
upon  Lake  Champlain.    Of  these,  the  principal  ones  are  the 
Ottawa,  Musquinonge,  St.  "Maurice,  St.  Ann,  Jacques  C>ir- 
tier,  Saguenay,  Betsiawiles,  and  Manieouagan  on  the  north"; 
and  the  Salmon  river,  Chateaugay,  Chambly  or  Richelien, 
Yasnaska,  St.  Francis,  Beeancour,  Du  Chene,-  Chaudiere, 
and  Du  Loup,  on  she  south.    In  d liferent  parts  of  its  course 
it  is  known  under  different  appellations  ;  thus,  as  high  up 
from  the  sea  as  Montreal,  it  is  called  St.  Lawrence  ;  from 
Montreal  to  Kingston  in  Upper  Canada,  it  is  called  the 
Cataraqui,  or  Iroquois  j*  (Cataraqui  was  the  Indian  name 
for  the  river  Iroquois,  the  name  jgiVen  by  the  French  to  th<* 
six  nations)  between  lake  Ontario  and  lake  Erie,  it  is  cal- 
led Niagara  river;  between  lake  Erie  and  lake  St.  Clair, 
the  Detroit;  between  lake  St.  Clair  and  lake  Huron,  the 
river  St.  Clair  ;  and  between  hike  Huron  and  lake  Supe- 
rior, ..the  distance  is  called  the*  Narrows,  or  the  falls  of  8u 
Mary  forming  thus  an  uninterrupted  connexion  of '2000  miles. 
Lake  Superior,  without  the  aid  of  any  great  effort  of  imagi- 
nation, in  ay  be  considered  as  (he  inexhaustible  spring  from 
whence,  through  an num.be red  ages,  the  St.  Lawrence  has 
continued  to  derive  its  ample  stream.    1  am  no!,  aware  that 
the  source  of  this  river  has' thus  been  defined  before  ;  but  ex- 
amining the  usual  mode  of  tracing  large  rivers'  from  their 
heads  to  the  estuaries,  I  venture  to  believe  that  J  am  warran- 
ted in  adopting  the  .hypothesis.    This  immense  lake,  une- 
qualled in  magnitude  by  any  collection. of  fresh  water  on  the 
globe,  is  almost  of  a  triangular  form  ;  its  greatest  length  is 
331,  its  breadth  1C1,  and  its  circumference  little  less  thai*, 

*  Cok  Ogilvie,  the  British  commissioner  on  the  boundary,  in-, 
formed  the  author  of  these  letters,  that  in  the  old  deeds  to  laud 
granted  by  the  French,  soon  after  their  <  settlement  in  Canada, 
the  now  Ottawa  was  then  called  the  St.  Lawrence  ;  but  cus- 
tom has  changed  this  nomenclature.  The  Ottawa  has  reas.su  meri! 
its  Indian  name,  whilst  Catarajqui  has  bee:)  superceded  by  thv-r 
French  term  St,  Lawrence. 

II  2 


XAKE  SUPEU10K, 


[LET.  IX. 


\\b%  miles  ;  and  as  remarkable  for  the  unrivalled  transpa- 
rency of  its  waters,  as  for  its  extraordinary  depth.  Its 
northern  coast,  indented  with  many  extensive  hays  is  high 
and  rocky  ;  but  on  the  southern  shore  the  land  is  generally 
low  and  level ;  a  sea  almost  of  itself,  it  is  subject  to  many 
vicissitudes  of  that  element,  for  here  the  storm  rages,  and 
the  billows  break  with  a  violence  scarcely  surpassed  by  the 
tempests  of  the  ocean.    In  the  distant  range  of  mountains 
that    forms   the    Land's   Height,    bejond    its  northern 
and  western  shores,  several  considerable  rivers,  and  nu- 
merous small  ones  have  their  rise,  which  being  increased  iu 
their  course  by  many  small  lakes,  family  discharge  them- 
selves into  lake  Superior.    To  the  southward  also  there  is 
another  lofty  range,  dividing  the  waters  that  find  their  way 
to  ihe  Gulf  of  Mexico,  through  the  channel  of- tho  Mis- 
sissippi, from  those  that  take  a  northern  course  into  the 
great  lake  ;  so  that  its  vasfness  is  increased  by  the  tributa- 
ry streams  of  more  than  thirty  rivers.    On  its  north  and 
i;or4.h-eas*.  sides  there  are  several  islands,  of  which  one,  call- 
ed Isle  Royale  is  (lie  largest,  being  one  hundred  miles  long 
and  forty  broad.    Out  of  Lake  Superior  a  very  rapid  cur- 
rent is  interrupted  and  broken  by  several  small  islands,  or 
rather  huge  masses  of  rock,  through  a  channel  of  twenty- 
seven  miles  in  length,  at  the  end  of  which  it  flows  into  lake 
Htirgn?    The  Falls  of  St.  Mary  are  nearly  midway  between 
the  two  hikes •;  this  denomination,  though  generally  ghen* 
but  little  accords  with  the  usual  appellation  of  Falls,  as  ap- 
plied to  the  descent  of  large  bodies  of  water  precipitated 
from  great  heights,  that  so  frequently  occur  on  the  rivers  of 
America  j*  for  in  this  place,  it  is  only  the  impetuous  stream 

*  The  French  term,  said,  literally  jump,  or  leap,  from  Use 
ei  h  Muter,  to  jump  or  leap,  answers  rather  to  the  English  noun 
rapid,  than  loan  actual  perpendicular  jf&l/  of  water.  The  French 
noun  chute,  is  mdifiereiitly  applied  to  either  a  fail  or  rapid,  but 
also,  more  correctly  to  the  latter 5  cataract  signifies  the  £niu<t 
gensc  in  bod).  In ngu ages. 


iET.  IX.]  LAKE  HLHOX  U5 

of  the  enormous -discharge  from  lake  Superior,  forcing  its 
way  through  a  confined  channel,  and  breaking  wills  propor- 
tionate violence  among  the  im pediments  that  nature  has 
thrown  in  its  way;  yet  this  scene  of  tumultuous  and  un- 
ceasing agitation  of  the  w  aters,  combined  with  the  noise  and. 
dazzling  whiteness  of  the  surge,  is  not  deficient  either  in 
grandeur  or  magnificence." 

«•  Luke  Huron,  in  point  of  exteat,  yields  but  little  to  Lake 
Superior,  its  greatest  length  from  west  to  east  is  $LB  statute 
miles  .;  at  its  western  extremity  it  is  less  than  one  hundred, 
and  at  about  one  hundred  miles  from  its  eastern  shore,  bare- 
ly sixty  miles  broad  ;  but  near  the  centre  it  suddenly  bends 
away  southward,  to  the  breadth  of  one  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  ;  measuring  the  circumference  through  all  its  curva- 
tures, will  give  a  distance  of  little  less  than  812  miles  ;  in 
shape  it  is  exceedingly  irregular,  yet,  with  a  little  assistance 
from  fancy,  may  be  fashioned  into  something  like  a  triangu- 
lar. From  its  western  side  an  extensive  series,  called  (he 
MauatorJin  Islands,  stretches  in  an  easterly  direction  for  one 
hundred  and  sixty  miles  ;  many  of  them  measuring  from  t  wen- 
ty to  thirty  miles  in  length,  by  ten,  twelve,  and  fifteen  in 
breadth,  on  some  of  which  the  land  rises  into  elevations  of 
considerable  height.  Besides  this  great  chain,  there  are 
many  ethers  of  inferior  dimensions,  numerously  grouped  in 
various  parts,  rendering  the  navigation  intricate,  and  in  some 
places,  and  particularly  towards  the  west  end,  dangerous. 
On  this  lake  also,  the  navigation  is  of'teii  assailed  by  violent 
storms,  attended  with  thunder  and  lightning,  more  terrifie 
thrill  in  any  other  part  of  North  America.  At  the  western 
angle  of  lake  Huron  is  lake  Michigan,  which,  although 
distinguished  by  a  separate  name,  can  only  be  considered  as 
a  part  of  the  former,  deepening  into  a  bay  of  miles  in 
length  by  sixty-five  in  breadth,  and  whose  entire  circumfer- 
ence is  731  miles.  Between  it  and  Luke  Huron  there  is  a 
peninsula  that,  at  the  widest  part,  is  150  miles,  along  which, 
and  round  the  bottom  of  Michigan,  rumv  part  of  the  chain 


96 


JL AX E S  HURON  AND  MICHIGAN. 


[LET.  IX, 


forming  (lie  Land's  Height,  to  the  southward  ;  from  whenee 
descend  many  large  and  numerous  inferior  streams  that  dis- 
charge info  it.*  On  the  north  side  of  Jake  Huron,  many 
rivers  of  considerable  size  run  from  the  Land's  Height 
down  to  it.  One  of  them,  called  French  river,  communi- 
cates with  lake  Nipissing,  from  whence  a  succession  of 
smaller  ones,  connected  by  short  portages,  opens  an  inter- 
course with  the  Ottawa  river,  that  joins  the  St..  Lawrence- 
near  Montreal.  !*    On  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  lake  is 

*The  peninsula  between  lakes  Michigan*  Huron,  St.  Clair  and 
Erie,  and  the  rivers  St.  Clair  and  Detroit,  now  forms  the  Michi- 
gan Territory  It  is  confidently  asserted  by  many,  that,  at  high- 
fioods  a  communication  does  exist,  between- lake  Michigan- and 
Illinois  river.  If  tins  assumption  be  well  founded,  it  affords  one 
of  the  most  astonishing  hydrographical  anomalies  on  earth.  It. 
has  long  since  been  determined  that  the  surface  of  lake  Erie  is 
565  feet  above  the  level  of  tide  water  in  the  Hudson  river  at 'Al- 
bany. The  difference  of  level  between  lakes  Ene  and  Michigan 
by  the  descent  of  the  rivers  Detroit  and  St.  Clair,  cannot  exceed 
twenty-nine  feet,  if  so  much.  Detroit  is  26?  and  St.  Clair  river 
V>2  miles  in  length,  and  allowing  six  inches  per  mile  for  the  per- 
pendicular fall  of  hot!)  rivers,  is  an  ample  estimate  of  their  ag- 
gregate descent.  This  computation  would  yield  594  feet  as  the 
elevation  of  the  surface  of  lakes  Huron  and  Michigan  above  the 
Atlantic  tides ^  and  if  the  hypothesis  be  founded  on  correct  data, 
of  a  counter  current  from  the  Illinois  river  into  Michigan  lake, 
and  vice  versa,  then  the  point  of  separation  of  those  currents  js 
equi  elevated  above  the  level  of  the  gulfs  of  St.  Lawrence  and 
Mexico,  and  would  divide  this  continent  into  two  vast  though  un- 
equal islands.  Baron  Humboldt  has  established  the  fact  of  the 
existence  of  a  similar  interlocutory  communication  between  the 
waters  of  (he  Orouoco  and  Amazon  rivers;  and  I  have  in  these 
letters,  upon  the  respectable  authority  of  Mr.  Isaac  Briggs,  pub- 
lished the  fact  that  the  Waters  of  the  Upper  Mohawk  do,  when 
swelled  by  Hoods,  flow  partly  down  the  Mohawk  and  partly  dawn 
the  Oneida  livers 

f  It  has  already  been  stated,  upon  the  authority  of  Col.  Cgib 
vie,  that  the  original  French  term  St.  Lawrence  was  continued 
above  Montreal  by  the  stream  of  the  Ottawa.  Mr.  Bouchette 
unequivocally  establishes  the  transposition  of  names,  to  which  J 
have  before  alluded.  ' 

The  Ottawa  is  a  very  large  and  impetuous  stream  flowing  ou* 
of  the  mountains  which  wind  north  of  lake  .Huron.   The  general 


X»ET*  IX.]        RIVEHS  OTTAWA  AND  SAGUEtfAY. 


the  Maehedash  river,  which,  though  another  succession  of 
lakes,  separated  only  by  one  short  portage,  establishes  a 
communication  by  lake  Simeoe,  Holland  river,  and  longe- 

oourse  of  the  Ottawa  is  tolerably  well  known,  as  the  traders,  from 
Montreal  frequently  follow  that  river  in  prosecuting  their  voyages 
to  the  north-west.  For  the  distance  of  three  hundred  miles  from 
its  source,  the  course  of  the  Ottawa  is  south-east,  to  where  it  ap- 
proaches within  sixty  miles  of  Kingston  in  Upper  Canada  ;  it 
then  assumes  a  course  a  little  north  of  east,  and  flowing  in  that 
direction  about  20Q  miles  joins  the  St.  Lawrence  by  the  lake  of 
the  Two  Mountains  above  Montreal.  The  volume  contained  in, 
and  discharged  by  the  Ottawa,  is  immense;  few  if  any  rivers  on 
earth  of  au  equal  length  equal  this  stream  in  quantity  of  water. 
It  is  extremely  interrupted  by  rapids  and  falls,  frequently  che- 
quered by  islands  and  dilated  into  lakes  of  a  considerable  extent. 
Settlements  have  been  made  upon  the  Ottawa  along  both  banks 
between  i  00  and  200  miles  above  its  mouth  ;  much  of  the  soil  is 
very  fertile,  and  supplied  with  inexhaustible  forests  of  various 
kinds  of  timber. 

It  has  been  generally  believed -that  the  Ottawa  was  the  largest 
branch  of  St.  Lawrence,  but  Mr.  Bouchette  gives  that  rank  to  the 
Saguenay  ;  his  description  of  the  latter  river  is  in  the  following 
words:  "  The  river  Saguenay,  which  discharges  itself  into  the 
St.  Lawrence,  at  Point e  aux  Mlouettes,  is  the  largest  of  all  the 
streams  that  pay  their  tribute  to  the  Great  river.  It  draws  its 
source  from  lake  St.  John,  a  collection  of  waters  of  considerable 
expanse,  lying  in  N.  ]at.  48®  20'  W.  long.  .72°  SO'  receiving  ma- 
ny large  rivers  that  flow  from  the  north  and  north-west,  from  an 
immense  distance  in  the  interior,  of  which  the  Piecougamis,  the 
Sable,  and  the  Pariboaca  are  the  principal  ones.  At  its  eastern 
extremity  two  large  streams,  one  called  the  Great  Discharge,  and 
the  otjier  the  Kinogami,  or  Land  river,  issue  from  it ;  which,  af- 
ter flowing  about  57  miles,  and  encompassing  a  tract  of  land  of 
the  mean  breadth  of  twelve  miles,  unite  their  waters,  and  become 
the  irresistible  SAGUENAY;  from  which  point  it  continues  its 
course  in  an  easterly  direction  for  about  100  miles  down  to  the 
St.  Lawrence.  The  banks  of  this  river  throughout  its  course  are 
very  rocky  and  immensely  high,  varying  froni  170  even  to  340 
yards  above  the  stream.  Its  current  is  broad,  deep,  and  uncom- 
monly vehement.  In  some  places  where  precipices  intervene, 
there  are  falls  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  in  height,  down  which  the 
whole  volume  of  the  stream  rushes  with  indescribable  fury  and 
tremendous  noise.  The  general  breadth  of  the  river  is  fiom  two 
miles  and  a  half  to  three  miles,  but  at  its  mouth  the  distance  is 
contracted  to  about  one  mije.    The  depth  of  this  cnornious 


»8 


III  Y  Eli  SAG  UK  NAY* 


[let.  IX, 


street,  with  the  town  of  York,  now  called  the  capital  of  Up- 
per Canada  ;  this  route  would  most  materially  shorten  the 
distance  between  the  upper  and  lower  lakes,  and  is  capable 
of  such  improvement,  as  would  render  it  highly  beneficial  (o 
Upper  Canada,*  a  subject  that  will  be  hereafter  adverted  to. 

stream  is  also  extraordinary.  At  its  discharge,  attempts  have 
been  made  to  find  its  bottom,  with  live  hundred  fathoms  of  line^ 
bat  without  effect ;  about  two  miles  higher  up,  ithas  been  repeat- 
edly sounded  from  one  hundred  and  thirty  to  one  hundred  and 
forty  fathoms  ;  and  from  sixty  to  seventy  miles  fr  om  the  St.  .Law- 
rence, its  depth  is  found  from  fifty  to  sixty  fathoms.  The  course 
of  the  river,  notwithstanding  its  magnitude,  is  very  sinuous,  ow- 
ing to  many  projecting  points  from  each  shore.  The  tide  runs 
about  70  miles  up  it,  and  upon  account  of  the  obstructions  occa- 
sioned by  the  numerous  promontories,  the  ebb  is  much  later  than 
jn  the  St.  Lawrence;  in  consequence  of  which,  at  Jow.  water  in 
the  latter,  the  force  of  the  descending  stream  of  the  Saguenay  is 
felt  for  several  miles.  Just  within  the  mouth  of  the  river,  oppo- 
site to  Fointe  aux  Alloucttes,  is  the  harbor  of  Tad.oussac,  whicit 
is  very  well  sheltered  by  the  surrounding  high  lands,  and  has 
good  anchorage  for  a  great  number  of  vessels,  of  a  large  size- 
where  they  may  lie  in  perfect  safety.  On  the  northern  shore  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  at  many  places  on  the  Saguenay,  there 
are  stations  for  trading  with  the  Indians  for  peltry,  and  for  carry- 
ing on  the  whale,  seal,  porpoise,  and  salmon  fishery;  these  are 
known  by  the  name  of  King's  Posts/  and  are  now  let,  with  all 
their  privileges,  to  the  North  West  Company  at  Quebec,  on  a 
lease  at  a  thousand  and  twenty-five  pounds  per  annum.  An  es- 
tablishment is  maintained  at  Tadoussac,  at  Chicoutami,  on  the 
Saguenay,  at  Lake  St.  John,  at  Les  isles  de  Jerimie,  near  Betsia- 
mitis  point,  at  the  Seven  islands,  beyond  Cap  des  Monts  Pelesx 
and  at  Cap  des  Monts.  At  those  towards  the  sea  the  fisheries 
are  pursued  during  the  summer,  and  at  the  interior  ones  the  fur 
trade  is  carried  on  with  the  Indians  during  the  winter.  About 
the  trading  post  at  Chicoutami  the  land  is  tolerably  fertile,  and 
the  timber  of  a  superior  quality.  In  the  little  agriculture  that  is 
here  paid  attention  to,  it  lias  been  observed  that  grain  ripens 
sooner  than  it  does  in  the  vicinity  of  Quebec,  although  the  situa- 
tion [of  the  former  place]  is  much  further  to  the  northward. 
Another  of  the  many  anomalies  that  distinguish  the  climate  of 
Canada."  [Bouchette-s  Canada,  page  563-566. 

*  In  the  progress  of  population  along  the  border  of  the  Cana- 
dian lakes,  an  open  water  route  from  New- York  to  the  eastern, 
angle  of  lake  Huron,  will  no  doubt  be  formed ;  and  will  more  sc.- 


X.ET.  IX.] 


RIVER  ST.  CXAITi. 


From  the  extremity  of  Lake  Huron  to  the  southward,  the 
course  of  the  waters  are  contracted  into  a  river  (called  St. 
Clair's)  that  flow  between  moderately  high  banks,  adorned 
by  many  natural  beauties  for  a  distance  of  sixty  miles, *  near- 
ly due  south,  when  it  again  expands  into  (he  small  lake  St. 
Clair,  almost  circular  in  form,  its  diameter  about  SO  miles, 
and  about  90  in  circuit,  too  diminutive,  when  compared  vltir 
the  preceding  ones,  (and  not  being  otherwise  remarkable) 
to  demand  a  further  description.  Out  of  *his  lake  the  wa- 
ters again  assume  the  form  of  a  river,  (called  Detroit)  con- 
tinuing the  same  southerly  course  for  40  miles]  into  Lake 
Eric  $  its  stream  is  divided  into  two  channels  from  space  to 

riously  affect  the  course  of  commerce  in  that  quarter,  than  any 
improvement  within  human  power,  after  that  of  the  Grand  Ca- 
nal in  the  state  of  New- York.  From  the  post  of  Michiiimakinac 
to  York  in  Canada,  by  lakes  Huron,  Erie,  and  Niagara  river,  is 
650  miles,  whilst  it  is  only  350  miles  between  those  two  points  by 
lake  Huron  and  the  intended  canal  by  la!<e  Simcoe.  How  far 
the  intervening  country  between  lakes  Ontado  and  Huron,  is  fa- 
vorable to  the  formation  of  a  canal,  I  am  uninformed,  but  am  in- 
clined to  believe  that  there  does  not  exist  any  very  serious  im- 
pediment to  such  an  enterprise.  Every  tiling  else  equal,  the  in- 
habitants on  the  north  side  of  the  Canadian  sea  have  against 
them  a  difficulty  sufficient  to  prevent  a  successful  competition 
with  their  more  southern  rivals;  that  is  the  climate.  This  is  a 
circumstance  affecting  the  comparative  advance  of  the  two  coun- 
tries which  must  remain  unchanged  for  ever,  maugre  all  human 
efforts.  If  an  equal  share  of  active  enterprize  in  the  great  body 
of  the  people,  and  equal  protection  to  person  and  property  in 
their  government  distinguishes  the  contiguous  states  of  the  Uni- 
ted States,  as  the  British  Canadian  Provinces,  the  progress  of  the 
former  must  be  more  rapid  than  the  latter.  The  resources  of 
both  are,  however,  immense,  and  demand  for  de\ elopement  only 
the  energetic  application  of  their  increasing  means. 

*  The  distance  is  here  over-rated  considerably.  From  actual 
survey,  it  is  less  than  forty  miles  from  the  bottom  of  lake  Huron 
into  lake  St.  Clair.  This  subject  will  be  more  particularly  no- 
ticed in  the  sequel  of  this  treatise. 

f  This  distance  is  also  stated  too  large,  as  will  he  seen  by  re- 
ference to  that  part  of  this  correspondence  relating  to  Detroit 
gnd  its  environs. 


LAKE  ERIE, 


[LET,  IX. 


space,  by  islands  of  various  sizes,  the  largest  being  about 
ten  miles  long.  On  the  east  side  of  this  river  (he  prospect 
is  diversified  and  agreeable,  displacing  some  of  (he  beau(ies 
of  an  exuberant  soil,  aided  by  a  very  respectable  slate  of 
culrivation,  and  enlivened  by  the  cheerful  appearance  of  set- 
tlements and  villages,  gradually  rising  into  consequence  by 
the  industry  of  an  increasing  population.  The  Detroit 
opens  into  the  south-west  end  of  lake  Erie.  This  lake  ex~ 
tends  from  south-west  to  north-east  two  bundled  and  thirtv 
one  miles,  in  its  broadest  partis  63  i-2,  and  in  circumference 
658.  Near  the  Detroit  it  is  adorned  by  many  pleasing  and 
picturesque  islands,,  whilst  its  shores  on  both  sides,  have  ma- 
ny indications  of  settlement  and  cultivation.  Gales  of  wind 
frequently  occur,  and  bring  wkh  (hens  a  heavy  swell,  with 
every  characteristic  of  a  gale  of  wind  at  sea ;  but  there  ar® 
many  good  harbors,  particularly  on  the  northern  side**  thai 

*  Here  the  partiality  of  the  Canadian  appears.  Lake  Erie  is 
unfortunately  deficient  in  good  harbors  on  both  shores,  but  if  no 
other  circumstance  except  the  confluent  rivers  existed,  that  alone 
would  give  a  decided  preference  to  "the  southern  shore.  It  is  a 
singular  fact  that  the  Ouse  or  Grand  river  is  the  only  stream  of 
any  consequence  which  enters  lake  Erie  from  the  Canada  shore; 
whilst  on  the  opposite  side  enter  the  Cataraugus,  Ashtabula, 
Cayahoga,  Black  river,  Vermillion,  Huron  of  the  state  of  Ohio, 
Sandusky,  Maumee,  Raisin,  and  the  southern  Huron  of  the  Mi- 
chigan Territory;  and  besides  these,  many  of  which  afford  good 
shelter  for  vessels,  are  the  harbors  of  Dunkirk  and  Erie,  into 
which  no  rivers  are  disembogued.  Put-in-bay,  in  the  southern 
Bass  island,  is  an  excellent  harbor;  perhaps,  except  Detroit  riv- 
er itself,  the  best  in  lake  Erie.  As  the  author  visited  most  of 
these  bays  and  rivers,  particular  descriptions  will  be  found  in 
the  course  of  this  treatise,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 

The  Ouse  or  Grand  river  rises  in  Upper  Canada,  about  fifty 
miles  north-west  of  the  western  extremity  of  lake  Ontario,  and 
following  a  south-south-east  course  of  about  80  miles  falls  into 
lake  Erie  35  miles  west  of  fort  Erie;  it  has  a  bar  at  the  mouth 
like  all  other  lake  rivers.  Interlocking  with  the  Ouse  rises  the 
river  Thames,  the  riviere  a  la  Tranche  of  the  French,  or  Escan- 
sipi  of  the  Chippewa  Indians.  The  Tha  mes  flows  to  the  south- 
west, about  15  miles  from  and  very  nearly  parallel  to  lake  Erie, 
and  finally  falls  into  lake  St.  Clair  about  40  miles  east  from  Xlm 


SET. 


NIAGARA  KIVER: 


101 


afford  protection  to  the  numerous  vessels  that  navigate  it. 
Its  greatest  depth  of  wafer  is  between  40  and  45  fathoms,3* 
its  bottom  generally  rocky*  which  renders  the  anchorage 
precarious,  particularly  in  blowing  weather*  From  the 
north-east  end  of  lake  Erie,  the  communication  to  lake 
Ontario  is  by  the  Niagara  river,  30  miles  in  length,  and  va- 
rying from  half*  a  mile  to  a  league  in  breadth,  its  course 
nearly  north.  The  stream  in  some  places  is  divided  into  two 
channels  by  islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  seven  miles  in 
length.  The  current  h  impetuous,  and  being  broken  in  ma- 
ny places  by  the  uneven  rocky  bottom,  is  very  much  agitated. 
The  banks  on  each  side  of  the  river  are  almost  perpendicular, 
anil  considerably  more  than  one  hundred  yards  higb.f  On 
the  western  side  the  road  passes  aiong  its  summit,  and  de- 
lights the  traveller  with  many  interesting  views  both  of  the 
river  and  the  country,  which  is  thickly  inhabited,  and  under 
excellent  culture.  Here  also  his  mind  will  be  lost  in  wonder 
at  viewing  the  stupendous  Falls  of  Niagara,  unquestionably 
one  of  the  most  extraordinary  spectacles  in  nature,  that  pre- 
sents to  the  imagination  as  powerful  a  combination  of  sub- 
limity and  grandeur,  magnificence  and  terror,  as  it  can  well 
experience.  Any  description,  however  animated,  whether 
pourtrayed  by  the  glowing  pencil  of  art,  guided  by  the  live- 
liest fancy,  or  flowing  from  the  most  eloquent  pen  that  em- 
bellishes the  page  of  narrative,  would,  most  probably, 

town  of  Detroit.  Several  indentings  of  the  north  shore  of  lake 
Erie  produce  harbors,  one  of  which,  the  North  Foreland,  has 
fjreat  resemblance  to  the  bay  of  Erie,  though  upon  a  larger  scale $ 
some  others,  like  Dunkirk,  are  open  semi-elliptical  bays,  with  no 
great  depth  of  water.  Maiden,  or  Amherstburg,  is  incompara- 
bly the  best  harbor  in  Canada,  in  or  contiguous  to  lake  Erie. 

*  Medium  dqpth  about  20  fathoms. 

t  This  is  fact  only  between  the  falls  and  Queen stown.  Many 
places  above  the  falls  the  banks  are  nearly  on  a  level  with,  and  m 
others,  rising  but  little  above  the  surface  of  the  river.  Below 
Queenstown,  the  banks  gradually  decline,  until  near  lake  Onta- 
rio, they  are  subject  to  occasional  inimdafcioiau 


403 


NIAGARA  rUVEft* 


[LET.  IX. 


fall  short  of  doing  adequate  justice  (o  the  reality.  The  at- 
Ccmpt*  however,  1ms  been  so  frequently  made,  and  in  some 
few  instances  Avitli  tolerable  success,  as  to  convey  an  idea  of 
Sis  immensity,  that,  M  a  description  of  the  Falls  of  Niagara" 
l^as  become  familiar  to  almost  every  general  reader.  For 
this  reason,  and  also  because  in  any  new  endeavor,  I  should 
jeertainly  fee!  hut  little  confident  of  either  reaching  tlie  mer- 
it of  the  subject,  or  contributing  to  the  stock  of  knowledge 
already  obtained  thereon.  I  will  excuse  myself  from  re- 
peating what  has  been  so  often  related  before,  and  proceed 
in  describing,  with  my  best  means.,  the  general  outlines  of 
this  majestic  river. 

"  Five  miles  from  the  great  Falls  is  another,  and  scarcely 
less  tremendous  natural  curiosity,  called  the  whirlpool ;  it  is 
occasioned  by  the  stream  as  it  passes  from  the  cataract 
sweeping  with  impetuous  violence  round  a  natural  basin  en- 
closed between  some  rocky  promontories,  wherein  it  forms  a 
vortex,  that  ensures  inevitable  destruction  to  whatever 
comes  within  its  attraction.  By  thus  diverging  from  its 
forward  direction,  and  being  as  it  were  emhayed  for  a  time, 
the  velocity  of  the  current  is  cheeked,  and  subdued  to  a  more 
tranquil  course  towards  Lake  Ontario.  Four  miles  from 
hence  is  Quccnstown,  a  neat,  well  built  place,  deserving  of 
notice,  as  being  the  depot  for  all  merchandize  and  stores, 
brought  from  Montreal  and  Quebec,  for  the  use  of  the  upper 
province  ;  but  not  less  so  for  the  romantic  beauty  and  local 
grandeur  of  its  situation.  For  seven  miles  further  on,  to  tho 
town  of  Newark  or  Niagara,  the  river  forms  an  excellent 
capacious  harbor  for  vessels  of  any  size,  exceedingly  well 
sheltered  by  high  and  bold  banks  on  each  side,  with  good 
anchorage  in  every  part.  The  river  of  Niagara  communi 
catcs  with  the  west  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  rendered  memora- 
ble by  events  recently  passed,  and  most  probably  destined  to 
become  the  scene  of  contests,  that  will  be  pregnant  with 
momentous  import  to  North  America  in  future  ages.  In 
length  it  is  171  miles,  ait  its  greatest  breadth  59  1-2,  and  i67 


XET.  IX.] 


XAK1&  ONTARIO. 


103 


in  ..circumference.    The  depth  of  water  varies  very  much, 
but  is  seldom  less  than  three,  or  more  than  50  fathoms,  ex- 
cept in  the  middle,  where  attempts  have  been  made  with  300 
fathoms  without  striking  soundings.*    Its  position  is  nearly 
east  and  west.    The  appearance  of  the  shores  exhibits  great 
diversify  ;  towards  the  north-east  part  they  are  low,  with  ma- 
ny marshy  places  j  to  the  north  and  north-west  they  assume 
a  lofty  character,  but  subside  again  to  very  moderate  height 
on  the  south.f    Bordering  the  lake  the  country  is  every 
where  covered  with  woods,  through  whose  numerous  open- 
ings frequent  patches  of  settlements  are  seen  that  give  it  a 
pleasing  effect,  which  is  greatly  heightened  by  the  white 
cliffs  of  Toronto,  and    the  remarkable  high  land  over 
Presque  Isle,  called  the  Devil's  Nose,  on  the  north  ;  the 
view  on  the  south  is  well  relieved  with  a  back  ground  pro- 
duced by  the  ridge  of  hills,  that,  after  forming  the  precipice 
for  the  cataract,  stretches  away  to  the  eastward  ;  the  finish* 
ing  object  of  the  prospect  in  this  direction  is  a  conical  emi- 
iteacc  towering  above  the  chain  of  heights,  called  Fifty  Mile 
Hill,  as  denoting  its  distance  from  the  town  of  Niagara.  Of 
the  many  rivers  flowing  into  Lake  Ontario,  if  the  Genesee 

*  When  on  lake  Ontario,  I  was  informed  by  sundry  captains 
of  vessels,  that,  -after  leaving  the  shores  a  short  distance,  the 
soundings  varied  from  75  to  89  fathoms ;  seldom  so  low  as  70  or 
so  high  as  90  ;  which  would  give  a  medium  depth  of  82  fathoms. 
From  every  information  I  have  received,  the  bottom  of  the  lakes 
vary  considerably,  having  hills,  dales,  and  slopes5  similar  to  dry 
land  ;  but  with  less  abruptness  in  the  ascents  and  descents.  Com- 
pared with  the  surface  Ontario  is  the  deepest  of  all  the  Canadian 
lakes,  and  like  Erie  receives  its  principal  rivers  from  the  south 
shore. 

f  This  is  only  correct  as  respects  the  immediate  shores  ;  along 
the  south  side  of  lake  Ontario  runs  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  occa- 
sionally rising  into  banks  of  30  or  40  feet  high,  and  often  low, 
and  sometimes  marshy  ;  but  four,  five  or  six  miles  from  the  shore 
the  country  rises  into  high  hills,  with  often  a  very  broken  and 
even  mountainous  aspect.  The  country  near  Sacket's  Harbor  is 
flat,  but  resting  upon  a  bed  of  limestone,  with  hills  of  considera- 
ble elevation  in  the  rear. 


NIAGARA  2UYEJI. 


and  Oswego  rivers  be  excepted,  there  are  none  (bat  lay  claim 
*o  particular  notice,  unless  it  be  for  the  peculiarity  of  all 
of  them  having  a  sandy  bar  across  the  entrance.  There  are 
some  fine  bays  and  inlets,  wherein  vessels  of  every  description 
may  find  protection  against  bad  weather.  Burlington  bay 
is  both  spacious  and  secure  ;  but  these  advantages  are  ren- 
dered of  little  importance  by  i(s  narrow  entrance  being  so 
shallow  as  to  admit  nothing  larger  than  boats*  Hungry 
bay,  on  the  contrary,  is  conspicuous,  as  affording  good  an- 
chorage, and  safe  shelter  among  the  islands  to- ships  of  (he 
largest  size  at  all  seasons.  York  and  Kingston  harbors,  be- 
longing to  the  English,  and  Saeket's  Harbor  to  the  Ameri- 
cans, are  unquestionably  the  best  upon  the  lake,  as  they  pos- 
sess every  natural  requisite  ;  the  two  latter  are  strongly 
fortified,  being  the  arsenals  where  ships  of  war,  even  of  the 
first  rale,  have  been  constructed  by  both  powers,  and  from 
whence  have  been  fitted  out  those  powerful  hostile  squadrons 
that  have  conferred  so  much  consequence  upon  the  naval  op- 
erations in  this  quarter.^  Very  heavy  squalls  of  wind  fre- 
quently occur,  but  they  are  unattended  with  either  difficulty 
or  danger,  if  met  by  the  usual  precautions  every  seaman  is 
acquainted  with. 

Of  the  many  islandsat  the  east  end  of  Ontario,  the  Grant! 
Isle,  lying  abreast  of  Kingston,  is  the  most  extensive,  and  by 
being  placed  at  the  commencement  of  the  Cataraqui  riv- 
er, forms  two  channels  leading  into  it,  that  bear  the 
name  of  the  North  or  Kingston  Channel,  and  the  South  or 

#  Except  the  barracks  noticed  page  72  of  this  treatise,  there 
exists  no  defensive  or  offensive  military  works  at  Sacket^ 
Harbor.  The  temporary  lines  of  defence,  erected  during  the 
war,  are  now  neglected  or  removed.  It  is  a  position  with 
great  natural  advantages  which  might  be  made,  if  necessary,  very 
strong.  It  is  also  a  post  of  the  utmost  importance  to  the  U.  S. 
If  I  was  called  upon  to  point  out  which  place,  in  my  opinion,  on 
all  the  Canadian  border,  concentrated  the  most  eligible  site  for  a 
naval  and  military  depot,  I  would  unhesitatingly  give  the  mouth 
of  Black  river  the  preference. 


1ST.  IX  ] 


RiVSR  ST.  LYWREME. 


105 


Carleton  Island  Channel.  Cafaraqui,  from  lis  eniWttifee  ifr 
the  place  called  Petit  Detroit,  about  39  miles;  is  almost  filled 
"with  one  continued  cluster  of  small  islands,  so  numerous  a$ 
to  have  occasioned  the  general  denomination  ofMillcs  Isles.* 

*  Thousand  islands.  There  is  groat  vagueness  in  the  above 
description  which  [eaves  the  commencement  of  the  Cataiiicjiii  un- 
defined. Indeed  it  is  very  difficult  to  mark  with  precision  the 
termination  of  lake  Ontario,  or  the  commencement  of  the  Ckta- 
raqui  br  St.  Lawrence  river.  Before  reaching  Grand  Isle,  a  num- 
ber of  smaller  islands  chequer  the  bottom  of  the  lake  between 
Sachet's  Harbor  and  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Peninsula  of 
Prince  Edward.  The  lake  gradually  contracts  approaching  the 
west  end  of  Grand  Isle,  where  it  is  about  teii  nines  wide;  three 
miles  further  to  the  north-east,  from  Kingston  to  Cape  VincciUj 
the  distance  is  eight  miles  in  a  direct  line.  Below  Kingston,  the 
river,  or  more  correctly,  the  lake  slowly  contracts  for  about  fifty 
miles  in  a  direct  line  to  Broekville,  where  it  is  but  little  above  one 
mile  wide.  The  intermediate  space  between  Kingston  and 
Broekvilie  is  an  almost  continued  cluster  of  islands,  but  distin- 
guished by  very  different  characters.  Grand  island,  Carlton 
island  and  Well's  island  with  some  others  in  their  vicinity,  rise 
fifty  or  sixty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water  with  sloping  banks* 
and  a  productive  soil  covered  with  timber  of  various  kinds,  of 
which  pine,  elm,  maple  and  linden  are  the  principal  species. 
The  banks  of  the  main  shore  are  flat  or  rise  very  gradually  with 
a  base  of  secondary  or  floetz  rock.  The  region  known  by  the 
distinctive  appellation  of  the  Thousand  islands  is  granitic.  The 
islands  are  mostly  small,  and  many  of  them  naked  rock  ;  pine  is 
the  prevalent  timber.  The  banks  of  the  main  shore  often  pre- 
cipitous. 

A  chain  of  primitive  mountains  leaves  the  elevated  country 
south-west  of  lake  George,  and  proceeding  to  the  north-west 
through  the  state  of  New- York,  between  the  waters  of  the  <  •  - 
gatchie  and  Black  rivers,  cross  the  St.  Lawrence  between  King- 
ston and  Broekvilie,  and  continuing  into  Canada,  divides  the  wa- 
ters that  flow  north-east  into  the  Ottawa,  from  those  which  flow 
south-west  into  lakes  Huron  and  Ontario.  The  passage  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  over  this  chain,  forms  the  Thousand  islands 
Every  step  I  have  taken  on  this  stream  presents  phenomena  to 
demonstrate  that  this  ridge  was  once  unbroken,  and  that  in  it, 
some  where  existed  a  cataract,  above  which  the  waters  of  lake 
Ontario  were  elevated  greatly  above  their  present  level.  The  dis- 
ruption, or  gradual  wear  of  this  mass  of  rocks,  let  loose  the  im- 
prisoned  fluid,  inundated  the  country  below,  and  then,  perhaps, 
commenced  the  cataract  of  Niagara. 

I 


106 


It  I  Y  ER  ST.  XI WHENCE. 


[let.  el. 


The  distance  between  Kingston  and  Montreal  is  about  190 
miles;  (lie  banks  of  the  river  display  a  scene  that  cannot 
fail  to  excite  surprize,  when  the  years  that  have  elapsed 

Below  the  Thousand  islands,  commences  a  secondary  region 
consisting  in  great  part  of  schistose  sandstone,  upon  which  oftea 
rests  an  alluvial  deposit  In  this  manner  is  formed  the  unequal- 
led country  below  Brockville,  as  far  as  I  have  visited  the  river  St, 
Lawrence.  Though  not  bearing  the  name,  the  islands  between 
Morristown  and  Brockville  are  formed  from  similar  materials 
with  the  Thousand  islands.  About  midway,  between  and  a  little 
below  those  two  towns,  occur  the  last  of  these  granitic  islands, 
and  what  is  very  singular,  the  banks  of  both  shores  are  formed 
of  floeiz  or  schistc  >se  rock.  Immediately  below  Brockville,  the 
Canada  shore  is  formed  by  a  high  and  perpendicular  ledge  of 
the  latter  formation,  and  about  four  miles  above  Morristown,  the 
margin  of  the  river  is  a  ledge  of  fine  white  sandstone  in  hori- 
zontal strata.  Below  this  place,  the  river  is  without  islands 
fifteen  or  sixteen  miles,  is  from  a  mile  to  one  and  half  mile  wide, 
with  shores  rising  by  a  gentle  acclivity  from  the  water,  and  where 
cultivated,  inexpressibly  beautiful.  The  soil  exuberantly  rich^ 
and  covered  with  a  growth  of  timber,  indicative  of  extraordinary 
fertility,  such  as  white  birch,  red  maple,  sugar  tree,  elm,  linden, 
hemlock,* and  white  pine. 

Four  miles  below  Ogdensburgh,  another  group  of  islands  com- 
mence, but  with  a  physiognomy  totally  different  from  any  of  the 
preceding.  This  group  is  near  thirty  in  number,  of  different  sizes 
from  one  and  a  half  mile  to  twenty  yards  in  length,  almost  all  of 
an  elliptical  form,  and  rising  from  the  water  by  a  globular  swell. 
Such  of  those  islands  which  have  formerly  been  cleared  of  tim- 
ber, and  which  are  now  again  overgrown  by  a  new  generation 
of  trees,  are  incomparably  the  most  delightful  spots  I  have  either 
seen  or  whose  existence  I  could  conceive.  The  limpid  water 
that  surrounds  them,  clumps  of  trees  without  underbrush,  and 
in  summer  an  air  attempered  to  the  most  delicious  softness.  A 
few  days  past,  our  agent  col  Samuel  Hawkins,  gave  a  fete 
champetre.wpon  one  of  them,  to  the  members  of  the  commissions 
on  both  sides  ;  the  day  was,  even  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  uncom- 
monly fine,  and  amid  the  groves  of  aspen,  wild  cherry,  and 
linden  trees,  the  scene  seemed  snore  than  earthly.  Mrs.  Hawkins 
presided,  and  in  the  bowers  of  St.  Lawrence,  recalled  the  most 
polished  manners  of  civilized  cultivated  society  in  the  crowded 
city.  At  the  close  of  evening,  major  Joseph  Delafield  and  my- 
self, walked  over  the  island,  and  in  full  view  of  the  objects  which 
excited  our  feelings,  concluded  that  no  spot  on  the  globe  could 
unite  within  so  small  a  space,  more  to  please,  to  amuse  and  grati- 
fy the  fancy. 


LET.  IX.J  RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE.  107 

since  the  first  settlement  of  (his  pari  of  the  country  (hi  1783) 
are  considered.  They  embrace  all  !he  embellishments  of  a 
numerous  population,  fertility,  and  good  dukivatioii-,*  Well 
constructed  high  roads  leading  close  to  each  side,  with  oth- 
ers branching  from  them  into  the  interior,  render  communi- 
cation both  easy  and  expeditious,  whilst  the  numerous  loaded 
batteaux  and  rafts  incessantly  passing  up  and  down  from  the 
beginning  of  spring  until  the  latter  end  of  autumn,  demon- 
strate, unequivocally,  a  very  .extensive  commercial  inter- 
course. The  islands,  the  shoals,  tlie  rapids,  with  contrivan- 
ces for  passing  them,  form  altogether  a  succession  of  novel- 
ties that  gives  pleasure  while  it  creates  astonishment.'* 

Before  reaching  Montreal,  the  lakes  St.  Francis.  Si- 
Louis,  and  dfes  Montagues,  present  themselves  :  they  do  not 
admit  of  comparison  with  those  already  noticed,  and,  can 
indeed,  only  be  considered  as  so  many  widening®  of  the 

*  The  rapid  change  made  upon  an  uncultivated!  country  by  the 
introduction  of  the  necessary  arts  of  civilized  life,  never  did  re- 
ceive a  more  striking  exemplification,  than  is  now  given  by  the 
left  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  below  the  Thousand  islands,  as  far 
down  as  Hamilton.  'Fields  joining  to  fields,  farm -houses,  with 
their  most  attractive  decoration,  garden,  meadow,  and  orchard, 
smile  along  this  truly  elegant  slope.  Villages  with  many  of  the 
highest  traits  of  cultivated  life,  and -with  ali  the  first  principles  of 
civilization,  rise  along  this  once  desolate  waste.  Brockville, 
Prescott,  and  Johnstown,  are  now  what  were  once  New- York  and 
Philadelphia,  what  were  once  Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  ranging* 
farther  back  in  the  lapse  of  ages,  wiiat  was  once  Athens,  Rome, 
Paris  and  London. 

Many  times,  when  the  rising  and  setting  sun  spread  a  glow  of 
golden  lustre  over  this  attractive  picture,  have  I  demanded  of 
myself,  was  this  country  a  gloomy  forest  scene  only  five  and  thirty 
years  past  ?  The  rich  lustre  of  harvest  would  have  answered, 
that  upon  this  expanse  the  labor  of  ages  had  been  expended ;  but 
history  faithfully  points  to  the  contrary.  In  1 783  the  ax  first 
resounded  on  these  shores ;  and  now,  \S\8}  the  world  can  pre- 
sent but  few,  if  any  regions  of  equal  extent,  where  all  that  can  al- 
lure the  eye,  or  gratify  the  mind,  can  be  found  more  condensed 
into  one  view.  Savage  life  has  disappeared  for  ever,  and  in  its 
place  now  stands  the  residence  of  the  instructed  man. 


1C8  RIVER  ST.  LAURENCE.  [LET*  IX. 

river.*  They  are  of  no  great  depth,  but  form  an  agreeable 
variety,  by  having  many  pretty  islands  scattered  about  them. 
St.  Francis  is  25  miles  long  by  five  and  a  half  miles  broad  ; 
the  shores  in  some  places  are  marshy,  as  they  do  not  rise 
much  above  the  level  of  the  water.  St.  Louis  and  Deux 
Montagues,  are  formed  at  the  junction  of  the  Ottawa  with 
the  St.  Lawrence ;  the  first  is  12  miles  long  by  6  broad  ;  the 
latter  is  very  irregular,  and  in  its  whole  length  2<*  miles,  but 
varying  in  breadth  from  1  to  6  miles. 

<•  At  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers  are  the  islands  of 
Montreal,  isle  Jesus,  Bizarre,  and  Perrot ;  the  first  is  pro- 
bably the  most  beautiful  spot  of  all  Lower  Canada.  On  the 
youth  side  of  this  island  is  the  city  off  the  same  name,  and  its 
convenient  port.  580  miles  from  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  to 
which  ships  of  six  hundred  tons  can  ascend  with  very  little 
difficulty.!    On  the  north-west  lies  Isle  Jesus,  that,  by  its 

#  If  the  first  springs  that  afterwards  form  the  rivers  west  of 
Jake  Superior,  are  taken  into  the  account  then  lake  Superior  it- 
self  is  nothing  more  than  a  dilatation  of  the  waters  as  they  are  ag- 
gregated in  descending  from  their  original  source.  Lakes  Huron, 
Micliig'aiij  Erie,  and  Ontario,  differ  in  nothing  but  comparative 
extent,  from  those  of  St.  Francis  and  St.  Louis  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence l  iver  ;  from  lake  George  and  Champlain  in  the  Richelieu  ; 
j  l'om  J  a  ke  Pepiu  iu  the  Mississippi,  and  from  lake  Leman  in  the 
Rhone;  The  smallest  brook,  presents  all  the  features  of  the 
largest  river,  where  the  plain  has  too  little  inclination  to  admit 
direct  descent,  a  pond  or  lake  is  formed,  and  where  the  descent 
becomes  rapid,  a  flowing  stream  is  the  consequence.  From  these 
simple  principles,  arise  all  the  features  perceivable  from  the  dimp- 
ling pool,  to  the  vast  expanse  of  lake  Superior,  or  the  Caspian  sea  ; 
from  the  rippling  rill  to  the  overwhelming  torrents  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  St.  Lawrence  All  streams  are,  in  fact,  composed  of 
chains  whose  links  are  themselves  alternately  lakes  and  cataracts, 
the  cause  of  the  existence  of  the  former,  is  a  greater  approach  to 
*he  curye  of  the  real  sphere  ;  the  latter  is  produced  by  an  in- 
clination of  more  or  less  obliquity  to  that  curve  superficies. 

t  Compared  with  any  other  stream  of  the  globe,  the  St.  Law- 
rence, when  free  from  ice,  certainly  affords  the  best  ship  naviga- 
tion. No  other  river  can  be  ascended  so  far  with  equal  vessels, 
and  with  so  little  impediment.  The  only  streams  that  can  corn- 
pete  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  are  the  Oronoque  and  Rio  de  la 


XET.  IX.] 


RIVER  ST*  LAWRENCE. 


109 


position,  forms  two  other  channels  of  a  moderate  breadth, 
one  called  la  Riviere  des  Prairies,  and  the  oilier  !a  Riviere 
<le  St.  Jean,  or  Jesus.    They  are  both  navigable  for  boats 
or  rafts,  and  unite  again  with  the  main  river  at  Bout  tic  V 
Isle,  or  east  end  of  Montreal  island.    From  this  city  the  na- 
vigation assumes  a  character  of  more  consequence  than  what 
it  does  above,  being  carried  on  in  ships  and  decked  vessels  of 
all  classes.     In  the  distance  from  hence  to  Quebec,  180 
miles,  the  impediments  to  vessels  of  large  tonnage  sailing 
either  up  or  down  are  not  many,  and  may  be  overcome  with 
much  ease,  if  it  be  judged  expedient  that  their  cargoes  should 
be  so  conveyed  in  preference  to  transporting  them  in  small 
craft.    On  either  side  the  prospect  is  worthy  of  admiration. 
The  different  seigniories,  all  in  the  highest  state  of  improve- 
ment that  the  agriculture  of  the  country  will  admit  of,  denote 
both  affluence  and  industry.    The  views  are  always  pleasing 
and  often  beautiful,  although  the  component  parts  of  them 
do  not  possess  that  degree  of  grandeur  w  hich  is  perceivable 
below  Quebec.   Numerous  villages  built  around  a  handsome 
htone  church,  seem  to  invite  the  traveller's  attention,  while 
single  houses  and  farms  at  agreeable  distances  appear  to 
keep  up  a  regular  chain  of  communication.    In  fact,  who- 
ever passes  from  one  city  to  the  other,  whether  by  water  or 
by  land,  will  not  fail  to  have  his  senses  highly  gratified,  and 
to  meet  with  many  subjects  worthy  both  of  observation  and 

Plate,. both  in  South  America.  The  Amazon  and  Mississippi  can 
neither  present  so  much  facility  for  internal  commerce,  as  far  as 
the  ingress  of  large  ships  is  concerned.  On  the  eastern  contin- 
ent, the  Elbe,  Garonne,  Wolga,  and  Ganges,  are  the  rivers  that 
admit  the  highest  descent  of  ships,  neither  of  winch  are  equal  in 
that  respect,  to  the  Hudson  or  the  Delaware. 

The  beauty  of  the  St.  Lawrence  islands  has  been  noticed  ;  that 
of  Montreal  has  the  preference  of  greater  extent  than  any  other 
with  equal  elegance  of  natural  physiognomy*  The  scenery 
around  this  city  is  on  a  vast  scale,  being  bounded  by  mountains 
more  than  eighty  miles  distant,  uniting  in  itse!f,  a  most  attractive 
local,  with  a  position  equally  favorable  for  external  and  internal 
commerce :  it  now  contains  25,000  people. 

I  2 


RITE  It  ST.  XAVTEENCE. 


j    [LET.  IX. 


reflection.  About  45  miles  below  Montreal,  oh  the  south 
side,  is  the  town  of  William-Henry,  op  Sorrel,  built  at  the 
entrance  of  the  river  Richelieu  in(o  the  St.  Lawrence,  not 
far  from  which  the  latter  spreads  into  another  lake,  the  last 
in  its  progress  towards  the  sea ;  it  is  called  St.  Peters,  is  25 
miles  long  and  9  broad  ;  like  most  of  the  others,  this  has  a 
group  of  islands  covering  about  9  miles  of  the  western  part ; 
between  them  two  distinct  channels  are  formed,  the  one  to 
ihe  south  being  the  deepest  and  clearest  is  consequently  the 
best  for  ships.  The  banks  on  each  side  are  very  low,  with 
shoals  stretching  from  them  to  a  considerable  distance,  so 
that  only  a  narrow  passage,  whose  general  depth  is  from  12 
to  18  feet,  is  left  unobstructed.  About  45  miles  from  William 
Henry  on  the  north  side,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.Mannee, 
stands  tike  town  of  Three  Rivers,  the  third  in  rank  within 
the  province.    At  this  place  the  tide  ceases  entirely,*  and, 

*  Or  in  other  words,  the  town  of  Three  Rivers,  stands  at  the 
head  of  tid<j  water  in  the  St.  Lawrence.  If  it  is  ISO  miles  from 
Quebec  to  Montreal,  and  90  from  the  latter  to  Three  Rivers,  than 
the  tides  flow  90  miles  above  Quebec,  or  nearly  400  miles  from 
the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  an  unequalled  distance  into  the 
interior  of  this  or  any  other  part  of  the  earth.  Like  as  in  the 
Hudson,  the  tides  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  pass  through  a  chain  of  pri- 
mitive mountains,  upon  the  ruins  of  which  stands  Quebec.  As 
i  have  before  observed  of  the  chain  which  passes  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  forms  the  Thousand  Islands,  I  repeat  respecting  that 
which  traverses  the  same  river  near  Quebec,  that  it  was  once 
continuous,  and  confined  the  waters  above  it,  forming  a  lake, 
which  must  have  been  drained  by  some  of  those  operations  of  na- 
ture, which  impose  lasting  changes  upon  our  globe. 

"  When  this  opening  was  made  by  the  force  of  the  included 
water,  the  land  was  le id  bare  on  both  sides  of  that  river  (St. 
Lawrence,)  as  fur  as  St.  Regis,  including  the  islands  of  Montreal 
and  Jesus;  and  by  the  same  operation,  the  land  on  both  sides  of 
lake  Champlain  would  be  drained  as  far  as  Ticonderoga  and 
Whitehall.'' — Br.  S.  L.  MitchiWs  Notes  on  Cuvier7*  Theory  of 
the  Earth,  page  39  1 . 

This  ancient  lake  was  not  bounded  by  St.  Regis ;  at  that  village 
there  exists  no  land  of  any  considerable  elevation  above  the  level 
of  the  water  in  the  river  that  could  set  bounds  to  the  included  lake. 
S  have  already  observed  that  no  current  of  any  consequence  exists 
Ln  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  lake  Erie  to  the  lower  extremity  of  the 


XET.  I^.] 


RIVER  ST.  XAWKENCE. 


Ill 


indeed,  is  net  much  felt  at  several  miles  below  it :  from 
hence  there  is  scarce  any  variation  in  the  general  aspect  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  until  arriving  at  the  Richelieu  rapid  (about 
52  miles,)  where  its  bed  is  so  much  contracted  or  obstruct- 

Thousand  islands ;  consequently  the  present  depression  of  the 
river  commences  at  that  place.  The  fa II. in  St.  Lawrence,  is 
from  the  beginning  of  its  current,  to  tide  water  231  feet,  (see  my 
letter  to  Charles  G.  Haines,  Esq.)  therefore  if  any  impediment 
of  that  height  was  now  raised  at  Quebec,  the  accumulated  waters 
would  again  assume  a  level  to  the  west  end  of  lake  Ontario.  It  is 
probable  that  the  outer  or  Quebec  barrier,  yielded*  before  the  up- 
per, or  that  of  the  Thousand  islands,  and  that  a  cataract  of  very 
considerable  elevation,  existed  for  a  great  length  of  time  near 
where  Brockville  now  stands.  The  waters,  by  their  abrasion, 
finally  cut  the  inner  granitic  chain,  and  a  depression  in  life  depth 
and  .  great  contraction  in  the  extent  of  lake  Ontario  was  the  effect. 
It  appears  from  the  phenomena  exhibited  by  most  rivers,  that 
schistose  secondary  yields  more  slowly  to  the  action  of  water,  than 
do  primitive  rocks,  though  the  latter,  are  in  fact,  harder  in  their 
texture,  than  the  former,  A  stream  glides  smoothly  over  a  bed 
of  horizontal  slate,  without  producing  much  effect;  primitive 
rocks  by  their  fractured  surface,  oppose  points  of  contact  to  the 
falling  fluid  which  imperceptibly  tears  away  the  broken  frag- 
ments of  rock,  and  finally  gains  a  smooth  uninterrupted  channel. 
All  the  rapids  in  the  St.  Lawrence  rush  over  smooth,  beds  of  floetz, 
limestone,  or  sandstone,  whicli  have  prevented  the  stream  from 
producing  a  greater  effect  upon  the  incumbent  primitive  strata 
above,  towards  lake  Ontario. 

If  a  similar  effect  had  been  produced  in  the  St.  Lawrence  that 
has  taken  place  in  the  Hudson,  then  would  the  Atlantic  tides 
have  flowed  to  Niagara.  The  medium  depth  of  lake  Ontario  is 
about  82  fathoms,  or  49  2  feet,  and  as  we  have  already  seen,  the 
difference  of  level  between  the  surface  of  lake  Ontario,  and  tide 
water  is  23  i  ;  of  course  the  bottom  of  lake  Ontario  is  generally 
below  tide  water  2*6 1  feet.  It  is  now  evident  that  if  the  interven- 
ing barrier  was  broken,  the  lake  would  again  depress  23!  feet  and 
leave  immense  spaces  dry  laud  which  are  yet  submerged ;  though 
a  residue  would  remain  which  would  still  have  a  depth  of  26 1  feet, 
far  greater  than  is  now  the  case  in  lake  Erie. 

The  breadth,  strength,  and  texture  of  the  composing  materials 
in  the  St.  Lawrence,  however,  renders  a  farther  depression  of  its 
volume  the  work  of  unlimited  ages,  and  compared  with  the 
epocha  in  human  history,  the  present  order  of  things  in  that 
quarter  may  be  considered  perpetual.  No  earthquake,  short  of 
a  convulsion  which  would  disrupt  the  earth  to  its  center  could  re- 


HlVi:K  ST.  LAWRENCE* 


[let.  IX. 


«  il  by  huge  trusses  of  rock,  as  to  leave  but  a  wevy  narrow 
channel,  wherein  at  ebb  tide  there  is  so  great  a  descent,  that 
much  caution,  and  a  proper  time  of  the  ebb  is  necessary  to 
pass  through  if  ;  at  the  end  of  the  rapid,  there  is  a  good  an- 
<  borage,  where  vessels  can  wait  their  convenient  opportuni- 
ty. From  Monti  cul,  thus  far,  the  banks  are  of  a  very  mo- 
derate elevation,  and  uniformly  level,  but  hereabout  they 
uw  much  higher*  and  gradually  increase  in  their  approach 
to  Qui  bee,  until  they  attain  the  height  of  Cape  Diamond, 
Upon  which  the  city  is  built.  At  this  capital  of  the  pro- 
vince and  seat  of  government,  tin  re  is  a  mosi  excellent  port 
smd  a  capacious  basin,  wherein  the  greatest  depth  of  water 
is  28  fathoms,  with  a  tide  rising  from  17  to  18,  and  at  (he 
.springs,  fiom  To  to  2i  feet.  From  whence,  and  from  Point 
Levi  on  the  south  shore,  o:ie  of  the  most  striking  panoramic 
views,  pes  haps,  in  the  whole  w  orld,  offers  itself  to  notice  5 
the  assemblage  of  objects  is  so  grand,  and  though  naturally, 
yet  appear  so  artificially  contrasted  with  each  other,  that 
they  mingle  surprize  with  the  gratification  of  every  beholder. 
The  capital  upon  ihe  summit  of  the  cape,  the  river  St. 
Charles,  flowing  for  a  great  distance,  through  a  valley, 
abounding  in  natural  beauties,  the  falls  of  Montmorency,  the 
island  of  Orleans,  and  the  well  cultivated  settlements  on  all 
*ddes,  form  together  a  coup  d'  eil,  that  might  enter  into 
competition  with  the  most  romantic.  At  the  basin,  the  St. 
[Lawrence  is  two  miles  across,  and  continues  increasing  m 
hreadth  until  it  enters  the  gulf  of  the  same  name,  where* 
from  Cape  Hosier  to  the  Mingan  settlement  on  the  Labia 

ynove  such  enormous  masses,  and  if  such  a  catastrophe  ever  does* 
occur,  an  entire  change  will  ensue  in  rivers  and  lakes,  and  pro- 
duce a  new  physiognomy  on  the  earth's  surface.  I  have  lon^ 
been  of  opinion,  that  the  accidental  agency  of  earthquakes  and 
volcanoes,  has  been  overrated,  whilst  the  slow,  but  constant  in- 
fluence of  water  has  met  with  too  little  attention  from  philoso- 
phers and  naturalists.  This  subject  will  again  come  in  review 
when  we  are  examining  the  features  of  lake  Erie  and  Niagara 
river* 


I,ET.  IX.] 


1UVEU  ST.  TAW'REKCE. 


ilor  shore,  it  is  very  near  105  miles  wide.    A  little  below  the 
i  ity  is  the  isle  of  Orleans,  placed  in  the  midway,  consequent* 
ly  forming  two  channels)  the  one  to  the  south  is  always 
used  by  ships,  the  shore  on  that  side  is  high,  and  on  the  op- 
posite, in  some  places,  it  is  even  mountainous,  but  in  both, 
extremely  well  settled,  and  the  lands  in  such  a  high  state  of 
improvement,   that  a  (urge  tract  in  the  vicinity  of  Riviere 
<lu  Sud.  is  familiarly  called  the  granary  of  the  province. 
Beyond  the  island  of  Orleans  are  several  ethers,  as  Goose 
island,  Crane  island,  and  many  small    ones  ;  these  two  are 
tolerably  well  cultivated,  but  the  rest  are  neglected.  At 
Riviere  du  Sud,  the  great  river  is  increased  to  eleven  miles 
in  width,  and  the  country  that  adjoins  it,  cannot  be  easily 
rivalled  in  its  general  appearance.    The  great  number  of 
churches,  telegraph  stations  and  villages,  whose  houses  are 
almost  always  whitened,  are  so  well  exhibited  by  the  dark 
contrast  of  the  thick  woods  covering  the  rising  grounds  be- 
hind them  up  to  their  summits,  and  the  termination  so  com- 
pletely defined  by  the  distant  range   of  lofty  mountains 
forming  the  boundary  before  noticed,  that  very  few  land- 
scapes will  be  found  actually  superior  to  it.    Beyond  Riviere 
du  Sud,  is  a  channel  named  the  Traverse,  which  deserves 
mention  from  the  circumstance  of  the  river  beins:  here  thir- 
teen  miles  across;  yet  the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  the  shoal  of 
St.  Roche,  and  another  called  the  English  Bank,  interrupt 
the  fair  way  so  much,  that  this  passage,  which  is  the  usual 
ione  the  pilots  choose,  is  not  more  than  from  17(  0  to  1800 
yards  between  the  two  buoys  that  mark  the  edge  of  the 
•shoals  ;  it  is  the  most  intricate  part  of  the  river  below  Que- 
bec, the  currents  are  numerous,  irregular  and  very  strong, 
on  which  large  ships  must  consult  the  proper  time  of  the 
tide  to  pass  if  without  accident.  On  the  north  shore  between 
the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  and  the  main  there  is  another  channel, 
but  the  current  is  &o  rapid,  the  depth  of  water  so  great,  and 
I  be  holding  ground  so  bad  in  case  of  heing  obliged  to  anchor 
within  it,  that  pilots  always  give  the  preference  to  running 


114 


-KIVELt  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


[LET.  IE. 


tlj rough  the  Traverse.  Not  the  smallest  difficulty  will  ever 
be  found  in  making  (his  passage  good,  if  the  bearings  ani 
directions  laid  down  upon  my  topographical  map  be  duly  at- 
tended io.  Passing  the  Traverse,  a  very  agreeable  view  of 
the  settlements  of  the  bay  of  St.  Paul,  enclosed  within  an 
amphhheatre  of  very  high  hills,  and  the  well  cultivated  Isle 
aux  Coudres  at  its  entrance,  presents  itself.  Continuing 
down  the  river,  the  next  in  succession  are  (he  islands  of 
Kamoura.sea,  the  Pilgrims,  Hare  Island,  and  the  cluster  of 
small  ones  near  it,  named  the  Brandy  Pots,  these  are  reck- 
oned 103'  miles  from  Quebec,  and  well  known  as  the  ren- 
dezvous, where  the  merchant  ships  collect  to  sail  with  con- 
voy. From  hence,  at  no  great  distance,  is  Green  island,  on 
which  h  light-house,  where  a  light  is  shewn  from  sun-set  to 
sun-rite,  between  the  15th  of  April  to  the  10th  of  Decem- 
ber* Near  Green  island  is  Red  island,  and  abreast  of  it  on 
the  northern  shore  is  the  mouth  of  the  river  Sag ue nay,  re- 
inarhahlc  even  in  America  for  the  immense  volume  of  wa- 
ter it  pours  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  Proceeding  onwards  is 
Bic  island,  153  miles  from  Quebec,  a  point  that  ships  al- 
ways endeavour  to  make  on  account  of  its  good  anchorage, 
as  well  as  being  the  place  where  men  of  war  usually  wait 
the  comiftg  down  of  the  merchantmen  ;  next  to  Bic  island, 
is  the  Isle  St.  Barnahe,  and  a  little  farther  on  the  Point  aux 
Peres-  From  this  point  the  river  is  perfectly  clear  to  the 
gulf,  and  the  pilots  being  unnecessary  any  longer,  here  give 
lip  their  charge  of  such  as  are  bound  outwards,  and  receive 
those  destined  upwards.  Below  Point  aux  Peres,  are  two 
very  extraordinary  mountains  close  to  each  other,  called  the 
Paps  of  Matanc,  and  nearly  opposite  them  the  bold  and 
Ibfty  promontory  of  Mount  Pelee,  where  the  river  is  little 
more  than  25  miles  wide,  but  the  coast  suddenly  stretches 
almost  northerly,  so  much,  that  at  the  seven  islands,  it  is 
increased  to  73  miles.  The  settlements  on  the  south  side 
reach  down  thus  far,  but  hereabouts,  they  may  be  consider- 
ed to  terminate,  as  to  the  eastward  of  cape  Chat,  the  pro- 


xet.  in.] 


RIVER  f  P.  XAtrRJ&NCE. 


115 


gress  of  industry  is  no  longer  visible ;  on  the  north  side,  (he 
cultivated  lands  extend  only  to  Mallbay.  In  the  river  itself 
nothing,  (farther)  claims  our  attention,  except  the  separation 
of  its  shores  to  the  distance  already  mentioned,  from  cape 
Rosier  to  the  Mingan  settlement. 

«  I  must  still  trepass  upon  the  patience  of  my  readers  long 
enough  to  mention,  that  the  observations  hither  made,  apply 
only  to  one  part  of  the  year ;  and  also,  to  notice,  that  from 
the  beginning  of  December,  until  the  middle  of  April,  the 
water  communication  is  totally  suspended  by  the  frost. 
During  this  period,  the  river  from  Quebec  to  Kingston,  and 
between  the  great  lakes,  except  the  Niagara  and  the  rapids, 
is  wholly  frozen  over.  The  lakes  themselves,  are  never  en- 
tirely covered  with  ice,  but  it  usually  shuts  up  all  the  bays 
and  inlets,  and  extends  many  miles  towards  their  centres. 
Below  Quebec  it  is  not  frozen  over,  but  the  force  of  the  tides 
incessantly  detaches  the  ice  from  the  shores,  and  such  im- 
mense masses  are  kept  in  continual  agitation  by  the  flux 
and  reflux,  that  navigation  is  totally  iQipractieable  in  these 
months.  But  though  for  this  length  of  winter,  the  land  and 
water  are  so  nearly  identified,  the  utility  of  the  river,  if  it  be 
diminished,  is  far  from  being  wholly  destroyed,  for  its  sur- 
face still  offers  the  best  route  for  land  carriage,  (if  the  me- 
taphor can  be  excused  ;)  and  tracks  are  soon  marked  out  by 
which  a  more  expeditious  intercourse  is  maintained  by  ve- 
hicles of  transport  of  all  descriptions  than  it  would  be  pos- 
sible to  do  on  the  established  roads,  at  this  season  so  deeply 
covered  with  snow,  and  which  are  available  until  the  ap- 
proach of  spring  makes  the  ice  porous,  and  warm  springs 
occasioning  large  flaws,  render  it  unsafe*  When  this  altera- 
tion takes  place,  it  soon  breaks  up,  and  by  the  beginning  of 
May,  is  either  dissolved  or  carried  of  by  the  current.2* 

*  This  can  only  be  correct  in  common  years,  as  instances  do 
occur  of  the  ice  between  Montreal  aud  Quebec  •  remaining  after 
the  first  of  May.  The  ice  in  the  Hudson  river  breaks  up  always 
sooner  than  in  the  lower  part  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  even  in  the 


11C> 


RIVER  ST.  XAWREXCE. 


[LET.  IX. 


"  The  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  that  receives  the  waters  of 
fhis  gigantic  river,  is  formed  between  the  western  part  of 
Newfoundland,  the  eastern  shores  of  Labrador,  the  eastern 
extremity  of  (he  province  of  New  Brunswick,  part  of  the 
proyince  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  the  island  of  Cape  Breton. 
Jt  communicates  with  the  Atlantic  ocean  by  three  different 
passages,  viz  :  on  the  north  by  the  straits  of  Belieisle  between 
Labrador  and  Newfoundland  5  on  the  south-east  by  the  pas- 
sage from  cape  Ray;  the  south-west extremity  of  the  lat- 
ter island,  and  the  north  cape  of  Breton  Island  j  and  lastly 
)>y  the  narrow  channel  named  the  gut  of  Canso,  that  divides 
cape  Breton  from  Nova  Seotia.  The  distance  from  cape 
Breton  to  cape  Bay  is  79  leagues,  and  from  Nova  Scotia  to 
Labrador  one  hundred  and  six." 

[Bonchclte's  Canada,  page  32—55. 

Jt  has  already  been  observed  that  the  St.  Lawrence  was 
rather  a  strait  than  a  river  ;  below  Quebec  it  assumes  more 
the  character  of  a  bay,  than  either  that  of  a  strait  or  river* 
In  such  rivers  as  the  St.  Lawrence.  Hudson,  Delaware,  Sus- 
quehanna, Rio  de  la  Plate,  and  Elbe,  it  is  very  difficult  to 
determine  where  the  river  ceases,  and  the  bay  commences. 
Kxeept  width,  no  essential  change  in  the  ordinary  features 
of  the  stream  of  the  St.  Lawrence  takes  place  below  Que- 
bec. It  is  perfectly  similar  at  the  Island  of  Orleans,  and 
opposite  Cape  Rosier. 

Amongst  the  most  interesting  problems  suggested  by  a  re- 
view of  this  mighty  river,  is  the  comparative  quantity  of 
water  contained  in  its  volume  or  discharged  at  its  m<  uth. 
No  river  of  this  globe  can  ditfer  so  much  in  the  mass  of 
contained  fluid  and  its  expenditure  as  the  St.  Lawrence.  I 
have  already  given  a  table  of  the  area  of  this  river  and  its 

former,  the  i^e  not  unfrequeutly  continues  firm  late  in  April,  as 
was  the  case  in  1818,  the  present  year.  The  occurrence  of  rain 
Las  the  greatest  agency  hi  producing  the  removal  of  ice  in  spring 
in  any  river  subject  to  be  frozen  hi  winter. 


X.ET.  IX.] 


RlYEIt  ST.  XAWIIESCE. 


117 


lakes,  expressed  in  square  miles  ;  and  have  also  observed 
(hat  the  depth  of  the  lakes  was  very  unequal,  and  difficult 
to  reduce  to  a  medium.  Without  pretending  to  a  very  strict 
accuracy,  I  will  endeavor  to  estimate  the  quantity  of  water 
contained  in  the  St.  Lawrence  and  its  lakes,  assuming  my 
former  superficies  as  data  for  the  surface,  and  estimating 
the  depth  from  the  best  information  in  my  reach.  It  ap- 
pears from  the  united  information  of  all  those  who  have 
made  the  necessary  experiments,  that  lakes  Superior  and 
Huron  are  vast,  and  in  some  places  unfathomable  gulfs ;  that 
of  all  the  great  lakes  that  of  Erie  is  the  most  shallow,  not 
exceeding  an  average  of  more  than  20  fathoms  ;  and  that 
Ontario  varies  from  75  to  89  fathoms,  with  a  medium  depth 
of  82  fathoms.  The  St.  Lawrence  itself  varies  very  much 
in  depth,  and  exhibits  phenomena  that  shew  its  bottom  to  be 
excessively  uneven.  In  order  to  be  within  the  limits  of  re- 
ality, I  have  assumed  a  medium  depth  of  20  feet,  for  all  the 
surface  contained  in  the  last  item  of  my  estimate,  of  1,500 
square  miles  for  the  superficial  area  of  St.  Lawrence  river 
and  the  smaller  lakes  :  I  have  also  assumed  for  lakes  Supe- 
rior, Huron  and  Michigan  150  fathoms  or  900  feet,  and  upon 
these  data  have  constructed  the  following  : 

TABLE 

OF  THE  QUANTITY  OF  WATER  CONTAINED  IN  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE;  AKD 
ALL  ITS  CON  TRIBUTARY  LAKES  AND  RIVERS. 


Lake  Superior, 
Huron,    -  - 
Michigan,  * 
Erie,    -    -  - 
Ontario,    -  - 
St.  Lawrence, ' 
&  other  riv- 
ers &  smaller 
lakes. 


Medium 
Depth. 

900  ft. 

900  ft. 

900  ft. 

120  ft. 

492  ft. 


Superficial  Area 
in  feet. 

836,352,000,000 

557,5  68,000,000 

376,898,400,000 

418,176,000,000 

200,724,480,000 

41,176,000,000 


Solid  Contents 
in  feet. 

752.716,800,000,000 

501,81  1,200,000,000 

339,208,560,000,000 

50,181,120,000,000 

98,756,444,160,000 


83.520.000,000 


12,430,894,880,000  !1 ,742,757,644,1  60,000 


tl&  RlVfiti  ST,  LAWRENCE.  ftET.  IX. 

Incredible  as  it  will  appear  to  yourself  and  most  other 
persons,  it  is  nevertheless  a  fact  thai  this  enormous  mass  of 
fresh  water  is  here  underrated,  and  yet  amounts  to  more 
than  one  half  of  all  the  fresh  water  on  this  planet.  This 
'Unequalled  source  of  water,  you  will  perceive,  propels  d«wn 
the  St.  Lawrence  a  stream  that  flows  with  nearly  equable 
quantity  throughout  the  year.  Amongst  the  many  traits  of 
singularity,  that  give  to  the  St.  Lawrence  a  character  ol 
unity,  none  is  more  distinctive  than  the  unchangeable  quan- 
tity and  velocity  of  its  current. 

Another  problem  now  presents  itself  for  solution,  that  is 
the  quantum  of  discharge,  which,  though  very  large,  dees 
not  bear  a  proportion  to  the  mass  contained. 

Three  places  present  themselves  from  where  the  dis- 
charge can  be  calculated  with  most  precision  ;  opposite 
Black-Hock,  in  the  Niagara  Strait,  and  above  Ogden's  Isl- 
and, at  the  Narrows,  or  at  Point  Iroquois.  At  all  of  these 
places,  the  whole  volume  is  contracted  into  less  than  a  mile 
In  width,  but  flowing  with  great  velocity.  In  estimating  the 
mean  discharge  of  rivers,  a  general  mistake  is  prevalent,  to 
assume  the  upper  current  as  that  of  the  whole  river.  Al- 
io wing  the  St.  Lawrence  to  be  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide 
at  any  of  the  places  I  have  pointed  out,  and  to  flow  three 
miles  an  hour,  with  a  mean  depth  of  fifty  feet,  the  result 
would  be,  that  4*4ransverse  section  of  the  river  would  con- 
tain 105,600  superficial  feet,  which  multiplied  by  15,8*0  the 
lineal  feet  contained  in  three  miles,  would  yield  1,072,701,000 
cubic  feet  as  the  hourly  discharge.  This  estimate  exceeds 
by  more  than  one  half,  the  quantity  I  formerly  calculated 
for  the  expenditure  of  the  Mississippi  j  (see  Appendix  No.  2,) 
and,  though  contrary  to  my  opinion  when  I  first  arrived  on 
the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  I  am  convinced  falls  below 
reality.  The  greater  surface  drained  by  the  Mississippi, 
is  counterbalanced  by  a  much  greater  evaporation  than 
takes  place  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Yours  respectfully. 


LET.  ft] 


SACKET's  HAKB6S. 


±19 


LETTE3,  X. 

$ac!:ti'$  Harlor,  July  ZQlli,  18±S. 

DfiAR  Sir, 

I  left  Ogdensburgh  the  day  before  yesterday,  and 
came  on  in  the  Steam-Boat  to  this  village,  from  which  I  ex- 
pect to  set  out  in  a  few  hours. on  my  tour  or  voyage  west- 
ward. The  extracts  I  have  transmitted  from  Mr.  Bou- 
chette,  will  have  given  you  the  general  outline  of  the  natu- 
ral features  of  the  St.  Lawrence  ;  it  will  be  only  necessary 
for  me  to  condense  a  recapitulation  of  the  minute  features, 
to  which  1  have  been  more  particularly  a  witness. 

With  partial  exceptions,  the  banks  of  this  great  stream 
rise  by  acclivities  of  more  or  less  inclination,  from  the  mar- 
gin of  the  water  to  often  half  a  mile  distance,  and  from 
thence  become  more  level  in  retiring  farther  from  the  river. 
The  soil,  except  among  the  granitic  rocks  of  the  Thousand 
islands,  is  extremely  fertile. 

That  part  of  its  shores  which  I  have  traversed,  lies  in 
the  counties  of  St.  Lawrence  and  Jefferson,  in  the  state  of 
New-York,  and  is  divided  into  the  townships  of  Houndsfield 
which  includes  this  village,  Lyme,  Brownville,  formerly  Pen- 
net's  square,  Le  Ray,  in  Jefferson  j.  Eossie,  Hague,  Oswe- 
gatehie,  Lisbon,  and  Madrid,  in  St.  Lawrence.  On  the  Can- 
ada shore,  in  ascending  from  opposite  Hamilton,  I  traversed 
the  point  of  the  township  of  Matilda,  in  the  county  of  .Dun- 
das  ;  of  Edwardsburg  and  Augusta,  in  the  county  of  Gren- 
ville,  and  of  Elizabethtown  and  Yonge,  in  the  county  of 
Leeds. 

In  many  respects  this  is  amongst  the  most  remarkable, 
and  certainly  is  one  of  the  most  diversified  tracts  on  the  St, 
Lawrence.  In  the  whole  range  from  Broekville,  in  Eliza- 
beth township,  as  far  as  I  descended,  the  shores  of  Canada 


an 


HlVtU  ST.  LAWRENCE; 


[let.  X. 


present  one  expanse  of  cultivated  land.  The  farms,  from 
the  regular  ascent  of  the  ground,  Lave  a  fine  effect  when 
seen  from  the  river  or  opposite  shore.  From  the  season  of 
my  arrival  and  residence,  I  had  a  good  opportunity  to  see  tho 
rapid  advance  of  vegetation.  On  the  20th  of  May,  very 
littie  progress  in  the  foliage  of  spring  was  perceptible,  and 
vet  the  first  of  June  was  ushered  in  in  all  the  richness  of 
vernal  green.  I  have  seen  nothing  to  prepossess  my  mind 
with  a  favorable  idea  of  Canadian  fanning,  yet  the  crops 
appear  abundant  ;  orchards  are  neglected,  though  in  apples 
and  pears  very  productive.  Meadows  have  a  peculiar  rich 
aspect,  and  no  doubt  reward  their  cultivators  with  an  over- 
flowing recompense. 

The  U.  S.  shore,  from  its  recent  settlement,  remains  most- 
ly in  woods,  but  where  cleared  presents  a  similar  aspect  with 
the  opposing  bank.  The  progress  of  improvement  on  the 
side  of  New-York,  has  been  no  doubt  retarded  by  the  land 
remaining  in  the  hands  of  a  few  wealthy  owners,  who  by 
demanding  excessive  prices,  and  by  other  injudicious  ar- 
rangements, have  contributed  to  turn  the  tide  of  emigration 
into  other  channels. 

The  timber  is  excessive  for  its  quantity,  variety,  and  gi- 
gantic size.  I  had  often  an  occasion  to  make  a  remark  on 
t'lis  subject,  which  lam  unabhTto  explain.  When  I  return- 
ed to  the  middle  states  from  the  rallies  of  Ohio  and  Mis- 
sissippi, I  was  every  where  from  Richmond  to  Boston,  struck 
with  the  diminutive  size  of  the  forest  trees,  This  impres- 
sion continued  until  I  visited  the  upper  Mohaw  k,  where  the 
trees  commenced  to  present  the  enormous  trunks  every  where 
seen  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  waters.  As  I  advanced 
northwards,  and  particularly  below  the  Thousand  islands* 
the  hemlock,  sugar  maple,  linden,  elm,  pine,  and  two  or 
three  species  of  hickory,  rose  to  a  majesty  of  size  and  ele- 
vation sufficient  to  excite  admiration  and  astonishment.  The 
white  pine  in  the  neighborhood  of  Ogdensburg,  affords  often 
masts  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  feet  in  length. 


LET.  X.] 


RIVER   ST.  IAWttE5X'E. 


121 


Oak  is  rare,  and  when  k  occurs  docs  not  rival  ia  weight  of 
wood  the  oilier  trees.  Excessive  labor  is  indispensable,  in 
clearing  from  its  natural  state,  land  covered  with  suefo  a 
dense  forest  ;.  formidable  as  it  is,  it  is  failing  daily,  before  tho 
farmers  and  (he  lumber  workmen.  Though  so  many  more 
attractive  allurements  have  drawn  emigration  south- 
west, yet  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are  peopling  slow  - 
ly. The  caprices  of  mankind  are  difficult  to  reconcile. 
With  a  soil  at  least  equal,  and  with  a  climate  incomparably 
more  congenial  to  their  habits,  it  is  curious  that  the  north- 
ern emigrant  has  so  often  neglected  the  banks  of  Si.  Law- 
rence to  seek  thore  of  the  Mississippi. 

Coldness,  barrenness,  and  asperity  of  surface,  are  the 
features  in  which  the  fancy  of  the  people  of  our  middle 
states  have  clothed  this  country.  No  deception  was  cer- 
tainly ever  more  complete.  The  reverse  is  the  fact  in  eve- 
ry point.  It  is  doubtful  with  me,  whether  any  part  of  the 
earth  can  exhibit  a  more  delicious  summer  than  this  suppo- 
sed region  of  frost.  Spring,  in  the  acceptation  of  that  term 
as  commonly  applied  in  the  middle  and  southern  states,  does 
not  here  exist.  The  transition  from  winter  to  summer  occu- 
pies but  a  few  days  ;  and  all  seasons  are  accompanied  with 
the  highest  behest  of  heaven,  health.  The  pale  cadaverous 
visage  of  hopeless  disease  is  seldom  seen.  If  the  inhabit  - 
ants earn  their  bread  by  the  sweat  of  their  brow,  they  eat 
it  with  a  good  appetite.  I  am  confident  that  the  lumber 
trade  has  been  a  severe  injury  to  the  inhabitants,  and  has 
had  no  little  agency  in  preventing  a  more  rapid  advance  of 
settlement  and  increase  of  wealth.  I  did  not  converse  with 
one  man  on  the  subject  that  did  not  give  that  opinion  deci- 
dedly, and  some  even  with  bitterness.  It  is  a  business  with 
excessive  labor  in  its  pursuit,  and  with  poverty  and  hunger 
for  its  common  reward.  Of  all  the  occupations  of  man, 
where  the  soil  will  admit  culture,  lumber  merchandize  is 
perhaps  the  most  exceptionable  ;  and  yet,  with  all  its  obvi- 
ous ruinous  consequences,  hundreds,  upon  a  soil  of  exube- 

K 


123 


RIVER  ST.  I.AWKENCE. 


[LET.  X. 


rant  fertility,  spend  their  lives  between  cutting  and  floating 
timber,  and  wretchedness  and  dependence. 

Small  grain  such  as  wheat,  rye,  oats,  and  barley,  grow 
extreme  ly  well.  Indian  corn  here,  as  in  most  places  where 
late  and  early  frosts  frequently  occur,  must  be  a  precarious 
crop,  yet  it  is  much  cultivated,  and  I  am  credibly  informed 
often  yields  a  good  product  of  twenty -live  or  thirty  bushels 
to  the  acre. 

Bottom  land,  in  the  sense  understood  in  the  middle  states, 
there  is  none  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  Upon  the  banks  of  the 
Potomac,  Susquehanna,  Delaware,  Hudson,  and  some  of  the 
rivers  of  New  England,  alluvial  bottoms  are  found,  compo- 
sed of  the  debris,  carried  down  by  the  overflowing  of  the 
streams  from  towards  their  sources,  and  deposited  in  the 
form  of  rich  flats.  This  latter  kind  of  soil  exists  on  the 
Potomac,  near  Washington  City  ;  on  the  shores  of  the  Sus- 
quehanna, near  Hatrisburg  ;  on  the  Delaware  river,  above 
Philadelphia  to  Trenton  ;  above  and  below  Albany  on  Hud- 
son ;  in  Connecticut,  on  the  banks  of  Housatonick,  Wal- 
lingford,  and  more  particularly  Connecticut  river.  Viewing 
St.  Lawrence,  I  have  frequently  endeavored  to  imagine  a 
river,  with  whose  scenery  you  were  acquainted,  and  to 
which  this  river  bore  a  strong  analogy  ;  but  I  knew  none 
possessing  those  strong  resemblances,  where  preconceived 
images  could  give  an  accurate  conception  of  unseen  objects. 
The  east  bank  of  Hudson  below  the  Highlands,  and  both 
banks  of  that  river  from  New  burg  to  Red-Hook  ;  the  banks 
of  the  Mohawk  below  the  Little  Falls,  and  these  of  Con- 
necticut river,  near  Middletown,  afford  landscapes  whose 
features  have  many  traits  of  comparison  with  those  of  St. 
Lawrence  ;  but  with  a  tarn  ewss  unseen  and  unknown  on  that 
noble  stream.  Tt  is  comparing  an  ir  fant  to  a  man,  a  pigmy 
to  a  giant,  or  a  rill  to  a  torrent,  to  compare  any  of  the  east- 
ern streams  of  the  United  States  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

I  have  alrrad  ,  si  ewn.  that  the  Mississippi  and  its  conflu- 
ents present  features  so  different;  that  nothing  but  contrast 


LET.  X.] 


RIVER  ST.  LAWEKNGE. 


can  be  drawn  between  them  and  the  Si.  Lawrence.  In  pas- 
sing from  one  stream  to  the  oilier,  a  new  world  opens  to  the 
traveller,  the  face  of  nature  changes,  the  objects  are  of  new 
species,  almost  of  new  genera,  and  it  is  difficult  to  conceive 
ourselves  upon  the  same  planet* 

In  nothing,  however,  do  the  two  rivers  so  essentially  dif- 
fer as  in  their  islands  ;  those  of  the  Mississippi,  like  the 
banks  of  that  mighty  stream,  arc  flat,  many  of  them  sub- 
ject to  overflow,  none  marshy  ;  those  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
are  mostly  elevated,  never  entirely  level  unless  marshy,  and 
always  of  an  exuberantly  rich  soil*  Both  rivers  are  che- 
quered with  islands,  but  those  islands  have  characters  es- 
sentially different  j  those  of  the  Mississippi  follow  the  di- 
rection of  that  river*  and  seldom  occur  in  groups  ;  those  o^ 
the  St.  Lawrence  lie  scattered  promiscuously  upon  the  face 
of  its  current,  and  are  almost  always  grouped* 

Of  the  islands  of  St,  Lawrence,  after  those  of  the  Thou- 
sand islands,  the  most  remarkable  are  the  Gallops,  and 
those  in  their  vicinity.  You  will  reoiember  that  I  have  re- 
marked, that  the  St.  Lawrence*  from  a  little  below  Brocks 
ville  to  three  orfour  miles  below  Ogd<-nsburgh*  was  entirely 
free  of  islands  ;  then  commence?  a  large  group,  of  which 
that  of  the  ancient  Fort  Levi  is  the  first  in  descending,  and 
that  of  Presque  Isle  above  point  Iroquois  the  last.  I  notice 
particularly  these  islands,  as  they  are  a  good  representation 
of  the  islands  of  'frat  river  generally. 

When  descending  the  river  in  the  middle  of  May,  I  was 
particular  impressed  with  the  peculiar  features  of  these 
islands  and  being  afterwards  employed  to  survey  them  and 
the  adjacent  shores,  became  necessarily  intimate  with  their 
position. 

Some  miles  above  OgdCnsburgh,  even  opposite  Brock- 
ville,  a  slight  current  is  perceptible,  which  very  gradually 
increases,  and  at  isle  Fort  Levi  has  assumed  considerable 
force.  In  the  space  between  Hroekville  and  isle  Levi,  the 
river  varies  in  breadth  from  one  to  one  and  a  half  miles  ;  hut 


S1VEU  ST.  X.AWRENCE. 


[let.  X, 


at  isle  Levi  dilates  to  near  two  miles  wide.    To  the  north 
of  isle  Levi  lie  a  number  of  others,  whose  names  being 
merely  local  1  omit,  hut  whose  situation  and  appearance  arc 
in  the  highest  dcgrc  e  elegant  ami  agreeable.    Upon  tw*o  of 
this  group,  our  commissioners  encamped,  and  upon  one  of 
which  was  given  (he  .fete  chumpctre  I  have  already  noticed. 
Still  lower  down,  commences  the  cluster  more  particularly 
designated  as  the  GALLOP  ISLANDS.    Here  the  river 
is  divided  by  the  principal  island  into  two  channels,  in  each 
of  which  the  current  runs  with  great  velocity  over  ledgrs  of 
schistose  limestone.     Below  the  grand  Gallop  lie  scatter- 
ed (en  or  twelve  more  islands,  between  which,  as  also  along 
the  shore,  the  stream  flows  very  irregularly  a:ul  with  great 
velocity.    Still  lower  down  than  the  Gallops,  and  three  miles 
distant  are  two  islands,  past  which  the  river  continues  to  run 
with  the  velocity  of  a  cataract.    The  line  between  the  (own- 
ships  of  Ed  wards  burg  and  Matilda,  and  of  consequence  be- 
tween the  counties  of  Grenville  and  Dundas,  strikes  the 
river  opposite  the  Gallop  islands  and  rapid.    A  short  dis- 
tance below* this  line  the  river  is  united  again  into  one  vol- 
ume, which  in  two  places,  point  Iroquois  and  the  Narrows, 
is  contracted  into  less  ihym,  half  a  mile  wide,  with  a  very 
deep  and  rapid  current.    Ogck^s  island,  opposite  Hamilton, 
again  divides  the  St.  Lawrence  into  two  unequal  volumes,  the 
main  stream  being  on  the  Canada  shot**.    From  this  place, 
though  the  river  presents  two  parts,  as  fk«>  F-apid  Plat  and 
Long  Said,  which  arc  marked  as  cataracts,  ^ct  in  reality 
from  Hamilton  to  lake  St.  Francis,  the  whole  tost  a  nee  is 
a  rapid  running  \Vhh  great  violence.    Thc.-i£p  of  latitude  is 
rendered  in  a  particular  manner  remarkable,  by  striking  the 
liver  at  the  head  of  lake  St.  Francis;  here  the  stream, 
which,  from  the  head  of  the  Gallops  has  run  with  such  pro- 
digious velocity,  becomes  tranquil,  and  expands  into  a  lake 
of  near  thirty  miles  in  length  by  three  or  four  in  width,  with, 
in  many  parts,  low,  marshy  shores.    Lake  St.  Francis  con- 


XST.  *.J 


IMVEU  ST.  XAWUENCE. 


125 


tracts  at  its  lower  extremity  into  (he  rapid  of  the  Cedres,  be> 
low  which,  though  the  river  occasionally  flows  with  much 
rapidity,  it  gradually  loses  its  current  in  the  level  of  the 
tides. 

Between  Montreal  and  Ogdensburgh,  the  navigation  of 
this  great'  river  is  laborious,  in  some  measure  precarious, 
and,  without  much  skill  and  care,  dangerous.  It  is  a  com- 
pliment to  (he  vigijanpe  aad  foresight  of  the  boatmen  who 
conduct  the  various  rafts  and  vessels,  that  so  few  accidents 
occur.  A  kind  of  keel  boat,  of  nearly  equal  size  prow  and 
stern,  is  the  ordinary  mode  of  transporting  merchandize 
from  and  to  Montreal  as  high  as  Kingston.  These  boats* 
are  managed  with  great  dexterity  by  the  Canadians,  who 
handle  with  equal  adroitness  poles  and  oars.  The  rapids 
are  often  so  strong  as  to  oblige  the  boatmen  to  use  a  drag 
line,  and  it  is  wonderful  the  patience  with  which  these  mm 
continue  their  exertions,  against  the  force  of  the  stream. 
Descending  demands  little  less  labor,  and  more  attention 
than  ascending. 

Taken  as  a  whole,  I  cannot  conceive  of  a  more  pleasing 
region  than  that  along  both  shores  of  (he  St.  Law  rence,  and 
when  the  United  States'  shore  is  as  well  cultivated  and  im- 
proved as  the  Canadian,  it  will  be  a  voyage  of  real  pleasure 
to  pass  along  its  current. 

The  islands  were  claimed  by  the  St.  Regis  Indians,  who 
have  made  a  sale  of  their  right  to  the  soil,  to  David  A.  Og- 
den,  Esq.  Except  Mr.  Ogdcn's  own  residence  near  Hamil- 
ton, and  a  few  settlements  made  upon  the  grand  Gallop 
under  lease  from  the  Indians,  those  incomparably  beautiful 
islands  are  mostly  uninhabited.  Their  settlement  would  add 
very  greatly  to  the  decoration  of  the  scenery  of  the  country. 
Human  imagination  could  form  an  idea  of  places,  where 
more  elegance  of  s^te  and  prospect  would  be  combined, 
than  on  almost  a#  of  these  islands.  The  fine  seat  of  Mr. 
Ogden, -opposite  Hamilton,  is  an  example.    Clearing  away 

K2 


±26 


GENEVA. 


[LET.  XI. 


(heir  shores  would  also  facilitate  navigation,  by  enabling 
boatmen  to  take  more  advantage,  than  is  now  in  their  power, 
«}f  the  opposing  eddies  and  currents. 

Yours, 


LETTER  XI, 

Geneva,  July  22,  181& 

Bear  Sik, 

Bt  the  route  of  Great  Soilus  bay-  I  arrived  yesterday 
in  this  village.  I  left  Sacket's  Harbor  on  Sunday,  and  from 
adverse  winds,  could  not  make  Sodus  before  Monday  morn- 
ing, and  Mas  detained  there  until  Tuesday  morning,  I  did 
not  regret  the  detention,  as  it  enabled  me  to  examine  the 
bay  and  adjacent  shores  with  some  attention. 

The  bay  of  Great  Sodus,  lies  partly  in  Seneca  and  partly 
in  Ontario  counties*  the  division  line  running  south  from  the 
bead  of  the  bay5  having  on  the  west,  the  township  of  Sodus 
the  north-east  angle  of  Ontario,  and  on  the  east,  the  tow  n- 
ship of  Wolcott,  the  north-west  angle  of  Seneca  county  ; 
with  two  villages,  Troupsville  in  Sodus,  standing  on  the 
point  between  the  bay  and  lake  Ontario,  and  port  Glasgow 
standing  at  the  head  of  the  bay  in  Woleott.  Neither  of 
these  \iil  s  are  yet  of  mueU  consequence,  but  will  no  doubt, 
keep  pace  with  the  progress  of  Oie  adjacent  country. 

I  have  seen  no  map  whereon  Sov\lls  is  very  correctly  de- 
lineated J  on  both  Lay's  and  Eddy's  ma^  die  mouth  is  too 
wide  and  not  represented  as  much  land  Wkcd,  as  it  is  in 
fact.  Two  points  project  towards  each  othei  from  the  op- 
posing sides  of  the  bay,    The  western  most  of  these  pointy 


XET.  XI.] 


50BUS. 


127 


is  composed  of  loose  sand  and  pebbles,  lip  along  (he  lake, 
and  is,  indeed,  only  the  rubbish  thrown  up  by  the  perpetual 
surf  which  bears  Hie  shore.  About  half  a  mile  from  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  western  point,  an  island  lies  in  the  mouth  of 
the  baji  united  to  the  main  shore  by  a  natural  causeway, 
also  formed,  no  doubt,  by  the  surf  of  the  lake.  The  space 
between  the  island  and  point  is  the  entrance  into  Sodus,  has 
about  8  feet  water,  and  leads  into  an  excellent  harbor,  safe 
from  all  winds. 

The  siiores  of  lake  Ontario,  both  east  and  west  of  Sodus, 
are  composed  of  vast  banks  of  earth,  twenty  or  thirty  feet 
high,  and  every  where  yielding  to  the  abrasion  of  the  waters 
of  the  lake.  One  dense  and  continuous  forest  covers  the 
shore,  occasionally  relieved  by  new  farms.  The  country  is 
extremely  beautiful,  picturesque  and  variegated,  around  the 
bay.  .  The  soil  excellent*  At  the  time  1  was  there,  the 
fields  were  yet  covered  with  grain,  harvest  being  rather  in 
its  commencement  than  completed.  This  circumstance 
gave  me  some  surprize  ;  I  hud  been  often  told  that  to 
the  west  of  Saekei's  uarbor,  the  climate  became  more 
mild  in  a  given  latitude.  The  phenomena,  visible  to  me 
since  my  arrival  here,  does  not  tend  to  give  force  to  the 
correctness  of  such  an  opinion.  Sodus  stands  in  N.  lat.  43° 
20*  and  very  nearly  due  north  from  Washington  City. 

July  21st,  at  8  o'clock  A.  M.  I  left  Sodus  and  proceeded 
towards  this  place.  I  found  the  intermediate  stationary  dis- 
tances nearly  as  follows  : 

Miles. 

From  Sodus  to  Griffith's,  -  -  —5 

Reynold's,  -  5—8 

Village  of  Lyons,  -  -  -  8 — 16 

Geneva  Church,  .  -  „  g — %^ 

Village  of  Geneva,  -  -  *  6—30 

On  leaving  Sodus,  the  road  follows  the  bluffs  of  Ontario 
two  miles,  frequently  in  view  of  the  lake  ;  it  then  turns  to 
abruptly  south,  willing  along  the  western  side  of  Sodus 


[let.  •  XJ. 


bay,  and  (hence  over  the  ancient  alluvion  of  lake  Ontario 
to  Reynold's.  What  is  called  (he  ridge  road  or  natural 
turnpike  is  passed  at  Griffith's.  Contiguous  to  Sodus  the 
surface  of  the  ground  is  broken-*  the  vallies  are,  however, 
only  the  fissure  worn  sinee  the  rece  ssion  of  lake  Ontario  j¥ 
as  when  the  height  of  the  table  land  above  the  bay  is  attain- 
ed,, a  plain  of  great  extent  commences  with  very  little  as- 
perity of  surface.  It  is  evident  that  lake  Ontario  has  re- 
ceded at  different  times.  The  natural  turnpike  is  upon 
the  alluvial  •plain  ;  upon  this  ancient  shore  of  the  lake  its 
waves'  must  have  beat  many  centuries,  and  yet  incontestable 
document  exists  to  prove,  that,  for  perhaps  as  many  or  more 


*  FROM  THE  ROCHESTER  TELEGRAPH. 

"  Something  for  Geologists. — In  sinking  a  well  at  Carthage,  a 
short  time  since;  the  workmen  discovered  twelve  or  fifteen  ft'Ogs, 
t^bedcM  in  a  layer  of  close  compacted  marl,  about  nine  feet 
belqw  tl  e  surface.  Particular  care  was  taken  to  discover  whe- 
ther any  communication  vvith  the  surface  could  have  existed  ;  but 
it  was  satisfactorily  shewn  that  there  was  none.  They  were  of  a 
li  brbWn  (Color,  apparently  about  half  grown,  and  very  active. 
Tfoey  \ere  in  a  kind  of  nest,  like  mice,  and  appeared  to  be  iso- 
I  i>  om  the  rest  of  animated  nature.  We  have  heard  of  frog* 
be  sf.  Sfecdv-fereti  in  tiecs,  and  in  rocks  ;  but  have  never  before 
v  itiu  ssed.  them  so  far  under  ground.  In  sinking  the  same  well  about 
foiii  feet  farther,  several  more  frogs  were  discovered  in  a  layer 
of  loose  sand,  totally  disconnected  with  the  superincumbent  stra- 
tum, or  with  any  possible  communication  with  the  exterior.  It  is 
believed  by  the  writer,  that  they  have  existed  therefrom  the  period 
of  the  recession  of  lake  Ontario*,  which  is  probably  not  less  than  a 
thousand  years:  if  so,  their  longevity  surpasses  that  of  Thomas 
Farr  of  the  moderns,  or  Methuselah  of  the  ancients,  and  deserves 
to  be  recorded.  The  doubter  is  challenged  to  produce  his  rea- 
sons. •  X. 

44  Carthage,  Nov.  7,  1818." 

Though  I  do  not  believe  the  last  recession  of  lake  Ontario  to 
have  taken  place  within  a  thousand  years  past,  I  have  published 
the  iaboVe  as  a  curious  fact,  both  in  the  revolutions  of  our  globe 

fl  in  the  laws  of  animal  life.  Many  instances  are  however  on 
record  of  cold  blooded  animals  existing  in  marl,  limcstcrcy  and 
marble. 


.XET.  XI.] 


laYONS. 


centuries,  (his  lake  must  have  had  a  surface  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  above  the  natural  turnpike. 

At  Reynold's  the  alluvial  plain  terminates,  and  a  very 
rugged,  hilly  region  commences.  The  transition  is  abrupt, 
and  here  from  every  appearand**,  was  the  original  south 
shore  of  lake  Ontario  ;  at  times  the  remoteness  pi  which  I 
have  not  the  temerity  to  attempt  a  calculation.  Above 
Reynold's,  the  road  leaves  the  alluvial  piain  and  ascends  the 
hills  by  a  gorge,  over  the  mouth  of  which  is  a  natural  cause 
way,  which  was  evidently  formed  by  a  process  similar  to  that 
which  formed  the  points  of  Sodus  bay  and  the  natural  cause- 
way, though  at  least  thirty  feet  above  the  latter. 

The  timber  from  Sodus  to  the  hills  is  generally  composed 
of  hemlock,  sugar  maple,  red  oak,  black  oak,  elm,  and  lin- 
den, the  soil  extremely  fertile  though  too  flat  ;  and  very 
much  mixed  with  rounded  granitic  pebbles. 

The  face  of  the  country  from  Reynold's  to  Lyons  is  ex- 
cessively broken  ;  the  hills  are  not  very  elevated,  but  ex 
tremely  abrupt  and  steep  with  a  fertile  soil.  Lyons  stands 
upon  the  bank  of  the  outlet  of  Canandaigua  lake,  a  short 
distance  below  where  that  outlet  joins  JViud  creek.  The 
village  occupies  the  verge  of  the  hills,  and  stands  upon  a  ve- 
ry broken  site.  The  route  of  the  grand  canal  is  traced 
through  Lyons,  and  up  the  valley  of  Mud  creek  to  its  source. 
The  outlet  is  a  large  creek,  with  banks  much  more  resem- 
bling a  bayou  of  lower  Louisiana  than  a  water  course  of  the 
state  of  New-York.  Lyons  has  a  Nourishing  appearance 
amid  a  fine  increasing  settlement. 

Crossing  the  Canandaigua  outlet  J  found  myself  upon  a 
country  generally  level,  but  not  so- talncJy  qniform  as  the 
alluvial  plain  of  Ontario.  Cultivatio  i  now  increased  at  ev- 
ery step;  the  soil  excellent,  fine  farms,  meadows  and  orch- 
ards on  every  side,  which  continued  to  the  village  of  Ge- 
neva. 

This  is  one  of  the  few  towns  in  America  named  from  i 
tswn  in  Europe,  where  common  sense  and  analogy  were  eon* 


GENEVA. 


[iET.  XI. 


suited  in  the  borrowed  nomenclature.  Geneva  stands  in  the 
township  of  Seneca,  Ontario  county,  at  the  lower  extremity 
of  Seneca  lake.  It  is  built  along  the  margin  of  the  lake 
extending  about  half  a  mile  in  length.  The  site  of  the  vil- 
lage is  truly  delightful,  standing  upon  a  waving  ridge  lying 
parallel  to  and  rising  50  or  60  feet  above  the  water  in  the 
lake  j  the  view  of  which  is  extensive  and  romantic.  The 
opposite  shore  in  Seneca  county  rising  gently  from  the  wa- 
ter to  considerable  elevation,  clothed  with  timber  or  che- 
quered with  farms.  To  the  north  and  north-east  the  pros- 
pect is  also  charming,  and  is  now  a  sea  of  golden  grain,  rich 
orchard  or  meadow  ;  the  houses  appear  to  stand  in  an 
ocean  of  plenty,  I  have  never  visited  a  place  which  seems 
to  combine  in  so  small  a  compass  so  much  to  please  in  the 
softer  features  of  rural  landscape.  I  was  detained  here  one 
day,  and  amused  myself  in  walking  along  the  banks  of  this 
beautiful  lake,  and  could  not  avoid  exclaiming,  that  here, 
with  health  and  competence,  could  I  spend  the  remaining 
years  of  ray  life,  without  a  sigh  to  return  to  the  bustling 
commercial  capitals,  where  for  so  many  years  I  had  scarce 
enjoyed  a  quiet  day.  My  reveries  were  the  dreams  of  fan- 
cy excited  by  a  weariness  of  travelling,  the  painful  recollec- 
tion of  absent  family  and  friends  obtruded,  with  the  addi- 
tional subject  of  regret  that  every  day  carried  me  farther 
from  that  family  and  those  friends. 

We  are  seldom  left  without  some  subject  of  consolation. 
I  had  a  letter  from  Gov.  Clinton  to  Col.  Robert  Troup,  of 
Geneva,  which  procured  me  a  kind  and  friendly  reception, 
and  every  aid  in  the  prosecution  of  my  object.  To  this  can- 
did, gentlemanly  and  hospitable  old  soldier,  I  am  under  ob- 
ligations that  will  carry  their  recollection  lo  my  grave. 
To  meet  with  such  men  when  far  from  home  amongst 
Strangers,  excites  feelings*  that  no  man  need  attempt  to  im- 
agine, who  has  not  been  in  a  similar  situation  with  me,  when 
I  met  with  the  venerable  Col.  Troup. 


LET.  XT.] 


CAXAXDA1GUA, 


m 


Canandaigua,  July  2%,  1818, 
Yesterday  in  (he  afternoon  I  quit  wilh  regret  the  village 
of  Geneva,  and  proceeded  on  foot  towards  Canandaigua  $  the 
distance  is  16  miles  by  the  following  stages  : 


Seid's, 

—01 

Parson's, 

2—03 

Densniore's, 

1 — 04 

Torrence's, 

1—05 

Whitney's, 

2—07 

W.  D.  Murray's, 

3—10 

Hart's  &  Woodward's 

1—11 

Canandaigua, 

5—16 

The  day  was  excessively  warm,  and  towards  evening 
threatened  rain.  The  lowering  clouds,  however,  contribu- 
ted Co  give  additional  amusement  to  that  I  enjoyed  in  viewing 
the  truly  charming  country  through  which  1  whs  travelling. 
The  face  of  the  earth  has  in  the  intervening  distance  from 
Geneva  (o  Canandaigua,  neither  the  dead  monotony  of  the 
alluvial  plain  of  lake  Ontario,  or  the  harsh  features  of  the 
hilly  region  north  of  the  village  of  Lyons.  Hill  and  dale 
now  present  themselves  with  diversified  but  gentle  effect. 

When  I  had  reached  the  slope  that  leads  down  to  Canan- 
daigua lake,  evening  was  rapidly  advancing  ;  the  black  rain 
clouds  gathered  heavy  over  the  eminences  to  the  south  of 
the  "town  of  Canandaigua,  which  was  now  in  full  view  though 
three  miles  distant.  The  scenery  every  moment  became 
more  and  more  interesting,  and  my  mind  more  deeply  inter- 
ested. While  descending  the  steepest  part  of  the  hill,  I 
was  rapidly  passed  by  a  man  in  a  single  horse  carriage,  w  ho 
stopped  as  soon  as  he  gained  the  bottom  and  awaited  my  com- 
ing up,  and  very  frankly  invited  me  to  take  a  seat  beside 
him,  which  I  gratefully  accepted.  He  then  drove  rapidly 
forwards,  as  the  rain  commenced  to  fall  in  large  drops. 
When  we  came  to  the  lower  extremity  of  the  Canandaigua 
lake,  and  the  extensive  fields,  orchards  and  meadows  near 


13& 


CANANDAIGUA. 


[LET,  XI, 


the  town  came  in  view,  I  expressed,  my  admiration  at  th@ 
state  of  improvement  every  w  here  risible  ;  my  fellow  travel- 
ler replied— "  twenty  nine  ;;ears  ago  1  came  up  this  outlet, 
"  and  at  that  time  no  mark  of  the  human  hand  was  here  to 
"  bt*  seen,  except  those  made  by  savages*  a  village  of  whom 

existed  on  that  point/9 — shewing  me  the  lower  end  of  the 
now  Nourishing  town  of  Canandaigua.  I  could  r.ot  doubt 
bis  information,  though  there  was  something  in  the  short- 
ness of  the  period,  when  compared  with  the  effects  of  ho  man 
labor  under  my  eye,  that  seemed  almost  the  effect  of  magic* 

"We  arrived  at  the  public  house,  just  in  time  to  save  our- 
selves from  being  drenched  in  a  heavy  shower,  and  after  I 
bad  returned  him  my  acknowledgements  for  bis  politeness, 
he  informed  me  that  his  name  was  Yates,  and  that  he  was 
then  in  his  72d  year.  His  hale,  healthy  and  firii}  aspect* 
rendered  this  part  of  his  information  as  remarkable  as  his 
short  but  impressive  history  of  Canandaigua.  The  whole 
scene  was  in  fact  one  of  those,  which  was  calculated  to  ex- 
hibit the  rapidity  of  improvement  in  the  United  States* 
This  mm  entered  this  then  wilderness,  at  an  age  commonly 
considered  as  the  meridian  of  life,  43  years;  and  while-  yet 
in  the  vigor  of  his  limbs  and  faculties,  a  smiling  residence  ibr 
civilized  man  bird  arisen  under  his  eye. 

I  arose  this  morning  early,  in  order  to  examine  this  won- 
der of  western  New-York,  and  was  not  disappointed  in  my 
anticipations;  I  found  it  by  far  the  most  richly  built  town  of 
its  extent  I  had  ever  seen.  It  does  not  admit  of  comparison 
vith  Geneva ;  the  two  places  so  essentially  differ  in  their  lo- 
cality and  position  respecting  the  lakes  on  which  they  are 
built,  that  few  traits  of  resemblance  exist  between  them, 
Both  are  objects  of  astonishment  when  we  recollect  how 
short  a  period  has  elapsed  since  a  forest  occupied  their  po- 
sition. 

I  found  the  site  of  Canandaigua  to  be  that  of  ao  inclined 
plane,  rising  from  the  lower  extremity  of  the  lake  of  the 
same  name.    A  valley,  or  rather  bottom,  skirts  along  ihe 


XET.  XI,] 


CANANBAIGITA. 


133 


south  side  of  the  (own,  beyond  which  the  country  rises  into 
hills  of  considerable  elevation  ;  to  the  north  and  nortk-w^st 
extends  a  waving  but  not  hilly  country ;  the  east  side  is  oc- 
cupied by  the  lake  and  low  grounds  of  its  cutlet. 

The  town  extends  in  a  street  of  upwards  of  a  mile  m 
length  from  the  lake,  rising  by  a  very  gentle  acclivity.  Ma- 
ny of  the  houses  would  decorate  the  oldest  and  fnost  exten- 
sive cities  in  the  United  States,  and  from  a  number  of  places 
the  view  of  the  lake  and  surrounding  country  would  reward 
a  tour  of  considerable  distance.  I  sincerely  doubt  w  hether 
a  more  desirable  village  exists  in  the  United  States,  if  in  the 
world.  * 

*  On  my  return  from  the  westward,  and  during  a  few  days  stay  • 
at  Canandaigua,  the  following  statement  made  its  appearance  in 
the  Ontario  Repository.  I  have  not  the  least  doubt  of  its  cor- 
rectness, except  as.  respects  the  population,  which  is  certainly 
underrated  if  any  judgment  can  be  formed  upon  the  extent  of  the 
town  and  the  number  of  persons  that  are  to  be  seen  in  the  streets, 

"  THE  VILLAGE  OP  CANANDAIGUA. 

"  A  few  days  since,  three  gentlemen,  from  a  laudable  curiosity, 
volunteered  their  services  to  take  a  census  of  the  inhabitants  re^ 
siding  within  that  part  of  the  town  of  Canandaigua,  Which  is  in- 
corporated, as  a  village,  and  to  ascertain  the  number  of  buildings 
it  contains.  It  will  doubtless  be  interesting  to  our  citizens,  and 
gratifying  to  the  public,  to  know  the  result. 

"  From  the  statement  it  appears,  that  the  village  contains  1788 
souls,  of  whom  9J9  are  males,  and  £59  females,  and  including 
136  blacks,  of  whom  30  are  slaves.  Of  the  whole  number,  47  I 
are  under  the  age  of  10  years — 184<  between  10  and  2  1 — and 
over  21.  Of  buildings,  there  are  21/  dwelling-houses,  39  ston  > 
76  shops,  30  offices,  and  153  stables.  The  above  are  exclushe 
of  the  public  buildings,  viz.  one  congregational  meeting-house,* 
one  episcopal  church,  one  methodist  chapel  ;  a  court  house,  a 
jail,  and  a  county  clerk  s  office  ;  an  academy  and  five  school- 
houses.  Of  the  buildings,  we  believe  not  one  is  vacant,  except 
half  a  dozen  stores.  It  ought  to  be  added,  that  besides  the  aca- 
demy, which  is  undergoing  a  thorough  renovation,  and  the  com- 
mon and  Sunday  schools,  there  are  two  respectable  private  fe- 
male seminaries,  in  which  the  higher  branches  of  education  are 
successfully  taught.  The  style  of  building  may  he  said  to  be  not 
inferior  to  any,  since  travellers,  who  make  public  their  remarks, 
call  our  village  not  only  well,  but  extravagantly  built. 


££Jb  fUNANDAieVAk  [LET.  XI* 

Canandaigua  is  the  scat  of  justice  for  the  rich,  fertile*  and 
flourishing  county  of  Ontario,  and  occupies  one  of  the  most 
eligible  agricultural  and  commercial  positions  in  our  western 
country  ;  it  has  now  a  water  communication  with  the  Seneca 
river  by  the  outlet  of  its  Jake,  which  as  I  before  observed 
unites  with  Mud  creek  at  Lyons,  and  the  united  stream  meet- 
ing the  discharge  of  Seneca  and  Cayuga  lakes,  below  Monte- 
zuma, forms  Seneca  river.  The  peculiar  construction  of 
Shis  country  can  only  be  seen  by  recurrence  to  a  map  ;  either 
Lay's  or  Eddy's  exhibits  with  precision  the  interlocking  wa- 
ters ;  but  neither  have  attended  with  sufficient  care  to  the 
ranges  of  high  land.  The  best  map,  in  the  latter  respect* 
that  I  have  seen,  is  that  of  Mr.  John  H.  Eddy,  of  the  West- 
ern part  of  the  state  of  New- York,  published  in  1811.  As 
1  intend  to  give  you  a  recapitulation  of  the  peculiar  geologi- 
cal structure  of  the  route  of  the  intended  Grand  Canal,  and 
contiguous  parts,  I  will  enter  less  minutely  at  present  into  a 
topographical  review  of  this  neighborhood.  You  will  hear 
from  me  again  soon  after  my  arrival  at  Buffalo,  and  visit  to 
the  Falls  of  Niagara*  In  the  interim,  I  remain*  as  ever* 
Sincerely  yours. 

(e  The  above  surely  presents  a  flattering  account  of  the  prosper 
rity  of  the  pleasant  village  in  which  it  is  our  happiness  to  dwell 
While  other  places  round  about  us  boast  how  early  they  have 
become  great— how  by  magic  their  trees  have  been  converted 
into  houses — old  Canandaigua  has  been  growing  apace,  display- 
ing the  sturdy  vigor  and  healthful  aspect  of  natural  increase. 

u  Cut  flattering  as  tins  account  may  appear,  some  danger  is  to 
be  apprehended  from  the  number  of  taverns  and  groceries  em- 
braced in  the  limits  of  the  village.  Who,  that  has  not  counted 
them,  would  suspect  that  there  are  no  less  than  fourteen  taverns  ? 
Of  groceries,  there  are  also  too  many.  The  public  convenience 
does  not  require  such  a  number  of  inns,  and  their  toleration  can- 
not but  he  detrimental  to  the  morality  of  the  town.  Public  offi- 
cers, whose  duty  it  is  to  regulate  these  things,  should  recollect, 
that  it  is  much  easier  to  prevent,  than  to  root  out  the  evils  which 
grow  from  such  causes/' 


LET.  XI.]  ©It EAT  WESTERN  CANAL. 


135 


LETTER  XL 

[The  following  correspondence  took  place  after  my  return 
to  NewYork,  and  therefore  not  in  order  of  time  with  the  other 
communications  made  during  my  tour  ;  but  being  relevant  to 
the  subject  of  my  letter  from  Geneva  and  Canandaigtw,  1 
have  judged  it  most  expedient  to  insert  the  subject  in  this 
place.] 

Neiv-Fork>  October  2,  1818. 

William  Dauby,  Esq, 

Sir, — The  New-  York  Corresponding  Association  for  the 
Promotion  of  Internal  Improvements,  solicit  your  aid  and 
patronage  towards  the  great  objects  of  the  institution.  Will 
you  please  to  answer  the  following  questions  : 

1.  What  canals  and  water  communications  could  be  con- 
nected with  the  line  of  the  great  western  canal,  in  our  state, 
for  the  promotion  of  internal  improvements  ? 

2.  What  great  roads  could  be  united  to  tht  line  of  the  west- 
ern canal,  in  our  state,  for  the  promotion  of  the  same  object  ? 

3.  What  advantages  does  New-York  possess  over  New- 
Orleans  for  supplying  the  country  north-west  of  the  Ohi® 
river,  with  goods  and  merchandize  ? 

With  high  considerations  of  respect,  I  am,  sir, 
Your  ohd't  servant, 

CHARLES  G.  HAINES. 

Neiv-Fork,  October  11, 1818. 

Mu,  C.  G.  Haines, 

Sir— Yours  of  the  25th  ult.  was  duly  received,  but  the 
pressure  of  my  private  business  on  my  return  from  a  tour  of 
nearly  five  months,  prevented  an  earlier  attention  to  ydur 
communication*  Y7ou  request  my  opinion  in  the  first  instance 
upon — ► 


136 


ORG  AT  WESTERN"  CANAD.  [LET.  XII. 


What  canals  and  water  communications  could  be  con- 
nected With  the  line  of  the  great  western  canal,  in  oar  state, 
for  the  promotion  of  internal  improvements,55' 

The  most  obvious,  and  by  far  the  most  beneficial  water 
communication  iliat;  can  be  made  between  the  great  west- 
ern cana!  and  circumjacent  rivers,  is  (he  contemplated  canal 
between  the  head  of  Seneca  lake  and  the  Susquehanna. If 
the  two  canals  were  now  completed  as  far  as  Seneca  lake 
and  Cayuga  river,  the  inhabitants  of  Pennsylvania  and  New- 
York  states,  would  exchange  their  heavy  but  invaluable  ar- 
ticles of  coal,  gypsum,  salt,  iron,  and  pot  metal. 

Three  obvious  points  of  water*  connexion,  between  the 
great  western  canal  and  lake  Ontario,  present  themselves— 
by  the  Niagara,  Genesee  and  Oswego  rivers,  all  of  which 
are  obstructed  by  cataracts  of  more  or  less  depression  from 
(he  lowest  part  of  the  plane  of  the  canal  to  the  surface  of 
the  lake. 

Before  proceeding  farther  in  this  investigation,  permit  me 
io  make  a  few  geographical  remarks.  The  commercial  fa- 
cilities naturally  existing  between  the  Atlantic  states  and  the 
valleys  of  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Lawrence,}  may  be  divi- 
ded into  three  great  divisions ;  which  we  will  designate  as 
the  Northern,  Middle  and  Southern.    All  that  part  of  the 

*  In  ternal  Improvements. — It  appears  by  a  report  of  the  com- 
missioners appointed  to  explore  the  route  of  a  'contemplated  ca- 
nal, between  Seneca  lake  and  Tioga  river,  that  there  can  be  ob- 
tained a  supply  of  water  at  tiie  summit  level,  adequate  for  every 
purpose — that  the  fall  towards  Seneca  lake  is  140  feet,  and  will 
require 57  locks;  that  towards  Tioga  river  is  43  feet,  requiring  7 
locks.  The  length  of  the  canal  is  estimated  at  about  20  miles. 
Among  the  inducements  held  forth  for  opening  this  navigation, 
are,  the  transportation  of  military  stores  to  the  frontier,  in  the 
event  of  future  wars,  and  to  send  our  salt  and  plaster  to  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  to  receive  their  iron  and  coal  in  return.". — Niagara 
Fat  riot. 

t  By  the  valleys  of  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Lawrence  are  here 
meant,  all  the  region  watered  by  the  tributary  streams  of  these 
Biighty  rivers. 


X.ET.  Sal;] 


137 


continent  of  North  America,  watered  by  the  St.  Lawrence 
river  and  confluent  branches,  to  (he  north  of  Che  Falls  of 
Niagara,  must  have  a  commercial  outlet  and  inlet  by  that 
great  rivef,  through  Montreal  and  Quebec, — South  and 
Southwest  of  the  Rapids  of  Ohio,  at  the  town  of  Louisville, 
the  produce  of  human  industry  will  pass  to  New-Orleans, 
and  the  articles  of  necessity  and  luxury,  not  found  in  the 
country,  will  be  purchased  in  that  city.  Between  the  Chute 
of  Niagara  and  that  of  Loui&ville,  from  the  Allegany  moun- 
tains to  the  sources  of  the  rivers  of  lake  Superior,  w  ill  form 
the  middle  commercial  district,  and  New-York,  Philadel- 
phia and  Baltimore,  will  divide  the  profits  of  exchange  ; 
Cincinnati,  Pittsburg,  Detroit  and  Buffalo,  will  be  in  the  mid- 
dle, what  Kingston  and  York,  in  Upper  Canada,  will  be  in 
the  northern,  and  what  Louisville,  St.  Louis,  Natchez  and 
Natchitoches  will  be  in  the  southern  division.  Partial  inter- 
communications  may,  and  no  doubt  will,  daily  occur  in  com- 
mercial- exchange  between  the  points  of  contact  of  these 
natural  sections,  but  these  interchanges  must  be  viewed  as 
exceptions  to  a  great  permanent  rule  formed  by  nature  her- 
self* 

In  examining  the  subject  of  any  improvement,  MAN 
uught  to  seek  what  is  practically  useful,  and  not  exhaust  upon 
idle  fanciful  speculation,  what  is  due  to  attainable  objects  of 
real  utility.  A  water  route  from  the  Atlantic  ocean  to  the 
immense  western  waters,  has  now  arrested  the  attention  of 
the  most  enlightened  citizens  of  New-York  and  Pennsylva- 
nia;  and  the  subject  is  one,  upon  which  the  pens  of  ttie 
ablest  politicians  or  economists  of  these  great  states,  may 
be  most  beneficially  employed.  It  is  an  object  worthy  the* 
deepest  reflection  of  a  public  mind,  at  once  rich  in  experience 
and  strong  in  moral  youth.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  in  the 
developement  of  our  natural  advantages*  local  prejudices* 
party  and  personal  animosities  should  impede  the  progress  of 
rational  research.    It  is  wretched  logic,  to  confound  ques* 

L 


GREAT  WESTERN  CANAL. 


[LET.  XII. 


Hons  of  national  interest,  with  the  trifling  views  of  faction, 
or  the  narrow  conceptions  of  corporation  politics. 

I  have  met  with  two  works  on  a  similar  subject ;  one, 
"A  topographical  description  of  the  province  of  Lower 
Canada,  and  on  the  relative  connexion  of  both  provinces, 
with  the  United  States  of  America."  By  Joseph  Boi> 
ciiETTE,  Esq. 

The  other,  «  A  Sketch  of  the  Internal  Improvements  al- 
ready made  by  Pennsylvania ;  with  observations  upon  her 
physical  and  fiscal  means  for  their  extension ;  particularly 
as  they  have  reference  to  the  future  growth  and  prosperity 
of  Philadelphia."    By  Samuel  Breck,  Esq. 

Whoever  reads  attentively  these  two  treatises,  will  I  regret 
to  say,  find  very  nearly  as  much  liberality  from  Mr.  Bou- 
chette,  respecting  the  United  States  in  general,  as  from  Mr. 
Breck,  when  contrasting  the  city  of  Philadelphia  with  the 
neighbouring  cities  of  New-York  and  Baltimore,  and  partic- 
ularly New-Orleans.  The  latter  writer^indeed  appears  in 
one  point  to  extreme  disadvantage,  he  seems  to  consider 
Pennsylvania  as  an  incidental  or  secondary  object,  when  in- 
eluded  in  the  same  prospect  with  her  commercial  capital ; 
Mr.  Bouchette,  to  his  credit,  extends  his  views  to  the  causes 
which  may  lead  to  the  aggregate  prosperity  of  all  the  Cana- 
das,  and  does  not  confine  his  anticipations  to  Quebec. 

To  a  reader  unacquainted  with  the  relative  political  posi- 
tion of  affairs  on  this  continent,  both  ot  these  writers  would 
appear  to  be  inhabitants  of  countries  environed  with  rival  and 
even  hostile  states.  This  spirit  of  rivalry  is  as  injurious  as 
a  generous  emulation  would  be  beneficial  to  the  progress  of 
improvement.  The  inherent  principles  of  human  nature 
will,  however,  operate,  maugre  all  that  sophistry  can  op- 
pose to  their  progress.  Men  will  carry  their  superabun- 
dance to  the  best  markets,  whether  in  New-York,  Philadel- 
phia, Baltimore,  New-Orleans,  or  elsewhere. 

Mr.  Breck,  page  13,  anticipates  the  time  when  the  com- 
merce of  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  be- 


LET.  XII.]  GREAT  WESTEUX  CANAX. 


130 


yond  the  mouth  of  Ohio,  will  come  to  Philadelphia ;  in  fine, 
that  an  era  will  arrive  when  human  beings  will  toil  1,600 
miles  mostly  up  stream,  to  obtain  a  worse  market  than  they 
could  find  by  floating  down  stream  half  (he  distance.  If  this 
prophecy  is  e.ver  realized,  the  old  proverb,  *<  go  farther  and 
fare  worse,'5  will  receive  a  very  remarkable  application. 

I  notice  Mr.  Breck's  work  as  it  embodies  much  of  the 
common  place  philosophy  on  the  subject  upon  which  I  am 
now  descanting.  To  consider  that  gained  to  Pennsylvania 
which  is  lost  by  New-York,  or  vice  versa  is  just  about  as 
correct,  as  it  would  be  for  an  individual  to  desire  a  palace 
for  a  residence  with  mud-walled,  thatched-covered,  hovels, 
to  decorate  the  prospect  from  its  portals.  In  fact,  the  ad- 
vance of  any  city  or  state  of  our  common  country  has  a  re- 
flective effect ;  the  science,  wealth,  and  liberal  institutions 
of  any  part,  must  shed  their  kindly  Ueams  upon  the  whole, 
and  (he  illumination  must  be  stronger  in  direct  ratio  to  ap- 
proximation to  the  centre  of  light. 

But  to  return  to  our  subject.  The  relative  territorial  ex- 
tent of  the  three  great  commercial  sections  of  the  central 
parts  of  our  continent,  Is  as  nearly  as  I  estimate  them,  as 
follows : 

sq.  MILES. 

Valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence  below  Niagara,  210,000 
Middle  or  central  section,  320,000 
South  and  southwestern  section,  1,200,000 
Each  of  these  grand  divisions  have  their  appropriate  ad- 
vantages, which  it  is,  and  will  continue  to  be  the  duty  of  the 
inhabitants  respectively  to  improve.     Of  the  three,  the 
greatest  number  of  practical  and  indispensable  canals  and 
roads,  can  and  will  be  formed  in  the  middle  or  central  sec- 
tion.   Until  the  completion  of  the  great  Western  Canal  be- 
tween the  waters  of  the  river  Hudson,  and  those  of  lake 
Eric,  that  between  the  Seneca  lake  and  the  Susquehanna 
river,  and  that  between  the  Hudson  river  and  lake  Cham- 


SUIi.iT  WESTERS  CANAL. 


[let.  XII* 


plain,  no  others  ought  to  be  ever  seriously  thought  of  by  the 
citizens  of  this  state. 

Your  second  inquiry  is,  "  What  Great  Roads  eould  be 
united  to  the  line  of  the  Western  Canal,  in  our  state,  for  the 
promotion  of  the  same  object  ?'* 

This  latter  inquisition  would  admit  of  a  much  wider  range 
than  the. former,  if  pursued  in  all  its  details;  there  is 
scarcely  live  miles  upon  the  whole  line  of  the  canal,  from 
which  useful  and  necessary  roads  may  not  be  drawn ;  but  of 
these,  two  obtrude  themselves  to  immediate  notice.  One  to 
the  village  of  Hamilton  upon  the  Allegany  river,  in  Cata- 
raugus  county,  and  the  other  between  the  towns  of  Buffalo 
and  Hamilton,  The  lately  perceived  importance  of  these 
two  latter  places,  has  prevented  their  having  excited  the  in- 
terest they  so  eminently  deserve.  The  proper  point  of  eon- 
tact  with  the  canal,  or  its  confluent  waters,  by  the  Hamilton 
road,  is  something  difficult  to  fix  with  precision.  Geneva, 
and  Canaudaigua,  present  each  some  respective  advantages 
of  position  when  contrasted  with  each  other*  and  have  eith- 
er a  decided  superiority,  as  points  of  departure,  over  any  oth- 
er places  in  this  state.  I  have  visited  both  these  (owns,  and 
from  information  there  received,  have  no  doubt  but  that  ex- 
cellent roads  can  be  formed,  from  each  to  Hamilton,  at  no 
extraordinary  expense.  If  I  was  called  upon  to  dictate  a 
plan  upon  this  subject,  I  would  direct  the  formation  of  a 
turnpike  road  from  both  Geneva  and  Canaudaigua,  in  the  di- 
rection towards  Hamilton.  These  roads  should  converge 
somewhere  in  the  northwest  angle  of  Steuben  county,  at  or 
near  the  village  of  Dansviile,  or  Arkport,  and  run  thence 
to  Hamilton  by  Angelica.  No  loads  that  could  be  possibly 
formed  in  this  stale,  in  addition  to  those  already  made,  would 
produce  so  great  and  immediate  benefits,  as  these  I  have 
traced.  If  this  route  was  laid  open  by  good  roads,  it  would, 
even  independent  of  the  Grand  Canal,  become  instanter  the 
thoroughfare  between  (he  New-England  states  and  the  Ohio 
Valley.    To  those  who  are  acquainted  with  (he  extent  and 


hET.  XII J  GREAT  WESTERS  CAXAt,  Jft 

mass  of  the  title  of  emigration  now  setting  southwest,  and 
annually  increasing,  the  advantages  of  such  a  route  will  be 
apparent.  Much  eEnharrassment  is  now  experienced  by  em- 
igrants from  Massachusetts,  New-Hampshire  and  \  crmont 
states,  for  the  want  of  a  direct  and  easy  mci*ns  of  transpor- 
tation to  Pittsburgh.  No  part  of  the  western  territory  of 
New-York  is  so  thinly  peopled,  as  the  country  included  la 
Steuben,  Allegany  and  Cataraugus  counties;  good  roads 
would  tend  greatly  to  encourage  settlement. 

Though  not  equal  in  importance  or  necessity  with  the 
roads  from  Hamilton  to  Canandaigua  and  Geneva,  yet  a 
good  solid  road  from  Hamilton  to  Buffalo,  would  be  of  great 
utility  and  convenience  to  the  people  who  inhabit  the  extreme 
western  section  of  this  state.  In  a  military  point  of  view, 
the  latter  road  would  be  of  incalculable  advantage  in  a  war 
with  Great  Britain,  in  opening  more  extensively  than  ai  pre- 
sent exists,  lines  of  ready  communication  with  our  interior 
and  Canadian  frontier. 

It  is  much  to  be  desired  that  a  good  road  was  also  carried 
from  Hamilton  to  Pittsburg.  In  execution  of  such  a  work, 
the  people  of  New-York  and  those  of  Pennsylvania  ought 
to  act  in  concert  :  both  parties  are  deeply  interested,  though, 
the  former  rather  more  than  the  latter,  as  the  country  upon 
the  Allegany  is  yet  but  thinly  inhabited*  From  the  influ- 
ence of  frost  in  winter  and  heat  in  summer,  many  of  otu* 
rivers  are  rendered  useless  as  channels  of  communication, 
often  half  the  year.  This  is  the  case  with  all  our  interior 
streams  north  of  Maryland.  Durable  roads  are,  therefore, 
as  indispensable  as  canals,  and  in  places  where  heat  may  ex- 
haust or  cold  congeal  water,  roads  and  canals  ought  to  be 
formed  co  existent,  and  made  in  their  turn  subservient  to 
the  facility  of  human  intercourse,  ;|nd  the  augmentation  of 
human  enjoyment. 

The  road  from  Utica  to  Sacket's  Harbor,  though  already 
epen,  demands  very  extensive  improvements,  I  travelled 
fhrs  route  in  the  scemd  week  of  last  May,  asd  found  manv 


142 


Gil  RAT  WESTERN  CANAL. 


[LET.  XII. 


parts  in  a  wretched  state.  The  season  was  indeed  exti  emcly 
inclement  ;  n  time,  therefore,  that  the  roads  could  not  he 
expected  to  afford  pleasant  travelling  ;  but  if  they  were  well 
formed  and  preserved  with  care,  they  will  at  least  always 
secure  safe  conveyance.  It  would  be  waste  of  time  to  point 
out  the  very  high  importance  of  a  goal  road,  solid  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  from  the  interior  of  the  state  of  New- 
York,  to  the  most  exposed  and  by  far  the  most  valuable  mili- 
tary and  naval  station  on  our  Canadian  border. 

The  following  are  the  stationary  distances  of  each  of  the 
proposed  roads,  as  near  as  I  have  been  able  to  estimate.  The 
distance  and  stations  upon  the  road  from  Utica  to  Sacket's 
Harbor,  were  taken  from  the  former  to  the  latter  town. 
The  others  arc  taken  from  Eddy's  Map  of  New -York,  a  very 
meritorious  work  lately  published  : 

Jlilcs. 

From  Utica,  over  the  alluvion  of  the  Mohawk 

river,  -  -  -  1  1-2 

Height  of  land  between  the  Mohawk  and  hike 

Ontario,  -  -  -  .3  1-2—5 

Tillage  of  Trenton,  -  8  13 

Sugar  Creek,  one  of  the  head  branches  of 

Black  river,  -  -  -  23  36 

Thus- far  the  road  is  now  tolerable,  but  from  Sugar  Creek 
it  fellows,  generally,  the  valley  of  Black  river,  and  is  in  ma- 
ny places  barely  passable,  in  the  spring  season. 
Martinsburgh,  seat  of  justice  for  Lewis  coun- 
ty, -  -  -  14  3-4—50  3-4 
Lowville,          -          -                     -3  1-2—54  1-4 
Deer  river,  a  large  and  impetuous  branch  of 
Black  river— a  good  wooden  bridge  where 
the  road  passes,          -          -          -      10 — - — 04  3-4 

Watertown,  on  the  left  bank  of  Black  river,  16  SO  3-4 

Brownville,  right  bank  of  Black  river,         4  84  3-4 

Jacket's  Harbor,         -         -  .       *       §  ~— 92  3-4 


LET.  XII.] 


GREAT  WESTERN  CANAL 


1*3 


A  direct  road  runs  from  Watertown  to  Backet's  Harbor, 
distance  8  miles,  but  at  (he  time  I  travelled  the  country,  this 
latter  road  was  pronounced  impassable.  I  was,  therefore, 
obliged  to  take  the  more  circuitous  route  by  Brownville,  and 
of  course  traverse  Black  river  twice.  Good  bridges  have 
been  formed  over  that  precipitous  stream,  at  Watertown  and 
at  Brownville. 

Route  from  Geneva  to  Hamilton. 
Height  of  land  between  Canandaigua  and  Crooked 

lakes,  -  -  -  -  30 

Arkport,  -  -  -  -  -     20— -50 

Angelica,  -  -  -  -  -    20  70 

Hamilton,  -  -  -  -  -    30 — 100 

Intersecting  route  with  the  above,  from  Cannadaigua. 
Naples,  -  -  -  20 

Arkport,  -  -  -  -       23 — ;±3 

From  the  foregoing  it  will  be  seen,  that  the  distance  from 
Geneva  is  100,  and  from  Canandaigua  93  miles,  to  Hamilton. 
The  land  distances  could  be  shortened  by  passing  by  water 
from  Geneva,  through  the  Seneca  and  Crooked  lakes,  and 
from  Canandaigua,  by  the  Canandaigua  lake.  If  the  proposed 
roads  were  made,  it  is  probable  they  would  intersect  near 
the  Conhoetoa  branch  of  Susquehanna,  or  between  the  Con- 
hocton  and  Arkport.  Diverging  roads  could  be  easily  form  - 
ed from  the  main  lines  to  the  heads  of  Canandaigua,  Seneca, 
and  Crooked  lakes,  and  thus  open  still  more  extensively  the 
channels  of  transportation,  in  a  very  improvable  and  im- 
proving country. 

From  the  head  of  Crooked  lake  to  Bath  or  the  Conhoc- 
ton,  is  only  about  5  miles.    From  Bath,  rafts  and  boats  can 
be  and  have  been  conveyed  down  the  Conhocton  into  the  main 
stream  of  Tioga,  and  finally  into  the  Susquehanna  river. 
Route  from  Hamilton  to  Buffalo. 

MILES. 

Cataraugus  Creek,         -       -       -      -      -  30 
Buffalo,  -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -  30^-60 


GKF.AT  WEJTEKJT  GANAL. 


[LET.  XII. 


This  distance  is  measured  upon  the  map  direct  ;  it  is  not, 
however,  probable,  that  a  road  could  in  reality  be  made  in 
less  llraii  70  or  75  miles  between  Buffalo  and  Hamilton.  The 
face  of  the  country  from  the  Allegany  river  to  Cataraugus 
creek,  at>d  for  some  considerable  distance  north  of  the  lat- 
ter stream,  rises  info  high  hills.    The  road  would  cross  the 
faille  land  between  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  those  of  lake 
Erie.    It  may  not  be  irrelevant  to  remark,  in  this  place,  a 
circumstance  of  considerable  import  in  the  investigation  of 
the  subject  of  the  connexion  between  lake  Erie  and  Ohio 
river.    Jlv  actual  admeasurement,  as  reported  by  Mr.  Gal- 
latin, Brownville,  or  rather  the  Monongahela  river  at  thai 
town,  is  elevated  850  feel  above  tide  water  in  Chesapeake 
Bay  ;  and  by  careful  measurement  made  in  preparing  for 
the  commencement  of  the  great  western  canal,  the  surface 
of  lake  Erie  is  elevated  565  feet  above  the  tide  water  in  th& 
Hudson  river  at  (he  city  of  Albany.    From  this  data,  the 
Monongahela  at  Brownville,  is  285  feet  higher  than  the 
surface  of  lake  Erie.    I  am  well  acquainted  with  the  Mo- 
nongahela river  between  Brownville    and  Pittsburg,  and 
cannot  be  induced  to  consider  the  waterfall  from  the  former 
to  the  latter  place  above  45  or  50  feet  perpendicular :  which 
estimate,  if  correct,  w  ould  yield  a  fall  of  nearly  £50  feet 
from  Pittsburg  to  Buffalo.    This  statement  will  be  relieved 
from  all improbability  by  a  very  cursory  glance  upon  a  map 
of  our  continent.     The  muel)  greater  distance  from  Pitts- 
burg to  tide  waler  ia  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  than  from 
Buffalo  to  tide  water  in  St,  Lawrence  river  wiH^he  apparent, 
It  has  been  found  from  actual  survey,  as  marked  upon  Ed- 
dj's  map  of  Niagara  river,  that  the  difference  of  level  be- 
tween lake  Erie  and  Ontario  is  334  feet.    Supposing  the 
gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  rml  the  Hudson  river  at  Albany  to  be 
on  a  level,  and  the  distance  cannot  be  considerable,  there 
are  565,  less  334,  or  231  feet  as  the  fall  of  water  from  the 
bottom  of  lake  Ontario,  to  tide  water  in  St.  Lawrence  river  ; 
a  prodigious  depression  for  the  distance,  and  amply  accounts 


GREAT  WESTERN  CAXAL. 


for  (he  rapidity  of  (he  rapids  a(  Grand  Gallop,  Point  Iro- 
quois, Rapid  Plat,  Grand  Suut,  and  St.  Mary's  Rapid  helovr 
Montreal* 

Assuming  (lie  above  heights  and  depressions  as  correct, 
(here  will  be  about  250  feet  from  any  inicrtenifig  point  more 
depression  (o  reach  the  waters  of  lake  Erie  (ban  those  of 
the  Ohio  a(  Pittsburg*  The  dividing  ridge  approaches  in 
Cataragus  county,  near  Portland,  within  less  than  five  mile* 
of  lake  Erie.  Sailing  along  (hat  lake,  within  about  three 
miles  from  the  New- York  shore,  this  ridge  appeared  to  me 
to  be  1000  feet  high  ;  some  of  its  points  I  was  then  led  to 
believe  at  least  200  feet  still  more  elevated  than  the  general 
range  of  the  hills.  About  20  miles  S.  W.  of  Buffalo  this 
ridge  first  appears  distinctly  visible  from  Lake  Erie,  and 
continues  in  view  beyond  the  town  of  Erie,  and  from  (hence 
gradually  retires  into  the  state  of  Ohio ;  in  clear  weather  it, 
however,  remains  in  sight  from  the  lake,  even  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Sandusky  bay.  Huron  and  Cayahoga  rivers  in- 
dent it,  and  when  opposite  the  mouths  of  these  streams  it 
disappears,  but  in  the  intervening  space  rises  prominent 
above  the  adjacent  country. 

Your  third  and  last  subject  of  enquiry  is,  "What  advan- 
tage does  New-York  possess  Over  New-Orleaus,  for  supply- 
ing the  country,  north-west  of  the  Ohio  river,  with  goods  and 
merchandize  P* 

To  this  interrogatory,  I  would  answer  briefly,  that  as 
matters  now  stand,  it  would  be  nearly,  if  not  altogether  as 
idieap,  to  ship  goods  and  merchandize  from  the  former  to 
Hie  latter  city,  and  have  (hem  thence  transported  by  water 
to  Cincinnati,  or  even  to  Pittsburg,  as  it  would  be  to  con- 
vey them  by  the  embarrassing  land  and  water  routes  now  ex- 
isting between  the  Hudson  and  Ohio  rivers.*    The  complex 

*  On  this  subject  I  have  since  found  that  I  was  mistaken,  as 
the  following  documents  will  show.  If  in  the  present  situation 
of  affairs,  goods  can  be  transported  as  stated  from  New-York  to 
Pittsburg,  consequences  flowing  from  the  Grand  Canal  are  easy 
to  foresee— -a  very  great  commercial  revolution* 


±10  GREAT  WESTERN  CANAL.  [LET.  XII. 

lion  of  the  canal  from  the  Mohawk  to  the  Seneca,  and  a  good 
road  from  thence  to  Hamilton,  would,  if  nothing  else  was 
done,  change  the  face  of  affairs.  New-York  would  then  en- 
joy the  benefits  of  her  nearer  approximation  to  the  water  of 
the  Ohio  ;  she  would  he  enabled  to  counterbalance,  by  her 
existing  capital,  the  superior  local  advantages  of  New-Or- 
leans ;  and  she  would  forever  preserve  her  now  relative  rank 
amongst  the  cities  of  the  United  States.  If  a  direct  water 
tommunication  was  open  with  lake  Erie,  the  resources  of 

FROM  THE  ALBANY  ARGUS. 

"  In  our  columns  of  to-day,  will  be  found  an  advertisement  for 
the  transportation  of  merchandize  to  the  western  states  and  ter- 
ritories ;  and  we  have  likewise  subjoined  the  printed  lists  of  routes 
to  Pittsburg,  through  the  stale  of  New- York,  and  cannot  but  ex- 
press our  astonishment  that  the  efforts  of  the  adventurer  to  ac- 
quire for  this  state  so  very  lucrative  a  branch  of  commerce,  have 
hitherto  been  unaided  by  an  enlightened  public.  From  the  above 
mentioned  list  it  appears,  that  by  two  routes  property  can  be  con- 
veyed from  the  city  of  New-York  to  Pittsburg,  in  the  state  of 
Pennsylvania,  for  five  dollars  per  cwt. ;  by  a  third  at  five  dollars 
and  a  half,  and  by  a  fourth,  at  five  dollars  and  three  quarters  per 
cwt.  The  largest  estimate  as  to  time,  does  not  exceed  forty  days  $ 
the  residue  thirty  to  thirty-five  days. 

"  It  has  been  said,  that  the  western  merchants  are  generally  anx- 
ious to  buy  their  goods  in  New- York,  where  assortments  are  more 
easily  obtained,  at  a  cheaper  rate,  than  at  Philadelphia  :  but  that 
the  risk  and  delay  of  the  voyage  by  sea,  or  the  expense  of  land 
carriage,  from  New- York,  compels  them  to  give  the  former  place 
a  preference  :  in  fine,  that  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  have  re- 
gular  forwarding  establishments  on  which  the  western  trader  can 
jit  all  times  rely  ;  while  New-York  for  want  of  capital  or  enter- 
prize,  cannot  afford  them  the  same  accommodation. 

"  The  object  of  the  advertiser  appears  to  be,  to  convince  the  mer- 
chants of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee,  by  offering  to  them  the  choice 
of  four  distinct  routes,  that  New-York  possesses  advantages  su- 
perior to  those  of  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland  ;  that  in  no  case 
will  his  charge  per  cwt.  equal  that  of  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore 
per  hundred  pounds ;  and  that  if  the  purchases  be  made  in  the 
city  of  New- York,  the  mode  of  conveyance  now  recommended, 
on  the  score  of  safety  and  expedition,  must  claim  a  decided  pre- 
ference 

"  We  confess  ourselves  converts  to  the  correctness  of  his  opin- 
ions—indeed, all  doubts  are  removed  by  the  circumstance  of  his 


LET.  XII.] 


GREAT  WESTERN1  CANAL. 


147 


the  state  and  this  city  w  ould  be  si  ill  more  enlarged.  We 
have  been  in  the  habit  of  undervaluing  the  regions  watered 
by  the  confluent  waters  of  the  Canadian  lakes.  The  real 
fact  is,  that  in  many  respects  the  countries,  contiguous  to  ti  e 
great  chain  of  interior  seas,  are  superior  to  most  parts  of 
our  continent  of  equal  extent.  The  soil  is  generally  good, 
and  every  where  produce,  in  abundance,  the  Cereal  gram  in  a. 
To  the  west  of  Niagara,  as  far  as  lake  Superior,  the  cli- 
mate is  mild.    All  the  shores  of  lakes  Erie  and  Michigan* 

engagement  to  transport  at  those  prices  ;  and  it  is  no  more  than 
justice  to  express  our  conviction,  that  Mr.  Smyth  would  not  un- 
dertttke  what  he  cannot  perform.  Apart  from  the  advantages 
which  would  accrue  to  those  of  our  citizens,  who  are  immedi- 
ately concerned  in  this  carrying  trade,  the  general  interests  of 
our  state  would  be  greatly  promoted  by  the  success  of  the  con- 
templated project.  The  mere  expenditure  of  one  million  of  dol- 
lars* per  annum,  at  which  the  transportation  from  Philadelphia 
and  Baltimore  to  Pittsburg  has  been  calculated,  enormous  as  the 
amount  may  be  considered,  would  be  trifling  in  comparison  to  the 
increase  of  active  commerce  in  our  cities — of  the  immense  ac- 
cession of  patronage  and  support  to  our  steam-boats  and  other 
numerous  establishments  in  the  interior. 

<;  The  trouble  and  expense  of  maturing  these  extensive  ar- 
rangements, must  have  been  sufficient  to  appal  and  discourage 
an  ordinary  mind.  Mr.  Smyth  deserves  great  praise  for  his  en- 
terprize  and  perseverance,  and  when  we  consider  the  interest 
w  hich  the  state  has  at  stake  in  the  success  of  the  undertaking,  we 
most  heartily  wish  that  this  public  spirited  individual  may  fully 
realize  the  fruition  of  his  hopes." 

"Albany,  \  6th  November,  1818. 
<•  I  take  the  liberty  to  lay  before  you  the  annexed  Advertise- 
ment and  List  of  Routes  to  Pittsburg.  In  addition  to  the  state- 
ments therein  contained,  allow  me  to  inform  you,  that  during  the 
w  inter  season,  transportation  to  kuy  point  west  of  Albany  can  be 
obtained  at  very  reduced  prices.  If  goods  therefore  were  pur- 
chased in  New- York  immediately  before  the  closing  of  the  river, 
and  shipped  to  this  city  to  wait  for  sleighing,  they  can,  beyond  a 
doubt,  be  delivered  at  O'ean  for  $2.50  per  cwt.,  with  a  certainty 
of  reaching  Pittsburg  on  or  about  the  first  of  April.  Winter 
transportation  between  New- York  and  Albany  never  exceeds 
three  dollars,  and  is  frequently  no  more  than  two  dollars  per  cwt. 

*  We  have  seen  this  expense  stated  at  three  millions  of  dollars  per  annum, 


GREAT  WESTERS  CAN  At; 


[LET*  XII. 


undercut  pari  of  those  of  Huron,  will  afford  fine  settle- 
merits.  With  but  very  few  exceptions,  those  regions  are 
healthy  and  supplied  with  excellent  water. 

Let  the  produce  of  their  labor  pass  where  it  may,  the 
number  of  human  beings  that  are  now  daily  pasiing  Buffalo 
will  soon  dissipate  the  forests  and  supply  their  places  with 
towns,  villages,  farm-houses,  fields,  meadows,  orchards,  and 
gardens.  The  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  lands  of  the 
strait  of  Erie,  are  now  a  specimen,  of  what  in  forty  years 
will  be  the  landscape  from  Niagara  to  Chieaga* 

u  Although  the  navigation  of  the  Allegany,  from  Olean  to* 
Pittsburg,  may 'be  depended  upon  more  safely  in  the  spring  and  au- 
tumn than  during  the  summer  months,  yet  a  person  well  acquaint- 
ed with  that  river  has  engaged  to  convey  for  me  any  quantity  of 
property,  at  least  once  a  week,  and  appears  to  feel  the  utmost 
confidence  in  his  ability  to  reach  Pittsburg  at  all  times  between. 
April  and  December,  in  eight  days. 

u  Respectfully  soliciting  your  influence  in  favor  of  the  under- 
taking, I  remain 

"  Your  most  Obed't  Serv't. 

«  CHARLES  SMYTH." 

u  TRANSPORTATION  TO  PITTSBURG,  THROUGH  THE  STATE  OF 
NEW-YORK. 

"  The  subscriber  having  lately  formed  a  connexion  with  a  gen- 
tleman residing  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Allegany  river,  again 
offers  his  services  to  the  Merchants  of  the  Western  States  and 
Territories,  as  agent  to  transport  property  of  every  description 
from  the  city  of  New- York  to  Pittsburg,  in  the  state  of  Pennsyl- 
vania. Assortments  of  goods,  (not  single  packages,  or  those 
whose  bulk  is  out  of  all  proportion  to  their  weight)  if  shipped  at 
New- York  on  board  the  sloops  of  the  6  Western  Lin»,'  will  be 
delivered  at  Pittsburg  for  Five  Dollars  per  cwt.,  all  charges, 
except  cooperage,  included.  Six  months  credit,  with  interest, 
will  likewise  be  given,  when  demanded,  for  approved  New- York 
or  Albany  acceptances. 

"  For  more  particular  information,  printed  lists  of  the  several 
New- York  routes  have  been  transmitted  to  Messrs.  Richard  Bow- 
en  &  Co.  Pittsburg,  and  Mr.  Benjamin  Armitage,  No.  54  Pine- 
street,  New-York. 

«  CHARLES  SMYTH, 

"  Albany,  \6th  November,  1818." 


XEX.  Xll.j 


GLE11  WESTERN  CANAL. 


119 


Jt  is  a  very  gratifying  anticipation,  to  behold  in  our  fancy 
the  epoch  to  come,  when  this  augmenting  mass  of  population 
will  enjoy,  in  the  interior  of  this  vast  continent,  a  choice 
collection  of  immense  marts,  where  the  produce  of  the 
banks  of  innumerable  rivers  and  lakes  can  be  exchanged,, 


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GREAT  WESTERN  CANAL. 


[XET.  Xii. 


on  or  near  (he  shores  of  (he  Atlantic  ocean  for  the  conven- 
iences of  Europe,  and  (he  luxuries  of  the  Indies. 

In  the  Edinburgh  Review,  for  June,  1818,  when  speaking 
of  Mr.  Morris  Birbeck's  tour  in  America,  and  the  stream 
of  population  passing  from  the  borders  of  the  Atlantic  ocean 
into  the  region  we  now  call  relatively  western  :  occurs  this 
remarkable  passage  : 

w  Where  is  this  prodigious  increase  of  numbers,  this  vast 
extension  of  dominion  to  end  ?  What  bounds  has  nature  set 
to  (he  progress  of  this  mighty  nation?  Let  our  jealousy 
burn  as  it  may  ;  let  our  intolerance  of  America  be  as  un- 
reasonably violent  as  we  please  ;  still  it  is  plain  that  she  is  a 
power  in  gpitjp  of  us,  rapidly  rising  to  supremacy  ;  or,  at 
least,  that  each  year  so  mightily  augments  her  strength,  as 
to  overtake,  by  a  most  sensible  distance,  even  the  most  for- 
midable of  her  competitors.  In  foreign  commerce  she  comes 
nearer  to  England  than  any  other  maritime  power,  and  al- 
ready her  mercantile  navy  is  within  a  few  thousand  tons  of 
our  own  !  if  she  goes  on  as  rapidly  for  two  or  three  years, 
she  must  overtake  and  outstrip  us." 

Such  are  the  impressions  already  made  in  Europe  by  our 
existing  state,  such  the  views  of  our  future  progress  !  The 
bounds  that  nature  may  have  in  preparation,  to  limit  the 
prosperity,  wealth,  power  or  science,  of  the  people  of  the 
United  States  will  never  be  seen  by  either  you  or  me.  With 
sentiments  of  sincere  esteem,  I  am,  dear  sir,  yours, 

WILLIAM  DARBY, 

Charles  G.  Haines,  Esq.""] 
Cor.  Sec'ry.  of  (he  Socie-  V 
ty  for  (he  Promotion  of  f 
Internal  Improvement.  J 


JJST.  XII I.  BUFFALO;  151 


LETTER  XIII, 

Buffalo,  July  31,  1818. 

Dkar  Sir, 

On  the  24th  inst.  I  left  Canandaigua,  and  arrived  here  on 
the  27th,  I  have,  as  usual  remitted  the  stationary  distances, 
as  by  recurrence  to  particular  places  I  can  more  clearly 
convey  precise  information  upon  the  topography  of  the  coun- 
try. 


Miles. 

Canandaigua  to  Ross's, 

—2 

Bates's  &  Shaw's, 

- 

2  4 

Steel's, 

1  —5 

Loomis's, 

1  6 

Carter's 

1  —7 

Church  in  Bloomiield, 

1  8 

Eggle's, 

2  1-2—10  1-2 

West  Bloomiield, 

3      —13  1-2 

Honeoy  creek, 

1.2—14 

Minor's, 

1-2—1  i  l-£ 

Tinker's, 

1  i-2— 16 

Lima  Church, 

1  1-2 — 17  1-2 

Brown's  in  Avon, 

g  1-2—21 

W.  T.  Hosmer's, 

3  —24 

Albert  Hosmer's, 

2  —26 

Genesee  river  arid  bridge, 

3-4—26  3-4 

Sylvester  Hosmer's, 

3  1-2—30  1-4 

Caledonia, 

3  1-2 — 33  3-4 

Nash's, 

2  1-2—36  1-4 

Ganson's  in  Leroyville, 

2  3-4—30 

Clark's, 

4  —43 

Daniels's, 

2  —45 

152 


BUFFALO. 


[1.ET.  XIII. 


Miles. 


Churchill's. 

2 

— 17 

J*!  ecocide/  ftti'a  — 

1  1-2—13  1-2 

■2 — 51 

AlpClriiokon'^  hriilefi  over 

Ton  new  an  (a 

—55 

M  lil/UA  3,                   •  • 

—  J/ 

X  UUaylvj  s9 

TVTiipi'Ipp  prppk.  - 

JTl  Ul  Uvl.    l/l  ttl\) 

-                -  O 

— oij 

rTftl  fUPQ's                    -  - 
Jl.UlIllv.3  3, 

X 

— ui* 

1  Ui It l  3, 

8 

—77 

Miller's. 

J.?  JL 1 1 1  v.' 1  3, 

—81 

Hcnshaw's, 

1 

—82 

IJopkin's, 

1 

—83 

Atkins's, 

«  -  3 

—86 

Averill's, 

3  1 

-2—88  1  2 

BUFFALO, 

2  1 

-2—91 

Leaving  Canandaigua,  the  country  along  the  road  for  sev 
eral  miles  continues  flat,  and  in  some  places  even  swampy. 
The  soil  exuberantly  fertile,  timber,  sugar  maple,  elm,  lin- 
den, white  hickory,  ash,  hemlock,  and  some  oak.  The 
farms  have  a  fine  appearance,  and  the  whole  country  seemed 
in  a  state  of  rapid  improvement.  The  rapidity  in  which  the 
public  houses  succeed  each  other,  evince  the  great  publicity 
of  the  road. 

Great  pains  have  been  taken  in  West  New-York,  to  open 
and  render  convenient  the  highways  ;  but  in  few  countries 
are  the  construction  of  good  roads  more  difficult.  The  rich 
fertility  of  the  soil,  and  its  depth  of  vegetable  mould,  though 
so  very  desirable  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view,  oppose 
very  serious  obstacles  against  the  formation  of  roads.  In 
the  winter  season,  unless  when  the  surface  is  completely  fro- 
zen, travelling  must  in  this  quarter  be  very  difficult  and 
painful. 

Approaching  Bloomfield,  a  very  great  change  in  the  as* 
peat  of  the  ground  is  visible  ;  the  dull  monotony  now  disap* 


LET.  XIII.] 


GENESEE  UIVBR. 


pears,  hills  gradually  rise  into  considerable  elevation.  A 
circumstance  is  here  apparent  (hat  is  really  a  mutter  of  as- 
tonishment. As  you  perceive  the  surface  of  the  earth  swel- 
ling into  eminences,  you  find  the  ridges  all  lying  parallel  to 
each  other,  and  to  the  chain  of  lakes  which  form  the  Seneca 
river.  This  configuration  continues  to  Buffalo,  and  to  the 
Falls  of  Niagara.  In  many  parts  of  the  road  I  found  my- 
self continually  rising  and  falling  over  this  chain  of  ridges  5 
and  could  not  avoid  observing,  that  if  their  intervening  val- 
lies  were  filled  with  water,  a  cluster  of  islands  would  be  pro- 
duced, of  astonishing  resemblance  to  that  of  the  Gallops  in 
St.  Lawrence  river.  The  ridges  have  the  same  regular 
globular  swell  which  you  will  remember  I  have  noted,  as 
characteristic  of  the  features  of  the  Gallops. 

Schistose  limestone  extremely  fissured,  is  the  first  rock 
that  is  seen,  overlaid  by  sand,  rounded  pebble,  and  vegetable 
earth.  No  farther  change  worth  notice  occurs  between 
Canandaigua  and  Genesee  river.  That  stream  has  a  very  di- 
minutive aspect.  I  am  convinced  that  all  travellers  are  dis- 
appointed in  their  anticipations  of  its  volume.  When  I  pas- 
sed the  Genesee,  its  waters  were  rippling  over  its  pebbly  bed 
at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  but  narrow  channel,  of  not  above 
50  yards  in  width.  A  good  substantial  covered  wooden 
bridge  has  been  erected  where  the  road  passes. 

The  west  side  of  this  river  for  about  two  miles,  is  formed 
by  what  iscalledlhe  Genesee  flats.  These  are  extensive  allu- 
vial plains  ;  the  part  passed  by  the  road  is  held  by  the  Seneca 
Indians,  and  like  all  lands  under  the  control  of  savages,  lies 
mostly  in  its  natural  state. 

Passing  the  flats,  a  country  commences  essentially  differ* 
ent  from  that  east  of  Genesee.  Oak  becomes  now  the  pre- 
valent timber,  a  very  serious  deterioration  of  soil  prevails* 
every  object  bespeaks  a  region  of  much  less  productive  pow- 
er, than  that  which  gives  bloom  to  the  vicinity  of  Geneva 
and  Canandaigua.    Farms  are  now  less  frequent*  and  have 

M 


TONNEWAtfTA  CREEK. 


[LET.  XIII. 


far  less  prosperous  features  thau  those  I  so  much  admired  to 
the  eastward. 

Approaching  Batavia,  the  seat  of  justice  in  Genesee  coun- 
ty, another  change  presents  its  variety  ;  ponds  and  flats  in- 
tervene amongst  the  hills,  and  give  to  the  hot  (orris  of  the 
Tonnewanta  the  look  of  recent  and  moist  alluvion.  Batavia 
is  a  flourishing  village,  hut  to  me,  neither  itMmprovements 
or  seite  was  so  pleasing  as  I  expected.  I  remained  one 
night  in  this  town,  (July  25ih)  and  on  the  morning  of  the 
26th  sat  out  for  Buffalo.  The  road  follows  for  some  miles 
the  valley  of  the  muddy  and  sluggish  Tonnewanta.  Had  not 
the  timber  prevented  such  a  deception,  I  might  have  imagi- 
ned myself  following  the  sinuosities  of  a  stream  of  the  low- 
er Louisiana;  but  the  dark  green  of  the  immense  hemlock 
forests,  reminded  me  that  I  was  tracing  another  region. 
Hemlock,  beech,  sugar  maple,  and  linden,  compose  the  mass 
of  the  timber.  The  soil  is  excellent,  but  too  flat  for  either 
health  or  very  beneficial  culture.  Schistose  limestone  forms 
the  base,  overlaid  as  I  have  before  noted. 

After  passing  a  short  distance  over  Murder  creek,  the  road 
leaves  the  Tonnewanta,  and  rises  into  a  hilly,  broken  country, 
in  which,  however,  some  tolerable  extensive  flats  occur. 
This  part  of  the  country  is  rendered  most  worthy  of  re- 
mark, from  the  enormous  masses  of  schistose  fissured  blue 
limestone.  Many  places  are  seen  where  this  rock  covers 
large  spaces,  and  has  every  appearance  of  having  once  form- 
ed the  bed  of  a  body  of  water.  I  did  not  perceive  the  exis- 
tence of  shells  in  the  composition  of  this  stone,  but  my  time 
and  opportunity  was  too  limited  to  admit  extensive  research  ; 
to  note  the  general  appearance  pf  the  country  was  all  that 
was  in  my  power.  Timber  in  this  neighborhood,  pine,  elm, 
sugar  maple  \  soil  fertile,  though  agriculture  must  in  many 
places  be  incommoded  by  the  large  bodies  of  naked  or  slight- 
ly covered  limestone. 

Water  courses  all  flow  north-west  into  the  Tonnewanta. 
and  every  where  wash  the  rough  surface  of  the  fractured 


.LET.  XIII.] 


BUFFALO. 


155 


limestone,  and  before  reaching  the  main  stream  fall  over 
considerable  precipices  of  the  same  rock. 

Five  miles  from  Buffalo,  at  Atkins's,  near  the  seat  of 
judge  Granger,  the  last  of  those  creeks  cross  the  road,  and 
within  about  two  hundred  yards  to  the  north  of  where  it 
passes,  the  road  falls  down  a  considerable  ledge.  The  coun- 
try then  assumes  a  waving  rather  than  a  hilly  appearance, 
to  within  about  a  mile  from  Buffalo,  when  an  almost  uniform 
plain  commences,  which  is  terminated  by  the  banks  of  lake 
Erie. 

It  was  evening  when  I  arrived  in  Buffalo,  therefore  unable 
to  gratify  my  curiosity  by  a  review  of  the  place  until  the 
morning  of  the  28th.  The  events  of  the  last  war  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  had  rendered  Buffalo 
an  object  of  interest  to  the  American  traveller.  I  also  felt 
anxious  to  see  lake  Erie,  which  in  addition  to  its  natural  po- 
sition, had  also  gained  a  rank  amongst  the  parts  of  our  coun- 
try, which  during  the  same  war  that  exposed  Buffalo  and 
"Washington  to  the  flames  of  an  incendiary,  also  gave  re- 
nown to  the  nation,  and  left  land-marks  of  glory  which  will 
only  be  effaced  by  the  ruia  of  the  world  and  human  litera- 
ture. 

I  arose  early  in  the  morning  and  hasted  to  examine  the 
village  and  its  vicinity.  Like  most  other  new  towns,  Buffa- 
lo is  composed  in  great  part  by  one  street  following  the 
course  of  the  road  towards  the  eastward,  though  the  town 
itself  lies  very  nearly  in  a  north  and  south  direction,  A  few 
others  cross  the  main  street,  but  are  but  little  improved. 
But  very  little  appearance  remains  of  the  destructive  rage 
of  war.  Most  of  the  houses  are  rebuilt,  but  as  in  Kingston, 
some  vestiges  still  exist  to  attest  the  fury  of  invasion.  Ma- 
ny good  and  convenient,  and  some  elegant  dwellings  and 
store  houses  have  been  erected  since  the  termination  of  the 
last  war.  Three  or  four  excellent  inns,  and  many  decent 
taverns  offer  their  accommodations  to  the  traveller. 


156 


[LFT.  X1XI. 


j  Tlie  natural  situation  of  the  town  of  Buffalo,  though 
presenting  nothing  either  grand  or  striking,  is  nevertheless 
extremely  advantageous  as  a  commercial  depot.  The  at- 
tendant diagram  will  exhibit  its  relative  situation  as  respects 
lake  Erie,  Buffalo  creek,  and  the  adjoining  parts  of  New- 
York  and  Canada  ;  but.  cannot  convey  an  adequate  concep- 
tion of  the  minute  features  of  its  local.  Buffalo  creek  en- 
ters lake  Erie  meandering  over  an  alluvial  plain,  whose  sur* 
face  is  not  elevated  above  the  ordinary  level  of  lake  Erie 
more  than  four  or  five  feet.  This  plain  extends  down  the 
lake  and  Niagara  river,  terminates  above  Black  Bock,  and 
is  about  300  yards  wide.  Rising  above  this  plain  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet,  extends  another  level  composed  of  sand,  rounded 
pebble,  and  a  substratum  ot\ vegetable  earth.  Upon  the 
latter  stands  the  town  of  Buffalo. 

The  creek  is  formed  by  the  union  of  Cayuga,  Seneca,  and 
Oizuiovi  i  branches  ;  which  rising  in  the  hills  to  the 
south-easts  approach  Buffalo  by  a  very  rapid  current, 
which*  however,  subsides  before  the  united  waters  reach 
lake  Erie.  Seneca  and  Cayuga  creeks  rise  in  the  town- 
ship of  Sheldon,  in  Genesee  county,  interlock  with  the 
Tonnewanta,  and  How  nearly  parallel  to  each  other  to- 
wards the  north-west,  enter  Niagara  county,  and  contin- 
tiing  the  same  direction  about  twenty  miles  in  comparative 
course,  turn  to  the  west,  and  unite  live  miles  a  little 
south  of  east  from  the  town  of  Buffalo.  Cazenovia  creek 
rises  in  the  south-east  angle  of  Niagara  county,  interlocking 
with  the  head  waters  of  Cafaraugus,  flow  s  nearly  parallel  to 
Seneca,  falls  into  the  united  streams  of  Seneca  and  Cayuga 
three  miles  south-east  of  Buffalo,  and  from  thence  to  their 
junction  with  lake  Erie  take  a  common  name  with  the  town. 

The  harbor  formed  by  this  creek  is  excellent  and  perfectly 
safe  from  all  winds ;  but  from  the  shallowness  of  the  bar  at 
its  mouth,  will  only  admit  small  vessels  of  four  or  five  feet 
draught.  A  light-house  is  now  standing  upon  the  point  be- 
tween (he  lake  and  creek,  and  is  certainly  a  great  conven- 
ience to  persons  navigating  the  lake.    The  creek  is  navigabl  e 


J*ET.  XIIl.] 


BUFFALO. 


157 


for  boats  to  (lie  first  forks  above  its  mouth,  from  whence 
upwards  it  is  interrupted  by  falls. 

Large  vessels  are  obliged  to  be  anchored  out  in  the  lake 
or  fail  down  below  Bird  island  in  the  mouth  of  Niagara 
river.  The  current  commences  to  be  apparent  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Buffalo  creek,  but  is  l  here  very  gentle,  gradually 
and  imperceptibly  augmentisu*  as  the  strait  contracts,  until 
opposite  Black  Rock,  where  the  whole  volume  is  less  than  a 
roi'e  wide;  the  velocity  of  the  stream  cannot  be  less  than 
five  or  six  miles  an  hour,  with  a  medium  depth  of  from 
twenty  to  thirty  feet. 

I  walked  down  the  beach  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek  to 
the  village  of  Black  Rock.  The  greatest  part  of  the  dis- 
tance (two  miles)  is  a  sand  bank.  From  the  mouth  of  the 
«reek  about  half  a  mile  the  shore  is  low,  but  then  rises  into 
a  ridge  of  at  least  ten  feet  perpendicular  height  above  the 
water.  This  enormous  bank  of  sand  and  flat  pebbles  has 
been  produced  by  the  dashing  of  the  waves  for  imlimited 
ages,  and  is  no  doubt  daily  accumulating.  Its  elevation 
must  originate  with  the  winds  unaided  by  tho  water,  as  no 
storms  that  could  now  occur,  would  ever  raise  the  surge  of 
the  lake  to  the  higher  part  of  the  bank. 

Bird  island  is  nothing  more  than  a  mere  ledge  of  rocks 
vising  above  (he  surface  of  the  M  ater,  but  admirably  situated 
to  shelter  vessels  from  almost  all  winds  that  could  much  af- 
fect them  in  this  place. 

Ever  since  my  arrival  on  the  St.  Lawrence  waters,  I  have 
been  impressed  with  reiterated  facts,  which  combine  to  prove 
the  general  prevalence  of  a  current  of  air  which  moves  in 
the  same  direction  with  the  waters.  So  incessant  is  the 
prevalence  of  this  wind  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  below  the 
Thousand  islands,  that  the  entire  forests  have  a  visible  bent 
to  the  north-east.  The  same  effect  is  very  perceptible  near 
Sacket's  Harbor,  and  after  crossing  the  Genesee  river  trav- 
elling westward,  becomes  more  and  more  apparent  as  lake 
Bri«  is  approached.    The  orchards  are  particularly  influen- 


BLACK  ROCK, 


[let.  XIII 


£edby  this  current,  and  between  Batavia  and  Buffalo  are  so 
regularly  and  so  uniformly  bent  eastwards,  as  to  appear  al- 
most the  effect  of  design  in  those  who  have  planted  the  trees. 
Near  the  beach  of  lake  Erie,  this,  I  may  say, -almost  un- 
changing  wind  has  forced  the  forest  trees  to  assume  a  stoop- 
ing posture. 

July  2i)(h  I  visited  Black  Rock.  This  is  a  small  but  ap- 
parently a  thriving  village,  two  miles  north  of,  and  built 
upon  the  same  plain  with  Buffalo.  Here  the  banks  of  the 
Niagara  river  or  strait,  present  a  very  exact  resemblance 
with  those  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  Brockville  to  Hamil- 
ton. Rising  by  gentle  acclivity  from  the  water  ;  both  sides 
of  the  river  being  cultivated  afford  a  line  prospect,  though 
from  its  longer  settlement,  the  Canada  shore  is  much  more 
improved  than  that  of  New-York.  Unless  in  a  cataract,  I 
never  before  witnessed  so  large  a  mass  of  water  flowing  with 
such  prodigious  rapidity.  The  bottom  of  the  river  is  com- 
posed of  smooth  rock,  over  which  the  water  glides.  If 
the  stream  flowed  over  broken  masses  of  stone  it  would 
be  impassable. 

After  viewing  Black  Rock  I  took  advantage  of  a  boat  go- 
ing down,  and  hasted  towards  one  of  the  great  objects  of 
my  journey,  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  The  day  was  intolerably 
warm,  with  scarce  an  air  of  wind  to  move  a  leaf.  I  found 
the  river  much  more  winding  than  I  had  expected  from  the 
maps  1  had  seen.  Our  boat  followed  the  west  channel,  leav- 
ing Grand  island  to  the  east.  Passing  this  island  I  was 
struck  with  its  remarkable  resemblance  to  many  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  islands,  having  a  similar  swell  rising  from  the 
water.  Some  new  openings  are  now  making,  but  the  great- 
est part  of  its  surface  is  yet  forest.  I  had  no  means  of  ex- 
amining the  timber,  but  at  a  distance  the  trees  had  a  similar 
mixture  with  the  opposite  shores,  hemlock,  sugar  maple* 
film,  oak,  and  iinden.* 

"*  Since  my  return  to  New-York,  the  following  appeared  if*  the 


XET.  XUfrl.] 


TONNE WANTA  CHEEK. 


Tonnewanta  and  EUicott's  creek  enter  (he  east  channel  of 
Niagara  strait  very  nearly  opposing  to  the  middle  of  Grand 
island.  Extensive  marshes  and  swamps  skirt  the  Tonnewan- 
ta from  its  mouth,  for  more  than  twenty  miles  upwards* 
This  creek  or  rather  river,  rises  in  the  town  of  OrangeviJle, 
in  the  south  side  of  Genesee  county,  interlocking  with  the 
sources  of  Cataraugus  and  Buffalo  creeks,  and  wi<h  some 
streams  which  euter  the  west  branch  of  Genesee  river. 
From  its  source  the  Tonnewanta  crosses  in  a  northern  direc- 
tion Orangevillc,  Attica,  and  Alexander  townships,  reaches 
Batavia  after  flowing  about  twenty-five  miles  ;  it  thence 
gradually  curves  to  the  north-west,  west,  and  south-west  by 
west,  falls  into  Niagara  river  forty  miles  from  Batavia,  hav- 
ing an  entire  course  of  sixty-five  miles.  This  stream  has 
now  become  an  object  of  interest,  from  the  circumstance  of 

public  prints,  extracted  from  the  Niagara  Journal,  published  at 
Buffalo.  • 

FROM  THE  NIAGARA  JOURNAL. 

"  Population  of  Grand  Island. — A  very  considerable  settlement 
of  squatters  has  been  made  upon  this  island,  principally  in  the 
course  of  the  last  season.  There  are  now,  we  are  informed,  more 
than  one  hundred  families,  collected  from  all  quarters;  many 
from  Canada  and  the  middle  counties  of  this  state,  and  conside- 
rable improvements  are  making.  The  island  is  situated  in  the 
Niagara  river,  and  commences  about  three  miles  below  Black 
Rock,  and  extends  to  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  falls.  It  is 
twelve  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  seven  miles  broad.  The 
whole  of  it,  before  the  recent  inroads,  was  clothed  with  heavy 
timber  of  an  excellent  quality.  The  soil  is  said  to  be  strong  and 
rich,  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  The  title  to  it  has  not  yet  been 
determined  by  the  commissioners,  but  it  is  generally  admitted  to 
be  within  the  territory  of  the  United  States.  Our  readers  will 
probably  recollect,  that  the  Indian  title  to  this  and  the  other 
islands  in  the  Niagara  was  ceded  to  the  state  of  New- York,  by 
treaty  made  at  Buffalo,  on  the  12th  of  September,  1815,  between 
Gov.  Tompkins  and  others,  commissioners  on  the  part  of  the 
state,  and  the  chiefs,  &c.  of  the  Seneca  nation.  The  state  paid 
one  thousand  dollars  down,  and  secured  an  annuity  of  five  hun- 
dred dollars.  This  island  will  probably,  at  no  distant  period,  be- 
come very  populous,  and  highly  cultivated." 


/ 


[let.  XIII* 


its  bed  being  for  some  distance  intended  as  tlie  route  of  the 
Grand  Cam*!  ;  (he  land  ^contiguous  to  the  lower  j,art  of  its 
course  from  Batavia,  is,  as  I  have  already  observed,  subject 
in  many  places,  to  submersion  by  water.  It  is  navigable 
for  boats  upwards  of  twenty  miles  from  its  mouth.  Be- 
tween the  mouth  of  the  Tonnewanta  and  old  Fort  Schlosser, 
the  marshes  in  some  places  border  the  strait  ;  and  what  is 
remarkable,  the  Chippewa  river  entering  the  Canada  side  a 
short  distance  above  the  falls,  exhibits  in  some  measure, 
similar  phenomena  with  the  Tonnewanta.  Seen  from  the 
strait  below  (lie  lower  extremity  of  Grand  isle,  the  whole 
adjacent  country  appears  almost  level,  no  elevation  being 
visible  that  materially  breaks  the  monotony  of  the  land- 
scape. The  strait  here  turns  nearly  abruptly  to  the  west, 
and  first  exposes  to  view  the  cloud  that  constantly  rises  from 
the  cataract.  Nothing  is  seen,  however,  that  anticipates  in 
any  manner  the  sublime  and  awful  scene  below  ;  even  the 
rapid  current  that  sweeps  past  Black  Eoek,  is  now  tranquil- 
lized :  the  strait  is  here  nearly  as  still  as  a  lake  on  the  U.  S. 
shore,  and  Hows  gently- on  that  of  Canada.  Navy  island  is 
a  small  extent  of  land  lying  in  the  Canada  channel,  at  the 
lower  extremity  of  Grand  island,  below  which  commences 
the  rapids  that  precccio  the  cataract  of  Niagara.  I  passed 
between  Navy  and  Grand  islands,  and  landed  near  old  Fort 
Sehlosser,  and  walked  down  the  shore  to  "Whitney's,  opposite 
the  falls;  it  was  near  sun-set,  silence  began  to  reign  over 
the  face  of  nature.  Slowly  and  at  intervals  I  heard  the 
deep,  long,  and  awful  roar  of  the  cataract  ;  my  mind  which 
for  years  had  dwelt  wi«h  anticipation  upon  this  greatest  of 
the  world's  traits,  approached  the  scene  with  fearful  solici- 
tude. 1  beheld  the  permanent  objects,  the  trees,  the  rocks; 
and  I  beheld  also  the  passing  clouds,  that  momentarily  flitted 
over  the  most  interesting  picture  that  nature  ever  painted 
rnd  exposed  to  !he  admiration  of  intelligent  beings,  with 
no.c  than  my  common  forbearance,  I  concluded  to  behold 


XIII.]  WtJkmMA  TALIS,  ±d 

amid  the  beams  of  a  rising  sun  the  greatest  object  ever  pre- 
sented to  human  view.    But  faM'Si  thes  stairs  of  the  ni.rht 
gleamed  through  the  rifisty  atmosphere  of  (his  apparently 
fairy  land,  I  walked  forth  ro  the  margin  of  the  cataract,  and 
in  fancy  conceived  the  beauties,  the  horrors,  and  she  won- 
ders the  coming  mw\i  wftttld  produce.    Thai  morn  opened, 
f  July  $Gtb)  it  was  cl^ir  and  Beteliis  ;  I  hasied  to  ihe  verge  of 
the  cataract  ;  i  expected  much,  ainl  was  not  disappointed* 
The  point  of  Imii  above  A.  is  a  thick  wood  standing  upon  a 
sloping  hank.    The  noise  of  the  cataract  is  heart!,  but  its 
features  unseen,  &Bti!  the  observer  advances  to  the  verge  of 
the  fall  ;  it  is  r.-en  sefcti  so  obliquely  as  to  destroy  its  best 
effect.    Defective  however,  as  was  this  perspective  of  Nia- 
gara, It  presented  beauties  infinitely  transcending  any  1  had 
ever  seen  before,    1  stood  upon  the  very  slope  over  which 
the  torrent  rushed,  and  for  many  minutes  forgot  everj  other 
object  except  the  (indescribable  scene  before  me  ;  but  when 
the  fervor  of  imagination  had  in  some  measure  subsided,  I 
beheld  under  my  feet,  carved  on  the  smooth  rock  G.  J).  C.  ; 
W.  P.  and  J.  B.  ami  many  other  initials  of  friends  that  land 
visited  this  incomparable  spot,  and  left  these  memoria,  that 
friends  only  could  understand.    On  beholding  these  recol- 
lections of  home,  you  will  forgive  me  when  1  acknowledge 
having  dropt  upon  their  traces  tears,  that  were  rapidly  swal- 
lowed in  the  vortex  of  Niagara.  The  beams  of  morning  came, 
and  glanced  upon  the  curling  volumes  that  rose  from  the 
abyss  beneath;  my  eye  searched  the  bottom  of  this  awful 
gulf,  and  found  in  its  bosom  darkness,  gloom,  and  indescri- 
bable tumult.    My  reflections  dwelt  upon  this  never  ending 
conih'ct,  this  eternal  march  of  (he  elements,  and  my  very 
soul  shrunk  back  upon  itself    The  shelving  rock  on  which 
I  stood  trembling  under  my  feet,  and  the  irresistible  flood 
before  me  seemed  to  present  the  pictured  image  of  evanes- 
cence.   The  rock  was  yielding  piecemeal  to  ruin,  fragment 
after  fragment  was  borne  into  the  terrible  chasm  beneath  j 


29 1 A  GAB  .1  ¥ALLS» 


[jLET.  XXII. 


and  (he  very  stream  that  hurried  these  broken  morsels  to 
destruction,  was  itself  a  moimmc nt  of  changing  power* 

I  retraced  my  steps  to  Col.  Whitney's,  and  after  breakfast 
returned,  and  descending  the  almost  perpendicular  bank  of 
rocks,  found  myself  under  the  tremendous  FALL  OF 
WATER,  that  even  in  description  has  excited  the  admira- 
tion of  cultivated  man  !  I  crossed  the  Niagara  strait  about 
250  yards  below  the  chute.  The  river  was  in  some  measure 
ruffled  by  the  conflict  it  had  sustained  above,  but  no  danger 
approached  the  passenger.  Perpendicular  walls  of  rock 
rose  on  both  sides,  to  the  appalling  elevation  of  between 
three  and  four  hundred  feet.  The  trees  which  crowned  the 
upper  verge  of  this  abyss  appeared  like  shrubs.  I  was 
drenched  to  the  skin  by  the  spray  of  the  cataract ;  but  the 
sublime  scene  towering  over  my  head,  was  too  impressive  to 
permit  much  reflection  upon  a  momentary  inconvenience. 
The  river  below  the  fall  flows  with  considerable  rapidity* 
but  with  less  velocity  or  turbulence  than  I  had  been  induced 
to  expect.  The  opposing  banks  are  perfectly  similar,  both 
being  perpendicular  about  half  the  descent ;  below  which 
enormous  walls  extend  slopes,  composed  of  the  broken  frag- 
ments i hat  have  been  torn  from  their  original  position  by 
the  torrents  from  above.  Most  maps  of  Niagara  are  very 
defective,  the  river  being  represented  too  straight.  The 
best  delineation  of  this  phenomenon  which  I  have  seen  is 
contained  in  the  map  of  Niagara  river,  published  with  Gen. 
Wilkinson's  Meivoits.  In  that  draft,  the  river  abo.e  the 
falls  is  represented,  as  it  is  in  fact,  flowing  almost  westward. 
Below  the  chute  the  stream  flows  abruptly  to  the  north-east, 
which  course  it  pursues  more  than  a  mile,  from  whence  it 
again  resumes  a  northern  direction,  which,  with  some  par- 
tial bends,  it  continues  to  the  place  of  its  final  exit  in  lake 
Ontario. 

Between  the  lower  extremity  of  Grand  isle  and  the  mouth 
of  Chippewa  river,  the  Niagara  is  upwards  of  a  mile  wide, 
but  contracts  a  little  as  the  rapids  eewmence.    The  banks 


XET.  XIII.] 


NIAGARA  *ALLS, 


as  high  as  Chippewa  river,  are  not  very  much  elevated  above 
the  surface  of  (he  strait,  hut  apparently  rise  in  descending 
to  the  pitch  or  chute.  This  change  of  relative  height  is  on- 
ly a  deception  in  vision,  occasioned  by  the  wear  of  the  cata- 
ract. After  crossing  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  I  traversed 
the  Canada  shore  to  the  hank  above  the  grand  or  Canada 
chute.  On  the  diagram  enclosed,  I  have  marked  the  letter 
C.  upon  the  spot,  from  where  the  best  view  can  be  taken  of 
the  falls,  rapids  and  islands.  Many  persons  have  insisted 
that  the  best  view  of  the  falls  is  to  be  had  from  Goat  island. 
At  this  time  I  cannot  form  a  comparative  judgment,  us  the 
bridge  built  by  judge  Porter,  from  the  New-York  shore  to 
Goat  island,  was  broken  by  the  ice  of  last  winter.  I  am 
doubtful  of  the  fact,  of  the  falls  being  seen  to  very  much 
advantage  from  this  island,  as  the  perspective  must  be  very 
oblique.  The  rapids  are,  however,  but  little  less  worthy  of 
a  visit  than  the  tails  themselves,  and  can  no  doubt  be  seen 
with  much  greater  effect  from  Goat  island  than  from  either 
shore  of  the  strait.  The  rapids  indeed  on  the  Canada  chan- 
nel is  a  scene  of  sublimity  and  grandeur,  Tumbling  over 
ledges,  many  of  which  are  8  or  10  feet  perpendicular  de- 
scent ;  these  rapids  are  in  fact  a  chain  of  cataracts,  over 
which  the  immense  volume  rolls  its  terrific  mass  towards  the 
still  more  awful  scene  below.  The  New-Ycrk  channel  has 
also  its  appropriate  beauties  and  attractions  to  the  traveller ; 
many  small  islands  covered  with  cedar  stand  between  the 
main  shore  and  Goat  island,  round  which  the  foaming  surge 
dashes  with  endless  rage.  One  of  these  inlets  han^s  upon 
the  brow  of  the  falls,  and  produces  a  small  middle  sheet  of 
ten  or  fifteen  yards  wide,  standing  in  mimic  majesty  between 
the  two  gigantic  torrents  on  each  side. 

No  adequate  idea  can  be  formed  from  description  of  this 
wonder  of  interior  North  America.  Its  pitch  in  feet,  its^ 
width,  velocity,  and  consequent  mass,  can  be  estimated  with 
considerable  accuracy  ;  but  the  effect  upon  the  mind  can  only 
be  produced  from  actual  view.    If  the  massy  wails  of  rock, 


NIAGARA  EAXXS; 


[LKT. 


and  the  rapids  above  are  excepted,  there  is  nothing  near  Ni- 
agara that  is  striking  in  the  scenery.  It  is  left  alone  i^sim- 
ple  and  sublime  dignity  to  strike  the  soul  with  a  sensation, 
that  loss  of  life  or  sense  alone  ean  obliterate,  hut  the  nature 
of  which  no  language  can  convey.  If  towering  mountains 
and  craggy  rocks  surrounded  Niagara,  I  eannot  hut  believe 
that  much  of  its  fine  effect  would  be  lost,'  as  it  exists  it  is 
"an  image  whose  whole  contour  is  at  once  seen,  and  the  re- 
collection unbroken  by  extraneous  objects      even  sound  is 

*  A  few  days  after  my  return  to  the  city  of  New- York,  I  had 
the  pleasure  to  read  the  following  lines,  from  the  4th  canto  of 
Childe- Harold,  by  Lord  Byron.  It  is  a  description  of  the  cata- 
ract of  Velum.  Words  of  fire  !  used  to  paint  to  the  soul  an  ob- 
ject, no  doubt  worthy  the  mighty  genius  of  the  greatest  modern 
poet;  but  an  object  compared  to  which,  Niagara  is  as  a  tower- 
ing oak  beside  a  rose  shrub.  If  Lord  Byron  had  given  intellec- 
tual existence  to  this  grand  effort  of  a  master  mind,  under  the 
very  spray,  in  view  of  the  emerald  verge,  and  with  his  soul  arous- 
ed to  heaven  by  the  sound  of  the  waters  of  Niagara,  his  image 
would  not  more  vividly  pourtray  this  scene,  whose  traits  only  a 
poet  can  describe. 

a  The  roar  of  waters  ! — from  the  headlong  height 
Velino  cleaves  the  wave-worn  precipice  ; 
The  fail  of  waters!  rapid  as  the  light, 
The  (lashing  mass  foams  shaking  the  abyss ; 
The  hell  of  waters!  where  they  howl  and  hiss, 
And  boil  in  endless  torture ;  while  the  sweat 
Of  their  great  agony,  wrung  out  from  this 
Their  Phlegethon,  curls  round  the  rocks  of  jet 
That  gird  the  gulf  around,  in  pitiless  horror  set, 

And  mounts  in  spray  the  skies,  and  thence  again 
Keturns  in  an  unceasing  shower,  which  round 
With  its  unemntied  cloud  of  gentle  rain, 
Is  an  eternal  April  to  the  ground, 
Making  it  all  one  emerald  : — how  profound 
The  gulf  and  how  the  giant  element 
From  rock  to  rock  leaps  with  delirious  bound 
Crushing  the  cliffs,  which,  downward  worn  and  rent 
With  his  fierce  footsteps,  yield  in  chasms  a  fearful  vent 

To  the  broad  column  which  rolls  on,  and  shows 
More  like  the  fountain  of  an  infant  sea 
Torn  from  the  womb  of  mountains  by  the  throes 
Of  a  new  World,  than  only  tfatrs  to  be 


XET.  XIII.) 


STAG AH A  FALLS* 


subservient  to  the  impression  made  upon  the  heart,  none  is 
heard  except  (he  eternal  roar  of  the  cataract.  I  would 
have  been  rejoiced  to  hare  seen  this  place  in  a  tempest. 
The  whole  time  I  was  there,  the  weather,  though  warm, 
was  otherwise  serene  and  pleasant.  Amid  the  howling  of 
the  black  north-west  wind  Niagara  musthave something  of 
more  than  common  inierest.  I  am  inclined  nevertheless  to 
believe,  that  winter  alone  can  give  all  its  most  appropriate 
attendant  imagery  to  the  falls.  But  at  all  times,  at  all  sea- 
sons, and  I  might  say  by  all  minds,  will  this  matchless  picture 
be  viewed  with  wonder  and  delight,  and  remembered  with 
feelings  of  pleasure. 

Many  silly  remarks  are  however  made  respecting  the 
falls :  their  plunging  into  an  abyss  of  which  no  one  knows 
the  depth  is  one.  The  waters  mostly  fall  upon  an  inclined 
plane,  formed  by  the  broken  fragments  of  rocks  which  have 
been  and  are  daily  falling  from  the  precipice  over  which  the 
waters  are  precipitated.  Canoes  and  other  vessels  being 
earned  to  the  verge  of  the  fall  with  persons  in  them,  gliding 

Parent  of  rivers  which  (low  gushingly, 
Willi  many  windings,  through  tiie  vale  : — Look  back  ! 
Lo  !  where  it  comes  like  an  eternity, 
As  if  to  sweep  down  all  things  in  its  track, 
Charming  the  eye  with  dread, — a  matchless  cataract, 

Horribly  beautiful !  but  on  the  verge, 
From  side  to  side,  beneath  the  glittering  morn, 
An  Iris  sits,  amidst  the  infernal  surge 
Like  HOPE  upon  a  death-bed,  and,  unworn 
Its  steady  dyes,  while  all  around  is  torn 
By  the  distracted  waters,  bears  serene 
Its  brilliant  hues  with  all  their  beams  unshorn 
Resembling,  ?niid  the  torture  of  the  scene, 
Love  watching  madness  with  unalterable  mein.?' 

Only  with  this  description,  can  be  compared  that  of  the  Gha* 
rybdis  by  Homer  :  it  cannot  be  deemed  presumption  to  say  it  hag 
no  other  equal  in  human  literature.  Let  any  person  of  warm 
fancy,  read  these  lines  in  view  of  Niagara,  in  a  fine  summer 
morning,  and  while  the  Tris  beams  upon  his  eye,  he  will  exclaim, 
"  this  indeed  is  the  language  of  enraptured  poetry 


106 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


[let.  xiii; 


rapidly  but  smoothly  fo  destruction,  is  another  romance  : 
any  vessel  whatever,  would  be  dashed  to  splinters  by  the  ra- 
pids before  coming  within  half  a  mile  of  the  chute. 

Unless  it  may  be  from  Goat  island,  which  I  did  not  see, 
the  best  situation  to  see  the  falls,  is  from  the  Table  Roek,^ 
or  to  my  mind  more  safe  and  more  pleasant  from  the  hill 
above.  Mr.  Whitney  is  now  constructing  a  stairway  from 
the  New-York  side,  to  lead  down  to  the  margin  of  the  stream. 
This  work,  when  completed,  will  afford  a  more  safe  and 
commodious  passage  than  the  wretched  ladder  down  which 
the  curious  traveller  has  been  hitherto  conveyed. f 

*  Before  my  return  from  Detroit  to  Buffalo,  a  fragment  of 
rock  on  the  Canada  side,  supposed  to  be  the  Table  Rock,  broke 
and  fell.  It  was  not  however  the  Table  Rock  that  fell,  as  the  an- 
nexed extract  will  explain. 

"FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 

(c  Mr.  Salisbury — I  have  seen  it  observed  in  your  paper,  that 
the  celebrated  Table  Rock,  had  precipitated  itself  into  the  Niaga- 
ra river.  This  is  not  correct.  The  part  that  fell  did  not  extend 
to  within  50  yards  of  the  Table  Rock;  it  was  about  20  rods  in 
length,  and  from  1  to  4  in  breadth.  This  part,  the  day  previous 
to  its  falling,  was  passed  over  by  a  large  party  of  visitors.  Per- 
haps it  would  be  proper  to  state,  that  since  that  event,  (which  de- 
stroyed the  pathway)  Mr.  Forsyth  has  constructed  a  new  and  safe 
pathway  to  the  Table  Rock." — Buffalo  pap.  S. 

t  "  Goat  Island. — This  beautiful  Island,  which  divides  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  seems  to  have  been  rent  from  the  American 
side  by  some  violent  convulsion  of  nature ;  the  strata  of  rocks, 
the  soil,  and  the  growth  of  the  timber  corresponding  with  those 
upon  the  main  land. 

"  The  difficulties  of  approach  to  this  island  have,  in  all  pro- 
bability increased  with  time,  and  as  the  fall  has  receded  ;  for  we 
are  informed,  that  it  was  once  a  place  of  frequent  resort  for  the 
French  garrisons  in  Niagara  and  Schlosser,  and  of  the  British 
who  succeeded  them.  There  are  numerous  inscriptions  upon  the 
trunks  of  the  trees,  some  of  which  are  obliterated  ;  the  earliest 
now  legible  is  of  the  year  1769.  The  only  mode  of  access  in 
those  days,  was  to  drop  down  the  current  from  Schlosser  upon 
the  point  of  the  island,  and  great  care  and  circumspection  were 
necessary  by  avoiding  the  draft  of  the  current,  to  escape  being 
carried  over  the  tremendous  precipice.    But  in  later  times,  ai- 


LET.  Xlll.j 


NIAGARA  TAILS. 


167 


Visitors  increase  annually.  Mr.  Forsyth,  keeper  t)f  the 
public  inn  on  the  Canada  shore,  has  kept  a  register  of  the 
names  of  persons  who  have  lodged  at  his  house  on  their 
visit  to  Niagara,  The  number  of  names  are  considerable, 
and  each  succeeding  year  the  excess  becomes  greater.  In 
no  other  situation  in  the  United  States  can  buildings  and  oili- 
er accommodations  for  the  use  of  travellers,  be  established 
with  more  certainty  of  remuneration.  The  cause  that  leads 
the  stranger  to  this  spot  is  not  the  acquisition  of  wealth,  nor 
is  it  the  debates  of  a  legislative  assembly  that  draws  him 
thither  ;  but  the  attractions  that  allure  him  are  a  combination 
of  many  of  the  most  astonishing  features  of  nature,  the  rich 
painted  landscape,  whose  outline  was  traced  by  the  HAND 
by  whom  the  world  was  framed,  and  whose  strong  con- 

though  the  curiosity  of  some  surmounted  the  dread  of  danger, 
few  were  hardy  enough  to  adventure. 

"Abridge  was  built  last  fall,  by  the  hon.  judge  Porter,  and 
sanguine  hopes  were  entertained  that  it  would  have  withstood  the 
torrent;  but  an  unusual  collection  of  ice  in  the  spring  occasioned 
it  to  be  carried  away.  The  perseverance  of  that  enterprizing 
gentleman,  however,  was  not  to  be  discouraged,  and  a  new  bridge 
has  been  constructed  in  a  more  favorable  position,  which  bids 
fair  to  brave  the  dangers  which  proved  fatal  to  the  first. 

"  The  highest  praise  is  due  to  Messrs.  Pierce  &  Whitney,  the 
contractors,  arid  to  Mr.  Osborn.  the  builder,  for  the  judicious  lo- 
cation of  the  building,  and  its  remarkable  construction.  By 
means  of  this  structure,  which  few  would  have  designed  or  exe- 
cuted, Goat  island  has  become  the  most  interesting  spot  that  fan- 
cy can  depict ;  as  it  affords  the  best  and  most  varied  views  of 
that  stupendous  cataract  which  "  enchants  the  world." 

"  The  view  from  Table  Rock,  on  the  British  side,  has  hitherto 
been  much  admired;  but  that  spectacle  is  infinitely  surpassed  by 
the  grandeur  of  the  views  from  several  points  of  the  island,  which 
exhibit  the  majestic  fall,  and  the  surrounding  scenery  in  unrival- 
led splendor.  From  the  same  point  the  eye  embraces  the  rapids 
above,  dashing  with  impetuous  fury  as  if  madly  hastening  to  pre- 
cipitate themselves  into  the  yawning  gulf:  the  tremendous  volume 
of  water  sends  its  spray  to  the  heavens,  and  the  winding  of  the 
foaming  torrent  below  the  precipice ;  no  imagination  can  con- 
ceive, no  language  can  describe  thewiidness  and  sublimity  of  the 
scene."— Niagara  Patriot. 


^CEENSTOff. 


[LET.  XIII 


tour  has  and  will  endure  through  the  changes  of  countless 
centuries. 

July  30th,  1  left  Mr.  Forsyth's  and  traced  the  shores  of 
the  strait  to  Queenston,  a  distance  seven  miles  along  a  road, 
over  a  rolling  but  not  hilly  country.  From  the  heights 
above  Queenston,  a  prospect- opens  only  second  to  that  of  tho 
falls,  though  of  a  character  totally  different.  The  wide 
sweep  of  the  alluvial  plain  of  lake  Ontario  lies  beneath, 
chequered  with  meadows  and  farms  ;  the  deep  and  rapid 
strait,  issuing  in  its  dark  profound  from  the  shelving  rocks 
above,  the  two  towns  of  Queenston  and  Lewiston  ;  and  far 
on  the  back  ground  the  ocean-like  expanse  of  lake  On- 
tario, closes  the  perspective. 

It  is  when  standing  upon  the  brow  of  these  heights,  that 
the  fact  becomes  demonstrative  that  here  once  dashed  Nia- 
gara, mingling  his  foaming  surge  with  the  wave  of  Ontario. 
•The  rocky  bed  has  yielded  to  the  ever  rolling  waters,  and 
the  cataract  has  retired  to  the  deep  and  distant  dell  where  it 
now  repeats  the  thunders  of  ages,  and  continues  its  slow 
but  certain  march  to  Erie.  Time  was  when  Niagara  did 
not  exist,  and  lime  will  come  when  it  will  cease  to  be  !  But 
to  these  mighty  revolutions,  the  change  of  empire  is  as  the 
bursting  bubble  on  the  rippling  pool,  to  the  overwhelming 
volume  that  rolls  down  the  steep  of  Niagara  itself.  Since 
this  cataract  fell  where  Queenston  now  stands,  have  risea 
and  fallen  Assyria,  and  Persia  ;  Macedonia,  and  [tome ;  the 
flood  of  northern  barbarians  issued  forth  from  their  native 
woods,  and  in  the  storm  of  savage  fury  profaned  the  tombs 
of  the  Fabii,  and  the  Scipio's,  and  in  the  march  of  time  the 
polished  sons  of  those  mail  clad  warriors,  now  seek  with  re- 
ligious veneration  the  fragments  of  the  statues  that  their 
fathers  broke;  and  whilst  this  moral  stream  was  flowing 
through  the  wide  expanse  of  ages,  has  the  Niagara  continu- 
ed its  unceasing  course.  Housed  from  the  sleep  of  a  thous- 
and years,  the  energies  of  the  human  mind  sought  another 
world,  and  found  America  $  and  amid  this  new  creation 


LET.  XIII.] 


I4TE  WAft. 


169 


found  Niagara.  Daring  (he  change  of  nations,  religion  and 
language,  this  vast,  this  fearful  cataract  unceasingly  pursued 
and  pursues  its  slow  and  toilsome  way. 

But  in  soberness,  no  man  ever  did  or  ever  can  trace 
this  ground,  without  the  intoxication  of  enthusiasm.  I  re- 
I  raced  my  way  back  to  Buffalo,  passing  along  the  Canada 
shore  as  far  as  the  ferry  below  Fort  Erie. 

There  is,  however,  no  scene  which  the  traveller  visits,  that 
sq  little  answers  his  expectations  as  that  of  a  field  of  battle. 
In  the  splendid  accounts  of  fine  positions  chosen,  defended, 
or  lost,  the  movements  of  armies,  the  shock  of  battalions* 
and  the  victory  acquired,  or  defeat,  sustained  by  celebrated 
generals,  we  are  apt  to  consider  the  ground  upon  which  these 
events  transpired,  as  offering  something  of  deep  interest  on 
review  ;  but  when  seen  this  illusion  vanishes,  and  the  eye 
finds  nothing  beyond  the  common  objects  in  nature  to  render 
conspicuous  the  scene  of  the  greatest  battles. 

The  last  war  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Bri- 
tain, has  been  rendered  forever  remarkable  by  some  of  (hose 
events  which  continue  land-marks  in  history.  The  victories 
of  our  infant  navy  gained  against  the  leviathan  of  the  deep? 
the  burning  of  Washington,  and  the  destructive  defeat  of  a 
veteran  army  of  10,900  men  at  New  Orleans  by  less  than 
half  their  number  of  militia,  are  facts  imperishable  as  the 
literature  of  the  world.  But  in  no  part  of  the  vast  theatre 
of  this  memorable  war,  were  the  operations  of  the  respec- 
tive armies  so  sanguinary  as  on  the  Niagara  river.  Perhaps 
*o  the  number  of  men  engaged,  no  battles  were  ever  more 
obstinately  contended,  or  victory  more  dearly  bought,  than 
were  those  of  Queenston,  October  8(h,  181*,  in  which  gen. 
Brock  was  killed  ;  that  of  Chippewa,  July  5th,  181*.  and 
that  of  Bridgwater,  July  2.5th,  181k  The  latter  was  indeed 
one  of  those  desperate  conflicts^  where  the  oOlccrjg  and  sol- 
diers of  both  armies,  seemed  to  have  lost  the  feeling  of  eve- 
ry other  sentiment  except  that  of  victory.  Gens.  Brown 
and  Scott  were  wounded,  and  Gen.  Real,  of  the  British  army* 

N 


170 


JLATE  WAR, 


[LET.  XIII. 


taken  prisoner.  The  following  fads  from  Gen.  Brown's 
re  1  urn  of  this  engagement,  lire  amongst  (lie  moti  singular 
in  human  history  :  on  the  American  side  the 

«  Return  of  killed,  woundtd  and  missing,  in  (lie  above 
a  action — killed,  171 — wounded,  570— -missing,  117 — total, 
H  S58." 

u  The  British  official  account  of  the  ahove  action,  makes 
"  their  loss  as  follows,  viz  : — killed,  Si — wounded,  559— 
«?  missing,  1£3 — prisoners,  42 — total,  878." 

Fay's  Idlers,  page  221. 

If  to  these  bloody  battles  are  superadded  the  not  less  ru- 
inous and  destructive  operations  at  fort  Kiagara,  fort  Erie, 
and  at  Buffalo,  every  spot  of  this  strait  have  now  become 
classic  ground,  and  the  traveller  for  ages  will  seek  she  he- 
ro's grave.  As  1  passed  these  fit  Ids,  I  could  not  but  con- 
trast the  storm  that  once  raged  upon  their  surface  With  the 
deep  and  solemn  calm  that  reigned  around  me.  Fields  once 
covered  with  the  dead  and  dying  soldier,  now  smiled  in  gold- 
en harvest. 

Upon  the  rising  ground  near  Forsyth's,  I  stopped  to  take 
a  parting  view  of  Niagara,  gazed  a  few  moments  upon  its 
ever  pleasing  features,  hurried  on,  passed  the  fields  of 
Chippewa,  and  about  noon  of  the  31st  August,  found  myself 
again  in  Buffalo. 

The  following  are  the  stages  and  distances,  on  the  Cana- 
da sAie,  from  fort  George  to  Buffalo. 

Mites. 


Fort  George  to  Queenston,  -  -   7 

Stamford  at  the  Falls,  -          -          -  7—14 

Chippewa,           -  3 — 17 

Palmer's,          „■  -           -           -           .  9—26 

Ferry  dele*  fort  Erie,  -          -          -            6 — 32 

Black  Rock,           -  -           -          -  1—33 

Buffalo,           -  2 — 35 


Detained  by  contrary  winds  in  Buffalo  to  the  evening  of 
the  2d  of  August,  I  had  a  good  opportunity  of  examining  the 


JLKT.  XIII.] 


BUFFALO. 


171 


place.  It  does  not  appear  to  me  (hat  the  value  of  that  i8n- 
ation  has  been  duly  appreciated  by  our  government.  Many 
reasons  concur  to  enforce  the  necessity  of  rendering  the 
harbor  of  Buffalo  capable  of  containing  vessels  of  any  size. 
Such  an  undertaking  is  by  no  means  visionary.  At  less  than 
a  mile  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  there  is  sufficient  water 
fo  admit  a  first  rate  ship  of  the  line.  If  a  strong  mole  was 
constructed  running  out  from  above  the  light-house  into  the 
lake,  a  safe  shelter  for  vessels  would  be  formed.  In  a  na- 
val point  of  view,  such  a  work  would  be  invaluable,  and 
contribute  not  a  little  to  secure  to  the  United  States  the  safe- 
ty and  superiority  of  their  flag  on  lake  Erie,  and  to  prevent 
the  repetition  of  the  desolating  inroads  of  an  enemy  m  time 
of  war.* 

Adieu, 

%  Some  facts  relative  to  the  operations  of  Commodore  Perry 
and  life  fleet  in  last  war,  will  be  found  mentioned  in  the  sequel  of 
this  work,  which  will  more  strongly  point  out  the  necessity  of 
some  more  secure  naval  station,  than  any  that  now  exists  on  the 
north-east  extremity  of  lake  Erie.  The  following  account  of 
the  effects  of  the  winds  on  that  lake  has  been  published  at  the 
moment  of  preparing  this  sheet  for  the  press  ;  I  have  grven  it 
entire,  as  a  specimen  of  the  tremendous  gales  that  sweep  over 
those  inland  seas  ;  gales  that  are  appalling  indeed,  where  no  ha- 
ven presents  its  shelter  to  the  wretched  mariner. 

ci  Gale  on  lake  Erie. — fn  addition  to  the  loss  of  the  Hercules? 
heretofore  stated,  we  gather  from  the  Cleveland  Register,  of  Nov* 
2.4,  which  came  to  hand  this  morning,  the  following  particulars  of 
fatal  disasters  : 

•  u  The  schooner  Independence,  of  Sandusky,  John  Brooks  mas*- 
ter  and  owner,  John  Chambers  seaman,  cleared  from  the  mouth 
of  Black  river,  on  Saturday  the  1 4th  inst.  for  Detroit,  loaded  with 
corn,  for  John  S.  Reid,  esq.  who  sent  his  son  Cornelius  Reid  to 
assist  capt.  Brooks,  and  dispose  of  the  corn.  The  vessel  was  cap^ 
sized  in  a  gale — the  cargo  lost,  and  every  soul  on  board  drowned — 
tiie  wreck  drifted  on  shore  near  the  mouth  of  Black  river.  A 
wreck  of  a  vessel,  bottom  upwards,  seen  off  the  mouth  of  Grand 
river.  Schooner  Pauline,  was  driven  on  shore  near  the  mouth  of 
Grand  river  and  bilged — her  crew  saved,  but  her  cargo,  consisting 
of  salt,  lost.  Schooner  Boxer,  lying  in  the  mouth  of  Grand  river, 
dismasted,  bilged,  and  a  complete  wreck— crew  saved.  Sehooner 


172  DETROIT*  [LET.  XI*. 


LETTER  XIV. 

Belroil,  Jivgnsi  13, 

Dear  Sir, 

On  the  evening  of  the  2d  inst.  I  left  Buffalo  for  this  city, 
in  the  schooner  Zephyr,  eapt.  Wilcox,  and  had  a  tedious  pas- 
sage of  eleven  days,  but  at  length  found  myself  agreeably 
rid  of  the  vessel,  and  on  shore  to*day.  Since  it  is  over,  I  do 
not  regret  having  encountered  contrary  winds  in  my  passage, 
as  the  circumstance  enabled  me  to  visit  most  of  the  towns 
along  the  south  border  of  lake  Erie. 

A  gale  commenced  to  blow  with  great  violence  from  the 
2$;  W.  soon  after  we  left  Buffalo  creek,  and  continued  to  rage 
all  night.  The  darkness  of  the  night,  and  the  narrowness 
of  the  mouth  of  the  harbor  we  left,  prevented  our  return  ; 
ihe  course  of  the  wind  kept  us  from  sheltering  under  point 
Abino,  on  the  Canada  shore,  and  of  course  left  us  to  the 
mercy  of  the  storm  and  waves.  I  have  the  misfortune  to 
be  very  subject  to  sea  sickness,  and  never  did  I  pass  so  dread- 
ful a  night.  The  short  chopping  waves  of  lake  Erie  give 
a  vessel,  during  the  prevalence  of  a  gale,  an  unspeakable 
disagreeable  motion  ;  the  nature  of  its  shores  renders  it, 
amongst  the  most  dangerous  parts  of  the  earth  to  navigate 

Wasp  dismasted,  and  driven  on  shore  at  the  mouth  of  Cunning- 
bain's  creek,  bilged — her  crew  saved,  but  cargo  lost.  Schooner 
general  Brown  was  driven  on  shore  near  the  mouth -of  Black 
liver,  on  Wednesday  the  i 8th  inst. — her  crew  all  safe,  but  the 
vessel  considerably  damaged.  Schooner  general  Jackson  left 
Green  bay  for  Mackinaw,  sometime  since,  and  has  not  since  been 
heard  of — fears  are  entertained  for  her  safety.  British  brig  Lord 
Wellington,  of  Canada,  was  driven  on  shore  at  point  Abino* 
and  went  to  pieces— crew  saved,  bat  cargo  lost."' 


iET.  XIV.] 


DUNKIRK. 


A  fine  steam  boat  is  now  building  a|- Black  liock,  and  will 
be  an  invaluable  acquisition  when  put  in  motion*^ 

We  made  Dunkirk  harbor  in  the  evening  of  the  &fh,  w  here 
we  remained  wind  bound  until  noon  of  the  7th.  It  is  a  cu- 
rious Pact,  that  in  a  distance  of  45  miles  from  Buffiio  to 
Dunkirk,  there  is  no  place  where  the  smallest  vessel  can 
ihni  shelter,  except  the  mouth  of  Cataraugus  creek,  which 
affords  but  little  water,  consequently  useless  for  vessel* 
drawing  more  than  four  or  five  feet.  Dunkirk  is  in  Chatuu- 
•  que  county,  township  of  Pomfret.  The  alluvial  bank  of 
lake  Erie  is  at  this  place  about  four  miles  wide,  from  the  in- 
ner border  of  which,  rise  the  hills  which  divide  the  waters 
flowing  into  the  Ohio  valley,  from  those  whhh  fall  into  lake 
Erie.  This  ridge  becomes  visible  from  the  lake  immediately 
after  leaving  Buffalo,  though  from  (hat  place  they  are  dis- 
tant between  twenty  and  thirty  miles  in  a  direct  course. 
Following  nearly  an  east  and  west  direction  through  Genesee, 
Cataraugus,  and  Chaiauque  counties,  the  dividing  ridge  »p« 
proaehes  lake  Erie  obliquely,  and  at  Portland  eighteen  miles 

*  This  boat  is  called  Walk  in  the  Water,  an  aukward  term  giv- 
en in  compliment  to  an  Indian  chief  lately  dead  ;  she  left  Buffalo 
on  her  first  trip  about  the  1 7th  or  1 8th  inst.  The  following  ex- 
tract from  the  Buffalo  Gazette,  shews  the  result.  The  circum- 
stance 1  have  mentioned  of  the  prevalence  of  S.  Wl  winds,  ren- 
ders steam  navigation  invaluable  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  though 
Walk  in  the  Water  is  too  large,  to  answer  all  the  purposes  to 
which,  from  the  shallowness  of  most  of  the  harbors  in  lake  Eric, 
she  might  be  applied,  if  her  draught  was  less. 

u  The  steam-boat  Walk  in  the  Water  has  returned  to  Buffalo 
from  her  first  trip,  and  is  found  on  trial,  to  equal  the  best  expec- 
tations of  her  builders  and  proprietors.  She  reached  Detroit,  a 
distance  of  more  than  .  309  miles,  in  48  hours,  and  afterwards 
proceeded  to  lake  St,  Clair,  and  brought  down  a  number  of  troops. 
May  she  prove  as  profitable  to  the  enterprising  proprietors,  as 
she  is  likely  to  prove  beneficial  to  the  public  at  targe. 

<;  Thus  there  is  now  established,  on  the  St.  Lawrence  and  its 
waters,  steam-boat  accommodations  for  about  800  miles ;  and  the 
distance  of  these  facilities  to  travel,  will  probably  be  doubled  in 
a  very  few  years,  by  the  introduction  of  these  boais  upon  lakes 
Huron,  Michigan;  Superior,  &c." 

N2 


174 


ULJN&IUK. 


[let.  xiy. 


south-west  from  Dunkirk,  teaehei  >v ithia  less  than  three 
miles  of  the  margin  of  the  lake.  The  hills  seen  from  the 
lake  appear  to  rise  much  more  abrupt  than  they  do  in  fact. 
Their  slope  towards  the  lake,  presents  an  immense  forest 
chequered  with  comparatively  few  farms. 

Dunkirk  is  a  new  village  on  the  shore  of  lake  Erie.  A 
semicircular  hay  lies  in  front  of  the  village,  formed  by  two 
capes,  distant  from  each  other  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  with 
a  bar  extending  from  cape  to  cape,  over  which  there  is  seven 
feet  water.  Vessels  capable  of  passing  the  bar,  find  good 
shelter  from  east  south-east,  south,  or  south-west  winds,  and 
the  bar  breaking  the  waves,  the  harbor  affords  a  refuge  also 
from  she  winds  blowing  from  the  lake.  The  bottom  of  the 
bay  affords  good  anchorage  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the 
shore.  Dunkirk  is  invaluable  as  offering  the  only  port  be- 
tween Buffalo  and  Erie.  A  number  of  gentlemen  in  Albany 
are  the  principal  proprietors  of  this  village  and  its  vicinity  ; 
they  have  expended  considerable  sums  in  the  erection  of  a 
wharf,  a  road  to  Fredonia,  and  other  improvements.  The 
site  is  a  dead  level,  which  extends  back  towards  the  hills 
two  or  three  miles,  before  any  considerable  eminences  dis- 
turb the  monotony  of  its  surface.  The  soil  is  composed  of 
sand  and  a  rich  loam,  forming  an  alluvion  of  great  fertility. 
Timber,  hemlock,  various  species  of  oak,  elm,  linden,  pop- 
lar, (iirodendion  tulipifera)  sugar  maple,  and  beech.  The 
trees  of  all  kinds  are  remarkable  for  their  extraordinary 
size. 

The  day  aftcumy  arrival  at  Dunkirk  I  walked  out  to  Fre- 
donia, formerly  Canadaway,  four  miles.  Canadaway  creek 
;risc3  in  the  dividing  ridge,  interlocking  With  the  sources  of 
the  Conncwango  branch  of  the  Allegany  river,  and  flowing 
north-west  towards  lake  Eric,  tumbling  from  precipice  to 
precipice  until  it  reaches  the  alluvial  border  of  lake  Erie, 
which  it  joins  two  miles  above  Dunkirk  buy.  Fredonia  is 
built  upon  each  bank  of  this  creek,  is  a  new  and  flourishing 
village,    The  road  from  Buffalo  to  Erie  passes  through  and 


JiET.  XIV.]  DUNKIUK.  175 

divides  at  Fredonia,  info  what  is  called  the  lower  or  like 
road,  qnd  (lie  upper  or  Chataitque  road.  'Phem  roads  do 
not  again  unite  until  within  the  precincts  of  the  Iowa  of 
Erie.  The  settlements  follow  generally  these  roads,  par- 
ticularly the  form©!'  or  lake  route. 

I  should  h  ive  been  much  rejoiced  to  h  ive  been  able  to  de- 
termine the  elevation  of  the  dividing  ridge  above  the  surface 
of  Jake  Erie,  but  could  not  have  that  satisfaction,  from  want 
of  instruments  and  time.  Independent  of  their  apparent 
height*  two  circumstances  combine  to  prove  that  (hey  cannot 
fall  much  short  of  12J0  feet.  First,  the  distance  to  which 
they  are  visible  is  at  least  forty  miles.  Any  object  capable 
of  being  seen  upon  the  curve  of  the  earth's  surface  forty 
miles,  must  be  within  a  trifle  of  1100  feet  high.  The  second 
datum  to  demonstrate  the  considerable  elevation  of  these 
hills,  is,  thai  from  them  (low  water,  w  hich  enters  the  gulf  of 
Mexico  upwards  of  twelve  degrees  of  latitude  distant  from  its 
source.  The  surface  of  lake  Erie  h  known  to  be  5(>k5  feet 
above  the  ocean  tides,  and  allowing  (lie  dividing  ridge  an  el- 
evation of  1100  feet,  would  produce  166-kd  feet  as  the  entire 
height  of  this  ridge  above  the  Atlantic  ocean.  Sloping  very 
gradually  towards  the  south,  a  rapid  depression  of,  as  we 
have  seen,  1100  feet  takes  place  on  the  side  of  lake  Erie. 
The  extreme  head  waters  of  Chatanque  lake,  rises  in  the 
township  of  Portland,  within  less  than  three  miles  of  lake 
Erie,  and  is  the  point  of  nearest  approach  of  the  Mississippi 
waters,  to  the  margin  of  any  of  the  Canadian  lakes. 

Canals  have  been  projected  to  unite  the  Ohio  and  St.  Law- 
rence waters,  many  points  have  been  mentioned,  and  amongst 
others  by  Chatauquc  lake.  You  will  perceive  the  obstacles 
that  nature  lias  opposed  to  the  completion  of  such  a  project, 
by  the  enormous  difference  of  level,  and  the  very  sudden  de- 
pression. It  is  a  subject  to  me  of  some  surprize,  that  the 
Erie  chain  of  hills  is,  even  by  many  persons  of  good  infor- 
mation, considered  as  rising  but  very  little  above  the  surface 
•f  lake  Erie  ;  bnt  n©  sooner  is  the  real  elevation  of  Erie 


DVSILIRK.  [LET,  XIV. 

known,  limn  the  conviction  must  be  irresistible,  that  a  very  se- 
i  ions  rise  must  be  necessary  from  that  hike,  to  admit  a  •current 
of  Hteh  prodigious  length  as  that  of  the  Allegany,  Ohio,  and 
Mississippi  rivers.  If  indeed  lake  Erie  was  nearly  as  much 
elevated  as  the  source  of  Allegany  river,  then  would  the  fall 
of  W&ter  in  the  Niagara*s(i  ait  and  St.  Lawrence  river,  be  as 
great  in  less  than  SCO  miles,  as  that  of  the  Mississippi  and 
jfs  tributaries  in  six  times  that  distance  ;  the  certain  conse- 
quence would  be  that  either  the  fall  of  Niagara  would  be 
SCO  or  9G0  feet,  or  that  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  its  great 
rapidity,  would  be  unnavigahle. 

With  good  roads,  and  a  thriving  interior,  Dunkirk  must 
advance  in  a  ratio  with  the  neighboring  country,  being  the 
only  port,  no  rival  can  be  raised  to  cheek  its  progress  nearer 
than  forty-live  miles.  Should  the  current  of  commerce  turn 
towards  the  city  of  New-York,  then  would  Dunkirk  become 
the  shipping  port  to  a  semicircle  of  at  least  thirty  miles  radi- 
us. At  present  the  village  consists  of  about  20  houses 
newly  built.  The  proprietors  are  employed  in  forming  a 
rtotd;  to  join  both  above  and  below  the  village  with  that  of 
the  lake  margin. 

A  tig.  6th,  in  the  evening  I  left  Dunkirk,  and,  as  in  leaving 
Buffalo,  encountered  another  gale,  but  as  it  came  from  the 
north-cast,  it  carried  us  rapidly  forward.  The  gale  set  in 
about  three  hours  before  day,  and  bore  our  vessel  about  SO 
miles  from  llmJurk  by  morning  5  as  the  sun  arose  the  wind 
abated,  and  at  8  o'clock  P.  M.  we  passed  the  town  of  Erie, 
into  the  harbor  of  w  hich  we  did  not  enter.  Much  of  the 
shore  between  Dunkirk  and  Erie,  is  composed  of  shelves  of 
reeks,,  twenty  or  SO  feet  high,  and  extremely  dangerous  to 
vessels,  as  no  place  of  refuge  exists  even  for  boats.  The  di- 
viding ridge  is  visible  from  the  lake,  following  a  similar  di- 
rection with  its  shores.  Above  the  tow  n  of  Erie  the  alluvial 
border  becomes  kwider,|and  the  slope  of  the  dividing  iidgii 
less  abrupt,  and  gradually  retiring  into  the  state  of  Ohio, 
about  tirctity  miles  above  Erie  it  ceases  to  be  in  view  from 


JET.  XIV.]  GRAND  illVKK.  177 

the  lake.  Settlements  become  more  rare  ;  the  border  of 
the  lake  presents  one  vast  forest.  Thirty  miles  from  the 
town  of  Erie  and  near  the  mouth  of  Conneought  creek,  is 
the  division  line  bet  ween  the  states  of  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio, 
We  passed  this  place,  and  also  the  mouth  of  Ashtabula  river 
in  the  night,  and  at  noon  of  the  8th,  we  also  passed  the 
mouth  of  Grand  river.  At  1  o'clock  P.  M.  we  were  be- 
calmed which  continued  two  or  three  hours,  and  was  follow- 
ed by  a  strong  head  wind,  which  forced  us  back  into  the 
mouth  of  Grand  river.  The  dividing  ridge  is  visible  from 
the  lake  opposite  this  place. 

Grand  river  is  a  stream  of  some  consequence  rising  in 
Portage  county,  flows  over  the  north-west  angle  of  Trum- 
bull t^unty,  assumes  a  north  course,  enters  Ashtabula  county, 
through  which  it  winds  five  and  twenty  miles,  turns  suddenly 
westward,  enters  Geauga  county,  through  which  it  flows 
upwards  of  twenty  miles,  falls  into  lake  Erie  hi  the  latter 
county,  after  an  entire  course  of  more  than  seventy  miles, 
it  is  about  seventy  yards  ^ide  at  the  mouth,  with  seven  feet 
water  on  the  bar  near  the  entrance  into  the  lake.  The  east 
bank  rises  to  the  height  of  30  or  40  feet,  affording  a  very 
handsome  site  for  a  village.  The  harbor  is  excellent  for 
such  vessels  whose  whole  draft  of  water  will  admit  entrance. 
A  village  called  Fairport,  has  been  laid  out  on  the  point 
below  or  east  cf  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Some  houses  are 
-built,  two  taverns  and  three  stores  have  been  established, 
with  a  warehouse  at  the  bank  of  the  rher.  Preparations 
are  making  to  form  wharves,  extending  beyond  the  bar  in 
such  manner  as  to  afford  a  harbor  to  vessels  of  any  draff. 
If  such  a  work  is  completed  Fairport  will  he  amongst  the 
most  flourishing  villages  on  the  south  shore  of  lake  Erie. 

The  soil  is  here  on  the  high  banks  composed  of  sand,  peb- 
ble, and  vegetable  earth,  and  no  doubt  very  productive,  though 
of  that  1  had  no  other  means  of  forming  a  judgment  than 
by  the  natural  growth,  as  no  cleared  lands  are  yet  to  be  seen 
near  the  vijlage. 


/ 


i7S  «fc«VEXAK0«  £bCT.  XIV. 

Three  miles  from  Fairport,  upon  liie  left  bank  of  Graud 
river,  stands  the  very  flourishing  village  of  Painesville,  the 
richest  and  most  commercial  in  the  county,  containing  a  num- 
ber of  stores,  taverns,  ropls,  and  otr;ei  machinery  :  a  po§t- 
office^  and  a  fine  wooden  bridge  over  Grand  river.  The  soil 
of  litis  neighborhood  is  a  rich  vegetable  mould,  resting  upon 
rounded  pebble  or  clay.  The  Lw!  in  fact  of  all  the  Con- 
necticut reserve  is  fertile,  with  bat  partial  exceptions.  ri  lie 
timber,  hickory,  sugar  maple,  black  walnut,  elm,  oak,  and 
oilier  trees  indicative  of  deep,  strong  soil.  Though  hut  Jit- 
tie  cultivation  appears  along  the  lake  shore,  the  interior  is 
rapidly  advancing  in  settlement.  Fairport  has  all  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  commercial  place  ;  in  infancy  it  must  be  con- 
fessed, but  yet  wih  such  marks  as  will  justify  (he  anticipa- 
tion of  vigorous  maturity. 

Aug.  9th,  Heft  Fairport  early  in  the  morning,  with  alight 
breeze  from  the  N.  E.  and  at  2  o'clock  P.  M.  reached 
Cleveland,  at  the  mouth  of  Cuyahoga  river. 

Cleveland,  like  Fairport,  occupies  the  eastern  point  be- 
tween the  lake  and  river,  and  is,  after  Buffalo  and  Erie,  the 
largest  town  upon  the  shores  of  lake  Erie.  Similar  to  all 
rhers  (hat  How  into  any  of  the  Canadian  lakes,  a  bar  cros- 
ses ih  mouth  with  a  depth  of  7  feet.  Cayahoga  river  rises 
in  Geauga  and  Portage  by  a  nun  her  of  creeks,  which  unite 
at  the  north-west  angle  of  the  latter  county,  then  enters  that 
of  Cuyahoga,  and  falls  into  lake  Erie  at  Cleveland.  A  road 
winding  up  a  very  high  and  steep  bank  leads  from  theharhor 
to  the  fow'fijj  which  stands  upon  the  table  land.  The  situa- 
tion of  Cleveland  is  the  most  pleasing  of  any  town  I  have 
yet  seen  on  lake  Erie.  The  general  slope  of  the  ground  plan 
of  the  town  inclines  towards  the  lake,  though  elevated  per- 
haps 60  feet  above  its  surface.  Cleveland  stands  higher 
than  Fairport,  but  both  are  subject  to  the  serious  objection 
of  having  banks  abrupt  and  difficult  to  ascend  from  the 
margin  of  the  water  in  the  harbor.  That  of  Cleveland  pro- 
duces, from  its  inclination  towards  the  lake,  a  very  pleasant 


LET.  XIV.] 


CLEVELAND. 


and  extensive  prospect,  which  adds  no  little  to  Hie  airy  and 
healthy  appearance  of  the  town  and  its  vicinity.  The  soil 
of  the  neighborhood  is  extremely  fertile,  composed  as  every 
where  else  on  lake  Erie,  of  sand,  <clay,  and  rounded  pebble, 
in  different  degrees  of  mixture.  For  the  first  time  in  the 
St.  Lawrence  valley,  I  saw  the  peach  tree  with  a  vigorous, 
healthy  look,  in  the  gardens  and  orchards  near  Cleveland  : 
and  here  also  appears  more  effects  of  culture,  than  in  any 
part  of  the  lake  shore  from  Buffalo. 

Cleveland  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  Cayahoga  county,  with 
a  court-house,  bank,  printing  office,  a  number  of  stores  and 
taverns,  and  a  pest-oiiiee.  It  is  a  position  of  considerable 
consequence,  lying  in  a  direct  line  of  communication  between 
PiUsliurs  and  Detroit,  151  miles  from  the  former  city.  Du- 
ring  last  war,  the  mouth  of  Cayahoga  was  found  to  be  a 
point  of  great  convenience  for  the  transportation  of  stores, 
provisions,  and  building  of  small  vessels  for  the  use  of  the 
army  and  navy.  Why  large  vessels  could  not  be  as  well  con- 
structed here  as  at  Erie,  I  am  unable  to  comprehend  ;  the 
water  upon  the  respective  bars  is  equal,  whilst  the  harbor  of 
Erie,  from  its  openness,  would  be  certainly  less  defensible 
than  that  of  Cleveland;  and  the  communication  between 
Michigan  Territory,  and  the  interior  of  Ohio,  Pennsylvania, 
Kentucky,  and  Virginia,  more  direct  by  the  latter  than  the 
former  port. 

Vic  left  Cleveland  in  the  evening  of  (he  8?h,  with  a  good 
north  east  breeze;  we  proceeded  up  the  lake  with  so  much 
rapidity  as  to  be  obliged  to  lie  to,  in  order  to  have  day-light 
to  enter  Sandusky  bay.  On  the  morning  of  the  9th,  our 
vessel  was  under  way  at  sun-rise;  Cunningham's  island  and 
point  Peninsula  in  view  to  the  west  ;  the  main  shore  of  Hu- 
ron county,  in  (he  state  of  Ohis,  to  the  seuih,  and  Point-au- 
Ple,  in  Canada,  to  the  north  ;  the  hill3  towards  the  sources 
of  Huron  river  to  the  south-east  ;  but  in  every  other  direc- 
tion, the  adjacent  shores  and  islands  seemed  level,  and  to 
rise  to  no  great  elevation  above  the  water. 


ISa  SANDUSKY.  [LET.  XIV. 

Between  seven  and  eight  A.  M.  I  entered  Sandusky  bay. 
This  sheet  of  Wider  is  formed  by  (he  expansion  of  Sandusky 
river,  and  a  Jong,  narrow  strip  of  land,  whieh  runs  from  be- 
tween chc  inoulh  of  that  stream  and  Portage  river.  The 
strip  forms  the  outside  of  the  bay  towards  the  iakc^  and  has 
reeeived  the  name  of  point  Peninsula,  forms  a  part  of  Hu- 
ron county,  and  has  been  erected  into  the  township  of  Dan- 
bury;  it  is  about  twenty  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  three 
miles  wide.  From  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  peninsula, 
extends  a  low,  narrow  point  about  two  miles  long,  approach- 
ing within  a  mile  of  a  similar  low,  long,  narrow  bar  project- 
ing from  the  main  shore.  The  space  between  these  bars 
is  the  entrance  into  Sandusky  bay.  The  point  of  the  penin- 
sula is  eaJ!ed  pint  Prospect,  the  one  opposite  point  Sandy. 
A  small  round  island  lies  inside  of  point  Prospect,  called  Bull 
island.  The  points  are  covered  with  dwarf  trees,  and  are, 
though  on  a  larger  scale,  in  every  other  respect  similar  to 
those  whieh  form  Sodus  bay  in  lake  Ontario. 

The  entrance  lies  close  upon  point  Sandy,  and  like  almost 
all  harbors  in  lake  Erie,  has  seven  feet  water  at  the  shallow- 
est pari,  Our  ship  passed  Bull  island  to  the  westward  and 
proceeded  to  the  custom  house,  which  is  now  on  the  peninsu- 
la, and  kepi  by  a  Frenchman  of  the  name  of  Peter  P.  Ferry. 
Whilst  our  captain  was  regulating  his  affairs  with  the  cus- 
tom house  officer,  I  walked  forth  to.  examine  the  adjacent 
country.  I  found  the  surface  rising  from  the  bay  by  gradu- 
al acclivity,  to  at  least  20  feet  elevation.  Soil  a  deep  black 
loans,  admixed  with  sand  and  pebble  ;  timber,  black  walnut, 
shag-bark  hickory,  white  oak,  elm,  linden,  ash,  and  syca- 
more, with  a  shrubbery  of  alder,  sumach,  and  grapevine. 
On  no  land  of  whatever  quality  did  1  ever  before  see  so  much 
black  walnut  on  a  given  spa^e.  Tjbis  tree,  whose  existence 
is  m  unerring  proof  of  uncommon  fertility,  is  here  the  pre- 
valent timber,  and  is  found  of  enormous  size  and  height. 

Most  part  of  the  peninsula  is  yet  unsettled  though  some 
farms  are  commenced,  and  it  is  needless  to  say,  after  what 


LET,  xrv.j 


SANDUSKY. 


181 


I  have  already  slated  of  the  soil,  that  the  crops  are  very 
promising,  particularly  maize  or  Indian  corn.  The  proper- 
ty of  soil  to  the  lands  of  the  peninsula,  belongs  to  those  who 
enjoy  the  benefits  of  what  is  called  the  fire  lands.  The  na- 
ture of  that  (enure  you  know  arose  from  a  remunerative 
grant  made  by  the  government  of  the  United  States,  to  some 
sufferers  by  British  depredation,  during  the  war  of  the 
revolution,  such  as  the  inhabitants  of  Fairfield,  Norwalk. 
and  some  other  places.  Like  most  public  donations  for  the 
moderate  benefit  of  the  many,  the  fire  grant  has  made  the 
fortunes  of  a  few ;  the  property  has  been,  perhaps,  foolishly 
undervalued,  by  most  of  those  for  whose  use  it  was  origi- 
nally separated  from  the  public  domain. 

The  town  of  Dan  bury  or  the  peninsula  of  Sandusky,  con- 
tains at  least  40  sections,  or  about.  25,600  acres,  sufficient 
for  more  than  one  hundred  moderate  farms.  rJ  he  land  is 
generally  level,  some  prairie,*  the  forest  land  extremely 
well  timbered  ;  it  will  no  doubt  become  the  seat  of  a  flour 
ishing  settlement. 

I  crossed  the  bay  from  the  peninsula  to  the  town  of  San 
dusky  or  Portland,  as  it  seems  the  village  bears  both  names. 
The  bay  is  here  about  four  miles  wide,  which  breadth  it 
maintains  almost  to  its  head,  except  at  the  narrows  about 
five  miles  above  the  village  of  Sandusky.  The  shores  are 
every  where  but  little  raised  above  the  water,  in  some  pla- 
ces flat  and  marshy,  soil  exuberantly  fertile. 

It  is  curious  to  see  in  the  heart  of  the  continent  of  North 
America,  a  country  so  perfectly  alluvial,  as  that  which  en- 
circles the  south-west  and  west  part  of  lake  Erie.  Except 
the  hill  behind  the  custom. house  on  the  peninsula,  every  oth- 
er object  in  Sandusky  bay  reminded  me  strongly  of  some 
parts  of  lower  Louisiana,  and  indeed  few  places  can  be  more 
similar  though  so  distant,  and  so  differently  situated  respect- 

*  Prairie,  this  word  is  from  the  French,  and  signifies  liter  <lly 
meadow. 


183 


SANDUSKY. 


[LET.  XIV. 


ing  the  ocean.    All  the  rivers  which  flow  into  lake  Erie  are 
intersected  by  ledges  of  rock,  at  a  greater  or  less  distance 
from  the  margin  of  (he  lake.    I  have  already  noticed  the  al- 
luvia! border  skirting  from  Buffalo,  along  the  south-east  side 
of  the  lake,  with  more  or  less  breadth  ;  though  in  some  places 
very  narrow,  as  between  Dunkirk  and  Erie.    This  alluvial 
border  is  continuous^  in  no  place  entirely  interrupted,  and 
west  of  Cayahoga  river  spreads  to  the  width  of  from  five 
to  ten  miles.    The  ridge  of  hills  which  separate  the  waters 
of  Ohio  river  from  those  of  lake  Erie,  and  to  whose  phe- 
nomena I  have  drawn  your  attention,  enters  the  state  of  Ohio 
near  the  dividing  line  of  Ashtabula  and  Trumbull  counties ; 
pursuing  a  south-west  direction  it  intersects  Trumbull  and 
Portage  diagonally,  giving  rise  no  its  south-east  slope  to 
Beaver  river  of  Ohio,  and  from  its  north-west  inclination 
flow  Grand  and  Cayahoga  rivers.    From  the  south-west  an- 
gle of  Trumbull  county,  the  dividing  ridge  assumes  a  west 
direction,  which  it  pursues  along  the  northern  border  of 
Stark,  and  Wayne,  and  more  than  half  of  that  of  Richland 
county.    From  this  latter  part  of  the  ridge,  flow  to  the 
south  the  head  waters  of  Muskingum,  and  to  the  north,  part 
of  that  of  Cayahoga,  and  the  sources  of  Rocky,  Black, 
Beaver  of  lake  Erie,  Yermillion,  and  Huron  rivers.  In 
Richland  county  the  ridge  turns  south-west,  which  course  it 
maintains  through  the  remainder  of  the  state  of  Ohio  ;  dis- 
charging southwardly  the  waters  of  Scioto  and  Miami,  and 
northwardly  those  of  Sandusky  and  Maumee  rivers.  This 
ridge  does  not  every  where  appear  in  the  actual  form  of  hills, 
with  intervening  vales,  but  spreads  into  an  extensive  table 
land.    It  is,  however,  every  where  a  distinctive  land-mark, 
and  forms  an  important  geological  feature  in  the  physiogno- 
my of  our  country.    It  appears  to  rest  upon,  and  to  be  in 
great  part,  except  the  mere  surface,  composed  of  micaceous 
or  limestone  schist.    The  rocks  forming  shelving  acclivities, 
produce  the  rapids  and  falls,  which  are  found  in  all  its  rivers. 
The  lowest  visible  ledge  of  this  vast  schistose  mass,  borders 


XET.  XIV.] 


SANDUSKY. 


(he  great  Like  Eric  alluvial  plain,  which  I  have  noticed. 
The  plain  has  all  flic  features  of  recent  alluvion  ;  the  streams 
are  sluggish  in  their  motions,  their  beds  having  hut  little  in- 
clination ;  the  land  along  the  banks  is  the  highest  part  of  the 
ground  ;  the  intervening  spaces  between  the  rivers  are  low 
and  mostly  swampy  ;  much  of  the  entire  surface  is  prairie, 
and  covered  with  an  exuberant  herbage  ;  the  soil,  where 
sufficiently  elevated  for  culture,  is  productive  to  excess  ;  and 
the  inhabitants  are  subject  to  intermitting  fevers,  during  the 
latter  part  of  the  summer  and  beginning  of  the  fall  season. 
These  are  the  attributes  of  recent  alluvion,  from  the  fens  of 
Lincolnshire,  and  Holland  ;  from  the  Pontine  marshes  to 
those  of  the  Amazon,  Oronoco,  Mississippi,  and  the  shores 
of  Erie. 

The  extent,  and  unhealthfulness  of  the  lake  Erie  alluvion, 
has  been  very  greatly  overrated.  Its  greatest  positive 
breadth  is  at  the  mouth  of  Maumee,  and  there  it  falls  short 
of  twenty  miles.  Following  the  curve  of  lake  Erie,  from 
the  mouth  of  Huron  river,  in  Huron  county,  to  Brownstown, 
in  the  Michigan  Territory,  is  about  100  miles,  and  allowing 
the  alluvion  ten  miles  wide,  would  produce  1000  square 
miles  or  6*0,000  acres.  I  am  convinced  from  all  I  have 
been  able  to  learn  respecting  the  country,  that  the  foregoing 
is  too  large  an  estimate*  Swamps  and  itats  exist  above  the 
lower  falls  in  the  rivers,  but  are  of  a  nature  essentially  dis- 
tinct from  the  alluvial  plains  along  the  lake  shore. 

The  village  of  Sandusky  contains  only  a  few  new  houses. 
The  bank  slopes  from  the  water  eilgs  a  short  distance,  and 
then  becomes  an  almost  uniform  level.  The  depth  of  soil  is 
not  considerable  |  the  bank  upon  which  the  town  is  built 
rests  upon  a  bed  of  schistose  sandstone,  of  excellent  quality 
for  building  and  pnving.  This  schistose  base  no  doubt  un- 
derlays the  whole  adjacent  country,  extending  un/ier  the 
mass  of  similar  rock  over  w  hich  the  w  aters  of  the  various 
streams  are  precipitated  in  (heir  way  from  the  higher  inte- 
rior region. 


VENICE. 


[LET.  XIV. 


I  walked  from  the  village  of  Sandusky  to  that  of  Venice, 
Tour  and  a  half  miles  higher  up  the  bay.  Quitting  the  vil- 
lage of  Sandusky  a  very  short  distance,  I  was  more  than 
over  impressed  with  the  resemblance  of  the  surface  of  the 
earth  to  many  places  I  had  seen  on  the  southern  waters  of 
the  Mississippi.  The  timber  was  in  great  part  different 
from  that  of  Louisiana,  but  with  the  exception  of  sugar  ma- 
ple considerable  resemblance  exists  in  the  forests  of  the  two 
countries.  I  found  here  upon  the  Sandusky  plain  three  or 
four  species  of  hickory,  three  or  four  of  oak,  intermixed 
with  ash,  elm,  linden,  sugar  maple,  and  an  underwood  of 
alder  and  sumac. 

I  found  Venice  situated  upon  the  western  shore  of  a  muddy 
creek,  upon  a  bank  much  lower  and  more  disadvantageous!*7 
situated  than  that  upon  which  stands  the  village  of  Sandusky 
or  Portland  ;  though  the  former  village  is  at  present  much 
larger  than  the  latter.  Each  have  the  appearance  of  towns 
in  the  first  stage  of  their  existence.  In  January  179S,  I  saw 
the  now  flourishing  Steubenville,  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  not 
more  advanced  or  promising  than  are  now  Sandusky  and 
Venice.  The  great  fertility  of  the  lands  in  their  neighbor- 
hood* and  their  situation  upon  one  of  the  best  harbors' of 
lake  Eric,  are  propitious  circumstances  in  favor  oi  their  fu- 
ture prosperity.  The  western  line  of  the  Fire  lands  and  of 
the  surveyed  part  of  the  state  of  Ohio,  crosses  Sandusky  bay 
about  two  miles  west  of  Venice,  and  continuing  north  crosses 
the  peninsula  and  leaves  the  township  of  Danbury  to  the 
cast. 

Monday,  August  10th,  I  left  Sandusky  bay  with  a  breeze 
from  the  west,  and  after  clearing  the  bar  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  peninsula,  Cunningham's  island,  and  the  southern  Bass 
island.  With  a  light  wind  upon  our  quarter  we  sailed  to  the 
north-west,  between  Cunningham's  island  and  the  peninsula* 
tlie  channel  about  three  miles  wide-  I  had  a  very  fair  view 
of  the  adjacent  shores,  and  found  them  composed,  as  I  had 
formerly  heard  them  represented,  of  schistose  sandstone  and 


LET.  XIV.] 


PUT-IN-BAY. 


crumbling  limestoac ;  (lie  latter  frequently  tohite  as  ehalfc* 
and  appears  worn  into  chasms  by  the  surf  of  the  lake,  and 
rising  from  one  to  ten  feet  above  the  water.  Cunningham's  is 
the  easternmost  and  largest  of  the  lake  Erie  islands,  is  about 
8  niiles  long  by  one  medial  width,  or  covering  perhaps  two 
thousand  acres  of  land.  Some  settlements  were  formerly 
made  upon  this  island,  but  (he  inhabitants  were  obliged  by 
the  savages  to  abandon  their  farms  during  the  last  wan 

Passing  Cunningham's,  the  Bass  islands  came  in  view  to 
die  N.  W.  about  eight  or  ten  miles  distant.  Approaching 
the  southern  Bass,  (lie  first  prominent  object  that  is  now- 
seen,  is  what  is  called  Edward's  clearing*  or  Put-in-bay* 
The  west  wind  prevented  trie  from  visiting  this  noble  harbor, 
decidedly  the  best  in  all  lake  Erie,  and  dear  to  the  American 
heart,  from  the  events  of  last  war.  It  was  from  here,  that 
on  the  morning  of  September  lCMh,  iSiS,  Commodore  Perry 
led  his  fleet,  to  obtain  the  first  naval  victory,  in  squadron, 
ever  obtained  by  the  United  States  ;  and  it  was  into  this 
bay,  that  on  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  the  captured  Bri- 
tish fleet  was  conveyed  by  its  intrepid  conquerors.  You  have 
so  often  read,  and  so  well  remember  the  detail  of  this  evenly 
that  a  repetition  here  would  be  lost  time  tons  both. 

I  passed  the  eastern  mouth  of  Put-in-bay  at  the  distance 
of  half  a  mile  ;  its  form  and  situation  are  both  admirable* 
The  Bass  islands  form  a  group  of  seven,  lying  xibout  three 
miles  from  part  of  the  Sandusky  peninsula,  and,  as  I  have 
already  observed,  seven  or  eight  niiles  north-west  of  Cun- 
ningham's island.  Putin-hay,  is  formed  by  a  curve  of  the 
largest  and  most  southern  of  the  Bass  groups,  having 
two  entrances,  one  from  the  east  and  the  other  from  the  west. 
The  bay  is  very  finely  land-locked.  The  second  large  island 
©f  the  group,  stretching  from  east  to  west  across  the  widest 
part  at  half  a  mile  distant,  and  one  of  the  smaller  islands 
lying  opposite  each  channel.  The  three  main  islands  do  not 
differ  much  in  extent,  though  that  in  which  is  Put  in-bay  is 
the  largest*    All  are  uninhabited,  and  covered  with  a  dense 

9 


±86 


&  CHICKENS. 


[let.  XIV. 


forest.  I  had  no  means  to  determine  their  area  with  certain" 
ty,  but  judged  the  three  main  islands  to  average  about  one 
and  a  half  miles  long,  and  half  a  mile  wide,  and  may  cover 
from  2,500  to  3000  acres  taken  collectively,  resting  upon  a 
solid  mass  of  schistose  rock  in  great  part  limestone.  From 
here  limestone,  for  the  purpose  of  making  lime,  is  carried  as 
far  as  Detroit  and  Cleveland.  The  soil  is  excellent,  and 
would  admit  a  little  settlement  of  thirty  or  forty  families. 
But  every  object  of  utility  to  which  the  Bass  islands  could 
be  applied,  yields  to  (he  importance  of  Put-in-bay.  This 
line  haven  admits  entrance  and  anchorage  for  vessels  of  any 
supposabic  draught,  safe  from  all  winds.  It  must  become, 
from  its  position  and  depth  of  water,  an  object  of  great  na- 
tional value.  No  harbor  in  lake  Erie,  or  in  its  connecting 
waters,  except  in  Erie  strait,  can  in  any  respect  compare 
with  it ;  its  occupation  as  a  naval  and  commercial  station 
must  one  day  take  place. 

The  w  ind  continuing  light,  we  passed  the  Bass  island  slow  - 
ly, sailing  north,  and  when  opposite  the  north-westernmost 
of  the  group,  could  also  distinctly  see  point  Pele  island 
on  the  Canada  shore.  Clearing  the  Bass  islands,  we  turned 
again  north-west,  but  were  almost  becalmed  all  the  afternoon  ; 
we,  however,  passed  (he  group  of  small  islands,  called  the 
Hen  &  Chickens,  consisting  of  four,  lying  in  a  kind  of  cres- 
cent, five  or  six  miles  north-west  of  the  northern  Bass.  We 
left  the  Hen  &  Chickens  to  the  north,  and  in  the  evening  had 
the  Bass  islands  to  the  south-cast,  the  Hen  &  Chickens  north- 
east, and  the  eastern  Sister  island  to  the  west.  We  were 
now  upon  or  very  near  the  scene  of  Perry's  battle  ;  the  eve- 
ning was  serene  and  beautiful ;  our  little  bark  glided  smooth- 
ly and  slowly  over  the  waves,  w  here  exactly  five  years,  less  one 
month  before,  the  United  States'  Hag  was  hoisted  oVertheBri- 
tish  ensign.  I  do  not  remember  to  have  ever  spent  an  evening 
;»<  sea  with  so  much  pleasure.  I  literally  fell  asleep  on  deck, 
listening  to  a  sailor  repeatedly  singing  a  rude  song,  com- 
memorative of  this  event  of  national  glory.     The  song 


XET.  XIV. 


SISTER  ISLANUS. 


187 


ster  had  himself  been  in  the  battle,  and  seemed  to  feel  a 
strong  emotion  of  national  enthusiasm  in  passing  the  now 
peaceful  scene,  where  lie  saw  the  humbled  pride  of  the  ene- 
mies of  his  country. 

There  are  three  islands  extending  south  west  from  the 
Hen  &  Chickens,  and  stretching  towards  Maumee  bay,  they 
are  called  the  eastern,  middle,  and  western  Sister,  though 
in  fact  they  lie  from  each  other  north-east  and  south  west  ; 
they  are  all  small,  neither  exceeds  twenty  or  thirty  acres. 
The  eastern  Sister,  the  smallest  of  the  three,  being  about 
three  acres,  on  which  a  considerable  part  of  general  Harri- 
son's army,  the  same  which  reconquered  Michigan,  and  de- 
feated general  Proctor  on  the  Thames,  was  encamped  from 
the  25th  to  the  27th  September,  18t3.  It  was,  in  all  human 
probability,  for  that  length  of  time,  the  best  peopled  island 
that  ever  existed  oil  our  globe. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  11th,  I  arrived  in  (he  city  of  De- 
troit, considerably  fatigued,  and  very  willing  to  enjoy  solid 
land,  though  so  short  a  time  in  the  vessel.  You  will  hear  of 
me  again  in  a  few  days, 

Adieu* 


LETTER  XV, 

Detroit,  August  14,  1818; 

Dear  But, 

I  HAVjfi  now  been  three  days  in  this  city,  which  for  many 
reasons  has  excited  and  continues  to  excite  more  attention 
than  its  apparent  magnitude  would  seem  to  justify,  Tim- 


488 


4>KTK0IT. 


[LET.  XV. 


events  of  last  Mar  contributed  to  render  both  the  city  and 
country  objects  of  great  interest  to  the  American  people. 
Like  most  events  that  have  taken  place  in  the  world,  where 
so  much  passion  was  excited,  I  am  convinced  that  those  in 
this  quarter,  and  the  operations  of  affairs  here,  have  never 
been  given  to  the  world  in  all  the  naked  purity  of  truth. 
This  much  may  be  said,  without  once  attempting  to  call  in 
question  the  veracity  of  any  individual.    Much  distortion  of 
judgment  may  exist  without  a  breach  of  rectitude.    It  would 
perhaps  be  dangerous  to  offer  an  opinion  in  mitigation  of  the 
conduct  of  general  Hull,  and  yet  if  the  expressions  of  those 
most  concerned  and  best  informed  on  this  subject,  that  is 
the  persons  wiio  were  here  before  the  war,  and  remained 
here  to  its  termination,  deserve  any  weight,  that  unfortunate 
officer  was  rather  incapable  than  treacherous,  rather  borne 
down  by  the  weight  of  the  difficulties  thai  environed  him  on 
all  sides,  than  disposed  to  sacrifice  either  the  interest  or 
honor  of  a  country,  in  whose  service  he  had  grown  grey. 
And  yet  if  these  mitigating  opinions  be  founded  upon  reality* 
general  Hull,  if  his  days  were  not  abridged,  the  remaining 
years  of  his  life  were  doomed  to  be  passed  in  bitterness  and 
regret,  for  causes  over  which  he  had  no  control,  for  calami- 
ties  in  which  he  himself  was  a  sufferer,  and  without  the 
power  to  produce  a  preventive  or  remedy. 

Detroit,  politically  and  commercially,  is  separated  by  an 
expanse  of  water,  and  by  an  uncultivated  waste,  from  the 
other  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  remains,  together  with 
the  little  community  in  its  environs,  an  isolated  moral  mass, 
having  few  sympathies  in  common,  and  but  a  slight  tie  of 
interest  to  unite  it  to  the  sovereignty  of  which  it  forms  a 
part.  Much  of  the  association  is  formed  with,  and  great 
part  of  the  trade  of  Detroit  is  yet  carried  towards  a  foreign 
state.  This  separation  of  sentiment  and  action,  is  daily  be- 
coming less  distant  between  the  great  body  of  the  United 
States  community,  and  a  small  but  important  member.  The 
ravage  tribes  arc  retiring,  and  civilized  man  extending  hi* 


•JiET.  XV\g 


DETROIT. 


189 


dwelling  over  the  wide  expanse,  from  Ohio  river  lo  lakes 
Michigan  and  Huron. 

Many  years  past,  when  I  resided  in  Louisiana,  and  when 
by  a  freak  of  folly  so  common  with  Spanish  officers,  the 
port  of  New-Orleans  was  closed  upon  the  interior  commerce 
of  the  United  States  ;  I  well  remember  that  the  two  great 
political  parties,  into  which  our  country  was  then  divided, 
though  discussing  warmly  the  most  proper  means  of  procu- 
ring this  commercial  key,  in  one  circumstance  they  were  of 
accord,  that  was,  that  the  surplus  produce  of  all  our  states 
and  territories,  situated  upon  the  tributary  streams  of  the 
Mississippi,  must  find  a  vent  by  that  great  outlet ;  and  poli- 
ticians of  all  parties  conceded  that  the  power,  whether  that 
of  Spain,  France,  Great  Britain,  or  the  United  States, 
which  possessed  New-Orleans,  must,  with  that  city,  secure 
also  the  political  and  moral  government  of  the  inhabitants  of 
countries,  whose  vital  interests  were  there  concentrated.  I 
have  heard  and  read  many  reasons  given  foi*  and  against  the 
Grand  Canal  of  New-York,  but  the  most  potent  incentive  to 
its  completion,  that  ought  to  influence  those  who  are  employ- 
ed to  carry  that  vast  project  into  execution,  has  been  geuer- 
rally  overlooked.  If  such  a  channel  of  commerce  was  open, 
the  consequence  would  be,  not  only  to  secure  to  the  United 
States  the  benefits  of  the  produce  of  its  own  industry,  but 
also  to  secure  the  moral  attachment  of  the  inhabitants  of  some 
of  its  remote,  and,  as  matters  now  stand,  most  detached  parts. 
Above  the  falls  of  Niagara,  Canadian  commerce  would  also 
flow  with  the  most  open,  unobstructed  current,  and  give  to 
the  people  of  the  United  States  an  irresistible  influence  over 
the  widest  extent,  and  most  fertile  part  of  Upper  Canada. 
Buffalo,  Detroit,  Michiiimakinac,  and  Green  bay,  would 
form  an  immense  chain  of  inter-communication,  and  by  Fox 
and  Ouisconsin  rivers,  the  commercial  rivalry  of  New-York 
and  New  Orleans  would  cojne  in  contact  in  the  heart  of  our 
country. 

O  2 


"DETROIT. 


[LET.  XV 


Detroit  is  now  a  |>laee  of  extensive  commerce,  with  all 
the  attributes  of  a  seaport ;  it  forms  the  uniting  link  between 
a  vast  interior,  inhabited  jet,  in  great  part  by  savages,  and 
1  he  eiviiized  Atlantic  border.  Yoa  here  behold  those  pon- 
derous packages  of  articles  destined  for  Indian  trade,  and 
while  viewing  those  hales  of  strotid  and  blankets;  1  could  not 
avoid  calling  to  recollection  the  time  when  I  beheld  the  same 
objects  upon  the  Ohio,  at  Pittsburg,  "Wheeling,  Marietta, 
Cincinnati,  and  Louisville;  places,  whereat  this  time,  those 
rude  articles  are  replaced  by  objects  to  satisfy  she  wants,  or 
gratify  the  luxury  of  a  polished  people.  The  resident  society 
of  Detroit,  Iras  ail  the  exterior  features  of  a  flourishing  and 
cultivated  eomm unity,  as  much  so,  equivalent  to  numbers,  as 
any  city  of  the  United  States.  I  particularly  remarked  the 
great  resemblance  between  the  current  of  business  and  mix- 
ture of  people  here,  and  at  Natchitoches  on  Red  river,  in 
Louisiana,  Each  place  occupies  the  point  of  contact,  be- 
tween the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the  wilderness,  and  the 
civilized  people,  who  are  pressing  those  natives  of  North 
America  backwards,  by  the  double  force  of  physical  and 
moral  weight.  In  each  place,  you  behold  at  one  glance  the 
extremes  of  human  improvement,  costume,  and  manners. 
You  behold  the  inhabitants  in  habiliments  that  would  suit  the 
walks  of  New  - York,  Philadelphia,  London  or  Paris,  and  jou 
also  behold  the  bushy,  bare-headed  savage,  almost  in  prime- 
val nudity.  In  the  same  store-house,  you  see  placed  upon 
l he  same  shelf,  objects  to  supply  the  first  and  last  wants  of 
human  nature. 

The  city  of  Detroit  is  situated  upon  the  right  bank  of  the 
strait  of  the  same,  which  unites  lakes  Erie  and  Huron 
N.  lat  42°  15'  36"— W.  long,  from  Washington  city  ,  5°  30  — 
or  82«  36'  west  from  London.    The  strait  (Detroit)  is  of 
very  unequal  breadth,  its  narrowest  part  is  immediately  op  - 

#  Detroit,  is  the  French  for  Strait,  and  literally  signifies  JWr- 
row  ;  from  which  change  of  an  adjective  to  a  noun,  comes  the 
name  of  Detroit. 


XET.  XV.] 


DETROIT. 


191 


posite  the  cily  of  Detroit.  I  bad  letters  to  Peter  Audrain, 
esq.  Register  of  (lie  land  ouiee  in  this  city,  which  procured 
me  access  to  the  maps  in  his  office,  amongst  which  is  an  excel- 
lent representation  of  that  part  of  the  Michigan  Territory 
which  lias  been  surveyed,  together  with  the  straits  of  St. 
Clair  and  Erie,  and  lake  St.  Clair,  connected  with  the  adja- 
cent shores  of  Canada.  I  have  copied  this  map,  from  which 
the  following  table  is  constructed  : 

TABLE 

0F  THE   STATIONARY  DISTANCES  FROM  LAKE  ERIE  TO  LAKE  HURON, 
WITH  THS  WIDTH  OP  THE  SRAITS  OPPOSITE  EACH  STATION. 

Station.  1         Mile*.  Breadth, 


Huron  river,  U.  S.  shore, 
Lower  extremity  of  Celeron  island, 
Month  of  Brown's  creek,  U.  S.  shore, 
Bois  Blanc  island,  opposite  the  lower  end 

of  Gros  isle,  - 
Upper  end  of  Bois  Blanc, 
Amherstsburg,  and  Fort  Maiden,  Canada, 
River  aux  Canards, 
Lower  end  of  Grand  Turkey  island, 
Upper  end  of  Gros  island,  U.  S.  slioie, 
Mouth  of  the  river  Ecorces, 
Upper  end  of  Grand  Turkey  island,  - 
River  Rouge,  U.  S.  shore, 
Sandwich,  in  Canada, 
City  of  DETROIT, 
Lower  end  of  Hog  island, 
Upper    do.  do. 
Lower  end  of  Peach  island, 
Upper    do.  do. 
Mouth  of  Huron  river,  of  lake  St.  Clair, 

and  entrance  to  Anchor  bay, 
Mouth  of  St.  Clair  river, 
Outlet  of  the  Eagle  channel, 
Outlet  of  the  Warpole  channel, 
Outlet  of  the  Chenail  Ecrate, 
Mouth  of  Belie  Riviere, 
Mouth  of  Pine  river, 
Lower  end  of  isle  aux  Cerfe, 
Upper  end  of  do. 
River  Delude,  U.  S.  shore, 
Fort  Gratiot,  M.  T.  and  entrance  to  lake 

Hurcn,  -         -  - 


1 
1 

1  1-4 
1-4 
3  1-2 
I 

2 


2 

1  1-2 

2  l-' 
2 

I 
1 

19 
7 

4 
3 
2 

4 
8 
4 
2 
5 


21  1-2 


4 
5 
5 
9 

10 
12 
14 
17 
13 
20 
2 

24 
26 
27 
28 

47 
54 
58 
61 
63 
67 
75 
79 
81 
86 


1-4 
1-2 


89  t 


[l.ET.  XT. 


These  distances  are  not  taken  with  precision  to  small  frac- 
tions of  a  mile,  hut  measuring  <hc  entire  distances  by  live 
mile  sections  taken  from  the  scale,  the  respective  results  are 
sufficiently  near  as  to  answer  all  general  purposes,  and  w  ill 
suffice  to  enable  you  to  form  an  accurate  idea  of  the  rela- 
tive position  of  the  places  named.  I  have  not  given  in 
the  table  (he  bread! h  cf  St.  Clair  river,  above  (he  Che- 
nail  Ecarte,*  as  it  is  uniformly  about  three  fourths  of  a 
mile. 

Approaching  the  month  of  Detroit  river,  the  shores  on 
^11  sides  are  low*  no  land  is  seen  that  rises  to  any  considera- 
ble elevation  above  the  water.  The  ship  channel  hcing-on 
the  Canada  side,  vessels  pass  close  upon  the  cape  below7  Am- 
Jjerstfaurg  ;  the  shores  rise  here  very  gently  from  the  lake, 
soil  sandy,  but  appear  well  settled  and  cultivated.  Huron 
l  iver  of  lake  Erief  enters  from  Michigan  Territory,  where 
the  lake  is  so  contracted  as  to  render  it  a  suitable  point  to 
commence  the  name  of  the  strait,  though  no  perceptible 
current  appears  below  the  bottom  of  Bcis  Blanc  island.  A 
jjroup  of  small  islands  encircle  the  lower  end  of  Gros  isle, 
of  *vlsieh  Celeron,  Hickory,  Sugar,  Fox,  and  particularly 
Bois  Blanc,  are  the  principal.  The  latter  is  indeed  of  great 
consequence,  It  is  high,  dry,  and  fit  for  culture,  covered 
with  timber,  soil  extremely  fertile  ;  but  what  renders  it  a 
particular  object  of  interest,  is  the  circumstance  of  its  com- 
pletely commanding  the  main  ship  channel  to  Detroit.  A 
much  wider  expanse  of  water  lies  between  Bois  Blanc  and 
Gros  isle,  and  between  Gros  isle  and  the  continent  of  Mi 

*  The  terrh  Chenal,  or  mere  correctly  Chenal  Ecarte,  signifies 
literally  dispersed  or  scattered,  and  is  very  well  applied  o  the  out- 
let of  rivers;  but  the  same  name  is  given  in  several  instances  in 
Canada  to  waters  flowing  into  others,  therefore  very  improper. 

f  There  are  three  rivers  of  this  name,  two  of  which  enter  lake 
Erie,  and  one  Anchor  bay  in  lake  St.  Clair.  It  is  extremely  per- 
plexing, such  repetition  of  the  same  narjes  (or  places  so  near  each 

other.  . 


XET.  XV-. ] 


AMHERSTBURft. 


193 


chigan  Territory,  than  flows  between  Bois  Blanc  and  (he  Can- 
ada shore,  but  the  latter,  though  not  above  one  quarter  of  a 
mile  wide,  is  deep  enough  for  the  largest  vessel,  whilst  the 
others  are  shallow,  and  perplexed  with  small  islands  and 
sunken  bars. 

During  last  war,  a  small  battery  was  erected  on  the  lower 
point  of  Bois  Blanc, 'which  is  now  deserted,  and  the  island 
now  serves  as  a  camping  ground  for  the  savages  w  ho  visit 
Ainherstburg.  This  island  will  he  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant points  which  the  commissioners,  wilder  the  treaty  of 
Ghent,  will  have  to  deters  inc.  At  Amherst  burg  the  banks 
have  gradually  risen  to  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  above  the  water, 
sloping  by  very  gentle  acclivity.  The  town  contains  from 
250  to  300  houses,  mostly  of  wood,  and  perhaps  twelve  hun- 
dred people.  The  harbor  is  excellent,  the  water  continuing 
deep  to  very  near  the  shore.  Some  fine  ware-houses  line  the 
banks,  and  with  the  shipping  give  a  commercial  air  to  the 
plaee.  The  adjacent  farms  have  an  elegant  appearance, 
and  follow  each  oilier  without  inn  eh  interval  of  uncleared 
land. 

Fort  Maiden,  by  which  name  Amherstburg  was  formerly 
known,  stands  above  the  town,  but  is  now  in  ruins,  only  some 
dilapidated  breast  works  and  barracks  remain,,  be  perhaps 
never  repaired.  * 

Gros  isle  is  a  fine  body  of  land,  eight  miles  long  by  a  me- 
dial width  of  one  and  a  half  miles,  contains  about  twelve 
sections  of  a  mile  square,  or  7,G80  acres  of  excellent  land. 
Several  farms  have  been  opened  on  this  island,  but  the  great- 
est part  of  its  surface  continues  under  a  heavy  forest.  From 
the  upper  point  of  Bois  Blanc  island,  the  ship  channel  grad- 
ually leaves  the  Canada  shore,  and  passes  between  Gros  and 
Grand  Turkey  island,  the  main  channel  about  two  miles 
wide.  Turkey  island  is  about  seven  miles  in  length  and  one 
mile  medial  breadth,  much  of  its  surface  marshy.  The 
riviere  aux  Canards  or  Duck  river,  falls  into  the  strait 
from  the  Canada  side,  one  mile  below  the  lower  point  of 


STRAIT* 


£let.  XV. 


Grand  Turkey  island  ;  the  riviere  aux  Ecorees  or  Bark 
liver  from  Michigan  Territory,  enters  something  above  i(s 
middle*  or  two  miles  above  the  higher  point  of  Gros  isle  ; 
riviere  Rouge  or  lied  river,  falls  into  the  strait,  also  from 
Michigan  Territory,  four  miles  above  t!i£  riviere  aux  Iv  or- 
ees,  and  one  mile  above  the  higher  extremity  of  Grand  Tur- 
key island.  Above  the  latter  island,  (he  strait  suddenly  con- 
traets  from  four  to  one  and  a  "quarter  wide,  and  continues 
becoming  narrower  to  the  city  of  Detroit,  where  its  width 
falls  short  of  a  mile. 

In -coming  up  the  strait,  when  the  woods  of  Gros  isle  are 
cleared,  both  shores  exhibit  lines  of  farm  houses,  intersper- 
sed with  orchards  and  gardens.  The  settlements  on  the 
United  S(aie3  side,  continue  up  the  rivieres  Ecorees  and 
Rouge,  which,  together  with  those  along  the  shore  of  that 
strait,  present  a  country  in  a  high  state  of  culture.  The 
Canada  shore  is  not  less  improved  than  that  of  the  United 
States  ;  farm  follows  farm  upon  both  banks,  which,  with  the 
houses,  wind-mills,  and  vessels  on  the  strait,  afford  a  fine 
picture  of  agricultural  and  commercial  prosperity. 

The  banks  upon  the  United  States  shore,  rise  from  the 
waterless  abruptly  than  those  of  Canada,  except  at  the 
spring  mill,  three  miles  below  the  city  of  Detroit,  where  the 
former  rises  to  the  height  of 'twenty  or  thirty  feet,  appear- 
ing as  a  comparative  hill  as  seen  from  the  strait.  All  the 
rivers  and  creeks  enter  from  both  sides,  through  low;, 
swampy  land  covered  with  folle  avoine,  or  wild  oats,  This 
aquatic  grain,  though  thus  named,  is  nevertheless  essentially 
different  from  either  oats  or  rice  j  no  vegetable  that  I  have 
ever  seen,  has  a  more  beautiful  appearance  than  is  exhibited 
by  the  immense  marshes,  covered  with  the  folle  avoine  ;  it 
is  now  in  blossom,  exhaling  a  peculiarly  pleasing  fragrance. 

Sandwich  is  a  smalltown,  though  the  seat  of  justice  in 
Essex  county,  Upper  Canada  ;  it  stands  upon  the  banks  of  the 
strait,  one  and  a  half  mile  below  Dotroit.  I  walked  down 
yesterday  to  the  ferry  opposite,  and  crossed  over  to  Sand- 


XET.  XY.] 


DETROIT, 


wieh,  and  returned  to  this  city  in  the  evening.  I  found  it  a 
village  built  principally  of  wood,  composing  a  single  street 
running  parallel  to  (he  strait*  with  about  as  many  stores  and 
taverns  as  would  be  found  in  a  place  of  similar  size  in  the 
United  States.  The  banks  slope  gradually  from  the  water, 
though  immediately  above  the  town,  they  rise  abrupt,  and 
appear  considerably  higher  than  those  opposite,  upon  winch 
tiie  city  of  Detroit  is  built.  The  shores  of  the  strait  on  both 
sides  are  cleared  of  timber  from  one  and  a  half  to  three 
miles  from  the  water,  giving  the  country  in  the  rear  of  the 
front  farm  houses  a  naked  appearance.  The  woods,  where 
not  cut  down,  is  excessively  dense,  and  the  timber  large. 
The  soil,  if  any  judgment  can  be  formed  by  the  aspect  of  the 
crops,  is  very  productive.  The  bank  of  the  strait  has  been 
\aunted, I  believe  correctly,  for  its  fine  orchards  ;  fruit  trees* 
apples,  pears,  peaches,  and  plumbs,  have  a  very  healthy  ap- 
pearance. 

The  city  of  Detroit  is  exceedingly  well  situated  for  a  com  - 
mercial port  ;  the  banks  rise  gently  from  the  water,  afford- 
ing an  easy  communication  with  the  store-houses  in  the  city. 
Several  wharves  have  been  extended  to  considerable  dis- 
tance into  the  stream,  the  largest  and  best  of  which  was 
made  by  the  officers  of  the  United  States  troops,  for  the  use 
of,  and  in  front  of  the  garrison.  The  streets  are  laid  out 
at  right  angles  to  each  other,  but  are  all  inclining  from  the 
banks  of  the  strait.  The  main-street  leaves  the  strait  in 
front  of  the  garrison,  but  at  the  upper  end  of  the  city  lias 
two  other  parallel  streets  between  it  and  the  wharves.  rI lie 
cross  streets  are  not  of  much  consequence  at  present,  having 
but  few  houses  built  upon  them,  except  near  line  main-street. 
Leaving  the  lower  end  of  the  city,  it  is  difficult  to  know 
where  it.  terminates,  as  the  farm  houses  are  so  closely  uni- 
ted to  each  other.  Above  the  city,  though  the  margin  of 
the  strait  is  well  cultivated,  the  farm  houses  do  not  stand 
so  compact  as  they  do  below. 


19$  DETROIT*  [LET*  XlT. 

I  have  found  two  men  hei*e>  from  whom  I  have  received 
inuch  useful  information  and  polite  treatment,  governor  Cass 
and  judge  May,  the  hitler  of  whom  has  resided  at  Detroit 
forty  years,  and  possesses,  perhaps,  more  correct  knowledge 
of  its  history,  than  any  man  living.  Gov*  Cass  resides  on 
the  banks  of  the  strait  below  the  garrison.  To  these  two 
excellent  men  I  am  under  very  great  obligations.  The  gov- 
ernor leaves  this  city  on  the  16th  to  meet  the  governor  of 
Ohio,  in  order  to  hold  a  treaty  with  the  Putawattamies,  Wy- 
andotS;  Seneeas.  Weas,  and  other  nations  of  Indians.-^ 

*  This  treaty  resulted  in  the  following  cessions  of  Iand?  with 
the  annexed  reservations.  The  cessions  are  of  great  conse- 
quence to  the  frontiers  of  Ohio  ajud  Michigan,  as  it  tends  to  re- 
move the  savages  to  a  greater  distance  westward. 

"  Cincinnati,  Oct.  15. 

"  Treaties  tvith  the  Indians. — Our  correspondent  at  St.  Mary's 
lias  furnished  us  with  the  following  hasty  sketch  of  the  treaties 
concluded  with  the  Indians  by  our  commissioners.  The  treaties 
were  signed  on  the  6th  inst.  By  these  treaties  the  United  States 
liave  seem  ed  more  than  seven  millions  of  acres  of  land. 

"  We  learn  from  our  correspondent  that  the  Miamis  manifest- 
ed a  great  deal  of  duplicity  in  their  negotiations. 

(i  To  the  states  of  Ohio  and  Indiana  these  acquisitions  are  of 
immense  importance.  In  a  few  years  these  almost  interminable 
forests  will  be  converted  into  flourishing  towns  and  villages,  and 
cultivated  farms  :  the  silent  footsteps  of  the  savage  will  give  way 
to  the  resounding  of  the  axe,  the  din  of  industry,  and  the  bustle 
of  commercial  enterprise. 

"  REVISION  OF  THE  TREATY  OP  1817. 

"  Additional  reserves  by  the  V/yandots  at  Upper  Sandusky  % 
on  tl\e  north  side  between  the  Cherokee  Koys  reserve  and  the  12 
miles  640  acres,  connecting  the  two  $  and  on  east  side  of  the  12 
miles.  55,680  acres. 

"  To  the  Wvnndots,  residing  at  Solomon's  town,  16,000  acres 
to  centre  at  Big  Spring,  between  Upper  Sandusky  and  Fort  Find- 
in  v  and  163  acres  lower  side  Mrs.  Whitaker's  reserve  at  Lower 
Sandusky,  reserved  fot  a  ferry  or  crossing  place  for  the  ■Indians. 

"  To  the  Shawanoes  on  the  cast  side  of  the  former  reserve  at 
Wupnkanetto,  12,800  acres. 

"  To  the  Shawanoes  and  Seneeas  on  the  west  side  of  Lewis? 
reserve  of  7.  miles,  8,960  acres  ;  all  to  be  equally  divided  east  and 
west  the  north  half  for  the  Seneeas.  and  the  south  half  for  the  Shaw- 
.anoes. 


XET.  XV.] 


MICHIGAN, 


197 


Respecting  the  present  state  of  the  population  of  the  Ter- 
ritory of  Michigan,  I  do  not  expect  to  receive  much  pos- 
itive information,  not  contained  in  the  census  of  1810.  Of 
the  position  of  the  settlements,  and  the  quantity,  quality  and 

#  To  the  Seneca  Indians  adjoining  south  of  their  reserve  of 
1817  on  eaeli  side  Sandusky  river,  10,000  acres. 

u  Additional  Annuities. — To  the  Wyandots,  5  00  .dollars ;  Shaw- 
anoes  and  Senecas  of  Lewis'  town,  1000  dollars  ;  Senecas  on  San- 
dusky river  300  dollars  :  Ottaways,  .,500  dollars  ;  perpetually  to 
be  paid  annually.  All,  together  with  annuities  heretofore  grant- 
ed, payable  in  specie. 

"  treaty  of  1818. 

"  The  Putfawattamies  cede  from  the  mouth  of  Tippecanoe  riv- 
er up  the  same  to  a  point  that  will  be  25  miles  from  the  Wabash 
on  a  direct  line  ;  thence  parallel  with  the  general  course  of  the 
Wabash  to  the  Vermillion  river,  down  the  same  to  the  Wabash, 
thence  down  the  Wabash  to  the  place  of  beginning  (supposed  to 
be  50  or  60  miles,)  all  their  title  south  of  the  Wabash,  for  which 
they  are  to  receive  $2,500  in  specie,  annually  forever,  to  be  paid 
equally  at  Detroit  and  Chicago  5  also  annuities  heretofore  grant- 
ed to  be  paid  in  specie. 

"Grants  to  the  following  persons,  half  bloods,  James,  John, 
Isaac,  Jacob  and  Abraham  Burnet,  two  sections  of  land  each  ; 
and  to  Rebecca  and  Nancy  Burnet,  one  section  of  land  each — 
half  of  the  same  on  the  lower  side  of  the  mouth  of  Tippecanoe 
river,  on  Wabash,  and  the  other  half  on  Flint  river. 

"  610  acres  to  Peerish,  a  Puttawattamie  chief,  on  Flint  river,  at 
his  residence. 

j£  640  acres  to  Mary  Chattalie,  on  Wabash,  below  the  mouth  of 
Pine  river. 

"The  Weas  cede  their  whole  interest  in  Ohio  Indiana  and  Il- 
linois— Reservation  of  7  miles  square,  on  Wabash,  above  the 
mouth  of  Raccoon  creek.  The  United  States  to  pay  them  a  per- 
petual annuity  of  1 150  dollars,  which,  added  to  annuities  hereto- 
fore, makes  3000  dollars  annually,  all  payable  in  specie. 

6i  The  Delawares  cede  all  their  claims  in  Indiana  on  White  river. 
The  United  States  to  furnish  them  lands  to  settle  on  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  on  the  Arkansas  ;  pay  them  for  their  improvements 
where  they  now  live  in  120  horses,  not  to  exceed  40  dollars  in 
value  each  ;  furnish  perogues  for  transportation,  provisions  for 
their  journey,  permit  them  to  occupy  for  three  years  hereafter 
their  farms  oil  White  river,  and  to  pay  them  a  perpetual  annu- 
ity of  4000  dollars,  which,  together  with  annuities  now  existing 
arc  payable  in  specie — Also  to  furnish  them  with  a  blacksmith 
when  they  settle  west  of  the  Mississippi.    They  reserve  two  and  a 


198 


MICHIGAN* 


[LET.  XV. 


locality  of  the  cultivatihle  soil,  I  have  procured  considerable' 
document  not  hitherto  made  public.  Our  ordinary  maps  are 
deplorably  deficient  respecting  (he  peninsula  of  Michigan, 
some  of  the  most  important  livers  are  slightly  marked  or 
wholly  omitted.  Before  proceeding  to  give  you  a  detail  of 
the  extent,  position,  and  respective  quality  of  the  soil,  1  will 
present  you  with  the  result  of  what  I  have  learned  in  gen- 
eral, respecting  the  geological"  structure  of  the  peninsula, 
contained  between  lakes  Michigan,  Huron,  St.  Clair,  and 
Erie,  and  the  straits  of  Erie  and  St.  Clair. 

It  is  most  probable  that  the  entire  region  above  the  Thou- 
sand islands  to  lake  Superior,  reposes  upon  a  bed  of  floetz  or 
schistic  rock,  of  various  component  parts.  I  have  already 
noticed  the  phenomena  which  came  to  my  knowledge,  along 
the  south  and  west  of  lake  Erie,  and  pointed  out  their  effect 
upon  the  structure  of  the  rivers  of  that  tract  of  country. 
Beyond  the  Maumee  to  lake  Huron,  all  the  streams,  without 
exemption,  which  draw  their  sources  from  the  interior  part 
of  the  peninsula,  are  precipitated  over  considerable  falls  be- 
fore arriving  at  their  mouths.  You  will  perceive  by  the! 
notes  extracted  from  Audrain's  map,5*  the  materials  which 
compose  the  rocks,  ever  whose  ledges  these  falls  of  water 
are  thrown.    It  appears  also  that  at  the  distance  of  twenty 

half  sections  of  land  at  First  creek,above  Old  Fort  and  are  to  receive 
13,320  dollars  for  the  liquidation  of  debts  owed  bv  them  to  traders, 
&c. 

The  Miamiescede  their  interest  to  the  country  east  of  the  Wa- 
bash, south  of  a  line  from  Fort  Wayne  west  to  the  Wabash  ;  re- 
serving one  tract  of  30  miles  square  on  the  Wabash,  besides  a 
great  many  others  ofless  magnitude.  The  United  States  to  pay 
them  $  15,000  per  annum,  perpetually,  in  specie. 

#  I  have  given  this  map  the  name  of  Audrain  in  the  text,  as  it 
was  from  Mr.  Audrain  I  procured  a  copy  ;  but  in  justice  it  ought 
to  be  noticed  that  the  map  was  constructed  by  Mr.  Greely,  the 
United  States'  Surveyor  in  Michigan  Territory,  and  those  useful 
notes  were  made  upon  the  original  map  by  Mr.  Greely,  in  his  own 
'hand  writing. 


LET.  XV-]  MICHIGAN-  199 

or  twenty-five  miles  from  (he  extreme  depression  of  the  val- 
ley of  St.  Clair  and  Erie,  that  the  table  hind  of  Michigan 
becomes  flat,  and  covered  with  innumerable  ponds  and  inter- 
locking water  courses.  The  rivers  have  (heir  sources  upon 
fills  extensive  flat,  and  flow  south-east  into  St.  Clair  and 
Erie,  and  north-west  into  Michigan,  passing  over  an  arable 
border  of  about  twenty-five  miles  wide,  which  skirt  the  lakes 
and  straits  from  Maumee  to  Calumet.  Some  of  the  interior 
plateau  is  described  as  good  land,  but  the  face  of  the  coun- 
try is  generally  too  level,  and  of  course  subject  to  immersion 
in  wet  seasons. 

The  length  of  the  rivers  which  flow  from  this  table  land 
is  remarkably  equal,  and  their  banks  composed  of  very  sim- 
ilar soil,  and  covered  with  timber  of  correlative  species. 
Extensive  tracts,  are  open  natural  meadows  or  prairie. 

From  the  foregoing  you  will  perceive  that  the  peninsula 
of  Michigan  is  a  vast  cape,  projected  northwards  from  the 
elevated  region,  from  which  ilow  the  Wabash,  Maumee,  and 
the  eastern  streams  of  the  Illinois  river. 

In  executing  the  surveys  in  the  Michigan  Territory,  a 
meridian  line  has  been  drawn,  commencing  on  the  river 
Raisin  about  five  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  continuing  from 
thence  due  north  seventy-two  miles,  from  whence  was  drawn 
another  line  due  east  fifty  two  miles,  which  intersects  the 
head  of  St.  Clair  river  at  Fort  Gratiot.  I  do  not  know  in 
what  manner  the  surveys  were  made,  but  this  is  their  out- 
line, as  they  stand  represented  in  the  land  office  in  the  city  of 
Detroit.  Bounded  west  and  north  by  these  lines,  and  upon 
ail  other  sides  by  St.  Clair  river,  St.  Clair  lake,  Detroit 
river,  and  lake  Erie.  The  ancient  settlements  were  formed 
along  the  water  courses,  and  continue  to  be  in  most  part  the 
only  establishments  yet  made  in  the  territory. 

The  superficies  included  in  the  surveys,  does  not  vary 
much  from  2,500  square  miles  or  1.600,000  acres.  Some 
part  of  the  United  States  land  in  this  area  has  been  sold, 
but  the  sales  did  not  operate  to  add  much  to  the  population 


200 


MICHIGAN. 


[let-  XV. 


of  (he  country.  The  valuable  fractions  of  sections  were  in 
a  great  share  purchased  by  the  resident  inhabitants,  and  an- 
nexed to  lands  already  in  their  possession.  Though  the  soil 
is  good  in  general,  some  of  it  excellent,  and  all  parts  well 
situated  for  agriculture  and  commerce,  some  causes  have 
hitherto  operated  to  prevent  any  serious  emigration  to  the 
Michigan  Territory.  For  upwards  of  a  month  that  I  have 
been  (ravelling  between  this  city  and  Geneva,  in  the  state  of 
New-York,  I  have  seen  hundreds  removing  to  the  west,  and 
not  one  in  fifty  with  an  intention  to  settle  in  Michigan  Terri- 
tory. By  the  census  of  1S10,  the  inhabitants  then  were 
4,762,  falling  short  of  5,000.  I  cannot  be  led  to  consider 
this  enumeration  correct,  there  were  in  all  reasonable  modes 
of  calculation,  more  than  6,000  people  in  this  territory  at 
that  period.  I  cannot  consider  the  present  number  short  of 
10,000.  though  since  1810,  no  increment  has  been  added  of 
consequence  to  the  mass,  except  that  of  natural  increase. 
The  city  of  Detroit  contains  at  least  1,200  people,  and  it 
does  not  include  more  than  one  eighth  of  the  whole  body. 

The  lines  of  settlement  extend  along  the  river  Raisin,  Hu- 
ron of  lake  Erie,  Detroit  river,  riviere  aux  Eeorces,  river 
Rouge,  lake  St,  Clair,  Huron  of  St.  Clair,  and  St.  Clair 
river.  Many  other  minor  streams  are  also  lined  with  set- 
tlements. I  have  already  observed  the  great  uniformity  in 
the  quality  of*  the  land.  In  no  country  in  which  I  have  trav- 
elled, are  there  to  be  seen  so  much  sameness  in  that,  and  in- 
deed in  many  other  respects,  This  monotony  does  not,  how* 
ever,  extend  to  the  productions  of  the  soil,  which  are  as 
varied  as  the  climate  will  admit  ;  small  grain  of  all  kinds 
that  can  be  cultivated  north  of  lat.  42°,  can  be  reared  in 
abundance.    Fruits  are  remarkably  productive. 

The  climate,  at  least  as  far  north  as  Fort  Gratiot,  is  as  tem- 
perate as  that  of  the  western  parts  of  the  state  of  New-York, 
and  perhaps  more  healthy.  It  is  conceded  that  the  seasons 
arc  much  more  mild  at  Detroit  than  at  Buffalo,  the  differ- 
ence is  greater  than  could  be  expected  from  the  small  differ- 


MT,  XV.] 


MICHIGAN 


201 


enee  m  latitude,  less  than  one  degree.  The  phenomenon 
may  be,  and  I  believe  it  is  produced  by  the  prevalence  of 
westerly  winds,  which  crowd  the  ice  continually  into  the 
W«  E.  angle  of  lake  Erie. 

The  following  notes  I  extracted  from  the  map  in  Mr.  Au- 
drain's office  ;  they  will  afford  you  some  knowledge  of  parts 
of  our  country  hitherto  unknown. 

"  Riviere  aux  Raisins,  (Grape  river)  is  a  rapid  stream  of 
about  150  miles  in  length,  and  generally  four  chains  in 
breadth.  During  the  time  of  freshets,  large  rafts  of  tim- 
ber can  descend  the  river  from  the  confluence  of  the  Nee- 
meeon,  a  considerable  branch,  about  2*  miles  from  lake 
Erie.  Six  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  Raisin,  its 
rapidity  is  such  that  it  can  only  be  ascended  with  light  ca- 
noes j  at  the  mouth  it  has  a  sand  bar,  which  obstructs  the 
entrance  of  vessels  drawing  more  than  two  feet  water. 

The  banks  are  clothed  with  heavy  oak,  hickory,  ash,  elm, 
linden,  yellow  wood  (liriodeutlron  tulipifera)  the  latter  an- 
swering well  for  boards  ;  the  soil  is  a  black  loam." 

"  Huron  of  Erie,  can  be  ascended  150  miles  to  a  portage 
ef  about  3  miles,  into  a  stream  called  the  Grand  river,  en- 
tering into  lake  Michigan.  The  river  Huron  is  about  200 
miles  in  length  ;  course  from  the  west,  and  general  width 
four  chains  88  yards. 

Vessels  drawing  four  feet  water  can  enter  and  ascend  four 
miles.  The  land  is  generally  hilly  on  the  southern  border, 
having  good  limber  and  rich  soil ;  and  on  the  northern  bor- 
der extensive  prairies,  light  sandy  soil." 

"  Riviere  Rouge  is  about  two  chains  in  width,  discharging 
into  the  strait  of  Erie  about  four  miles  below  the  city  of  De- 
troit ;  it  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  16  feet  water,  four 
miles  from  its  mouth  to  the  ship  yard ;  thence  for  craft 
drawings  feet  water,  8  miles,  it  then  branches  into  conside- 
rable streams,  upon  which  the  lands  are  excellent.  The 
fimbcr  on  the  banks  of  this  river  is  oak,  sugar  maple,  elul« 

P 


MICHIGAN 


[LET.  XV. 


bass  wood,  f  linden  J  poplar,  fliriodendron  tulipifcra  J  and 
oak.    The  soil  is  a  black  loam," 

«  Huron  oflake  St.  Clair,  is  generally  about  three  chains 
(65  rai  ds)  hi  width,  and  navigable  for  boats  drawing  three 
ieet  \va(er  ten  miles,  It)  (he  first  branch.  The  main  branch* 
interlocks  witli  the  northern  branches  of  the  r  iver  Rouge. 
rJ  he  border  of  (his  river  is  covered  with  excellent  w  hite  oak, 
and  the  soil  is  equal  to  any  in  the  territory." 

These  notes  were  taken  by  me  from  the  original  map,  in 
the  surveyor's,  Mr.  Aaron  Grcly's  own  hand  writing.  I 
deem  them  of  statistical  importance,  as  being  made  from 
actual  observation  under  the  authority  of  the  United  States 
government,  and  as  they  tend  to  establish  the  great  general 
features  of  the  rivers  of  Michigan  Territory. 

It  may  be  observed  as  a  curious  geological  coincidence, 
that  the  Michigan  peninsula  is  contrasted  with  another  pro- 
jection of  land,  of  a  similar  general  form  and  very  nearly 
equal  extent.  The  Canadian  peninusula  is,  however,  more 
insulated -than  that  of  Michigan.  The  former  is  also  dis- 
tinguished from  (lie  latter  by  some  other  peculiar  features. 
The  river  Thames  (hi  riviere  a  la  Tranche)  of  the  French 
or  Escansippi  of  the  savages,  rises  in  very  near  the  centre  of 
the  Canadian  peninsula,  runs  to  the  south-west,  having  also 
another  parallel  and  almost  equal  stream  to  the  Chenal 
Ecarte,  flowing  both  into  the  eastern  side  of  lake  St.  Clair. 

It  is  remarkable  that  these  two  streams  are  without  fails 
or  rapids  in  ail  their  course  ;  the  Thames  about  one  hundred, 
and  the  Chenal  Eeartc  eighty  miles  in  length.  This  exemp- 
tion from  rapids  is  the  case,  however,  with  all  the  known 
streams  of  this  part  of  Canada,  and  proves  that  its  surface 
is  much  lower  (ban  that  of  the  Michigan  peninsula.  The 
mil  of  the  former,  from  a!!  the  concurrent  accounts  I  have 
penl  is  even  siili  more  fertile  than  that  of  the  hitter. 

Mr.  Samuel  11.  Brown,  author  of  the  Western  Gazetteer, 
i r  peaking  from  personal  observation,  having  been  in  general 
Harrison's  army  when  that  officer  pursued  general  Proctor 


LET,  XV. j 


MICHIGAN. 


203 


up  the  Thames,  stated  (hat,  "  The  land  in  this  pari  of  the 
«•  Upper  Province  is  uncommonly  fertile*  and  admirably  eal- 
*«  eulated  for  farms.  Oa  the  river  there  are  extensive  hot- 
•4  ioms,  then  a  gentle  rise  of  beautiful  limbered  land,  to 
ii  which  succeed  openings  well  calculated  for  wheat.95 

[Jlr.  Broicn's  fmnphUU  Troy,  181*,  p<  0& 
Smith's   Gazetteer   of  Upper  Canada,   describing  the 
Thames,  observes  that,  "  I.t  is  a  fine  inland  canal,  and  capa- 
"  ble  of  being  greatly  improved.    The  lands  on  i(s  banks 
*«  are  extremeJv  fcftijf.," 

Mr.  Bouchette  gives  a  richly  coloured,  bnt  1  am  induced 
to  believe  a  true  sketch  of  this  charming  country. 

"  Along  the  northern  part  of  the  Niagara  district  runs  a 
ridge  called  the  Queenstown  heights,  stretching  across  the 
river  Niagara,  and  away  eastward  into  the  state  of  New- 
York  ;  the  altitude  of  this  range  in  any  part  of  it,  does  not 
exceed  160  yards  above  the  surface  of  the  lake,  (Ontario.) 
This  space  containing  (he  Newcastle,  the  Home,  ami  the  Nia- 
gara districts,  is  watered  by  a  great  number  of  streams,  both 
large  and  small,  that  greatly  contribute  to  il s  fertility  ;  in 
the  latter  district  is  the  Weiiand,  formerly  called  the  Chip- 
pewa, a  beautiful  river,  flowing  through  a  remarkable  fertile 
country  for  about  forty  miles,  and  wholly  unobstructed  by 
falls  ;  aiso  the  Quae  or  Grand  river,  a  stream  of  much  great- 
er magnitude,  rising  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  towards 
lake  Huron,  and  after  winding  a  long  and  picturesque  course, 
falls  into  lake  Erie  :  across  its  mouth  there  is  a  bar,  but 
always  with  eight  feet  water  upon  it.  It  is  navigable  for 
small  voxels  from  the  lake  many  miles  upwards,  and  for 
boats  to  a  much  greater  distance. 

•4  The  land  through  the  whole  of  the  last  mentioned  dis- 
trict is  uiKomnionly  rich  and  fertile,  with  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  very  flourishing  settlements  upon  it.  From  the  river 
Ouse,  proceeding  along  the  shore  of  lake  Erie,  up  to  the 
lake  and  river  St.  Ckir,  the  whole  space  is  extremely  even. 
With  scarcely  a  league  of  it  but  what  displays  excellent  situ- 


MICHIGAN.  [let.  xv# 

aiions  for  settlements,  and  in  spots  where  (lie  land  is  already 
under  tillage  ;  finer  crops  or  more  thriving  farms  are  not  to 
be  met  with  in  any  part  of  either  province.' 

M  The  portion  of  the  western  district,  lying  between  lake 
Erie  and  Sake  Si,  Clair,  is  perphaps  the  most  delightful  of 
all  the  province.  The  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  richly  dive 
sificd  and  luxuriant  beauties  that  every  where  court  tin 
view,  the  abundant  variety  of  excellent  ftsli  that  teem  in  ihi 
rivers,  and  the  profusion  of  game  of  different  species  that 
enliven  the  woods,  the  thickets  and  (he  meadows,  combine 
to  insure  a  preference  to  this  highly  favored  tract  for  the 
establishment  of  new  settlements. 

f*  From  the  Ouse  to  lake  St.  Clair,  the  space  is  occupied 
by  the  London  and  Western  districts  ;  it  is  watered  by  ma- 
ny small  streams  falling  into  lake  Erie,  besides  the  river 
Chenal  Ecarte,  and  the  exquisitely  picturesque  river 
Thames,  formerly  called  the  riviere  a  la  Franehe.  The 
latter  rises  far  in  the  interior,  about  the  township  of  Bland- 
ford,  and  after  pursuing  a  serpentine  course  in  a  direction 
nearly  south-west,  discharges  itself  into  lake  St.  Clair.  It 
is  navigable  for  vessels  full  twenty  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  (or  boats  and  canoes- nearly  tip  to  its  source,  but  little 
less  than  one  hundred  miles.  The  river  Chenal  Ecarte  runs 
almost  parallel  to  the  Thames,  at  about  ten  miles  from  it, 
siml  also  fails  into  Lake  St.  Clair.  The  portions  now  des- 
cribed are  those  only  that  are  more  or  less  settled  upon, 
III  the  rear  of  the  townships  arc  large  tracts  of  land  stretch- 
ing far  to  the  northward,  covered  with  immense  forests,  and 
lit  tic  know  n  except  to  the  Indians  ;  but  it  has  been  ascer- 
tained that  there  are  many  wide  spreading  extents  of  rich 
and  fertile  soil,  particularly  bordering  upon  the  south-West 
bank  of  (he  Ottawa  river.  Through  these  regions,  as  jet 
unexplored  by  civilized  man,  there  are  many  streams,  and 
some  of  great  size  that  flow  both  into  lake  Huron  and  into 
the  Ottawa  river  but  none  of  (hem  have  been  sufficiently 
traced  to  admit  of  being  delineated  on  any  map.    Timber  in 


) 


LET.  XV.]  MICHIGAN.  £Qj 

almost  every  variety  is  found  in  the  greatest  profusion;  the 
oak,  beech,  walnut,  (hickory)  ash,  maple,  elm,  pine,  syca- 
more, lurch,  and  many  other  sorts  are  of  peculiar  excellence, 
ami  of  capital  dimensions.  Tire  climate  is  so  peculiarly  sa- 
lubrious, that  epidemic  diseases,  either  amongst  men  or  cat- 
lie,  are  almost  unknown  ;  its  influence  upon  the  fertility  of 
ttie  ^oil  is  jnore  generally  perceptible  Shan  it  is  in  Lower 
Canada,  and  supposed  to  be  congenial  to  vegetation  in  a 
much  superior  degree.  The  winters  are  shorter,  and  not. 
always  marked  with  such  rigor  as  in  the  latter  ;  the  dura- 
tion of  the  frost  is  alw  ays  accompanied  w  ith  a  fine  clear  sky 
and  a  dry  atmosphere  ;  the  spring  opens,  and  the  resump- 
tion of  agricultural  labor  takes  place  from  six  weeks  to  two 
months  earlier  than  what  it  does  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Quebec;  the  summer  heats  rarely  prevail  to  excess,  and  the 
autumns  are  usually  very  friendly  to  the  harvests,  and  favor- 
able for  securing  all  the  late  crops.  In  fact,  upon  so  good  a 
soil,  and  under  such  a  climate,  industry  and  an  increase  of 
population  are  only  wanting  to  render  this  colony  flourishing 
and  happy." 

[Bouchettcs  Remarks  upon  Upper  Canada,  p.  593. 

The  valley  in  which  flow  the  river  Thames  and  Chens  I 
Ecarte,  in  Canada,  occupies  the  same  relative  part  of  the 
peninsula,  in  w  hich  it  exists,  as  does  the  table  land  of  that 
of  Michigan,  giving  great  advantage  to  the  former.  In 
point  of  soil  and  climate  no  particular  difference  can  be  per- 
ceived between  the  opposing  banks  of  the  straits  of  Erie  and 
St.  Clair.  All  the  Canadian,  and  most  of  the  Michigan  pe- 
ninsula, are  south  ol  the  forty-fifth  degree  of  north  latitude  ; 
considerable  difference  in  the  seasons  exists  between  the 
northern  and  southern  parts  ;  spring  is  much  earlier,  and 
autumn  more  protracted  at  Detroit,  Sandwich,  and  Amherst- 
burg,  than  at  York  and  Fort  Gratiot. 

Taken  as  an  entire  whole,  I  very  much  doubt  if  any  part 
of  the  earth  does  greatly  exceed  the  St.  Lawrence  valley, 
in  the  natural  benefits  which,  judiciously  cultivated,  secures 

F2 


:ZOG  MICHIGAN.  [LKT.  XV. 

the  happiness,  comfort*  arid  indulgcfrcies  of  human  life.  The 
summei'i  arc  to  a  proverb  delightful!,  rtie  winters  are  cold, 
when  compared  with  those  of  even  our  twiddle  states,  but  a 
Canadian  w  inter  if  cold,  is  uniform  to  a  degree  inconceiva- 
ble, to  most  of  those  who  are  acquainted  wiihthe  changeable 
.seasons  below  the  forfy-s( eond  degree  of  north  latitude,  in 
the  meaning  of  the  term  Canadian  winter,  I  do  not  simply 
intend  those  of  Canada  only  ;  it  applies  with  equal  force  to 
nearly,  if  not  all  the  countries  drained  by  the  St.  Law  rence? 
of  course  includes  immense  tracts  comprised  within  the  ter- 
ritorial limits  of  the  United  States. 

I  am  now  v\ion  the  eve  of  returning  to  the  city  off  New 
York,  of  retiming  my  steps,  and  of  bidding,  perhaps  silt 
eternal  adieu  in  a  few  clays  to  a  country,  where  the  pain, 
anxiety,  and  vicissitudes  of  travelling,  dkl  not  prevent  iii^ 
from  beholding  and  admiring  the  face  of  nature  in  her  rich- 
est garb.  I  have  endeavored  to  convey  to  the  friend  of  my 
heart  the  impressions  I  have  received.  Yon  know  how  far  I 
have  succeeded.  ]  now  turn  *!  a  longing  livgtrivglocIS'  to- 
wards heme,  and  the  dearest  associations  of  life,;  I  hope  in 
jess  than  one  month  to  f%ain  embrace  those  friends,  wlioity 
amid  even  the  wonders  of  Niagara,  or  the  storms  of  Erie  I 
could  not  forget.  I  hope  to  fetivc  this  city  to-morrow,  in  t\w 
mean  time? 

Adkm, 


LET.  XVI. 


BUFFALO. 


'207 


LETTER  XVI. 

Ikifj'ido,  August  31,  IS  18. 

Dear  Sir, 

As  I  informed  ytiit  in  my  last,  I  left  Detroit  on  the  23d 
inst.  and  have  arrived  here  yesterday.  I  took  my  passage 
in  a  lake  schooner.  The  steam-boat  Walk-5n-thc-water  was 
impatiently  expected  at  Detroit,  but  did  not  arrive  until  after 
I  left  that  city  ;  I  did  not  see  lief,  but  learned  at  the' town  of 
Eric  that  she  was  gone  up  and  performed  well,  though  draw- 
ing rather  too  much  water  to  suit  entirely  the  navigation  of 
lake  Erie.  She  stranded  in  about  seven  feet  w  ater  on  Erie 
bar.  A  more  fatal  fault  in  the  eons! ruction  of  any  vessel 
to  be  used  on  lake  Erie  could  not  be  easily  committed,  as 
that  of  too  great  draught  of  water.  The  harbors  arc  few, 
narrow,  and  difficult  to  enter,  and  the  intermediate  shores 
dangerous  in  the  extreme.  With  the  exception  of  the  Nia- 
gara river  below  Bird  island,  Put-in-bay  in  the  southern  Bass 
island,  and  Detroit  river,  there  exists  no  harbor  in  lake 
Erie  that  can  be  safely  entered  in  a  swelling;  sea,  with  a  ves- 
sel drawing  seven  feet  water.  To  the  number  of  vessels 
which  are  actively  employed,  I  am  convinced  there  are  ma- 
ny more  wrecked  on  lake  Erie,  than  on  the  coast  of  the 
United  States,  dangerous  as  is  some  parts  of  that  coast. 
Dunkirk  is  an  open  harbor,  but  for  suitable  vessels  can  be, 
except  Put-in-bay  and  Detroit  river,  most  easily  entered  of 
any  in  the  lake  ;  and  next  to  Dunkirk  in  facility  of  entrance, 
are  Maumcc  and  Sandusky,  The  bays  are  indeed  generally 
more  easy  of  approach  than  are  the  rivers. 

I  was  much  pleased  to  find  that  the  schooner  in  which  I 
performed  my  passage,  was  to  take  Maumee  bay  in  its 
course,  as  that  and  Erie  were  the  only  places  of  particular 
importance,  along  the  United  States  shore  of  lake  Erie, 
which  I  had  not  visited  going  up. 


ISlTi'JLjLtf. 


[jLKT..  XX3, 


Our  vessel  fell  down  Detroit  river  with  a  fine  light  breeze 
which  died  si  way  in  I  he  evening  and  left  us  lying  quiet  most 
part  of  the  night ;  hut  on  the  morning  of  the  2ilh  a  light 
KT.  "W.  wind  sprung  up,  which  increasing  with  the  rise  of  th$s 
sun,  carried  us  finely  along.  1  had  a  view*  though  at  a  dis- 
tance, of  the  mouth  of  (he  rivers  Huron  and  liaisin,  the 
houses  of  the  inhabitants  standing  like  white  spots  upon  the 
disk  of  the  horizon.  Leaving  the  western  Sister  a  small 
distance  to  the  east,  ahout  b  o'clock  P.  M.  our  little  bark 
was  safely  at  anchor  in  Maumee  hay. 

The  whole  coast  from  Ainherstbut  g  to  Maumee  is  an  Tin- 
deviating  flat.  Approaching  Maumee  bay,  I  sought  on  all 
sides  for  some  eminence,  or  some  distant  range  of  hills,  Uy 
break  the  monotony  of  the  perspective,  none  such  appeared  ; 
one  dead  uniformity,,  one  narrow  line  of  woods,  or  the  endless 
expanse  of  water  marked  the  horizon.  Maumee  bay  is 
formed  with  some  resemblance  to  that  of  Sandusky,  though 
the  former  is  neither  so  wide  or  long  as  the  latter.  The 
Maumee  river  after  tumbling  over  a  ledge  of  l  ocks  near  Fort 
Meigs,  gains  the  level  of  the  great  alluvial  plain,  noticed  m 
my  last,  over  which  it  meanders  a  few  miles,  expands  to  two 
or  three  miles  wide,  and  opens  into  the  extreme  south-west 
angle  of  lake  Erie.  An  island  in  the  form  of  a  crescent, 
about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  long,  lies  very  nearly  midway 
between  the  two  exterior  capes  of  ihe  bay,  of  course  (wo 
channels  lead  into  this  harbor.  Behind  the  crescent  island, 
vessels  And  safe  shelter  and  excellent  anchorage.  I  had  nm 
means  to  measure  the  exact-distance  from  the  island  to  the 
opposing  capes,  but  would  judge  about  three  miles,  and  very 
nearly  a  similar  distance  to  a  part  of  the  shore  to  the  cast  of 
the  mouth  of  Maumee  river.  Like  most  of  the  harbors  of 
Erie,  Maumee  has  seven  feet  water  on  the  bars  east  and  west, 
of  the  crescent  island.  Our  vessel  passed  into  the  bay  the 
west  channel,  close  upon  the  point  of  the  island,  and  anchor* 
ed  in  the  bay  formed  by  its  curve. 


I  ET.  XVI .] 


MAi'MEE. 


I  landed  upon  tlie  crescent,  and  found  U  a  beautiful  sand 
bar,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide  in  its  broadest 
part,  and  covered  with  dwarf  bushes  of  different  kinds,, 
Near  the  middle,  and  consequently  widest  pat?!,  the  two  sides 
of  ihe  island  are  higher  than  the  center,  leaving  the  latter*  a 
pond  of  water,  in  which  are  growing  rushes,  and  other 
aquatic  plants.  Many  years  past  1  witnessed  the  gam© 
feature  in  the  structure  of  the  islands  between  New- Or- 
leans and  Mobile  bay.  1  have  in  fact  found  an  astonishing 
resemblance  between  the  appearance  of  much  of  the  coasl 
of  the  Mexican  gulf,  and  the  shores  of  Erie,  from  Cleveland 
to  Detroit.  Crescent  island  no  doubt,  like  the  points  which 
enclose  Sandusky  bay,  has  been  formed  by  the  meeting  of 
two  currents  ;  it  is  now  an  admirable  natural  mole  to  se- 
cure the  mouth  of  Maumee,  and  forms  for  the  depth  of  wa- 
ter, one  of  the  best  harbors  in  this  lake  of  storms. 

As  I  did  not  attempt  Ho  penetrate  the  country,  I  remained 
upon  the  island  and  in  the  ship,  whilst  our  captain  went  up 
the  Maumee  mer  to  transact  his  affairs,  and  on  his  return 
left  the  bay  on  the  2(Jth.    We  sailed  nearly  east,  having  the 
coast  of  Maumee  to  Sandusky  bay  on  our  right,  and  the 
Sisters  and  Bass  islands  to  our  left  :  clearing  the  narrows 
between  the  southern  Bass  and  a  cape  of  tire  Sandusky  pe- 
ninsula, vvc  veered  to  the  south-east  between  Cunningham*  a 
island  and  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  peninsula*  and  held 
upon  that  course  until  opposite  the  mouth  of  Sandusky  hay, 
we  then  changed  to  a  little  north  of  east,  and  having  a  fine 
steady  south-west  breeze,  we  hove  to  on  the  2ivh  nbtftit  noon, 
opposite  the  month  of  Ashtabula  river,    borne  of  our  pas- 
sengers, beside  myself,  went  on  shore  :  little  is  here  to  be 
seen.    Ashtabula  is  a  small  and  unimportant  river,  rising 
about  thirty  miles  from  the  lake,  in  the  slate  of  Ohio,  giving 
name  to  the  north  east  county  of  that  state.    Vessels  of  five 
feet  draughtj  of  water  can  enter  Ashtabula  two  or  three 
miles.    Only  a  couple  of  farm  houses  can  be  seen  at  its 
mouth,  hills  appear  rising  almost  from  the  margin  of 


21®  ERIE.  [LET.  XVI. 

lake  ;  here  indeed  is  one  of 'the  narrowest  parts  of  the  Jake 
Erie  alluvial  border.  Ashtabula  enters  (he  lake  obliquely, 
(lie  river  running  Jo  the  .north-west,  leaving  a  high  sandy 
point  projecting  between  the  river  and  lake. 

Not  liaiing  any  part  icular  object  .of  detention,  our  ves- 
sel left  Ashtabula  at  2  o'clock  P.  M.  and  being  detained  by 
a  calm,  did  not  reach  the  harbor  of  Erie  before  about  sun- 
rise on  llie  28th.  I  liastcd  on  shore,  as  I  had  long  desired 
to  see  that  place. 

The  town  of  Erie,  formerly  Presque  isle,  stands  at  42» 
7'  N.  hit.  ,3"  7!  W.  long,  from  Washington  city.  rJ'hc 
hank  upon  which  the  town  is  buiW,  rests  upon  an  immense 
schistose  mass  of  rock,  surmounted  by  a  stratum  of  clay, 
rises  in  bluff  and  broken  abruptness  to  the  height  of  SO  or 
-":(>  fefet,  from  whence  it  sj)reads  into  a  level  plain,  with  no 
great  inclination  la  any  direction.  A  small  drain  which 
traverses  the  town,  has  cut  a  deep  ravine,  which,  near  the 
bay,  exposes  the  solid  rock.  The  main  street  runs  at  nearly 
right  angles  to  the  bay  shore,  a  little  N.  E.  of  the  ravine. 
So  much  sameness  prevails  in  all  small  towns,  that  little 
"description  suffices  to  (hose  who  have  seen  but  a  few  of  such 
places.  Erie,  Hke  almost  all  other  villages,  is  composed  in 
great  part  by  one  main  street  built  along  the  principal  road  5 
Erie  has,  however,  some  cross  streets,  upon  which  are  good 
substantia!  buildings.  The  town  has  a  very  neat  appearance, 
saaiiy  of  the  houses  are  elegant,  with  trees  planted  in  front. 
I  have  seen  very  few  places  of  its  extent,  v>hich  exhibited  so 
nwuk  of  the  air  of  a  commercial  depot.  It  is  the  seat  of 
justice  for  Erie  county,  has  a  good  substantial  court-house 
and  its  attendant  a  jail,  many  good  stores  and  taverns, 
blacksmith's,  hatter's,  shoe-maker's,  and  laylor's  shops. 

Tiie  bay  or  harbor  of  Erie  is  formed  by  the  shore,  and  a 
long,  narrow,  low,  sandy  isthmus,  which  projects  from  it  two 
miies  south-west  from  where  the  village  now  stands.  To- 
wards its  termination  the  isthmus  inclines  a  little  towards  the 
main  shore,  giving  an  elliptical  form  to  the  bay.    The  bar 


IvET.  XVI. 


21 1 


runs  out  from  the  isthmus  some  distance  above  the  point,  Unit 
has  barely  7  Riet  water.  The  channel  is  VCry;tv$miin}£  until 
about  half  a  mile  below  tl^e  town,  w  here  the  water  fepens, 
to  twenty  feet  or  more.  No  winds,  except  flloisc  frfem  the 
north-east  could  afreet  ships  at  aWhbr  in  this  bay,- and  even 
from  that  quarter  the  swell  would  be  broken  oft  t he  hah 
On  all  shies  it  is  effectually  land  locked,  The  isthmus  is 
not  more  than  four  or  five  feet  above  the  watciy  is  bvergrowsi 
With  cedar  trees,  arid  cranberry  bushes. 

in  a  cove  of  the  isthmus  now  lie  the  hulks  of  Perry's 
squadron,  and  his  captured  British  ships.  The  Lawrence  an  (J 
Niagara  now  lie  very  quietly  beside  the  I) droit*  (|ueen 
Charlotte,  and  Lady  Provost.  You  are  no  doubt  acquainted 
with  the  fact,  that  the  strongest  part  of  the  squadron  was 
prepared  at  Erie,  which*  produced  this  groat  national  vic- 
tory ;  the  Law  rence  and  Niagara  were  both  built  here,  and 
were  taken  over  the  bar  by  a  curious  contrivance.  Tiro 
captain  of  the  schooner  in  which  I  cause  from  Delrdif,  was 
then  (1813)  a  shipwright,  and  assisted  to  transport  these  ves- 
sels into  the  lake,  which,  as  he  described  the  means  and  pro- 
cess to  me,  were  the  following  :  Two  large  fiat's  or  seows 
fifty  feet  long,  ten  wide,  and  eight  deep  were  prepared,  laid 
along  side  one  of  the  vessels,  filled  with  water,  and  fastened 
lo  each  other  and  to  the  vessel  by  large  beams  of  hewn  tim- 
ber run  through  the  port  holes  ;  then  the  water  pumped 
irons  the  scows,  which,  as  they  became  empty,  buoyed  up  tire 
vessel,  and  the  whole  machine  rendered  capable  of  passing 
the  bar.  By  good  fortune,  the  British  either  could  iiotfj  or 
they  i\egleeted  to  oppose  this  operation,  and  lost  the  naval 
superiority  on  lake  Erie.  The  same  fleet  which  conquered 
Barclay's  squadron,  carried  general  Harrison's  army  to  t lie 
city  of  Detroit,  produced  the  re-eonqucst  of  Michigan,  and 
the  chastisement  on  the  Thames  of  tiro  sanguinary  and  fe- 
rocious Proctor, 

A  few  hours  enabled  me  to  sec  Erie  and  its  environs,  and 
to  leave  me  at  leisure  to  desire  to  be  again  on  my  way  to- 


?4*  ALEATsi;.  [let.  XV jk 

wards  Buffalo,  winch  was  the  case,  at  alio u(  an  hour  before 
strn-set  of  the  same  day  ivc  arrived.  Nothing  worth  notiee 
intervening  until  the  morning  of  the  30th,  (Sunday)  I  gladly 
found  myself  at  Mv.  isauc  Kihhe's  tavern  in  Buffalo. 

One  of  the  fu  st  pieces  of  news  which  reached  me  on  roy 
arrival,  w  as*  that  the  table  rock  at  Niagara  had  fallen  a  day 
or  two  before.  This  was  a  projecting  shelf  of  slate  rock  on 
the  Canada  side,  where  curious  visitors  went  to  view  the 
falls.  The  certainly  of  its  stability  had  been  doubted  for 
some  lime  past,  not  without  foundation  it  appears.  Fortu- 
nately it  fell  whilst  no  persons  were  upon  it,  for  if  such  had 
been  the  ease,  some  amiable  human  beings  would  have  been 
plunged  to  swift  destruction.  I  will  be  detained  here  a  few 
days,  per  haps  three  or  four.  I  intend  to  return  by  the  Cher- 
ry Valley  route.    Yon  w  ill  hear  from  me  again  at  Albany. 

Adieu. 


LETTER  XVII. 


Jllbamj,  September  iS9  ±818. 

pE-iB  Sir, 

Aftem  a  long  journey  of  twenty-one  days,  I  arrived 
here  the  day  before  yesterday  from  Buffalo  \  I  left  that 
town  on  the  27th  uSt.  and  came  by  the  route  of  Batavia* 
Canandaigua,  Geneva,  Aufcurn,  Cazenovia,  Cherry  Valley, 
nnd  Schenectady.  Over  this  tract  as  far  as  Geneva  I  had 
been  before,  but  from  that  place  to  Schenectady,  the  inter- 


CANANDA I G  L*A  * 


215 


mediate  country  was  new  to  me,    Willi  renewed  pleasure  I 
i*e-visited  Canandaigua,  again  reviewed  (his  extraordinary 
production  of  a  few  years  past.  When  passing  that  village  an 
my  way  to  the  westward,  I  had  a  letter  from  governor  Clin- 
ton to  Mr.  Gideon  Granger,  who  was  at  that  time  absent, 
At  the  time  of  my  return  I  was  more  fortunate  ;  I  found 
Mr.  Granger,  and  received  from  that  excellent  man  a  recep- 
tion that,  to  a  stranger,  was  sincerely  gratifying.  Mr. 
Granger's  elegant  mansion  stands  upon  the  highest  part  of 
the  plain,  upon  which  .Canandaigua  is  bniit,  and  adds  con- 
siderably to  the  decoration  of  that  unequalled  village.  This 
expression  you  may  say  is  extravagant ;  it  is  not,  however,  in- 
accurate.    Viewed  in  all  respects,  I  am  persuaded  that  no 
village  in  the  United  States  can  compare  in  the  beauty,  va- 
riety, and  taste  of  its  edifices.    The  gentle  slope  cf  the 
ground  upon  which  it  is  erected,  contributes  to  give  full  effect 
to  the  perspective.    The  main  street  is  wide,  with  paved 
side  walks,  and  planted  with  trees.    Many  of  the  houses  are 
seated  at  some  considerable  distance  from  the  street,  with 
wide,  well  shaded  side  walks  in  front.    To  my  eye,  (his 
mode  of  constructing  dwellings  in  tow  ns,  villages,  and  even 
in  cities,  has  a  very  pleasing  appearance.    It  gives  an  air  of 
comfort  and  quiet — that  must  always  constitute  much  of  the 
satisfaction  we  feel,  when  viewing  the  dwellings  of  man. 
That  of  Mr.  Granger,  splendid  as  it  is,  gains  another  inter- 
est, more  gratifying  than  the  mere  admiration  of  architect- 
ural magnificence  ;  the  generous  politeness  of  its  owner*  and 
the  friendly  deportment  of  his  family.    Princely  wealth,  is 
here  combined  with  the  warmest  feelings  of  hospitality.  It 
is  such  men,  who  render  the  possession  of  the  gifts  of  for- 
tune in  their  hands  a  public  benefit. 

I  left  Geneva  on  the  afternoon  of  the  10th,  and  proceeded 
down  the  outlet  of  the  Seneca  lake.  A  water  communica- 
tion with  lake  Ontario  now  exists  by  this  route.  At  Water- 
loo, five  miles  from  Geneva,  the  Seneca  outlet  is  obstructed 
by4al!sj  or  rather  rapids,  past  which  locks  have  been  con- 


21*  CANANDAIGUA.  [l/ftT.  XVII. 

si  rue  ted.  Below  l.he  falls,  (he  Seneca  outlet  runs  north-east 
ten  nulivs,  ;wid  joins  Cayuga  ■  outlet  at  I  lie  lower  extremity  of 
Cayuga  Sake.  The  united  stream  winds  in  a  northern  direc- 
tion fiye  itlUeSj  receives  from  (he  west  the  Canandaigua  out- 
let.5^ At  the  junction  of  those  streams  it  is  intended  to  pass 
wUh  the  errand  canal.  The  country  near  the  outlet,  between 
Geneva  and  Cayuga,  is  np&  so  uniformly  level  as  i  expected 
to  tlnd  ;  there  is,  however,  no  striking  objects  of  ranch  inter- 
est.   The  road  erosscs  the  outlet  of  the  falls,  and  proceeds 

#  Facts  are  daily  transpiring  which  tend  to  exhibit  the  rapid 
improvement  of  this  part  of  the  slate  of  New-York.  The 
Canandaigua  outlet,  is  like  that  of  Seneca,  precipitated  oyer 
ledges  of  rock.  The  following  extract  is  interesting,  but  by  no 
means  sufficiently  explicit.  It  is  much  to  be  desired,  that  those 
who  write  on  statistical  subjects,  would  be  more  particular  in  de- 
scribing local  objects.  It  will  be  seen  by  referring  to  my  letter 
from  Canandaigua,  that  a  considerable  stream  is  formed  by  the 
junction  of  Mud  creek  with  the  outlet  of  Canandaigua  lake,  this 
stream  is  now  rendered  of  more  importance  by  the  removal,  or 
rather  obviating  an  obstruction  in  its  bed,  in  the  towr/ship  cf 
Galen,  Seneca  county. 

FHOM  THE  WATERLOO  GAZETTE. 

"NEW  LOCK  NAVIGATION. 

"  Mr.  Leavenworth — It  is  with  extreme  satisfaction,  thai 
through  the  medium  of  your  press,  I  can  inform  the  public,  that 
on  the  i  9 1 1 1  ult.  the  first  heavy  laden  boat  passed  the  Lock,  lately 
constructed  on  the  Clyde,  near  the  new  milling  establishment  of 
the  Messrs.  De  Zong,  at  the  village  of  Clyde,  in  the  township  of 
Galen.  This  valuable  improvement  completes  an  excellent  Dur- 
ham boat  navigation,  through  perhaps  the  most  fertile  sections  of 
Seneca  and  Ontario  counties,  for  upwards  of  forty  miles  west  from 
the  Seneca  river;  and  creates  an  eligible  scute  for  all  kinds  of 
hydraulic  operations,  at  a  point  where  it  lias  hitherto  been  con- 
sidered utterly  impracticable  to  raise  a  sufficient  head  of  water. 

M  Besides,  it  is  not  the  least  pleasing  reflection,  that  in  the 
course  of  a  very  few  years,  this  stream  may  become  a  most  im- 
portant link  in  the  chain  of  our  western  inland  state  navigation. 

u  In  justice  to  an  undertaking  of  such  magnitude  and  utility,  I 
am  proud  to  acknowledge  the  enlerprize  of  the  Messrs.  De 
Zohg,  advised  and  directed  by  the  skill  of  that  able  architect,  and 
mill-wright,  Mr.  James  Valentine.  May  success  reward  their  ef- 
forts. "A  SENECA  FARMER." 


JGET.  XVII.] 


FALL  PRE  Eg. 


(hence  east  to  Cayuga  bridge  and  Tillage.  Tim  bridge  is, 
perhaps,  (lie  longest  in  the  United  States,  situated  at  any  con- 
siderable distance  fWm  the  sen  hoard  ;  it  exceeds  a  mile  by 
a  small  fraction,  is  foi  med  of  wood,  upo:i  a  frame  res&kig 
upon  the  bottom  of  (he  lake.  The  outlets  of  all  (he 
chain  of  hakes,  of  which  Cayuga  is  one,  have  great  sameness. 
Cayuga  is  (he  longest,  and  no  doubt  contains -more  water 
than  any  of  the  others  5  Seneca  approaches  nearest  to  it  in 
magnitude. 

Fail  creek  rises  in  the  township  of  Homer,  in  Courdant! 
county,  flows  souih  into  Virgil,  turns  (o  (fewest  and  efrterS 
Dryden,  in  Tompkins  county,  receives  a  large  branch  from 
Locke,  in  Cayuga,  then  assumes  a  south-west  course  to 
Ithaca,  in  Uiysses,  where  it  receives  a  number  of  ether 
streams,  and  turning  abruptly  lo  the  north,  suddenly  ex- 
pands into  Cayuga  lake.  The  sources  of  the  Fall  creek  are. 
very  considerably  higher  than  the  lake  into  which  their  wa- 
ters are  discharged  j*  this  is  the  ease  also,  w  ith  all  the  tribu- 

*  I  have  inserted  the  following  extract,  as  it  illustrates  the 
structure  of  the  country,  and  opens  to  the  curious  traveller  a 
source  of  instruction  and  amusement.  The  scenery  of  our 
country  has  been  too  much  neglected.  Many  very  interesting 
objects  in  the  best  settled  parts  of  the  United  States,  are  scarce- 
ly known  beyond  the  neighbourhood  where  they  exist. 

"  Ithaca,  (M  Y.)  June  10. 
<l  OUR  CATARACT. 
u  The  numerous  and  magnificent  cataracts  in  our  country, 
have  been  themes  of  wonder  and  delight,  and  are  considered  as 
a  peculiar  feature  in  the  physiology  of  the  western  part  of  this 
state.  Niagara  has  fang  been  viewed  as  the  greatest  natural 
wonder  of  the  world — and  for  sublimity  and  grandeur  is  doubt- 
less unrivalled. 

"  The  falls  of  the  Genesee,  the  Cohoes,  the  current  on  the 
Black  river,  have  all  been  noticed  by  the  traveller  and  journalist. 
Bijt  the  falls  near  this  village,  which  next  to  the  Niagara,  do  not 
yield  in  point  of  sublimity,  beauty i  and  extent,  to  any  in  the 
state,  are  scarcely  known  out  of  their  vicinity.  Fall  creek,  on 
which  our  falls  are  situated,  rises  in  the  north  east  corner  of  th  is 
county,  and,  after  a  course  of  twenty  miles,  empties  into  the  head 


M(i  CAYUGA.  [let.  xvir. 

tary  waters  of  the  other  hikes  contiguous  to  Cayuga.  The 
relative  size  of  Seneca  ami  Cayuga  lakes  is  not  materially 
different,  the  former  is  thirty-three  and  a  half  miles  Jong, 
from  Salubria  to  Geneva,  the  flatter  thirty-five  and  a  half, 
from  the  mouth  of  Fall  creek  to  that  of  Seneca  outlet  ;  the 
widest  part  of  eaeh  of  these  lakes  is  opposite  1  'omulus,  in 
Seneca  county,  and  is  nearly  equal,  three  miles.  Both 
lakes  diminish  very  gradually  towards  their  respective  ex- 
tremities. The  advantage  of  these  lakes  to  the  agriculture 
and  commerce  of  the  country  in  which  they  are  situated  is 
incalculable  J  and  when  their  outlets  are  improved  in  such 


of  Cayuga  lake.  When  it  arrives  within  three  miles  of  the  Cay- 
uga lake,  the  chain  of  falls  commences,  and  continues  with  lit- 
tle interruption,  about  one  mile  and  a  half,  when  the  water  is  pre- 
cipitated over  the  last  and  grandest  fall,  to  a  level  with  the  lake. 
The  whole  descent  of  water  in  this  distance,  has  been  estimated 
at  three,  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  view  of  the  precipice  from 
the  bridge  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  is  the  most  grand  and  pictu- 
resque I  ever  beheld.  The  water  failing  nearly  perpendicular, 
from  the  height  of  about  ninety  feet — the  steep  and  craggy  banks 
towering  to  an  ahnost  equal  height  above,  and  crowned  with 
evergreens,  give  a  wild  and  romantic  effect  to  the  scenery,  une- 
qualled by  any  thing  that  can  be  imagined.  After  clambering 
up  the  rocky  banks,  another  fall  presents  itself  to  view,  of  about 
half  the  height — and  ten  or  fifteen  rods  above  this,  the  stream 
pitches  about  forty  feet,  presenting  the  form  of  a  half  circle,  in 
its  descent  over  the  broken  and  craggy  rocks,  tumbling  and  foam- 
ing with  inconceivable  velocity. " 

"  Ithaca,  Sept.  30. 
a  Census  of  Ithxtca.—X  friend  has  favored  us  with  a  census  of 
this  vilage  taken  during  the  past  week.  By  this  it  appears,  that 
the  village  contains  a  population  of  61 1  persons,  of  which  313 
are  males,  and  298  females — 186  are  under  the  age  often  years  ; 
143  between  ten  and  twenty;  269  between  20  and  45  ;  and  thir- 
teen only  over  forty-five.  The  buildings  are  226  in  number,  com- 
prising a  church  and  court-house,  77  dwelling-houses,  4  inns,  19 
stores,  (2  vacant)  7  groceries,  28  mechanic's  shops,  8  offices— 
and  out-houses  to  complete  the  est i mate. " 

This  is  the  clearest  and  most  satisfactory,  of  all  the  recent 
enumerations  of  the  population  of  the  villages  in  west  New- 
York,  that  I  have  been  able  to  procure. 


1ST.  XVI I. J  SENECA  AND  OSWEGO  RIVERS. 


21T 


a  manner  as  to  admit  an  uninterrupted  communication  with 
Seneea  river,  and  ultimately  with  the  grand  canal,  the  whole 
will  present  a  picture  of  convenience  of  intercourse,  that 
may  challenge  an  equal  in  any  part  of  this  earth,  so  far  re- 
moved from  a  sea  coast.  And  as  if  nature  intended  to  lav 
ish  (he  richest  and  most  essential  of  her  gifts  upon  this  fa- 
vored region,  salt  and  gypsum  abound.  It  would  in  fact  be 
a  tedious  and  useless  task,  to  enumerate  a  small  part  of  the 
various  advantages  possessed  by  the  inhabitants  of  this  sin- 
gular country.  I  must  draw  your  attention  to  some  facts, 
respecting  the  geology  of  the  region  watered  by  the  Seneca 
and  Oswego  rivers.  The  peculiar  features  of  the  former 
stream,  will  best  appear  from  inspection  upon  a  good  map. 
You  will  perceive  that  it  is  formed  in  most  part  by  the  out- 
lets which  we  have  been  noticing,  and  that  its  general  course 
is  from  west  to  east,  at  right  angles  to  these  outlets  and  their 
parent  lakes.  The  lakes  themselves  occupy  the  base  of  very 
deep  v&liies.  On  this  latter  circumstance  I  had,  until  this 
period,  very  erroneous  opinions.  I  had  conceived  that 
i he  spaces  between  the  lakes  were  plains,  or  at  least  very 
little  elevated  above  the  surface  of  the  water  in  the  lakes; 
1  now  find  that  so  far  from  being  plains,  those  intervals  are 
elevated  to  an  astonishing  height,  from  which  the  streams 
rush  with  an  impetuosity  in  proportion  to  their  rapid  de- 
scent. 

Independent  of  the  long  ridges  which  rise  between  the 
lakes,  another  of  more  elevation  winds  between  the  waters 
of  Susquehanna  river,  and  the  streams  which  flow  northward 
towards  lake  Ontario.  In  reality  the  latter  ridge  is  the 
spine  of  this  country,  from  which  the  former  diverge  like  the 
ribs  of  an  animals.  The  descent  from  the  parent  ridge  is 
very  gradual  to  the  southward,  but  to  the  northward  is 
abrupt.*  How  far  the  peculiar  features  of  the  intermediate 
country  will  contribute  to  facilitate  or  impede  the  intended 

*  ^ee  page  136,  note  upon  Internal  Improvements. 

Q 


218 


AUBURN. 


[LET.  XVII,. 


water  communication  between  Susquehanna  river  and  Sene- 
ca  lake,  1  am  not  prepared  to  decide. 

I  stopped  on  the  morning  of  the  11th  at  Auburn.  This 
village  has  for  many  reasons  become  an  object  of  considera- 
ble attention.  It  stands  upon  the  outlet  of  Owasco  luke,  in 
the  township  of  Aurelius  in  Seneca  county,  upon  a  bottom 
or  level  piece  of  ground.  The  village  of  Auburn  is  more 
recent  than  cither  Geneva  or  Canandaigua,  and  in  point  of 
population,  1  would  suppose  exceeds  the  former  place.* 
The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Auburn  seems  to  be  well  cul- 
tivated. The  houses  in  the  village  are  many  of  them  well, 
and  some  expensively  built  ;  many  good  taverns  and  stores, 
are  interspersed  amongst  the  other  buildings. 

The  circumstance  which  contributes  most  to  render  Au- 
burn an  object  of  attention,  is  that  of  its  being  the  site  of 
the  second  penitentiary  erected  within  the  state  of  New- 

u  Jahiirn,  October  7. 

*  u  The  village  of  Auburn  contains  2047  souls — 64  i  males,  and 
423  females — 466  males,  and  443  females,  under  the  age  of  eight- 
een— free  blacks,  35  males,  and  29  females — slaves  8  males,  and 
2  females.  Whole  number  of  families  294.  One  Presbyterian 
church,  one  Episcopal  church,  and  a  house  of  public  worship  for 
the  Methodists,  a  court-house,  a  county  clerk's  office,  and  state 
prison.  211  dwelling-houses,  12  offices  23  stores,  2  market- 
houses,  16  groceries,  7\  mechanic's  shops,  10  mills,  6  stills,  and 
164  qut-houses,  making  an  aggregate  of  525  buildings* 

"  Among  the  130  labourers  on  the  state  prison,  75  are  suppos- 
ed to  be  transient  residents.* 

il  It  is  worthy  of  remark^  that  among  a  population  of  2047, 
two  persons  only  were  confined  to  their  beds. 

"  This  village  contained,  in  April,  1817,  a  population  of  1506, 
increase  in  17  months,  541." 

The  foregoing  census  is  anolher  instance  of  the  want  of  pre- 
cision in  the  most  necessary  details.  I  cannot  avoid  expressing 
a  hope,  that  as  public  attention  seems  now  turned  upon  such  sub- 
jects, that  more  perspicuity  will  be  used  than  is  now  frequently 
the  case ;  the  true  benefits  of  such  publications  must  be  lost,  in 
proportion  as  the  subject-  matter  is  unconnected,  or  inconclusive. 

*  We  presume  it  will  be  understood,  that  the  state  prisoners  arc  not  number 
ff,  in  our  census, 


XVII.] 


-SfiESEATEfcB'S. 


219 


York.  I  went,  together  with  some  oilier  travellers,  to  see 
* his  house  of  punishment,  and  (bund  it  a  large  oblong  build- 
ing, enclosed  within  a  strong  stone  wall.  We  were  conduct- 
ed over  the  building  by  the  keeper.  Every  necessary  atten- 
tion appears  to  be  paid  to  the  safeguard  and  health  of  the 
convicts.  I  have  always  considered  that  the  best  lessons 
that  the  United  States  ever  gave  to  the  world,  was  upon  the 
subject  of  crimes  and  punishments. 

Between  Auburn  and  the  outlet  of  Skeneateles  lake,  the 
country  continued  to  present  no  very  striking  changes  of 
scenery,  from  that  between  Geneva  and  Auburn.  At  the 
village  of  Skeneateles,  the  outlet  leaves  the  lake,  and  con- 
tinues to  flow  northward  about  fifteen  miles*  then  falls  into 
Seneca  river*  After  crossing  the  outlet  I  turned  southward 
&p  the  iake,  The  Skeneateles  is  in  form  similar  to  those  of 
Seneca  and  Cayuga,  but  of  much  less  extent  than  either  of 
Ihe  latter,  being  fifteen  miles  in  length,  with  a  medial  width 
of  less  than  one  mile* 

The  space  between  Gwaseo  and  Skeneateles  rises  rapidly 
from  each  lake,  to  a  ridge  of  at  least  four  hundred  feet  high* 
mostly  covered  with  an  enormous  forest ;  some  farms  are 
seen,  but  the  greatest  part  of  the  surface  is  yet  in  woods* 
East  ©f  the  Skeneateles  the  country  is  more  improved,  but 
also  presents  an  immense  and  very  much  inclined  plane* 
rising  gradually  from  the  water.  The  road  winds  along 
Ihis  slope,  about  half  way  from  the  lake  to  the  apex  of  the 
hills  |  the  farms  have  a  curious  aspect  when  viewed  either 
from  above  or  below  the  road.  The  soil  is  good,  but  very 
stony,  and  in  many  places  must  he  inconvenient  to  cultivate* 
from  the  very  great  steepness  of  its  surface.  The  timber  is 
composed  of  hemlock,  sugar  tree,  elm,  several  species  of 
hickory,  and  oak.  The  whole  country  is  well  supplied  with 
excellent  spring  water. 

The  lower  half  of  Skeneateles  lake  lies  in  Onondaga 
county,  and  the  higher  moity  forms  the  demarcation  he* 


220 


CAZENOVIA. 


[let.  xvir 


twccn  the  township  of  Scmpronious,  in  Seneca,  and  Spaf- 
ford,  in  Onondago  county. 

I  remained  the  night  of  the  11th  near  the  head  of  Skene 
atelcs,  in  Spaftbrd,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  12th  set  out, 
crossing  tire  (country  towards  Otisco  Jake.  No  roads  are 
yet  formed  in  this  part  of  Onondago  except  the  common 
country  roads.  I  traversed  the  ridge  between  the  lakes* 
and  found  it  elevated  to  an  astonishing  height,  when 
contrasted  with  its  representation  upon  a  map.  Farms  che- 
quer the  hill  sides  in  their  steepest  parts,  and  spread  along 
the  bottoms,  in  every  direction.  The  settlements  are  less 
frequent,  and  have  the  appearance  of  being  much  more  re- 
cently established,  than  those  to  the  northward  near  the 
great  western  turnpike.  After  clambering  the  Skeneateles 
and  another  very  high  and  steep  ridge,  I  found  myself  upon 
the  Skeneateles  turnpike  road  about  two  miles  above  Otisco 
lake.  I  found  the  turnpike  leading  eastward  through  the 
south  parts  of  Onondago  and  Madison  counties.  The  coun- 
try improved  at  every  step,  though  continuing  hilly  and  bro- 
ken. The  weather  was  dark  and  gloomy.  I  felt  weary, 
and  for  the  first  time  I  was  seriously  indisposed  since  my 
leaving  New-York.  I  got  to  my  lodgings,  near  the  church 
of  Cazenovia  a  little  before  sun-set,  having  travelled  on  foot 
over  a  very  rough  country  more  than  thirty  miles. 

Sept.  13th.  I  found  myself  considerably  refreshed  and 
renewed  my  journey  eastward.  The  road  passes  along  the 
dividing  ridge  between  the  head  waters  of  the  Chenango 
branch  of  Susquehanna,  and  the  Chittinengo  river  flowing 
north  into  the  Oneida  lake. 

At  Cazenovia  church,*  the  character  of  the  country  is  es^ 

*  Strangers  from  the  southern  and  western  states  are  not  un- 
frequently  embarrassed  when  travelling  in  the  state  of  New- 
York,  and  to  the  eastward  of  that  state,  by  the  common  custom 
of  naming  the  villages  from  the  townships  in  which  they  are 
situated.  This  is  the  case  with  Cazenovia.  I  did  not  personal- 
ly visit  the  village  of  that  name,  but  passed  through  the  southern 
part  of  the  township.    The  custom  of  publishing  the  progressive 


LET.  XVII.]  HAMILTON— -BR00KFIE1D.  221 

scntially  different  from  that  westward  through  Which  I  hail 
been  (ravelling  (he  three  preceding  days.  The  regular  and 
almost  artificial  aspect  of  (he  hills  and  lakes  from  Geneva 
to  Otiscolake,  gradually  yielded  loa  more  irregular  though 
still  broken  country.  With  the  exception  of  some  vallies, 
which  I  crossed  at  nearly  right  angles,  I  found  no  level 
country  between  Skeneateles  and  this  city.  The  many  flats, 
lie  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Chenango,  but  are  mere  bot- 
toms between  surrounding  Iiiits  ;#  the  soil  every  where  Ter* 
tile,  an *  in  many  places  well  improved. 

Advancing  eastward  through  Hamilton  and  Brookfield, 
forming  the  south-east  angle  of  Madison  county,  the  face  of 
the  country  becomes  extremely  hilly,  rocky  and  generally  of 
recent  settlement.  I  had  travelled  through  no  part  of  the 
state  of  New-York,,  where  the  hand  of  man  had  made  so 
little  change  in  the  primitive  rudeness  of  nature.  The  road 
in  this  quarter  crosses  the  sources  of  Chenango  and  Una- 
dilla  rivers;  the  latter  forming  the  boundary  between  the 
southeastern  part  of  Madison  and  the  northwestern  of  Otsc~ 

population  of  our  new  settlements  is  laudable,  but  editors  of 
public  prints  ought  to  be  careful  to  procure  correct  data  on  that 
subject.  I  have  in  this  treatise  appended  as  notes,  as  many  of 
these  enumerations  as  have  met  my  eye  relating  to  places  upon, 
or  near  the  line  of  my  route. 

"  Cazenovia. — The  village  of  Cazenovia,  in  Madison  county, 
New-York,  was  first  settled  in  May  1793. — In  1806,  it  had  21*2 
inhabitants— in  18  10,  440  inhabitants— -and  it  now  contains 
709  souls. — It  has  three  churches,  several  manufactories,  and 
all  the  appendages  of  a  thriving  village." 

*  While  the  above  notes  were  in  the  hands  of  my  printer,  I  was 
told  that  a  valley  existed,  out  of  which  the  waters  of  the  Che- 
nango flowed  south,  and  those  of  Oneida  north,  without  any  ele- 
vated intervening  ground  between  the  sources  of  these  streams, 
Jf  this  information  is  correct,  it  is  of  greyt  importance,  and  may 
ere  long  lead  to  the  formation  of  another  link  in  our  interior 
communication.  A  minute  and  skillful  examination  of  the  in- 
terlocutory branches  of  other  streams,  with  those  of  the  Susque- 
hanna, is  really  an  object  of  great  import  in  the  adjustment  of 
some  of  the  most  serious  questions  in  our  internal  policy, 


CHEKltr  *V  ALLEY* 


[LET.  XVII, 


go  eouuty.  The  road  keeping  so  near  a  dividing  ridge,  pass- 
es, I  ani  inclined  to  believe,  the  least  attractive  parts  of  Ot- 
sego, as  from  every  information  I  received,  the  average  im- 
provement in  this  county  would  very  much  exceed  what 
A\ould  result  from  an  estimate  founded  upon  the  part  over 
which  I -travelled. 

Rising  one  hill  af(er  another,  I  found  myself  at  about  four 
miles  west  of  Cherry  Valley,  where  I  spent  the  night,  ami 
about  two  hours  before  day  on  the  14th,  resumed  my  journey. 
During  my  whole  tour,  this  was  the  only  instance  &  which 
I  travelled  in  the  night  ;  the  moon  shone  very  clear,  and  ei- 
ther from  the  elevation  of  the  country  or  the  advance  of  the 
season,  the  air  was  keen  $nd  sharp,  with  a  white  frost,  I 
walked  on  and  passed  Cherry  Valley  before  day.  I  regretted 
the  circumstance,  but  my  mind  became  daily  more  anxious 
to  regain  my  home.    I  could  by  the  clear  moonlight  perceive 
the  general  aspect  of  the  place.    The  village  is  seated  be- 
tween the  base  of  a  high  and  very  steep  hill,  and  a  smalt 
creek,  the  source  of  a  considerable  stream,  from  the  unw& 
of  which,  that  of  the  village  is  derived.    The. hill,  ©r  rasher 
mountain,  rises  east  of  the  village,  and  m  a  part  of  the  same 
chaiifi  which  forms  the  Little  Falls  in  the  Molmvk  river.  Seer& 
by  day  light,  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  the  vicinity  of  Cherry 
Valley  wmild  have  a  wild  and  romantic  appearance  $  to  my 
eye  it  presented  that  contrast  every  where  found  in  New- 
York,  in  the  towns  and  villages  of  ancient  date the  low 
Dutch  built  mansion  and  the  stately  modern  edifice;  913d  al- 
so like  almost  all  towns  laid  out  by  the  original  settlers  of 
this  state,  the  streets  follow  the  inflections  of  the  roads.  In 
opposition  to  common  opinion,  1  have  been  led  to  consider* 
the  right  angled  mode  oflayingout  cities  as  inconvenient  ami 
unnatural,  where  neither  the  varieties  of  the  ground  or  fa- 
cility of  intercourse  with  contiguous  places  are  consulted. 

The  road  towards  Albany  leaves  Cherry  Valley,  winding 
up  the  steep  ascent  of  the  mountain,  for  two  miles  before  it 
attains  the  summit  level.   Dav  light  began  to  appear  over  ih% 


I*ET.  XVII.] 


HILLS  AND  M01NTA1N>, 


223 


verge  of  the  highest  peaks,  before  I  gained  the  extreme 
height,  anil  before  reaching  the  opposite  slope,  the  sua  had 
risen  over  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk.  The  morning  was 
remarkably  clear,  and  gave  to  the  perspective  all  its  extent, 
The  richly  cultivated  vale  lay  before  me,  scattered  peaks  of 
the  Cherry  valley  mountain  extended  along  my  right,  termi- 
nated by  the  bjue  apex  of  the  Catsbergs,  on  my  left  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  arose  the  broken  fragments  of  the  chain 
through  which  the  Mohawk  breaks  at  the  Little  Falls.  Far 
distant  upon  the  disk  of  the  horizon,  arose  the  elevated  hills 
of  Montgomery  county,  between  the  Mohawk  and  Sacondago 
rivers.  To  the  eastward  towards  Schenectady,  was  spread 
an  endless  variety  of  hill  and  dale;  fields,  meadows,  orchards, 
farm-houses,  and  copses  of  wood,  varied  to  almost  infinity, 
by  the  charming  irregularity  of  its  features,  I  gazed  upon 
this  truly  expansive  prospect,  and  pronounced  it  by  far  the 
finest  landscape  I  had  ever  seen.  There  was  an  extent  and 
striking  contrast  of  parts,  that  rendered  the  whole  a  picture 
that  must  attract  the  entire  attention  of  every  beholder.  The 
southern  extremity  of  Herkimer  and  the  southwest  angle  of 
Montgomery  are  the  points  where  the  waters  of  the  Susque- 
hanna make  the  nearest  approach  to  those  of  the  Mohawk* 
In  the  townships  of  Litchfield  and  Columbia,  in  the  south- 
west angle  of  Herkimer,  the  sources  of  the  TJnadilla  river- 
rise  within  eight  miles  of  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk  at  the 
German  Flats.  In  the  townships  of  Columbia  and  Warren* 
are  also  the  extreme  north  sources  of  the  main  branch  of 
the  Susquehanna  river,  which  rise  within  less  than  ten  miles 
of  the  Mohawk  at  the  Little  Falls.  The  chain  of  mountains 
w  hich  passes  Cherry  Valley,  and  as  I  have  observed  forms  She 
Little  Falls,  leaves  Otsego  county  in  the  township  of  Spring- 
field, and  enters  Herkimer  county  dividing  the  township  of 
"Warren  from  that  of  Danube. 

I  have  observed  in  my  Emigrant's  Guide,  page  190,  that 
hills  and  mountains  are  not  only  specifically  but  genetically 
distinct.   It  is  commonly  considered  that  mountains  and  hills 


HILLS  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


[LET.  Xfil* 


are  mere  relative  terms,  but  the  philosophy  of  such  »n  opin- 
ion is  not  founded  in  fact.  In  the  United  Slates  instances 
are  numerous  where  the  chains  of  hills  and  mountains  pas& 
each  other  at  a  great  diversify  of  inclination.  1  have  al- 
ready pointed  out  the  remarkable  chain  of  liills  which  sepa- 
rate the  waters  of  St.  Lawrence  from  those  of  the  Ohio  val- 
ley. You  will  perceive,  that  the  same  ridge  which  winds 
along  the  south  shore  of  lake  Erie,  continues  through  the 
state  of  New-York,  by  an  inflected  line.  This  ridge  leaves 
the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  in  the  north-east  part  of  Erie 
county,  and  following  nearly  the  general  course  of  lake  Erie* 
and  within  five  or  six  miles  of  the  shore  of  that  lake,  wind& 
through  Chatauque  into  Cattaraugus  county  ;  then  tarns 
south-east  about  twenty  miles,  reaches  w  ithin  ten  miles  of  the 
bank  of  Allegany  river,  at  the  month  of  Little  Valley  creek, 
Turning  to  the  north-east,  through  the  residue  of  Cattarau- 
gus, the  ridge  enters  Allegany  county  ;  upon  the  west  border 
of  the  latter  county  it  assumes  a  south-east  direction,  be- 
tween the  waters  of  the  Genesee  and  Allegany  rivers,  enters 
Pennsylvania  in  Potter  county,  through  which  it  curves,  and 
again  enters  the  state  of  New-York,  in  the  south-west  angle 
of  Steuben  county.  It  then  pursues  a  north-west  course^ 
again  enters  Allegany  county,  turning  by  an  elliptical  curvo 
returns  into  Steuben  county  near  Arkport,  and  following  a 
north-east  direction  enters  Ontario  county  in  the  township  of 
Springwater,  but  curves  rapidly  again  into  Steuben  county*, 
and  winding  through  the  latter  to  the  south-east,  enters  Tioga 
county  discharging  to  the  south-west  the  creeks  of  the  Conhoc- 
ton  branch  of  the  Susquehanna,  and  to  the  north-east  streams 
flowing  into  Canandaigua,  Crooked,  and  Seneca  lakes.  Wind- 
ing along  the  northern  border  of  Tioga  county,  through  the 
townships  of  Catherine,  Cayuta,  Danby,  and  Caroline,  at- 
tains the  north-east  extremity  of  the  county,  and  turns  to  tlm 
north,  forming  the  east  border  of  Tompkins,  and  the  south- 
east of  Cayuga,  reaches  the  head  of  Skeneateles  lake,  inilm 


XVII.] 


HI  VERS  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


225 


north-west  angle  of  Courtland  county  ;  from  the  latter  place 
the  ridge  assumes  a  course  east-north-east  to  the  village  of 
Argos,  in  Madison  county,  where  it  attains  its  extreme  north 
point.  From  Argos  the  course  of  the  ridge  is  nearly  east-* 
to  its  intersection  with  the  prolongation  of  the  Oatsbergg, 
near  the  village  of  Cherry  Valley.  Uninterrupted  by  the 
Catsbergs  this  remarkable  ridge  continues  down  the  Mo- 
hawk river,  and  is  gradually  lost  between  Schenectady  and 
Albany.  The  Schoharie  river  is  the  only  stream  which 
actually  crosses  the  ridge  in  all  its  length. 

It  is  really  an  object  worthy  of  great  attention,  the  uni- 
form character  of  this  singular  spine  south  of  lake  Erie  $ 
where  dividing  the  Mississippi  waters  from  those  of  St, 
Lawrence  river  ;  and  where  separating  the  numerous  branch- 
es of  the  Susquehanna  from  those  of  the  Mohawk,  its  fea- 
tures have  a  Striking  similitude.  Sloping  imperceptibly  to 
the  south,  and  jailing  abruptly  to  the  north,  is  the  peculiar 
trait  in  the  natural  hktory  of  this  ridce.  which  will  have  the 
greatest  influence  in  the  operations  of  human  improvement. 
It  may  be  observed  aiso  as  not  the  least  wonderful  trait  of 
this  ridge,  that  it  forms  a  limit  between  that  part  of  the  con- 
tinent of  North  America,  remarkable  for  the  magnitude 
and  abundance  of  its  lakes,  and  that  part  as  remarkable  for 
the  almost  total  want  of  lakes. 

The  Mohawk  river  flows  along  the  eastern  part  of  the 
ridge  we  are  noticing,  at  a  medium  distance,  above  Schoha- 
rie river,  of  from  ten  to  twenty  miles.  The  natural  struc- 
ture of  the  Mohawk  is  little  less  peculiar  than  the  ridge  it- 
self*. Occupying  the  narrow  vale  of  two  exhausted  Jakes* 
this  stream  rises  in  the  secondary  region  west  of  the  granit- 
ic ridges,  which  form  the  nueleous  of  the  Allegany  moun- 
tains, with  its  sources  so  nearly  poised,  as  to  leave  the  wa- 
ters at  liberty  to  flow  either  towards  the  Hudson  or  St.  Law- 
vence.  Flowing  from  this  table  land  with  a  very  uniform 
current,  between  perfectly  alluvial  banks,  for  thirty-five 


226  RIVERS  AKD  MOUNTAINS.  [LET.  XVli*' 

miles,  (he  Mohawk  meets  its  first  considerable  obstruction, 
by  intersecting  the  Calsbergs  at  the  place  now  called  the 
Utile  Falls.  Here  the  stream  pours  over  a  ledge  of  primi- 
tive rocks,  and  enters  a  region  which,  in  soil,  timber  and 
geological  structure,  differs  very  essentially  from  the  coub- 
try  west  of  the  Calshergs ;  the  stream,  however,  again  flows 
with  a  very  equable  current  about  sixty  miles,  to  the  Co- 
hoes  Falls,  over  which  its  waters  are  literally  plunged  inte 
the  Atlantic  tides.  You  will  perceive  that  the  elevation  of 
is  lie  summit  level  of  the  Mohaw  k,  south  of  the  village  of 
Iloine,  follow  ing  the  report  of  the  canal  commissioners,  page 
89*  *s  above  tide  water  in  the  Hudson  river,  near  Troy,  with* 
in  a  small  fraction  of  419  feet.  Of  this  degression  132.85 
i >et,  including  the  Little  Falls,  are  found  between  Rome  and 
Schoharie  creek,  and  286  feet  between  the  latter  stream  and 
the  level  of  Hudson  river,  below  the  head  of  tide  water. 

The  range  of  the  Catsbergs  being  in  some  measure  an 
anomaly  in  our  geography,  has  given  rise  to.  considerable 
ainluguity  in  our  maps,  and  are  not  strictly  correct  on  any 
representation  with  winch  I  am  acquainted.  The  late  ex- 
cellent, and  much  to  be  lamented  John  IL  Eddy,  left  that 
part  of  his  map  of  the  stale  of  New-York  unfinished  at  his 
death.  I  was  employed  by  Mr.  Thomas  Eddy,  to  sketch 
these  mountains,  which  I  did,  following  the  best  information 
1  could  procure.  I  found  the  Damascus  mountain,  in  Wayne 
county,  Pennsylvania,  marked  upon  Mr.  Eddy's  map  ;  but 
10  the  east  of  the  O^checton  Falls,  in  the  Delaware,  the 
map  was  a  blank,  as  respects  the  very  distinctive  chain 
which  forms  those  falls.  1  sketched  the  mountain  ridge 
which  winds  from  the  Cochection  Fall,  through  Susquehan- 
na and  TJister,  to  the  borders  of  Greene  county,  in  the 
state  of  New-York,  and  which,  in  the  latter  county,  rises 
into  the  remarkable  Catsbcrgs,  whose  conic  summits  have 
so  fine  an  aspect,  seen  from  the  Hudson  river.  The  center 
<>f  Greene  county  is  formed  by  a  curve  of  this  chain,  out  of 
^hich  flow  the  sources  of  the  Schoharie,    Viewing  a  map 


JLKT.  XVII.]  Ill  VERS  AND  MOUNTAINS, 


of  this  part  of  the  state  of  New-York,  it  would  appear  that 
the  sources  of  the  Schoharie  ought  to  flow  into  the  Papac~ 
ton  branch  of  the  Delaware  river ;  but  after  pursuing  a> 
north-west  direction,  within  the  curve  of  the  mountains,  the 
various  branches  of  Schoharie  unite  in  the  township  of 
Windham,  and  entering  the  southern  angle  of  Schoharie 
county,  pierces  the  Catsbergs,  and  assuming  a  northerly 
course,  crosses  Schoharie  and  part  of  Montgomery  coun- 
ties, falls  into  the  Mohawk  river  opposite  Tripe's  hill.— 
The  origin  and  course  of  the    Schoharie  river,  very  re- 
markably exemplify  the   little  influence   of  the  moun- 
tains of  the  United  States    upon  the  direction   of  the 
streams.     No  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Schoharie  is  less 
than  286  feet,   and  its  sources  are  2,800  or  2000  feet 
above  tide  water  in  Hudson  river.    The  country  watered  by 
this  small  but  beautiful  river,  below  its  passage  through  the 
Catsbergs,  is  amongst  the  most  charming  regions  of  the 
United  States.    I  passed  through  the  townships  of  Caimjo-? 
harie  and  Charlestown,  in  Montgomery,  and  Buanesburg 
and  Princeton,  in  Schenectady  county,  and  found  the  country 
on  both  sides  of  the  road  well  cultivated,  and  extremely 
pleasing  to  the  eye.    If  any  part  of  this  region  deserves  4 
preference  in  soil,  variety  of  site,  and  general  improvement^ 
it  is  that  near  the  Schoharie  river. 

Entering  Schenectady  county,  the  country  insensibly  dete- 
riorates both  in  soil  and  cultivation,  and  contrary  to  hat 
might  be  expected,  the  approach  to  Albany  is  over  a  tract  of 
land,  in  great  part  in  a  state  of  nature,  covered  with  a  for- 
est of  evergreen  trees,  growing  in  a  loose,  sandy  soil.  Nor- 
man's Kill  rises  in  Schenectady  county,  and  flowing  south- 
east falls  into  the  Hudson  river  below  Albany.  The  country 
watered  by  this  creek  is  mostly  broken,  rocky,  and  along  the 
stream  often  precipitous,  giving  to  the  traveller  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  fine  region  along  the  Mohawk. 

Drenched  by  a  heavy  rain  I  arrived  in  Albany,  Tuesday, 
Sept.  15th,  131  days  from  my  departure  from  that  city,  I 


228 


ALBANY. 


[LET*  XVIi. 


have  now,  strictly  speaking,  closed  my  lour  ;  (he  remaining 
part  of  (he  distance  I  have  to  pass  over  in  order  (o  return 
home,  is  (oo  well  known  to  you  (o  render  any  tardier  ob- 
servations necessary.  Yon  will  see  me  in  New-York  in  a 
few  days.  I  expect  (o  remain  in  (his  city  (hree  or  four  days, 
in  the  mean  time 

Adjm 


ADDENDA* 


NO.  ft 

EXTRACTS  FROM  BOUCHETTE-'S  CANADA. 


u  IN  forming  the  plan  of  government  for  Canada,  the  general 
principles  of  tire  English  constitution  were  introduced,  wherever 
it  was  practicable:  in  the  Upper  Province  no  impediments  to 
this  course  of  proceeding  were  met  with;  but  in  the  Lower  one 
some  small  deviations  from  them  were  found  necessary,  in  order 
to  reconcile  it  to  the  genius  of  a  people  so  long  accustomed  to  a 
different  regime.  The  civil  department  is  administered  by  a  go- 
vernor, who  is  generally  a  military  officer  and  commander  of  the 
forces,  a  lieutenant  governor,  an  executive  council,  a  legislative 
council,  and  a  house  of  assembly,  or  the  representatives  of  the 
people.  The  governor  and  lieutenant  governor  naturally  exer- 
cise their  authority  under  the  royal  commission.  The  members  of 
the  executive  council,  amounting  to  seventeen,  derive  their  appoint- 
ment from  the  king,  and  this  body  exercises  a  direction  over  the  con- 
cerns of  the  province,  nearly  similar  to  that  of  the  pri  vy 'council 
in  the  affairs  of  England.  The  legislative  council,  by  the  act  of 
the  constitution,  consists  of  fifteen  members,  (although  at  present 
that  number  is  increased,)  atl  of  whom  are  appointed  by  man- 
damus from  the  king,  and  may  be  termed  the  second  estate  of  the 
province;  and,  with  the  third  branch  or  house  of  assembly,  forms 
the  provincial  parliament.  The  governor  is  invested  with  power 
to  prorogue,,  and  in  the  exercise  of  his  own  discretion,  to  dissolve 


U  feOtTCIIETTES  CANADA.  f  ADD  JEN  13  A  ftd.  I 

tlie  parliament ;  lo  give  the  royal  assent  or  refusal  to  bills  passed 
by  it,  or  to  reserve  them  in  case  of  doubt  or  difficulty,  until  his 
majesty's  pleasure  be  known  thereon.  Such  acts  as  receive  the 
governor's  assent  are  usually  put  in  immediate  force,  but  he  is 
enjoined  to  have  copies  of  them  transmitted  to  England,  that 
they  may  receive  the  approbation  of  the  king  in  council,  and  his 
majesty  has  the  right,  with  the  advice  of  his  council,  to  cancel 
any  act  so  passed  by  the  provincial  parliament  within  two  years 
from  the  date  of  its  arrival  in  England:  but  hitherto  its  wisdom 
has  been  so  well  directed,  in  the  arduous  task  of  legislating,  that 
there  is  no  instance  on  record,  of  this  prerogative  ever  having 
been  exercised.  The  acts  that  emanate  from  the  provincial  par- 
liament, are  all  of  a  local  nature,  such,  for  instance,  as  provid- 
ing for  the  internal  regulation  of  the  country,  through  the  vari- 
ous departments ;  for  its  defence,  as  far  as  relates  to  enrolling 
and  embodying  the  militia ;  and  imposing  taxes  for  raising  the 
necessary  supplies,  to  defray  the  expences  of  government.  But 
an}^  acts,  having  for  their  object  the  alteration,  or  repeal  of  any 
laws  existing  antecedent  to  the  constitution  granted  in  1791  ;  the 
tithes ;  grants  of  land  for  the  maintenance  of  the  Protestant 
clergy  ;  the  rights  of  presentation  to  rectories,  or  the  endowments 
of  parsonages ;  whatever  relates  to  the  exercise  of  religious 
worship,  or  disqualification  of  religious  tenets;  the  rights  of  the 
clergy;  to  changes  or  modifications  of  the  discipline  of  the 
church  of  England;  or  of  the  royal  prerogative  on  the  subject 
of  waste  crown  lands,  must,  after  having  passed  the  provincial 
parliament,  be  submitted  to  the  British  parliament,  and  receive 
the  royal  assent  before  they  can  pass  into  laws.  The  house  of 
assembly  is  composed  of  fifty-two  members,  and  is  a  model,,  on 
&  small  scale,  of  the  house  of  commons  of  the  imperial  parlia- 
ment ;  the  representatives  are  extensive  proprietors  of  land,  and 
are  elected  for  the  districts  and  counties,  by  the  votes  of  persons 
being  actual  possessors  of  landed  property,  of  at  least  forty  shil- 
lings clear  annual  value  :  for  the  city  of  Quebec  and  the  towns, 
they  arc  chosen  by  voters,  who  must  be  possessed  of  a  dwelling- 
house  and  piece  of  ground,  of  not  less  annual  value  than  five 
pounds  sterling,  or  else  have  been  domiciliated  in  the  place  for 
one  year  previous  to  the  writ  of  summons  issuing,  and  have  paid 
one  year's  rent,  not  under  ten  pounds  sterling,  for  a  house  or 


-ADDENDA  fco.  f.J 


BOUCHETTE*S  CANADA 


• ;  * 
it 


lodging.  There  exists  no  disqualification  either  for  the  electors 
or  elected  on  account  of  religious  tenets,  for,  in  this  country, 
where  toleration  reigns  in  its  plenitude,  every  one,  whatever 
may  be  his  faith,  is  eligible  to  fill  any  office  Or  employ,  provided 
the  other  qualifications  required  by  law  are  not  wanting.  The 
sittings  of  the  house  begin  in  January,  and  all  the  public  and 
private  business  is  usually  gone  through  by  the  latter  end  of 
March,  about  which  time  it  is  prorogued,  so  that  the  session  ne- 
ver exceeds  the  term  of  three  months,  between  January  and 
April.  Should  parliament  not  be  dissolved  by  the  governor,  a, 
circumstance  that,  indeed,  very  seldom  occurs,  its  duration  is  li- 
mited by  the  act  of  the  constitution  to  the  period  of  four  years, 
when  its  functi6ns  expire,  and  writs  are  immediately  issued  for 
the  election  of  another.  At  such  a  crisis  the  independence  and 
energy  of  the  various  voters,  the  professions  and  humility  of  the 
candidates,  are  as  strikingly  pourtrayed  as  in  the  more  turbulent 
contents,  that  take  place  on  similar  occasions  in  the  country. 

"  The  criminal  code  of  the  United  Kingdom  extends  to  Canada* 
and  is  carried  into  effect  without  the  slightest  variation.  For  the 
administration  of  civil  justice,  there  is  a  court  of  appeal,  in  which 
the  governor  presides,  assisted  by  the  lieutenant  governor,  not 
less  than  five  members  of  the  executive  council,  and  such  of  the 
principal  law  officers,  as  have  not  had  cognizance  of  the  previ- 
ous trial;  against  the  decisions  of  this  court,  as  a  final  resource, 
an  appeal  may  be  made  to  the  king  in  council.  A  court  of  king's 
bench,  a  court  of  common  pleas,  with  each  a  chief  justice,  and 
three  puisne  judges.  Quarter  sessions  of  the  peace  held  four 
times  a  year,  besides  a  police  and  subordinate  niagisliature  for 
determining  affairs  of  minor  importance. 

"  By  far  the  largest  portion  of  inhabitants*  are  descended  from 
French  ancestors,  the  reader  will  readily  surmise  that  the  pre- 
vailing religion  is  Roman  Catholic;  of  this  persuasion,  there  is  a 
Bishop  of  Quebec,  a  coadjutor  with  the  title  of  Bishop  of  Salde. 
nine  Vicars  General,  and  about  two  hundred  curates,  and  mis- 
sionaries spread  over  the  different  districts  of  the  province,  by 
whom  the  tenets  of  their  religion  are  inculcated  with  assiduity 

*  Only  correct  as  respects  Lower  Canada,  t-;*  fact  is  the  con- 
trary in  the  bp  per  Province. 


*V  BOUCHETTE's  CANADA.  [ADDENDA  AO.  S. 

and  devotion, W  little  tinctured  with  bigotry  or  intolerance,  un- 
happily so  frequently  characteristic  of  the  same  faith  in  the  old 
world.    Exercising  their  sacred  functions  under  the  auspices  of  a 
Protestant  government,  they  feel  the  value  of  mildness  in  their 
own  conduct,  and  strenuously  endeavor  to  repay  its  protecting 
power  by  a  zealous  performance  of  their  duties,  and  by  instilling 
into  the  minds  of  their  flock,  a  grateful  obedience  to  the  laws, 
with  a  reverence  for  the  constitution,  as  well  as  the  obligations* 
imposed  upon  them  in  their  character  of  good  citizens.  They 
are  also  chiefly  employed  in  the  important  cares  of  education,  oi 
which  they  acquit  themselves  in  a  manner  that  reflects  the  high- 
est credit  upon  their  exertions.    To  this  fact  the  seminaries  of 
Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  the  college  of  Nicolet,  bear  a  power- 
ful testimony.    In  these  establishments,  where  the  higher  and 
more  abstruse  sciences  yield  to  those  of  more  extended  and  pri- 
mary utility;  professors  are  employed  to  teach  the  various  bran- 
ches of  the  classics,  mathematics,  and  belles-lettres,  whose  learn- 
ing would  acquire  them  reputation  in  any  country.    In  commu- 
nicating their  instructions,  the  French  idiom  is  in  general  use,  but 
in  the  college  there  is  a  professor  of  the  English  tongue,  an  exam- 
ple worthy  of  being  followed  by  the  two  former,  as  this  language 
now  becomes  an  essential  part  of  youthful  studies.    The  reve- 
nues of  the  Catholic  clergy  are  derived  from  grants  of  land  made 
to  them  under  the  ancient  regime,  and  the  usual  contributions 
ordained  by  their  ecclesiastical  government,  which  are,  perhaps, 
more  cheerfully  paid  by  the  Canadians,  and  collected  in  a  man- 
ner much  freer  from  vexatious  exactions  than  in  any  country 
whatever. 

u  The  spiritual  concerns  of  the  Protestant  part  of  the  commu- 
nity arc  under  the  guidance  of  the  Lord  Bishop  of  Quebec,  nine 
rectors,  and  a  competent  number  of  other  clergymen,  who  are 
supported  by  annual  stipends  from  the  government,  by  the  ap- 
propriation of  all  granted  lands  as  provided  for  in  the  act  of  the 
constitution,  and"  the  other  sources  of  revenue  peculiar  to  the 
church  of  England.  In  a  degree  of  moderate  affluence,  exempt 
on  the  one  hand  from  inordinate  impropriation,  and  on  the  other 
from  penurious  parsimony  ;  thereby  giving  to  the  clerical  order> 
the  degree  of  consequence  in  the  superior  ranks  of  society  that  is 
due  to  its  ministry. 


NO.  I.] 


BQUCIIETTE's  CANADA,. 


V 


11  In  the  unrestrained  exercise  of  two  systems  of  divine  worship 
so  widely  differing  in  l\.e\v  tenets,  \t  is  s\  pleasing  fact,  that  the 
discipline  of  the  two  churches  never  encounters  \hc  smallest  oh 
struct*  oil  from  each  other ;  on  the  contrary,  the  greatest  goooV 
will  antl  harmony  is  observed  to  pievail,  as  well  between  the  nas- 
loss,  ias       flocks  com  milted  to  J  heir  charge. 

u  For  the  defence  of  the  two  Canadas,  a  regular  military  esta- 
blishment is  maintained  by  the  British  government,  which,  in 
time  of  peace,  may  amount  to  about  six  or  seven  thousaud  men, 
including  artillery,  engineers,  commissariat,  &c.  Out  when  we 
nve  at  war  with  the  United  States,  this  force  is  increased  as  the 
pressure  of  circumstances  demands;  ami  at  t|)|s  period,  (18  15) 
I  may  venture  to  compute  i4,  although  without  official  documents, 
lb  fix  the  the  precise  numerical  strength,  at  from  twenty-seven  to 
thirty  thousand  men  in  both  provinces.  In  aid  of  the  regular 
troops,  and  in  order  that,  under  any  exigency,  the  government 
may  be  enabled  to  bring  a  sufficient  force  jjnjo  the  field,  the  low- 
er province  is  apportioned  into  fifty-two'  divisions,  wherein  all 
males  from  fifteen  to  sixty  years  of  age,  ar$  bound  by  law  to  en- 
roll their  names  every  year,  with  the  captains  of  companies  ap* 
pointed  for  their  parish,  within  the  month  of  April.  After  the 
tmrohireni  is  completed,  they  are  mustered  four  times  in  a  year, 
either  on  Sotidays  or  holidays,  when  they  are  instructed  in  as 
much  of  the  rudiments  of  military  exercise  as  the  occasion  will 
allow;  besides  these  four  muster  days,  they  are  once  in  each 
year,  reviewed  by  the  commander  in  chief,  or  the  officer  com- 
maiding  the  division.  This  is  denominated  the  sedentary  mili- 
tia; and  as  the  average  strength  of  each  division  so  enrolled, 
may  be  computed  about  a  thousand,  it  makes  the  aggregate 
amount  upwards  of  52,000  men.*  The  incorporated  militia,  by 
an  act  passed  in  the  provincial  parliament  on  the  19th  of  May, 
1 812,  is  fixed  during  the  war,  at  two  thousand  men  ;  but  by  virtus 
of  authority  vested  in  the  governor,  it  is  at  present  increased' tp 
five  battalions,  or  nearly  double  the  number,  which,  on  the  re-esr 
tablishment  of  peace  with  th^  United  States,  will  be  reduced  to 
the  standard  named  in  the  act.  This  body  is  chosen  by  ballot 
from  the  unmarried  men  of  the  sedentary  militia;  its  term  of 


*  In  the  Lower  Province  onlv. 


B 0 UC  HE TTE *S  CANADA. 


[ADDENDA  SO.  I 


Service  is  two  years.  It  is  also  provided  that  one  half  of  each 
regiment  may  be  discharged  annually,  and  the  vacancies  filled 
up  by  a  fresh  ballot ;  a  plan  that  will  have  the  good  effect  of  ex- 
tending gradually  a  certain  degree  of  military  discipline  over  the 
greater  part  of  the  population  capable  of  bearing  arms.  The 
battalions  thus  formed  of  single  men,  renders  the  military  ser- 
vice le&  obnoxious  to  the  individual,  and  less  expensive  to  the 
state,  by  saving  the  provision  otherwise  necessary  to  be  made  for 
wives  and  children  of  militiamen  actually  embodied.  By  the 
same. act,  the  sum  of  twelve  thousand  pounds  annually  is  raised 
for  the  maintenance  of  this  constitutional  force.  The  incorpo- 
rated militia  is  weir  equipped  and  in  a  state  of  discipline  that 
merits  the  highest  commendations,  by  which  it  has  been  able  to 
brigade  with  the  regular  troops  during  the  existing  contest,  and 
to  take  so  distinguished  a  part  in  some  of  the  actions  fought,  that 
it  must  press  upon  the  consideration  of  government,  a  firm  reli- 
ance upon  its  future  exertions,  and  devotedness  in  the  cause  of 
its  country. 

"  In  the  Upper  Province,  the  same  system,  with  some  trifling 
modification,  prevails,  but  from  the  more  scanty  population  the 
force  is  proportionably  much  less;  however,  the  militia  of  Upper 
Canada  had  its  full  share  of  the  hardships  of  the  war,  as  well  a* 
many  opportunities  of  distinguishing  itself  in  presence  of  the  ene- 
my ;  and  the  real  magnitude  of  its  service  may  be  estimated, 
when  it  is  considered,  that,  by  availing  himself  of  it,  the  gover- 
nor general,  Sir  George  Prevost,  was  enabled  with  a  number  of 
troops  of  the  line,  inadequate  according  to  usual  military  calcu- 
lations, not  only  to  repel  every  attempt  of  the  American  com- 
manders to  invade  the  British  territory,  in  the  years  1813  and 
18 14,  but  to  overwhelm  the  assailants  with  defeats,  that  for  a  long 
time  will  leave  an  indelible  sFain  upon  thei/  military  reputa- 
tion." 

Geographical  Description  of  the  Province  of  Lower  Canada, 
with  remarks  upon  Upper  Canada. — London  y  1815.  Bif 
Joseph  Bouchette.    Page  15 — 24*.] 


+ 


ADDENDA  NO.  1.] 


BDUCIIETTE's  CANADA. 


"  AMERICA  possesses  a  climate  peculiar  to  itself ;  the  quantity 
and  prevalence  of  heat  and  cold,  seems  to  be  governed  by  laws 
materially  differing  from  those  that  regulate  the  temperature  of 
other  parts  of  the  earth.  It  is  certain  that  a  person  would  be 
materially  led  astray,  were  he  to  form  an  opinion  of  the  tempe- 
rature of  Canada  from  the  analogy  of  local  situation ;  it  lies,  for 
instance,  in  the  same  parallel  of  latitude  as  France,  but  instead 
&f  exhaling  the  exquisite  fragrance  of  flowers,  and  ripening  de- 
dicate fruit?,  delicious  excellence,  as  is  the  case  in  that  country, 
its  surface  is  covered  with  accumulated  snows  for  nearly  one  half 
Of  the  year,  and  vegetation  is  suspended  for  nearly  the  same 
period  by  continued  frost.  Yet  this  circumstance  is  ^unattended 
with  so  much  rigor  as  any  one  would  be  disposed  to  su spec t,  and 
notwithstanding  the  apparent  severity,  Canada  enjoys  a  climate 
that  is  congenial  to  health  in  an  eminent  degree,  and  highly  con- 
duces to  fertilize  its  soil.  Heat  and  cold  are  certainly  to  ex- 
tremes ;  the  latter  both  for  duration  and  intensity  by  far  the  most 
predominant,  is  supposed  to  derive  much  of  its  force;  from  the  fol- 
lowing cause,  viz.  the  land  stretches  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to- 
wards the  north  pole,  which  it  approaches  much  nearer  to,  anfc! 
with  a  less  intervention  of  sea,  than  that  on  the  old  continent  % 
it  expands  also  an  immense  distance  to  the  westward  \  therefore^ 
the  winds  between  the  north-east  and  north*west  passing  over  a 
less  surface  of  water  than  in  the  same  portion  of  the  other  he- 
misphere, are  consequently  divested  of  a  similar  quantity  of  their 
hi  tense  frigor,  and  afterwards  sweeping  across  the  immense  chain 
of  mountains,  covered  with  perpetual  snows  and  ice  that  intersects 
the  whole  of  these  cheerless  regions,  they  acquire  a  penetrating 
severity,  by  traversing  so  vast  a  tract  of  frozen  ground,  that  even 
Mieir  progress  into  lower  latitudes,  cannot  disarm  them  of.  Of 
these  winds  the  north-west  is  the  most  rigorous  $*  and  even  in 
summer,  as  soon  as  it  prevails,  the  transition  from  heat  to  cold  is 
so  sudden,  that  the  thermometer  has  been  known  to  fall  nearly 
thirty  degrees  in  a  very  few  hours.    The  highest  range  of  the 

*  This  is  also  the  case  in  all  parts  of  North  America,  east  of 
the  Chippewan  mountains;  the  frigid  influence  of  the  north-west 
current  of  air  is  severely  felt  upon  the  shores  of  the  gulf  of  Mexi- 
co. ...Upon 'the  Atlantic  slope,  east  of  the  Allegany  chain,  the 
muds  from  the  northwest  are  peculiarly  piercingly  cold. 


VUl 


BOUfcllETTE  S  CANADA, 


(^ADDENDA  XO.  f\ 


summer  heat,  is  usually  between  96  and  102  degrees  of  Fahren- 
heit f1  but  an  atmosphere  particularly  pure,  abates  the  oppressive 
fervor  felt  in  other  parts  at  the  same  point.  In  winter  the  mer- 
cury sometimes  sinks  to  31  degrees  below  zero,  but  this  must  be 
considered  its  very  greatest  depression,  and  as  happening  only 
once  or  twice  in  a  season,  or  perhaps  not  more  than  thrice  in 
two  seasons,  and  then  its  continuance  rarely  exceeds  forty-eight 
hours;  but  the  general  range  of  cold  in  medium  years,  may  be 
estimated  from  twenty  degrees  above,  to  twenty-five  degrees  be- 
low zero.  The  frost  which  is  seldom  interrupted  during  the  win- 
ter, is  almost  always  accompanied  with  a  cloudless  sky,  and  pure 
dry  air  that  makes  it  both  pleasant  and  healthy,  and  considera- 
bly diminishes  the  piercing  quality  it  possesses  when  the  atmos- 
phere is  loaded  with  vapours.  At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
province,  from  its  vicinity  to  the  sea,  fogs  are  brought  on  by  an 
easterly  wind,  but  to  the  westward  they  seldom  prevail,  and  even 
at  Quebec  are  almost  unknown.  The  snow  usually  lies  on  the 
ground  until  the  latter  end  of  April,  when  it  is  melted  by  the 
powerful  rays  of  the  sun,  rather  than  dissolved  by  the  progress  of 
thaw,  the  air  still  continuing  pure  and  frosty;  when  it  has  disap- 
peared, the  spring  may  be  said  to  commence ;  and  as  the  ground 
being  protected  by  so  thick  a  covering  during  winter,  is  seldom 
frozen  many  inches  deep,  the  powers  of  vegetation  almost  imme- 
diately resume  their  activity,  and  bring  on  the  fine  sea- 
son, that  would  excite  in  a  stranger  to  the  country  the 
greatest  degree  of  astonishment.  Rain  prevails  most  in  the 
spring  and  fall  of    the    year,f    but   is   seldom   violent  or. 

*  If  the  thermometer  of  Fahrenheit  ranges  in  Canada,  in 
summer,  between  96  and  102,  the  intensity  of  Canadian  heat  is 
greater  than  in  Louisiana ;  I  never  was  made  acquainted  with  a 
higher  range  of  the  thermometer  in  New-Orleans,  when  proper- 
ly placed,  than  94Q, 

f  Taken  in  the  sense  understood  by  Mr.  Bouchette,  when  he 
wrote  the  above  expression,  the  same  observation  would  apply 
with  equal  force  to  all  those  parts  of  North  America,  included  in 
the  Canadas  and  United  States.  But,  in  reality,"  the  rainy  season 
of  all  these  vast  regions  actually  commences  about  the  beginning 
of  November,  and  continues  until  the  latter  end  of  April.  Snow- 
is  only  water  in  a  state  of  congelation;  and  in  fact  that  element 
falls  from  the  clouds  in  all  states,  between  complete  fluidity,  tQ 
that  of  the  most  solid  ice.    It  is  therefore,  unfounded  in  princt- 


ADBENBA  NO.  l.j  BOUCHETTX's  CANADA, 


of  long  duration  in  the  level  parts  of  the  province.    Towards  the 
mountains,  however,  their  frequency,  and  duration  are  both  in- 
creased.   Borderiug  on  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  as  the  face  of 
the  soil  is  rugged  and  mountainous,  the  climate  somewhat  influ- 
enced thereby,  participates  in  its  ungenial  nature ;  but  advanc- 
ing to  tiie  westward,  it  becomes  more  mild,  and  encourages  the 
resumption  of  agricultural  labours  at  a  much  earlier  period,  par- 
ticularly in  ihe  western  district  of  the  Lower,  and  all  the  settled 
parts  of  the  Upper  Province  ;  at  Montreal,  for  instance,  only  79 
geographical  miles  south  ward,  aad  145  miles  due  west  from  the 
meridian  of  Quebec,  the  spring  is  reckoned  to  commence  from 
five  to  six  weeks  earlier  than  at  the  latter  place.    Vegetation  is 
proportionately  more  luxuriant  and  vigorous,  producing  crops  of 
greater  increase,  by  seldom  experiencing  checks  in  their  early 
stages  from  the  hoar  frost,  so  injurious  to  the  rising  growth  where- 
ever  it  prevails.    In  a  comparison  between  the  climates  of  Great 
Britain  and  the  Canadas,  some  advantages  result  to  the  latter,  be- 
cause the  prevalence  of  fine  clear  weather,  and  a  pure  atmos- 
phere greatly  exceeds  that  in  the  former;  besides,  the  degree  of 
cold  is  proved  by  actual  experiment,  not  to  be  proportionate  to  the 
indication  of  the  thermometer;  as  a  corroborating  instance,  it  is 
remarked,  lit  Its  utmost  severity,  which  is  in  the  months  of  Janu- 
ary and  February,  the  labour  of  artisans  in  out-door  employments 
is  rarely  suspended  many  days  in  succession. 

«  From  the  climate  of  a  country,  its  soil  comes  under  notice 
by  a  sort  of  natural  transition.  On  making  a  calculation  of  the 
superficial  eon  tents  of  the  area,  enclosed  between  the  two 
principal  ranges  of  mountains  before  spoken  of,  about  16, 
u23-,000  square  acres  may  be  computed,  to  include  the  great- 
er part  of  live  land  in  the  Lower  Province  yet  surveyed,  that 
is  capable  of  4>eing  turned  to  any  favorable  account  in  an 
agricultural  point  of  view..  In  so  great  an  extent,  undoubt- 
edly every  gradation  of  quality,  between  very  bad  and  very 
good  is  to  be  found;  but  it  would  be  attended  with  some  dif- 

ples  of  true  meteorological  philosophy  to  call  spring  and  autumn 
our  rainy  seasons.  In  all  places  where  winter  is  of :  sufficient 
length  and  frigidity  to  permit  considerable  accumulation  of  snow, 
ihe^spring  floods  in  rivers,  owe  their  augmentation /more  to  the 
melting  of  that  meteor,  than  to  the  rain  tlrat  falls  -dn riii g  #e  vim 
sjjjf  the  waters. 

R3 


s 


£0U€HETTE5S  CANADA. 


[addenda  ko.  « 


ficulty,  to  state  with  tolerable  correctness  the  relative  proportion 
of  each  kind.  Sensible  that?  in  thus  gene ralizing  the  whole,  oh;1j 
an  imperfect  sketch  can  be  given,  it  is  my  intention  that  as  mmh 
care  as  possible  shall  be  used  to  render  the  subject  more  clear  and 
familiar,  when  treating  the  different  districts  and  divisions  topo- 
graphically. For  the  present  then,  it  may  suffice  to  say,  that? 
with  respect  to  goodness,  the  eastern  parts  are  inferior  to  the 
western,  being  of  a  more  irregular  and  uneven  surface,  m  many 
places  consisting  of  a  light  soil,  of  a  sandy  nature,  laid  upon  s& 
stratum  of  perfect  sand  or  gravel,  in  others  it  is  varied  with  mix- 
tures of  clay,  loam,  and  sometimes  a  good  vegetable  mould  upsm 
tgk  reddssli  argillaceous  bottom,  constituting  a  medium  between  the 
two  extremes;  this  latter  species  is  rather  supposed  to  exceed  the 
inferior  classes  m  quantity,  and  with  a  moderate  degree  of  care- 
ful husbandry  will  yield  the  farmer  pretty  fair  returns.  In  the 
western  part  of  the  province,  although  the  variety  is  nearly  a$ 
great  as  in  the  other,  in  its  nature  it  is  very  superior  ;  the  sort 
most  esteemed,  is  a  composition  of  fine  rich  loams,  both  a  yellow 
and  bluish  colour,  with  a  good  black  earth,  forming  a  soil,  that  ire 
the  country  is  supposed  to,  be  endued  with  the  greatest  share"  of 
fertilizing  properties  of  any  of  the  natural  classes >  and  of  this 
$ort  consists  the  chief  portion  of^aml  ii\  the  western  division  ;  the 
remaining  pari  is  always  above  mediocrity $  in  fae£,  it  may  h& 
fairly  asserted,  that  through  the  whole  of  North  America,  and  in- 
deed in  many  other  countries,  it  will  |>e  difficult  to  meet  with  land 
more  inviting  to  form  new  settlements  upon,  or  where.it  is  alrea- 
dy cultivated,  capable  of  being  made  more  generous  and  produce 
five,  by  the  introduction  of  an  improved  system  of  husbandry*. 
Its  superiority  over  the  contiguous  districts  of  the  United  States 
is  fully  manifest,  by  the  readiness  with  which  American  families 
m  considerable  numbers,  have  for  years  past,  abandoned  the  less 
fertile  fields  of  their  nativity,  to  settle  upon  a  soil  that  they  are 
certain  will  abundantly  repay  the  industry  and  art  bestowed  upon* 
it.  Undoubtedly  the  burthen  ®€  the  taxes  and  peculiar  laws  will 
have  had  some  share  in  causing  these  migrations  across  the  bor- 
ders, into  a  country  where  neither  would  be  felt.  But  be  this  as 
it  may,  many  farmers  thus  changing  the  scene  of  their  labours, 
have,  either  by  purchase  or  by  lease,  obtained  extensive  estates 
and  endenizened  themselves  under  the  British  government ;  wl^tel 


'A5D2XDA  NO.  I.J  BOUCHETTE's  CANADA.  Xi 

others,  as  eager  to  enjoy  the  same  advantages,  but  less  honest  in 
their  manner  of  obtaining  them,  have  selected  convenient  situa- 
tions among  the  reserved  lands,  wherein  they  have  unceremoni- 
ously domiciliated  without  license  or  title;  and  even  without  the 
acknowledgement  of  rent,  have  continued  to  cultivate  and  inn 
prove  their  favorite  spots  thus  chosen.* 

"  This  species  of  tenure  certainly  ought  not  to  be  allowed  by 
the  crown,  and  means  should  undoubtedly  be  taken  to  eject  such 
tenants,  because  their  prior  occupancy,  the  irregularity  of  its  be* 
ing  generally  unknown,  deprive^s4he  natural  subject  of  taking  the 
lots  upon  the  terms  before  recited.  It  is  also  desirable  not  to 
permit  the  pernicious  example  of  such  unauthorised  possession  of 
valuable  property  to  -communicate  its  influence,  or,  indeed,  to  ex* 
ist  at  all.  It  is  much  to  be  wished,  that  the  system  of  manage- 
ment in  Lower  Canada  was  as  good  as  the  land,  upon  which  it  is 
exercised ;  agricultural  riches  would  then  flow  in  a  copious  and 
inexhaustible  stream  ;  for  if  the  natural  excellence  of  soil  and 
goodness  of  climate,  contending  against  the  disadvantages  of  a 
very  inferior,  not  to  say  bad  mode  of  husbandry,  be  capable  of 

*  How  far  a  disaffected  citizen  of  the  United  States,  is  qualifi- 
ed to  make  a  good  British  subject  in  Canada,  I  am  unable  to  de- 
termine.   Where  Mr.  Couchette  is  uninfluenced  by  national  or. 
political  prejudices,  he  is  a  respectable  writer ;  but  when  descant- 
ing  upon  any  subject  relating  to  the  United  States,  he  evinces 
more  than  the  mere  partiality  of  an  Englishman.    My  opinion 
lias  been  given  in  the  text,  that  iu  no  part  of  his  Britannic  ma- 
jesty's dominions,  except  India,  are  to  be  found  so  many  persons 
in  proportion  to  given  uumbers,  averse  to  the  people  and  govern- 
ment of  the  United  States,  as  in  the  two  Canadas,  New-Bruns- 
wick, and  Nova  Scotia.    Great  moral  change  in  public  feeling 
must  take  place,  before  the  inhabitants  of  these  provinces  can 
relish  our  institutions.    Wise  and  reflecting  men  in  the  British 
North  American  possessions,  would,  to  avoid  a  frequent  recurring 
border  warfare,  an  evil  they  have  experienced,  consent  if  all  cir- 
cumstances were  favorable  to  a  separation  from  Great  Britain; 
but  would  very  reluctantly  be  amalgamated  into  the  Union  of  the 
States.    Indeed  without  violent  and  repeated  infractions  upon 
their  personal  rights,  the  people  of  Canada  will  long  remaiu  as 
ihey  now  are,  sincerely  attached  to  the  government  of  the  parent 
state.    It  was  such  infractions  pertinaciously  continued,  that 
produced  the  United  States;  let  England  profit  by  the  folly  and 
crimes  of  her  former  rulers* 


Xit  BOUCHETTJe's  CAXADA,  [ADBtfN#A  x&A>. 

yielding  crops  of  15  to  18  to  one,  what  might  not  be  expected 
from  it,  weie  the  modern  improvement  in  implements  as  well  a* 
culture,  that  have  been  introduced  with  so  much  benefit  in  Eng- 
land, to  be  applied  to  it?  The  Canadian  farmer  unfortunately 
and  it  is  a  subject  much  to  fcc  lamented*  has  hitherto  had  wj 
means  of  acquiring  instruction,  m  the  many  new  and  beneficial 
methods,  by  which  modern  science  has  so  greatly  assisted  the  la- 
bors of  the  husbandman.  Unskilled  in  any  other  mode,  he  con- 
tinues to  till  his  fields  by  the  same  rule  that  his  forefathers  follow- 
ed for  many  generations^  which  long  habit  and  au  unprofitable 
partiality  engrafted  thereon,  seems  to  have  endeaied  to  him  ^ 
knowing  the  natural  bounty  cf  his  land,  he  places  his  greatest  re- 
liance upon  it,  and  feels  satisfied  when  he  reaps  a  crop  not  infe- 
rior to  that  of  the  year  gone  by,  apparently  without  a  wish  to  in- 
crease his  stores  by  the  adoption  of  untried  means.  .Apprehen- 
sions of  failure  aiid  consequent  loss,  operate  more  strongly  than 
disinclination,  for  a  desire  to  enlarge  his  profits  is  full  as  lively  hi 
him  as  in  other  men,  which)  aided  by  a  genius  active  in  imitating^ 
would  certainly  impel  him  to  try  his  success  at  any  innovation,, 
productive  of  corresponding  advantages,  that  might  be  introduc- 
ed by  another.  Example  is  the  only  stimulus  required,  and  H  is 
well  worth  the  attention  of  those  to  whom  the  welfare  of  the  Bri- 
tish colonies  is  confided,  and  who  must  be  sensible  of  the  import- 
ance of  this  one  in  particular,  to  consider  of  means  by  w hie h  tin's 
stimulus  could  be  most  effectually  excited.  Whatever  encourage- 
ment might  be  given  as  an  incentive  to  the  industry  cf  the  native) 
or  the  alien  settler,  to  persevere  in  an  approved  phn  of  clearrng> 
draining,  and  getting  under  cultivation  the  new  lands,  or  of 
provement  ujpon  such  as  are  already  under  management,  by  a  re- 
form of  the  present  system,  a  judicious  variation  of  crops,  ami 
the  introduction  of  neiv  articles  suitable  to  the?  climate,  of  winds 
there  are  many>  would  be  attended  with  so  much  benefit  that  in  a 
very  few  years  these  provinces  must  become  one  of  the  most  va- 
luable of  all  the  exterior  possessions  of  Great  Britain. 

44  The  practice  of  husbandry  in  Canada  is  defective  m  some 
very  principal  points:  in  the  tirst  place  the  use  of  the  plough, 
which  ought  to  be  viewed  as  the  base  of  all  agrarian  improve- 
ment, is  not  enough  attended  to,  and  where  it  is  applied,  it  is 
•done  in  a  manner  so  inadequate  to  the  purpose,  that  the^ood  hv: 


*uWexda  no.  t§ 


COUCHETTE  5S  HA^AVA. 


xiu 


tended  to  be  derived  from  it,  is  powerfully  counteracted ;  general  - 
ly  speaking,  this  operation  is  performed  so  light ly,  that  scared) 
more  than  the  surface  of  the  ground  is  broken  by  it ;  the  weeds 
that  ought  to  be  extirpated  are  only  cut  off,  they  consequently 
shoot  out  again  and  absorb  much  of  the  vigor  of  the  soil,  that 
otherwise  would  nourish  the  seed  and  plants  committed  to  it.  If 
the  Canadian  husbandman  could  witness  the  difference  between 
the  style  of  ploughing  in  England  and  his  own,  I  am  certain  that 
he  would  readily  be  convinced  of  its  utility.,  and  willing  to  adopt 
a  method  so  much  in  favor  of  his  autumnal  expectations.  Ano- 
ther main  object  in  farming  improvements,  is,  the  judicious  ap- 
plication of  the  various  manures  to  different  soils,  in  which  es- 
sential particular  it  must  be  admitted  the  Canadian  practice  |» 
much  in  arrear,  as  it  is  only  within  a  few  years,  and  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  huge  towns,  that  it  has  in  some  degree  been  at- 
tended to  by  a  few  farmers  more  intelligent  than  their  brethren  ^ 
this  neglect,  added  to  the  pernicious  practice  of  sowing  the  saint; 
sort  of  srain  year  after  year,  upon  the  same  laud,  without  other 
means  of  renovation  than  letting  it  lie  fallow  for  a  season,  must 
excite  wonder  that  it  should  produce  such  crops  as  it  actually 
does.    When  the' heart  of  the  land  is  supposed  to  be  gone,  or 
greatly  deteriorated,  the  remedy  is,  after  taking  a  crop  of  wheat 
from  it,  to  allow  a  natural  layer  of  clover  and  grass,  which  serves 
as  summer  feed  for  cattle.    In  autumn  it  receives  a  ploughing  in 
the  usual  way,  and  in  tho  ensuing  spring  is  again  put  under  wheat 
t)r  oats.    This  plan  is  unprofitable  and  injudicious,  the  stock  de- 
rives but  little  advantage  from  the  herbage,  while  with  a  little 
more  care  the  grounds  might  be  turned  to  much  better  account. 
The  introd notion  of  -different  kinds  of  grasses  and  other  succu- 
lents, regulated  by  a  moderate  degree  of  skill,  could  not  fail  be- 
ing attended  with  complete  success.    Among  the  various  serts, 
the  English  red,  and  Dutch  wl-nte  clover  are  worthy  of  notice^ 
being  calculated  as  well  for  summer  teed  as  excellent  winter  store. 
To  these  might  be  added  the  yellow  Swedish  turnip,  a  species  per- 
haps superior  to  any  other  of  its  class,  as  it  will  endure  the  mcst 
violent  frost,  and  maintains  its  goodness  unt'il  the  spring,  as  well 
as  in  autumn  :  that  the  acquisition  of  such  a  plant  to  a  country 
always  subject  to  a  long  winter  would  soon  become  valuable,  does 
not  admit  of  a  questioii.    Ills  entitled  to  the  farmer's  attention, 


X,V-  BOtl  HETTE'S  CANADA.  ^ADDENDA  NO,  li 

as  beh*g  a  profitable  article;  from  20  to  25  tons  per  acre  may  be 
raised  by  careful  management,  which  if  housed  before  winter  sets 
in,  would  furnish  an  undeniable  food  for  cattle  during  that  season  ; 
by  its  means  he  would  obtain  a  beneficial  employment  in  fatten- 
ing his  stock  intended  for  market,  and  also  a  large  quantity  of  va^ 
luable  manure  from  his  farm-yard,  ready  to  be  applied  to  the 
poor  and  exhausted  lands  at  the  breaking  up  of  the  frost.  Many 
other  advantages  would  be  the  result,  if  a  systematic  arrange- 
ment in  the  change  of  crops  were  to  take  place  of  the  undeviat- 
Ing  practice  at  present  existing;  by  it  a  great  progress  would  be 
made  in  the  science  of  agriculture,  and  a  long  catalogue  of  he- 
reditary errors,  wuuld  no  more  remain  unopposed  by  any  radical 
improvement.    I  must  again  repeat,  that  example  only  is  wanting 
to  induce  the  Canadian  farmers  to  explode  the  unproductive  me- 
thods they  have  so  long  followed,  and  yield  ta  the  admission  of 
profitable  innovations.    There  is  yet  another  article  or  two  of 
culture  of  the  very  first  importance  to  the  mother  country,  which 
would  most  certainly  prove  highly  beneficial  to  these  provinces  if 
sufficient  attention  were  to  be  paid  to  them.    The  first  of  these 
is  hemp,  well  known  to  be  a  native  plant  of  the  country,  with 
climate  and  soil  peculiarly  well  adapted  fo  its  growth  ;  in  small 
quantities  it  has  bce(n  raised  on  many  farms,  though  as  an  object 
of  commerce,  the  cultivation  of  it  has  not  been  attended  with 
success,  notwithstanding  it  has  been  tried  under  the  sanction  of 
government,  that  held  out  the  encouragement  of  premiums,  with 
the  additional  inducement  of  a  certain  good  price,  per  ton  for  all 
such  as  might  be  produced  fit  for  its  purposes;  as  so  desirable  an 
object  hath  not  been  accomplished  under  these  circumstances,  ii 
would  seem  to  imply  that  some  insurmountable  obstacle  opposes 
it.    In  reality  there  is  none  such,  both  soil  and  climate  are  favor- 
able as  nature  could  form  them,  and  the  extensive  demand  of 
Great  Britain  must  ever  ensure  an  undoubted  market  at  prices 
high  enough  to  remunerate  the  growers  very  handsomely :  the 
cause  of  failure  in  the  attempt,  must  be  sought  for  somewhere  else 
than  in  any  natural  deficiencies.    That  time  and  considerable 
sums  of  money  have  been  wasted  is  unquesliouably  true,  but  it  is 
equally  a  fact,  that  the  good  intentions  of  administration  have 
been  defeated  by  the  inadequate  measures  pursued  in  the  execu- 
tion of  the  plans;  and  not  a  little  impeded  by  a  want  of  general 


ADDENDA  NO.  I.J 


B 0  V C  il E T'i  £  ?S  C AN AD  * , 


XV 


agricultural  knowledge,*  n  the  persons  to  whom  its  management  was 
confided.  It  is  not  to  be  denied,  but  that  there  are  some  existing 
difficulties  to  be  removed  before  the  cultivation  of  hemp  can  be 
made  generally  agreeable  to  all  persons  interested  in  the  agricul- 
tural produce  of  the  province;  but  as  the  chief  of  these  arise 
from  the  discountenance  the  clergy  might  show  to  its  introduction 
on  an  extensive  scale,  from  a  supposition  that  it  would  interfere 
with  raising  wheat  and  other  grain  upon  (he  lands  now  in  tillage,, 
and  thereby  somewhat  diminish  their  revenues ;  may  they  not 
be  surmounted  by  making  it  a  tithable  article,  and  fixing  the 
rate  to  be  paid  as  it  is  in  England,  namely,  live  shillings  per 
acre,  or  otherwise  in  the  same  proportion  as  the  contribution  of 
grain  is  at  present  taken  by  them,  a  20th  part  ?— Under  such  a  re* 
gulation  the  ecclesiastical  body  would  consult  its  own  interest,  by 
promoting  the  increase  of  this  production ;  a  measure  whicl* 
could  easily  be  accomplished  by  the  powerful  influence  thai  body 
possesses  in  all  the  concerns  of  the  country  people,  whether  tem- 
poral or  spiritual,  I  have  been  unequivocally  assured  by  a  gen- 
tleman, who  has  devoted  the  greatest  part  of  his  life  to  the  im- 
provements of  growing  and  dressing  both  hemp  and  ilax,  that  he 
has  carefully  examined  several  parcels  of  the  former,  sent  some 
time  ago  from  Canada  to  London,  and  is  decidedly  of  opinion, 
that  the  growth  is  rnueh  superior  to  what  is  in  general  imported 
from  Russia:  but  on  the  other  hand,  from  mismanagement  after 
pulling,  and  from  being  steeped  in  bad  water,  its  quality  and  co- 
lour, are  greatly  inferior  to  what  they  would  have  been,  had  it 
Undergone  a  proper  process.  The  management  of  this  plant 
contains  nothing  of  mystery,  and  is  so  plain  that  it  may  be  car- 
ried  on  by  the  least  intelligent  husbandman  in  the  colony,  if  ho 
be  but  once  put  in  the  proper  routine,  The  choice  of  a  soil  fk 
for  the  purpose  is  a  leading  point,  and  the  kind  which  js  consider* 
ed  the  best,  is  a  rich  deep  loam,  whereon  a  very  good  crop  may 
be  raised  without  manure,  but  it  rnay  be  grown  on  almost  any 
species  not  absolutely  of  a  bad  quality,  if  it  be  well  manured,  ex- 
cept where  there  is  a  cold  sub-foil  or  a  very  shallow  staple.  To 
ensure  a  good  crop,  the  most  careful  attention  must  be  paid  to 
ploughing  and  preparing  the  land.  The  tilth  should  be  as  line 
and  as  deep  as  possible,  a  circumstance  hitherto  but  little  noticed 
by  the  most  part  of  ouv  Canadian  farmers,  and  in  consequence  of 


^1  feoulli>E TTK  S  6ANABA.  [ADDENDA  NO.  I? 

4his  neglect,  their  produce  has  been  most  materially  reduced  in 
quantity.  The  seed,  of  which  about  four  bushels  should  be  al- 
lowed  per  acre,  ought  not  to  be  put  in  the  ground  until  the  wea- 
ther is  become  warm  5  for  the  young  plants  when  they  begin  to 
shoot  up  are  exceedingly  tender,  and  liable  to  be  injured  if  night 
frosts  happen  in  the  early  period  of  their  growth.  May  is  gener- 
ally the  best  month  for  sowing  it  5  but  in  Canada  this  time  must 
be  pointed  out  by  a  correct  knowledge  of  the  climate.  After  the 
seed  is  got  in,  a  light  harrow  should  be  used,  and  nothing  more 
is  required  until  it  is  lit  for  pulling;  this  will  be,  in  from  ten  to 
fourteen  weeks.  In  iremp  the  male  and  female  plants  are  mom 
distinctly  defined  than  in  almost  any  other  species  5  the  former 
bears  a  light  coloured  (lower,  but  never  produces  any  seed,  the 
fetter,  on  the  contrary,  yields  tlie  seed  but  does  not  bear  a  flower. 
Land  is  not  at  all  impoverished  by  the  growth  of  hemp,  for  after 
a  good  crop  has  been  pulled,  it  cannot  possibly  be  in  better  condi- 
tion to  be  laid  under  wheat,  or  indeed  any  tiling  else. 

f;f  The  different  soils  both  of  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,  are  like- 
Vise  adnnrably  well  calculated  for  the  growth  of  flax,  an  article 
well  deserving  the  farmer's  consideration,  from  its  yielding,  with 
tolerable  good  management,  a  larger  as  well  as  more  certain 
profit  than  the  greater  part  of  other  crops.  Loam,  loam  mixed 
w4th  clay,  grave!,  or  sand,  or  clay  alone,  indeed  any  land  but 
such  is  very  wet  or  very  shallow,  is  good  for  raising  it.  On 
warm,  dry  soils  the  sowing  may  commence  in  the  middle  of 
March,  and  continue  according  to  the  condition  and  quality  ot 
the  land,  until  the  first  week  in  May  ;  but  with  it,  as  with  hemp, 
the  seed  time  must  be  guided  by  a.  knowledge  of  the  climate. 
The  ground  may  be  prepared  by  a  moderate  ploughing,  which  is 
not  required  to  be  very  deep.  From  two  and  a  half  to  three 
hushels  of  seed  per  acre  may  be  sown,  winch  must  be  harrowed 
h\,oi'  bush  harrowed,  and  afterwards  well  rolled.  When  the 
plants  are  from  four  to  six  inches  high,  care  should  betaken  to 
have  them  well  weeded,  and  then  no  further  attention  is  required 
until  the  season  for  p  id  ling  arrives,  it  remains  on  the  ground 
.from  twelve  to  sixteen  weeks,  and  is  sufficiently  hardy  not  to  re- 
ceive any  injury  from  -night  frosts.  Flax  and  flax  seed,  as  well 
as  hemp,  may  be  produced  in  Canada  fully  equal,  to  say  the  least 
^f  iU  to  what  is  obtained  -from  any  other  country.    But  th«y  have 


BO.U  C  H  E  TTK  S  C  A  N  ADA  * 


always  been  so  injudiciously  managed  after  pulling,  that  their* 
natural  good  qualities  have  been  seriously  deteriorated.  From 
whence  one  might  deduce,  that  unless  a  very  different  system  be 
resorted  to,  no  reasonable  expectation  of  profit  from  growing  it 
can  be  formed,  and  consequently  few  endeavors  will  be  made  to 
extend  the  cultivation  of  these  valuable  articles.    But  to  combat 
such  a  supposition,  1  feci  infinite  pleasure  in  being  able  to  make 
known  among  my  countrymen  generally,  that  the  process  oi 
steeping  and  dew  rotting  now  in  practice,  whereby  the  fruits  of 
their  labor  have  been  so  seriously  injured,  may  be  entirely  su- 
perceded, and  henceforward  the  culture  of  these  imporant  pro- 
ductions may  be  pursued  with  an  absolute  certainty  of  deriving 
an  ample  profit  therefrom.   However  doubtful  this  assertion  may 
appear  to  many,  it  will  nevertheless  be  realised  by  the  use  oi 
machines  for  threshing  out  the  seed,  and  separating  the  woody 
from  the  fibrous  parts,  both  of  hemp  and  flax,  invented  by  Mr, 
Lee,  to  whom  a  patent  has  been  granted  for  his  highly  valuable 
discovery.    From  a  minute  .and  attentive  inspection  of  this  ma- 
chinery, simple  in  its  construction  beyond  all  conception,  as  well 
as  completely  effectual  in  its  performance,  and  from  the  occular 
demonstration  of  the  perfect  success  of  its  operation  I  have  had 
the  satisfaction  to  receive  from  this  gentleman  at  Ins  factory,  I 
am  warranted  in  saying  with  the  utmost  confidence,  that  if  it  be 
introduced  into  the  British  North  American  colonies,  the  greatest 
benefits  will  be  derived,  not  only  by  them,  but  by  Great  Britain 
also..*,  As  it  will  stimulate  the  occupiers  of  land  to  pursue  this 

*  I  have  been  more  minute  in  making  the  foregoing  and  far- 
ther extracts  from  Mr.  BoueheUe's  work,  from  a  conviction  that 
any  useful  innovation,  improvement  or  invention  that  can  be  in- 
troduced into  the  Canadian  provinces,  can  be.  with  at  teas*  as 
much  utility  adopted  in  the  contiguous  parls  of  the  United  States., 
The  culture  of  flax,  has  since  the  extensive  introduction  of  cot- 
ton cloths,  declined  in  the  United  States  :  but  the  benefits  of  the 
change,  in  many  places  may  be  justly  doubted.  The  invention 
of  the  circular  saw,  for  extracting  the  seed  from  the  fibre  of  cot- 
ton, was  the  epoch  of  the  extension  of  that  article,  and  its  cheap 
application  to  the  wants  of  mankind.  How  far  human  genius 
may  obviate  the  expence  to  which  the  culture  of  flax  has  hitherto 
been  subject  it  is  impossible  to  determine ;  if  the  statements  of 
Mr.  Bouchette  are  even  partially  correct,  much  is  already  done  on 


xviii 


BOUCHETTE?S  CANADA. 


[addenda  no.  jfc 


branch  of  husbandry  more  than  any  premiums  offered,  or  means 
resorted  to  by  government,  woutd  be  able  to  do  under  the  old  me- 
thod. By  the  use  of  this  invention,  the  necessity  of  steeping  and 
d&V  rotting  being  avoided,  the  farmer  havilig  pulled  his  crop,  has 
nothing,  to  do  but  stack  it,  when  sufficiently  dry  for  that  purpose, 
and  let  it  remain  until  convenient  opportunities  occur  of  bringing 
it  into  a  marketable  state,  which  may  now  be  performed  in  a 
very  few  hours. 

The  superiority  of  this  mode  of  preparation  is  very  great,  and 
the  advantages  obtained  by  it  in  equal  proportion.  All  the  labour 
and  attendant  expence  of  steeping,  spreading  and  drying  ;  as 
well  as  the  losses  incident  to  these  operations,  is  wholly  saved. 
The  produce  of  fibre  is  fully  one-third  greater  by  this  than  by 
former  methods  5  while  the  fibre  itself  preserves  the  whole  of  its 
natural  strength  unimpaired  by  any  destructive  process.  In 
cieaning  flax  the  whole  of  the  seed  is  preserved,  and  some  parts 
of  the  plant  that  by  steeping  are  entirely  destroyed,  are  now 
saved  to  be  turned  to  a  very  profitable  account.  The  chaff,  for 
instance,  is  an  excellent  food  for  horses,  cows,  sheep,  &c.  and 
the  woody  part  when  separated  from  the  fibre,  is  a  strong  manure, 
particularly  good  as  a  top  dressing  for  wheat ;  both  of  these  have 
hitherto  been  wasted.  The  mode  of  using  the  machines  is  so  easy 
as  to  be  worked  by  women  or  eveti  children;  they  may  ^without 
inconvenience  to  a  family,  be  fixed  in  cottages,  or  the  out-houses 
of  any  description,  so  as  to  furnish  a  constant  in-door  employ- 
ment through  the  winter  months.  'Hemp  or  flax  prepared  by  this 
invention  is  found,  from  experiment,  to  be  greatly  superior  in 
strength  to  any  other.  The  most  impartial  criterion,  namely, 
that  of  suspending  a  weight  by  a  line  made  of  different  sorts,  of 
the  same  length,  thickness  and  weight,  has  been  had  recourse  to, 
when  the  one  prepared  in  this  manner  has  supported  more  than 
double  the  weight  of  the  other. 

"  From  many  conservations  I  have  had  with  Mr.  Lee,  on  the 
subject  of  his  patent,  besides  frequent  proofs  of  its  efficacy,  I 
feel  the  strongest  conviction  that  the  value  of  his  invention  will 
soon  be  appreciated  when  it  is  introduced  into  Canada.  With 

that  subject,  and  serves  to  shew  how  slowly  the  most- val  imble 
discoveries  find  their  way  into  use 


>>i>D£NDA  HQ.  L]  JJOUCIIETtE^S  CAXAn/v,  Xiv 

such  an  impression  on  my  mind,  I  am  persuaded,  i  shttH  be  aid- 
ing to  increase  both  the  interest  and  comfort  of  my  fellow-coun- 
trymen, by  promoting,  as  far  as  lies  in  my  power,  the  general 
use  of  so  simple  and  so  well  contrived  an  apparatus.  To  estab- 
lish, in  some  degree,  the  reality  of  what  has  been  adduced,  I 
will  insert  the  following  estimate  of  the  expences  and  produce  of 
one  acre  of  flax,  which  I  have  been  repeatedly  assured  by  the 
patentee  is  the  result  of  many  years  practical  experience  as  a 
grower,  and  formed  upon  such/  a  calculation  as  any  fair  average 
crop,  properly  attended  to,  will  not  fail  of  realising  always,  and 
most  freqently  somewhat  exceed  it. 


EXPENSE  PER  ACRE. 


£ 

s. 

d. 

$ 

cts* 

Rent  of  land,  - 

5 

00 

00 

22 

22 

Plouchinp-  and  hnrrowirtfr.           -*  ^ 

*  1 

10 

00 

6 

6£ 

Sowing,  harrowing,  and  rolling, 

7 

06 

1 

6$ 

Weeding  by  hand, 

15 

10 

3 

32 

Pulling  and  setting  up, 

I 

00 

00 

4 

44 

Three  bushels  of  seed, 

1 

1  I 

06 

7 

00 

Cartage  and  stacking, 

-  I 

00 

00 

4 

44 

Threshing  out  the  seed,  and  cleaning 

the  flax 

fit  for  market. 

8 

10 

00 

37 

77 

£\9 

u 

00 

$87  51 

PRODUCE  PER 

ACRE. 

£ 

5. 

d. 

$ 

\0  Cwt.  at  60  shillings  per  cwt. 

00 

00 

133 

33 

9  bushels  of  seed  at  lf)&  per  bushel, 

-  4 

10 

00 

20 

00 

Chaff,          -          -          -  - 

1 

1 1 

06 

7 

00 

Manure, 

2 

00 

00 

8 

8.8 

o£38 

01 

06 

169 

21 

Expence>  - 

-  £19 

14 

00 

87 

51 

Profit  *  - 

£W 

or 

06 

$8  l  70 

*  I  have  reduced  this  estimate  to  Federal  money  at  an  allow- 
ance of  4s.  6d.  to  the  dolLar.  If  the  data  are  drawn  from  correct 
sources,  the  benefits  of  cultivating  flax  amount  to  a  very  seduc- 
tive aggregate,    The  value,  of  cotton,  to  the  cultivator,  does  not 


BOUCHETTK  S  CANADA. 


[ADDENDA  NO.  £ 


Ci  This  account  is  made  out  from  the  ratio  of  agricultural  ex- 
pences  in  ■England.  Some  of  its  items  are  undoubtedly  different 
from  wliat  they  would  be  in  the  colonies  ;  but  the  excess  in  one 
would  be  balanced,  or  nearly  so,  by  the  reduction  of  another  $ 
and  as  the  prices  allowed  foi  the  produce  .are  such  as  the  ordina- 
ry state  of  the  market  will  always  afford,  and  after  making  a 
reasonable  allowance  for  tythes,  freight,  and  other  incidental  ex- 
penccs,  the  general  result  is  sufficient  to  induce  speculation  with 
tolerable  fair  prospects  of  success.  It  must  be  also  taken  into 
consideration,  that  the  expense  of  the  machinery  is  very  mode- 
rate ;  nor  should  it  escape  notice  that  a  steady  demand  will  be 
found  in  England,  both  for  flax  and  seed  at  fair  prices.* 

much  exceed  the  balance  here  shewn  in  favor  of  flax  ;  and  if  the 
ordinary  cxpences  of  the  respective  places  where  those  two  veger 
tables  can  be  reared,  are  taken  into  account,  it  would  admit 
doubt  which  of  the  two  products  promise  the  largest  reward  to 
human  labor.  Rent  of  land  enters  largely  into  the  above  com- 
putation, and  though  the  price  of  land  in  tjie  U.  S.  must  be  also 
estimated,  the  interest  of  that  price  would  seldom  amount  to 
more  than  one  dollar  per  acre,  even  with  the  addition  of  clearing 
and  fencing  ;  consequently  the  profit  to  the  citizen  of  the  U,  S, 
would  be  greater,  than  to  the  English  farmer,  by  the  enormous 
difference  of  more  than  $20  per  acre. 

*  Flax,  if  now  cultivated  in  many  of  the  most  thickly  popin 
lated,  parts  of  Europe,  in  places,  where  from  the  number  of  peo^ 
pie  and  scarcity  of  land  upon  which  to  rear  vegetables  and  ann 
mals  for  food,  llax  would  cease  to  be  cultivated  could  the  inhabi- 
tants receive  in  commerce,  that  material  at  a  moderate  price 
It  is  only  since  the  introduction  of  the  saw-wheels  for  cleaning 
cotton  from  the  seed,  that  the  use  of  that  excellent  vegetable 
wool  lias  become  so  prevalent.  The  plough  itself,  does  not  pro- 
duce a  greater  comparative  abridgment  of  labour,  than  does  the 
saw-wheels.  Four  horses,  two  men,  and  one  boy  will  cleanse, 
pack,  and  enclose  in  bales  per  day  at  least  six  hundred  pounds  of 
clean  cotton,  with  a  common  cylinder  of  fifty  saws;  in  the  an- 
cient mode  of  extracting  the  seed  by  hand,  four  pounds  of  clean 
cotton  was  an  excessive  quantity  to  be  cleaned  in  one  day  by  one 
person.  If  the  value  of  the  machinery  and  attendance  are  as- 
sumed at  an  equivalent  often  full  grown  workmen,  there  remains 
a  difference  of  fifteen  to  one  in  favor  of  the  use  of  the  sa  w  ma- 
chinery in  cleansing  cotton.  Jt  is  very  probable  that  flax  and 
hemp  admit  a  rapid  transition  from  the  crude  plant  to  use,  in  ao 
^qual  ratio. 


ADDENDA  NO.  i.] 


BOUCHETTE*S  CANADA. 


u  With  respect  to  hemp,  it  can  never  be  doubted  but  what  his 
majesty's  government  will  be  again  ready  to  lend  every  support 
and  encouragement  to  the  production  of  an  article  in  our  own 
flominioiiS}  that  we  have  long  been  forced  to  purchase  from 
strangers  5  which  cultivation  meeting  with  success,  in  a  few  years 
may  render  our  country  wholly  independent  of  the  north  of  Eu- 
rope, for  its  supply,  or  at  any  rate  liberate  it  from  the  apprehen- 
sion of  ever  being  put  to  serious  inconvenience  by  any  change  of 
political  sentiments  in  sovereigns.  The  welfare  of  my  native 
province  and  its  parent  state,  has  ever  been  with  me  the  strong* 
est  incentive  to  exertion;  and  a  ray  of  hope  that  I  may  be  an 
humble  instrument  towards  promoting  a  pursuit  which  would  re- 
dound to  the  advantage  of  both,  hath  occasioned  me  to  enter 
more  largely  into  this  subject  than  I  at  first  intended.  If  my  ex- 
pectations are  too  sanguine  to  be  borne  out  by  the  opinions  of 
persons  more  enlightened  thereon  than  I  can  pretend  to  be,  I 
^vould  much  rather  they  would  be  attributed  to  an  erroneous 
judgment,  than  a  willingness  to  commit  myself  to  the  chance  of 
misleading  a  single  individual,  by  hazarding  any  unguarded  or 
unfounded  representations. 

"  To  ascertain,  in  the  scale  of  importance,  to  what  degree  the 
North  American  colonies  rise,  their  present  value$  and  now  much 
that  val  ue  is  capable  of  being  increased,  it  is  necessary  to  take  a 
view  of  their  commercial  concerns,  in  order  to  bring  their  re- 
sources fairly  before  us.  In  attempting  to  introduce  this  subject, 
Ifeel  no  small  degree  of  diffidence,  from  the  reflection  that  it  is 
one  much  out  of  the  line  of  my  professional  pursuits,  in  the  dis- 
cussion of  which  erroneous  opinions  are  very  liable  to  intrude, 
and  that  by  meddling  with  it  I  may  be  blamed  by  many  for  the 
imperfect  performance.  My  object  is  to  attract  to  this  point  tiie 
attention  of  men  well  informed  on  the  intricate  questions  of  mer- 
cantile policy,*  in  the  hope  that  some  much  abler  pen  than  mine, 

*  In  discussing  this  very  important  subject,  Mr.  Bouchette,  with 
all  his  modesty,  is  infinitely  more  competent  than  me.  Our  pro- 
fessional pursuits  were  indeed  similar,  and  as  far  as  those  pur- 
suits tend  to  disqualify  us  for  examining  the  arcana  of  trade,  our 
x  intellectual  impediments  are  equal :  but  in  an  intimate  know- 
ledge of  Canada,  and  of  course  with  the  adjacent  regions,  Mr. 
Bouchette  has  no  rival ;  therefore  his  opinions  where  not  warped 
by  political  or  national  feelings,  are^entitled  to  great  credit  \ 


BOUCHETTfi's  CANADA. 


[ADDENDA  NO  I. 


may,  at  no  remote  period,  place  i  t  i  n  a  more  clear  and  palpable  state, 
rather  than  to  promote  decision  by  any  observations  of  my  own. 
The  extent  of  my  endeavors  will  be  limited  to  conveying  some 
general  ideas  of  the  capabilities  possessed  by  these  provinces,  of 
rising  into  commercial  greatness,  if  their  interests  be  attended  to 
and  protected.  The  situation  of  both  Upper  and  Lower  Canada, 
are  replete  with  conveniences  for  trade.  The  great  extent  and 
many  ports  of  the  St.  Lawrence  accessible  to  ships  of  considera- 
ble burthen  ;  its  inland  navigation  even  to  the  extremity  of  the 
lakes ;  the  numerous  rivers  and  streams  which  fall  into  it,  by 
which  produce  of  all  kinds  may  be  conveyed  from  the  most  dis- 
tant settlements  to  Quebec,*  or  other  places  of  shipment,  open- 

have  minutely  transcribed  this  gentleman's  speculations  on  Ca- 
nadian commerce,  because  1  am  aware  that  hrs  observations  con- 
cern the  inhabitants  of  the  contiguous  stales  and  territories  of  the 
United  States,  if  possible  even  more  than  the  persons  to  whom 
his  words  are  addressed,  With  the  single  exception  of  its  freez- 
ing in  winter,  the  St.  Lawrence  does  certainly  possess,  in  climate?. 
soil,  productions  natural  and  artificial,  and  in  present  culture, 
resources  far  beyond  what  the  people  of  the  United  Slates  have 
any  adequate  conception.  In  the  revolutions  of  power,  first  im- 
pressions are  terrible  weapons  ;  in  the  changes  of  commerce,  pre- 
vious establishments  are  rocks  of  adamant.  If  the  rich  and  hour- 
ly increasing  products  of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley  once  flow  to 
Montreal,  to  that  city  will  they  flow,  maugre  all  that  legal  prohi- 
bition, or  even  the  suggestions  of  private  convenience  can  op- 
pose to  the  current.  Though  our  independence  politically,  is  se- 
cured beyond  the  reach  of  British  rivalry,  it  is  the  only  instance 
where  we  are  independent  of  that  active  and  insidious  govern- 
ment. Unfortunately  we  have  citizens  so  morally  dependant,  as 
to  induce  them  to  expend  the  fruits  of  their  talents  to  prevent  our 
entire  emancipation. 

*  This  is  only  correct  in  its  full  extent  below  the  Falls  of  Nia- 
gara; that  cataract  forming  a  formidable  interruption  to  the  na-* 
vigation  of  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Indeed  the  ship 
conveyance  in  that  river  and  its  connecting  lakes  are  naturally 
divided  into  four  sections,  separated  by  irremovable  impediments  ; 
first  section,  from  Montreal  downwards  to  the  gulf  ;  second,  from 
Niagara  to  Qgderisbu rg ;  ships  might  descend  below  the  latter 
village  about  five  miles,  to  the  head  of  the  Grand  Gallop  Island 
and  Rapids,  but  no  incentive  does  now,  or  probably  ever  will  cx*- 
ist,  to  induce  owners  of  vessels  to  fall  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Oswegatchie.  The  third  section  includes  lakes  Erie,  Huron,  Mi- 
chigan, and  the  mouths  of  their  confluents,  between  the  Falls  of 

t 


ADDENDA  NO.  I.]  feOUCliETTE?$  CANADA.  XXlii 

greater  facilities  to  mercantile  speetfations  than  perhaps  any 
other  country  can  offer.  This  river  is  the  only  channel  by  which 
the  commodities  of  these  two  provinces  find  their  way  to  distant 
countries,  and  is  also  by  far  the  most  natural,  as  well  as  most  ea- 
sily available  egress  for  such  productions  of  the  districts  of  the 
United  States  that  lie  contiguous  to  its  southern  bank,  as  they  are 
ahie  to  furnish  beyond  their  own  consumption.  Prohibitory  laws 
of  the  American  Senate,  have,  indeed,  of  late  been  passed  to 
bar  its  subjects  from  exportation  by  this  route ;  but  they  have 
not  obtained  so  much  attention  as  it  was  imagined  they  would.* 
A  very  large  tract  of  fertile  country  on  their  side  of  the  border, 
is  thickly  settled  and  in  high  cultivation;  the  industry  of  its  in- 
habitants always  insures  a  large  disposable  stock  of  the  fruits  of 
their  labors,  which  the  vigilance  and  invention  of  a  speculative 
disposition  will  not  fail  to  discover  means  of  transferring  to  the 
readiest  market,  in  despite  Of  enactments  that  arc  no  less  disa- 
greeable than  disadvantageous.  By  fostering  this  intercourse, 
Canada  would  always  secure  a  vast  addition  of  articles  of  the 
first  necessity  $  in  aid  of  its  own  surplus  produce,  to  meet  a  great 
increase  of  its  export  trade,  were  that  trade  relieved  by  the  Bri- 
tish government  from  some  of  the  impediments  thrown  in  its  way 
by  existing  regulations,  that  are  highly  favorable  to  American 
commerce* 

*?  The  principal  exports  from  the  Canadas,  consist  of  new  ships, 
oak  and  pine  timber,  deals,  masts  and  bowsprits,  spars  of  all  de- 
nominations, staves,  pot  and  pearl  ashes,  peitry^  wheat,  flour,  bis- 
cuit, Indian  corn,  pulse,  salt  provisions,  fish,  and  some  other  mis- 
Nisigara  and  the*  Saut  St.  Mary.  The  fourth  section  is  compos- 
ed of  lake  Superior  and  its  confluent  rivers.  The*  commerce  of 
the  first  two  divisions,  will  naturally  pass  to  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec :  that  of  the  latter  two,  will,  if  the  New- York  canal  was  fi- 
nished, in  great  part  pass  through  that  conveyence  into  the  Hud- 
son. 

*  The  most  efficacious  prohibition  would  be  a  water  rente, 
open  longer,  leading  to  a  better  market,  and  included  within  our 
own  country.  Laws  that  contravene,  to  any  great  degree,  the 
passions  or  avidity  of  mankind,  have  been1,  and  always  will  be, 
nugatory.  The  universality  of  severe  penal  statutes  against  du- 
elling, and  the  almost  equal  ubiquity  of  that  practice,  is  &  Jburt 
speaking  commentary  on  what  1  have  advanced  above. 


xxiv 


Couchette's  canada. 


[addenda  ko.  t* 


cellaneous  ai tides,  employing  generally  about  150,000  tons  of 
shipping.    In  this  enumeration,  the  articles  of  primary  conse- 
quence to  England,  are  the  growth  of  the  forests,  whether  consi- 
dered as  the  source  of  employment  to  British  ships  and  native 
sailors  in  the  carriage  of  it,  if  they  were  able  to  contend  for  the 
freights  against  the  indulgences  granted  to  their  opponents ;  or  as 
to  their  being  of  great  and  continued  consumption,  therefore  of 
indispensible  necessity.    Since  the  year  1 806,  the  timber  trade  of 
the  colonies,  but  of  the  Canadas  in  particular,  increased  in  aw 
extraordinary  degree,  until  the  state  of  the  country  at  the  com- 
mencement of  hostilities  with  America  not  only  checked  its  Ano- 
ther progress,  but  from  very  obvious  causes,  reduced  it  below  th@ 
standard  of  former  years.    This  diminution,  however,  must  b<e 
considered  only  accidental,  and  totally  unconnected  with  the  re- 
sources of  the  trade,  which,  according  to  the  most  discreet  me- 
thods of  calculation,  is  not  only  adequate  to  supply  abundantly 
the  demand  of  the  British  West-India  islands  with  square  timber, 
planks,  deals,  staves,  and  whatever  comes  under  the  general  name 
of  lumber,  but  to  furnish  a  large  proportion  of  the  same  for 
the  use  of  Great  Britain.    This  ability  it  was,  and  perhaps  with 
many  may  be  still  the  fashion  to  consider  problematical ;  but  let 
the  return  of  exports  from  1806  to  1810  be  examined,  and  it  will 
be  readily  seen,  that  in  these  four  years  they  advanced  from 
about  100,000  to  375,000  tons  from  all  the  provinces,  of  which 
nearly  one  half  was  from  Quebec  alone.    To  meet  this  demand,, 
no  difficulties  were  encountered  in  procuring  the  necessary  quan- 
tities, either  w  ith  respect  to  the  number  of  hands  to  be  employed 
in  collecting  it,  or  any  thing  like  a  failure  in  the  forests ;  and  had 
it  been  as  large  again,  it  might  have  been  answered  with  propor- 
tionate facility.    Within  the  period  cited,  the  increase  of  this 
trade  in  the  Canadas  only  was  much  more  than  equivalent  to  the 
total  consumption  of  the  West-India  islands,  estimated  at  142,000 
tons,  which  is  but  little  less  than  half  the  quantity  annually  requi- 
red for  the  use  of  the  royal  navy.    The  export  of  timber  in  this 
year,  is,  perhaps,  the  greatest  of  any  that  has  taken  place,  yet  the 
ease  with  which  it  was  procured  is  certainly  an  argument  that 
weighs  strongly  against  the  assertion,  that  the  North  American 
colonies  are  unable  to  supply  the  necessities  of  the  West-Indies. 
"  With  respect  to  the  exportation  of  flour  and  grain,,  the  pro* 


fc&EXDA  NO.  I.] 


BOUCHETTE's  CANADA. 


xxV 


■gress-  is  not  certainly  so  satisfactory  as  that  of  timber;*  yet  this 
circumstance  is  far  from  being  conclusive  of  inability  to  furnish 
such  quantities  as  are  required  for  the  use  of  the  West-India  isl- 
ands, whose  annual  demand  for  flour,  grain,  and  biscuit,  is  com- 
puted at  something  more  than  1,200,000  bushels.  Of  this  quan- 
tity, Canada  has  hitherto  seldom  exported,  upon  an  average,  but 
little  more  than  a  third  part.  So  great  a  disparity  of  numbers,  is 
not  a  sufficient  reason  to  abandon,  without  some  further  reflec- 
tion, the  supposition,  that  the  supply  may  be  made  to  equal  the 
demand.  Immediately,  indeed,  it  could  not;  but  after  the  lapse 
of  a  very  few  years,  may  not  so  desirable  an  object  be  obtained, 
when  the  £ood  effects  of  an  improved  system  of  agricultural 
management,  and  to  the  encouragement  of  which  the  most  rigid 
attention  ought  to  be  paid,  begin  to -show  themselves,  combined 
with  such  measures  as  would  make  it  the  interest  of  the  people  of 
the  well  cultivated  countries  of  the  United  States  that  lie  contigu- 
ous to  our  frontier,  to  bring  their  disposable  produce  to  the  ports 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  ?  The  foundation  of  these  advantages  would 
certainly  be  laid,  were  the  colonial  merchants  placed  in  a  situa- 
tion to  contend  against  those  of  America,  in  supplying  the  islr 
ands.  Until  the  commencement  of  hostilities  with  us,  the  latter 
enjoyed  the  profits  of  supplying  our  West-Indian  possessions, 
both  with  provisions  and  lumber,  and  which  were,  in  fact,  secured 
to  them  by  an  act  that  passed  the  British  parliament,  in  1807, 
whereby  the  privy  council  was  authorised  to  suspend  the  opera- 
tions of  the  Act  1 2th  Charles  the  Second,  excluding  foreign  ships 
from  trading  with  the  English  colonies*  Under  favor  of  this  suspen- 
sion,they  employed  an  immense  number  of  ships  in  thistrade,every 
ton  of  which  was  a  manifest  detriment  both  to  our  provinces  and 

*  When  in  Canada,  several  judicious  persons  resident  in  that 
country,  expressed  to  me  their  opinion,  that  the  lumber  trade  was 
the  greatest  existing  impediment  to  the  prosperity  and  improve- 
ment of  the  people,  as  it  employed  their  active  able  bodied  labor- 
ing men  in  that  part  of  the  year  that  ought  to  be  appropriated  to 
agriculture.  There  is  little  doubt,  but  that  timber  trade  is  a  very 
nnproductive  branch  of  commerce,  and  that  a  country  must  re- 
main at  least  in  a  dependant  and  precarious  condition,  where 
much  attention  is  paid  to  an  application  of  industry,  where  the 
profits  are  so  small  compared  with  the  necessary  exertion  and 
^consumption  of  time. 


xxvi 


BOt.eHETTE*S  CANADA. 


[addenda  no.  %. 


our  commercial  navy.  The  admission  of  American  produce  into 
the  ports  of  Great  Britain,  upon  paying  the  same  duties  only  as 
are  charged  upon  the  importation  of  similar  articles  from  our 
own  colonies,  is  another  very  powerful  check  upon  their  prospe- 
rity, which  from  these  various  combinations  against  it,  will  expe- 
rience much  difficulty  in  rising  to  the  eminence  it  would  speedily 
attain,  if  that  country,  so  recently  ceased  to  be  an  inveterate 
enemy,  be  not  again  placed  by  the  liberality  of  the  British  go- 
vernment in  a  situation  to  impede  its  progress,  and  be  hereafter 
viewed  in  the  same  light,  and  put  upon  a  par  with  other  foreign 
nations,  in  respect  to  restrictions  and  countervailing  duties  ;  then 
the  North  American  provinces  will  soon  greatly  improve  their  in- 
ternal situation,  and  the  mother  country  derive  such  benefit 
from  tbem  as  will  render  Imr  more  independent  of  other  nations 
for  supplies  of  the  first  importance,  than  she  has  hitherto  been/' 

[Topographical  Description  of  the  Province  of  Loit  er  Canada, 
with  remarks  upon  Upper  Canada.  Fij  Joseph  f$awU%T$%9 
Esq,     London,  1815,    Page  57—85.] 


ASBENDA  NO.  II. j  GENERAL  REMAK$$,  tfXVii 


NO.  1L 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

THE  foregoing  correspondence  and  extracts,  contains  th$ 
substance  of  my  own  personal  observations,  and  such  explanato* 
ry  matter  from  others,  as  I  could  collect  during  my  tour,  and 
since  its  termination  ;  I  cannot,  however,  take  leave  of  the  read- 
er, without  claiming  his  patience  during  a  recapitulation;  and  an 
examination  of  some  extraneous  matter,  which  was  not  included 
in  my  original  letters,  though  of  some  importance  to  elucidate  the 
topography  of  the  country  over  which  I  ranged.  I  am  aware 
that  such  productions  as  mine,  where  few  personal  incidents  are 
introduced,  must  draw  their  interest  from  the  geographical  in- 
formation  they  may  contain.  It  has  been  my  endeavor  to  throw 
as  much  Yight  as  in  my  power,  upon  the  natural  structure,  and 
present  improvements  of  the  tract  over  which  I  ranged;  how  far 
I  have  succeeded,  is  now  before  the  reader.  There  is  one  object 
of  general  interest,  upon  which  more  is  perhaps  expected  from 
me  than  I  can  fulfil  ;  that  is,  the  Grand  Canal  now  in  progress  in 
the  state  of  New- York.  On  the  subject  of  this  truly  great  work, 
I  have  been  careful  to  collect  all  the  information  I  could  procure, 
and  have  now  presented  the  result  to  the  public.  Not  having  vi- 
sited Ballston  or  Saratoga  Springs,  I  addressed  a  letter  to  the  Rev. 
Reuben  Sears,  desiring  that  gentleman  to  give  me  such  informa- 
tion as  he  possessed,  respecting  these  places  of  public  resort.  Mr^ 
Sears  very  politely  and  satisfactorily  replied  to  my  letter  ;  his  an- 
swer I  have  annexed  to  this  Addenda,  confident  that  it  contains 
much  valuable  statistical  matter. 

In  my  letter  to  Mr.  C.  G.  Haines,  I  have  explained  my  views 
of  the  connexions  that  nature  seems  to  have  designed  between 
New-York  and  Pennsylvania,  and  can  add  but  little  in  this  place 
to  what  I  then  stated.  From  the  demonstrations  I  have  given  of 
the  true  respective  levels,  between  the  head  waters  of  the  branch- 
es of  Ohio  river  and  those  which  flow  into  lake  Erie,  the  forma- 


GENERAL  REMARKS* 


[Addenda  no.  if* 


tion  of  water  communication  between  these  streams  must  be  attend- 
ed wit!)  great  difficulty.  We  will  now  proceed  to  examine  some  of 
the  various  intended  channels  of  intercommunication  between  the 
Mississippi  and  St.  Lawrence  vallies,  and  also  the  routes  cf  the 
two  New- York  canals. 

No  doubt  now  remains,  but  that  the  Chicago  and  Illinois  rivers, 
afford  by  far  the  most  eligible  natural  connexion  between  the 
northern  and  southern  waters  of  the  United  States.  It  appears 
that  the  great  spine  running  from  the  Hudson  to  the  Maumee  li- 
ver, terminates  at,  or  is  interrupted  by  the  valley  of  the  Illinois*. 
The  latter  stream  is  formed  towards  its  source  by  two  branches,., 
one  of  which  rises  south  of  lake  Michigan,  and  the  other  (river 
Plein,)  rises  in  the  flat  country  west  of  the  Chicago,  and  flow  ing 
£outh,  unite  to  the  south-west  of  the  extreme  south  part  of  Mi- 
chigan. The  Chicago  heads  in  the  same  plain  with  the  river 
Plein,  and  winding  for  some  distance  parallel  to  the  latter  stream, 
thence  turns  east,  falls  into  lake  Michigan.  The  Chicago  and 
Plein  intermingle  their  sources,  and  afford  one  of  those  instances 
where  rivers  have  their  sources  in  plains,  so  nearly  approaching 
the  curve  of  a  real  sphere  as  to  leave  for  the  discharge  of  the 
waters  scarce  inclination  sufficient  to  determine  their  coarse^,, 
This  is  the  case  with  the  two  rivers  we  are  now  reviewing.  The 
precise  descent  of  the  Chicago,  from  its  nearest  approach  to  the 
Plein,  to  the  level  of  lake  Michigan  has  never  been  ascertained^ 
but  it  is  known  to  be  without  falls,  or  even  rapids.  The  Plein 
also  flows  with  a  very  slight  current,  and  the  two  streams  present 
almost  a  strait  between  the  Mississippi  river  and  lake  Michigan.* 

*  The  following  interesting  notice,  decides  the  long  contested 
problem  of  a  natural  water  communication  between  the  waters 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Mississippi  rivers,  and  contains  ais4> 
some  other  items  of  valuable  information. 

FROM  THE  ST.  LOUIS  ENQUIRER. 

Communication  itith  the  hikes.—  Messrs.  Graham  and  Phillips, 
commissioners  on  the  part  of  the  United  States,  and  Mr.  Suili- 
van,  surveyor,  have  set  out  to  lake  Michigan,  to  mark  the  hounda* 
ry  liu.es  of  the  lands  ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the  Ottawa, 
Chippewa,  a,nd  PoUov\a4i«33a  Indians  id  the  summer  of  the  year 


Aft&EfrcA  NO,  H.^ 


GENERAL  RtfMAItKS. 


XX!  k 


The  land  contiguous  to  this  important  pass,  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States,  hy  the  savage  tribes  who  formerly  possessed  the 
right  of  soil.  The  land  thus  ceded,  is  now  about  being  sur- 
veyed, and  in  course  will  ere  long  be  sold  to  individuals  and  set- 

"  They  will  run  a  line  from  the  southern  extremity  of  this  lake, 
to  the  Mississippi, 

"  The  Indians  have  ceded  to  the  United  States,  what  lies  to 
the  south  of  this  line. 

u  The  commissioners  will  run  two  other  lines  from  the  south- 
western part  of  lake  Michigan,  to  the  Illinois  river.  The  lines 
will  be  parallel  to  each  other,  and  twenty  miles  apart,  Tiiey  will 
begin  in  the  shore  of  the  lake,  at  points  ten  miles  north  and  south 
of  Chicago,  and  will  embrace  the  little  rivers  Chicago  and  Plein, 
and  the  carrying  place  between  them,  which  form  the  channel  of 
communication  between  lake  Michigan  and  the  Illinois  river, 
The  Indians  have  ceded  to  the  United  States,  this  important  pass, 
with  ten  miles  of  country  on  each  side  of  it,  and  it  is  the  busi- 
ness of  the  commissioners  to  mark  out  the  limits  of  the  gran  I, 
that  the  American  government  may  reduce  it  to  possession. 

"  The  communication  between  the  lake  and  the  Illinois,  is  a 
point  which  will  fix  the  attention  of  the  merchant  and  the  states-: 
man.  They  will  see  in  it  the  gate  which  is  to  open  the  northern 
seas  into  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  which  is  to  connect 
New- York  and  New-Orleans  by  a  water  line  which  the  combined 
navies  of  the  world  cannot  cut  off.  Never  did  the  work  of  na- 
ture require  so  little  from  the  hand  of  art,  to  complete  so  great  u 
design  ! 

"  The  lakes  Superior,  Huron,  Erie,  and  Ontario,  lie  from  west 
to  east,  in  the  direction  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  manifestly  seeking 
their  outlet  through  the  valley  of  that  river.  But  the  Michigan 
departs  from  that  direction  ;  she  lays  from  north  to  south.  Uni- 
ted to  the  other  lakes  by  a  strait,  she  stretches  the  body  of  her 
water  down  towards  the  head  of  the  Illinois  river,  as  if  intending 
to  discharge  .herself  through  that  channel  into  the  Mississippi. 
And  no  hills  or  mountains  intervene  to  prevent  the  conjunction; 
o;i  the  contrary,  the  ground  between  is  flat,  and  covered  with 
ponds  in  wet  weather,  which  turn  their  waters  partly  to  the  lake 
and  partly  to  the  river.  The  Chicago  ami  the  Plein  are  the 
drains  from  these  ponds  ;  they  have  neither  falls  nor  shoals  :  they 
have  not  the  character  of  streams,  but  of  canals;  the  water 
fyardly  moves  in  their  deep  and  narrow  channels.  The  Illinois 
itself  is  more  a  canal  than  a  river,  having  hardly  current  enough 
to  bend  the  lofty  grass  which  grows  in  its  bed.  The  French  of 
Canada  and  of  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  have  communicated 
through  tbis  channel  since  the  settlement  of  the  countries.  In 
high  water,  boats  often  or  a  dozen  tons,  pass  without- obstruct 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


[ADDENDA  NO.  II. 


tied.  The  developement  of  the  natural  resources  of  this  region, 
will  be  disclosed  with  the  ordinary  celerity,  that  marks  the  newly 
established  settlements  in  our  western  world. 

The  course  of  lake  Michigan  contributes  in  some  measure  to 
diminish  the  natural  advantages  of  its  connexion  with  the  Illinois. 
The  mouth  of  the  Calumet  river,  or  southern  part  of  lake  Mi- 
chigan, is  near  N.  lat.  42  ;  whilst  the  straits  of  Michilimakinac 
is  about  45°,  40',  making  a  difference  of  latitude  of  3°,  40'.  This 
difference  of  geographical  position  exposes  the  two  extremes  of 
lake  Michigan  to  great  variety  of  climate;  the  navigation  of  the 
northern  part  being  annually,  and  of  the  southern  frequently  im- 
peded by  ice.  J  have  annexed  to  this  Addenda,  tables  which  wilt 
exhibit  the  relative  distance  from  the  city  of  New-York  to  Si. 
Louis  by  the  Canadian  lakes  and  by  the  Ohio  river.  These 
routes,  however,  are  so  different  from  each  other*  in  climate,  fa- 
cilities, and  in) pediment,  that  very  little  accurate  induction  can 
be  drawn  from  their  respective  length  to  determine  a  preference. 

It  can  scarce  be  doubted,  but  that  beyond  Buffalo,  when  the 
contiguous  countries  are  equally  inhabited,  the  Illinois  river  and 
Canadian  lakes  will  form  the  channel  of  communication  with  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  in  preference  to  the  route  by 
the  Ohio.  The  navigation  of  the  latter  river  is  subject  to  great 
embarrassment  from  frost,  and  long  dry  weather  in  the  fall  sea- 
sou.  So  much  of  the  norUiera  channel  of  commerce  permits 
the  use  of  vessels  of  considerable  tonnage,  that  transportation 
from  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  will  be  less  expensive  than  that  of  any 
equal  distance  by  the  Ohio  route.  If  the  people  of  the  United 
States  ought  to  ever  unite,  in  opening  any  channel  of  communi- 

tirvn-  In  the  dry  season,  they  are  unloaded,  placed  on  vehicles, 
and'  drawn  by  oxen  over  a  portage  of  a  few  miles,  and  launched 
into  the  liver  or  lake,  as  the  course  of  the  voyage  may  require. 
Hundreds,  nay  thousands  of  boats  have  been  seen  at  St  Louis, 
wltich  had  made  a  similar  passage. 

u  It  may  be  hoped  that  the  government  will  not  limit  \\seK  to 
lite  barren  work  of  marking  the  lines  about  this  portage.  While 
Ute.state  of  New-York  opens  a  canal  of  three  hundred  miles,  the 
federal  government  should  not  be  appalled  at  undertaking  one  of 
three  hundred  rods.  It  might  Le  dug  in  the  time  that  a  long- 
winded  member  of  Congress  would  make  a  speech  against  its- 
'•oustitutior.ality," 


ADDENDA  NO.  II. j 


GENERAL  REMARKS., 


XXX  J 


cation,  it  is  that  by  the  Illinois  river  and  lake  Michigan.  If  the 
various  points,  from  St.  Louis  to  Buffalo,  were  united  by  commer- 
cial facility,  a  numerous  population  would  he  the  immediate  con- 
sequence, a  population  that  would  spread  a  shield  before  the  in- 
terior parts  of  our  country,  and  vould  give  a  preponderance  up- 
on ihe  St.  Lawrence  waters,  to  the  people  of  the  United  States, 
which  in  future  wars  would  prevent  a  repitition  of  some  of  the 
disastrous  events  of  the  late  contest  with  Great  Britain. 

With  the  particular  features  of  the  country  around  lake  Mi- 
chigan, I  am  unacquainted,  but  from  all  the  scattered  information 
I  have  been  able  to  procure,  I  am  induced  to  believe  that  the 
shores  of  lakes  Erie  and  Michigan  are  in  a  great  part  similar,  and 
if  such  is  the  fact,  the  latter  is  environed  with  shores  possessing 
all  the  attributes  necessary  to  permit  a  dense  and  nourishing  set- 
tlement. That  part  of  the  Michigan  peninsula,  projecting  along 
the  south-west  side  of  lake  jlur^m,  is  equal  in  soil  to  any  other  ter- 
ritory of  so  great  extent  in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  or  perhaps  in 
any  country.  From  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  is  a  distance,  following 
the  inflections  of  the  -shores,  of  850  miles  \  and  including  the 
western  and  northern  banks  of  lake  Michigan,  of  1,200  miles.  If 
we  allow  only  the  extension  of  20  miles  from  the  margin  of  the 
lakes  for  settlement,  we  have  a  fine  border  containing  24,'QCO 
square  miles;  to  which  if  we  add  an  equal  width  along  the  Chi- 
cago, Illinois,  and  Mississippi  rivers,  to  St.  Louis,  400  miles  in 
length,  the  aggregate  will  produce  an  entire  surface  of  32,000 
square  miles,  or  19,480,ooo  acres ;  and  at  the  very  thin  popula- 
tion of  50  persons  to  the  square  aide,  would  contain  1,600,000 
people.  That  the  soil  of  this  tract  is  capable  of  supporting  more 
than  four  times  the  supposed  number  I  have  no  doubt,  and  that  in 
ihe  lapse  of  less  than  thirty  years  from  this  time,  it  will  contain 
more  than  one  million  and  a  half  of  persons  I  have  as  little 
doubt  Before  the  middle  of  the  current  century,  if  no  catastro- 
phe occurs  to  disturb  the  present  course  of  events,  there  will  ex- 
ist, between  the  city  of  New- York  and  St.  Louis,  within  less  than, 
fifty  miles  of  the  line  we  are  now  examining,  more  than  five  mil- 
Hons  of  people,  or  about  one  half  as  many  as  are  now  in  the  whole 
United  States.  This  may  perhaps  excite  a  suspicion  of  visiona- 
ry views  in  the  writer,  but  some  statistical  facts  may  render  the 
i!^c;pation  at  least  probable.    It  may  be  doubted;  whether  there 


xxxii 


General  remarks. 


[agenda  no.  ill 


is  now  under  cultivation  in  the  United  States,  as  much  productive 
soil  as  is  contained  upon  the  surface  under  review.  If  a  pair  of 
compasses  is  supposed  to  be  set  down  in  the  city  of  Philadelphia, 
and  extended  to  100  miles  radius,  the  sweep  will  include  a  surface 
of  about  20,000  square  miles  of  solid  laud,  and  more  than  one 
million  and  a  half  of  people,  or  nearly  a  sixth  part  of  the  entire 
population  of  the  United  States.  Jf  20,000  square  miles  is  Assum- 
ed as  the  land  included  in  the  radii  of  100  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia, and  1, 500,000  as  the  population,  then  this  surface  must 
iiave  an  average  population  of  75  to  the  square  mile,  out  of 
which  300,000  iflay  be  supposed  to  inhabit  the  cities  of  New- 
York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  other  towns.  No  person  ac- 
quainted with  the  comparative  regions,  would  hazard  the  asser- 
tion, that  20,000  square  miles  around  Philadelphia,  is  equal  in  re- 
spect to  soil,  to  an  equal  surface  along  the  Mohawk,  in  west  New- 
York,  along  the  south  side  of  lake  Eric,  in  the  Michigan  penin- 
sula, and  upon  the  Illinois  river;  the  fact  is,  that  compared  to 
each  other,  a  decided  preference  is  due  to  the  latter  over  the  for- 
mer section,  in  the  quality  of  the  soil,  and  in  general  commercial 
advantages  j  all  things  considered,  they  are  nearly  equal.  Many 
counties  in  the  western  states  have  already  a  population  of  more 
than  50  to  the  square  mile,  upon  soil  much  less  adapted  to  agri- 
culture, manufactures,  or  commerce,  than  the  north-western 
range  from  the  city  of  New- York  to  St.  Louis. 

The  route  by  lake  Eric,  Maumee,  and  Wabash,  is  in  point  of 
oourse,  the  most  direct  line  of  communication  from  the  Canadi- 
an sea,  to  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers but  subject  to  some 
inconveniences  not  found  by  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  passage. 
Though  not  impeded  by  either  falls  or  cataracts,  the  Wabash  is  a 
rapid  stream,  and  for  ascending  navigation  difficult;  this  stream 
is  however  navigable  to  very  near  its  source,  and  waters  a  body 
of  very  excellent  land.  Maumee  river  has  its  sources  on  the  same 
table  land  with  those  of  the  Wabash,  and  flowing  to  the  north- 
east falls  into  lake  Erie.  The  navigation  of  the  latter  river  is 
obstructed  by  falls  near  its  discharge  into  Maumee  bay,  or  the 
extreme  south-western  curve  of  lake  Erie.  The  country  water- 
ed by  the  Maumee  river  is  generally  fertile  and  well  adapted  to 
the  production  of  small  grain.  The  Indian  title  being  now  ex- 
tinct to  considerable  tracts  on  that  river,  settlement  by  a  white 


AGENDA,  NC.  II A 


population  will  speedily  ensue.  The  route  by  the  Maumeeand 
Wabash  may  be  made  useful  to  a  large  community  on  the  banks 
of  those  streams,  though  as  a  channel  of  active  intercourse  be- 
tween the  Atlantic  coast  and  the  Mississippi  valley,  the  northern 
route  will  be  preferred. 

Another  route  presents  itself,  which  has  been  hitherto  in  great 
p  'looked;  that  is,  by  the  Huron  of  lake  Erie,  or  river 

Raisin,  with  streams  falling  into  the  south-east  extremity  of  lake 
Michigaar,  From  the  narrowness  of  the  table  land  of  the  Mi- 
chigan peninsula,  and  from  the  great  saving  of  distance  by 
Michilimachinac,  no  doubt  but  that  this  former  route  will,  at  some 
future  period,  be  found  of  great  national  utility,  particularly  in 
winter. 

A  projected  union  of  Sandusky  with  the  Sciota  river,  has  been 
long  conceived  ;  of  either  the  facility  of  execution,  or  benefits  if 
completed,  of  this  design  I  am  unable  to  speak  with  certainty. 

Viewing  a  map  of  the  respective  places,  the  most  obvious  con- 
nexion between  (fie  western  parts  of  lake  Erie,  and  the  Ohio  val- 
ley is  by  the  Muskingum  and  Cayahoga  rivers.  If  a  canal  or 
good  turnpike  road  united  these  latter  streams,  the  benefits  would 
be  immediate  and  certain.  I  find  this  subject  has  met  the  atten- 
tion of  the  people  of  the  state  of  Ohio  ;  and  if  the  statistical  part 
of  the  follow  ing  extract  is  correct,  can  be  effected  with  great  case.- 

"  Cleaveland,  Nov.  1 7. 
ff  Contemplated  canal— We  have  conversed  with  gentlemen  resit? 
ing  on  the  river  Tuscarawas,  (a  branch  of  Muskingum  river)  who 
informs  us,  that  boats  could  be  constructed  so  as  to  carry  300 
barrels  of  flour  up  and  down  the  river  to  a  portage  of  eight  miles 
to  the  Cayahoga  river — a  navigable  stream  for  boats  of  all  sizes- 
during  the  summer  months,  and  as  branches  from  both  streams 
head  in  a  large  pond,  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to  cut  a  canal, 
so  as  to  unite  those  streams,  and  thereby  secure  to  ourselves  the 
trade  of  the  Ohio  river,  and  the  vast  and  fertile  country  on  the 
banks  of  the  Muskingum.  We  would  invite  the  attention  of  the 
state  legislature  to  this  important  object,  inasmuch  as  it  would  be 
a  source  of  inexhaustible  wealth  to  the  state,  and  unite  the  inte- 
rest of  the  south,  with  that  of  the  more  northern  sections  of  our 
country. 

"  As  the  great  western  canal,  unking  lake  Erie  with  the  Hud* 


XXXrV  GENERAL  tffcSlARKS.  £A0D£iNDA  U, 

son  rivci",  is  hi  a  stale  of  forwardness,  and  will  in  two  or  three 
years  be  completed,  at  once  opening  an  uninterrupted  com  muni- 
cation  between  lake  Erie  and  the  city  of  New* York.  The  mer-* 
chant  can  have  his  goods  brought  on  for  a  trifle,  and  in  return  can 
transmit  the  .surplus  products  of  our  country  to  a  sure  market. 
This  single  circumstance,  is  amply  sufficient  to  induce  the  legist 
Mature  of  Ohio  to  follow  the  example  of  their  brethren  in  the  east, 
and  cut  a  canal  of  only  eight  miles,  to  bring  the  products  from  the 
fertile  banks  of  the  Ohio,  through  lake  Erie  to  the  city  of  New- 
York.  If  the  state  legislature,  and  heads  of  department  are  not 
b'ind  to  the  interest  of  the  state,  they  will  not  let  the  present  ses- 
sion pass,  without  al  least  preparing  to  put  this  important  work 
into  execution. " 

This  well  written  article  deserves  a  more  permanent  record 
than  the  columns  of  a  newspuper,  I  have  embodied  it  into  my 
addenda,  as  it  may  tend  at  least  to  stimulate  enquiry  into  an  im- 
portant point  of  our  geography  and  national  policy. 

From  Cleveland  to  Buffalo*,  except  by  good  roads,  the  inter- 
course will  be  difficult  between  the  people  who  inhabit  the  shoies 
of  the  Canadian  sea,  and  those  of  the  Ohio  valley. 

We  now  approach  the  most  important  part  of  our  enquiry,  tire 
Primum  Mobile,  of  nearly  all  the  exertion  that  will  be  made  to 
give  effect  to  any  of  the  preceding  improvements.  The  Grand 
Canal  of  the  state  of  New-York  ;  a  work  that  has  arrested  less 
attention  than  the  creation  of  new,  or  the  delinquency  of  old 
banks  ;  and  yet  a  work  that  is  destined  to  produce  more  lasting 
impressions  upon  our  external  and  internal  policy,  than  any  un- 
dertaking since  the  formation  of  the  federal  constitution.  Noth- 
ing can  be  more  narrow,  more  selfish,  more  puerile,  or  more  un- 
founded, than  the  supposition  that  the  slate  of  New-Yrork,  as  she 
is  only  to  be  benefitted,  ought  to  bear  the  expense  of  this  great 
project.  In  fact,  when  coihpleted,  the  state  of  New-York,  in 
proportion  to  her  extent  and  population,  will  gain  less  from  the 
usufruct  of  the  Canal,  than  a  part  of  Pennsylvania,  the  northern 
part  of  the  state  of  Ohio,  ail  the  Territory  of  Michigan,  all  the  vast 
region  Ixeoynd,  to  the  sources  of  lakes  Superior  and  Michigan  and 
all  Upper  Canada  above  the  chute  of  Niagara.  Without  such  a 
channel  to  the  Atlantic  coast,  remote  and  detached  masses  of 
population  will  be  either  forced  to  form  their  commercial  con- 


A*DDEXDA  NX).  TI.] 


GENE HAL  REMARKS*. 


n,ex ions  with  Montreal,  or  remain  in  a  state  of  inactivity.  This 
is  exactly  the  case  at  the  present  moment.  The  man  who  con- 
founds the  subject  of  the  Canal  with  local  or  personal  politics, 
lias  very  little  sejrse  of  or  respect  for  his  own  future  fame  j'  and 
such  a  mistake  will  be  of  more  injury  to  those  who  commit  it,- 
than  to  the  execution  of  the  design.  It  will  leave  the  imprint  of 
its  patrons  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  an  imprint  that  will  remain 
centuries  after  the  names  of  those  who  are  now  only  rendered 
remarkable  by  office,  will  have  passed  to  the  deep  silence  of 
oblivion. 

If  a  river  flowed  from  Buffalo  to  Albany,  with  a  slow  and  gen- 
tle current,  unobstructed  by  rapids  or  shoals,  with  four  feet  water, 
nature  would  then  have  done  for  interior  North  America,  onlv 
what  the  Canal  is  calculated  to  perform.  To  oppose  or  thwart 
such  a  work,  from  motives  of  rival  politics,  is,  to  say  the  least, 
unwise,  inexcusable  in  an  individual  however  obscure  ;  hut  in 
those  whose  decisions  have  a  higher  authority,  pernicious.  Eve- 
ry road,  bridge,  or  canal  that  is  formed,  of  however  small  ex- 
tent, contributes  to  unite  society,  to  promote  social  and  moral 
intercourse,  and  to  render  men  more  liberal  and  more  happy. 
The  man  who  gives  his  mite  to  accelerate  the  formation  of  such 
works,  does  a  lasting  good  to  his  species.  To  obtain  a  high  rank 
amongst  mankind  ;  to  become  at  once  the  envy  of  rivals,  and 
admiration  of  friends,  is  the  lot  of  few  men  ;  hut  to  contribute 
to  national  prosperity  by  aiding  designs  of  public  utility,  is  within 
the  reach  of  all  men.  And  it  is  now  a  time  to  pause,  and  re- 
flect whether  the  resources  of  the  United  States  can  not  be  more 
advantageously  employed  in  internal  improvement  than  in  for- 
eign commerce.  If  this  hour  of  r  eflection  is  neglected,  posterity, 
whilst  suffering  the  evils,  may  execrate  the  folly  of  the  present 
generation. 

We  will  now  take  a  cursory  survey  of  the  intended  route  of  the 
canal,  and  without  waiting  for  petty  details,  rabidly  glance  over 
the  facilities  offered  by  nature,  or  impediments  opposed  to  its 
execution. 

The  Canal  leaves  Buffalo,  thence  follows  the  shore  of  Niagara 
strait  to  the  mouth  of  Tonnewanta  creek,  turns  up  tire  bed  of 
that  stream  to  where  the  level  of  lake  Erie  terminates,  then 
leaves  the  Tonnewanta  upon  lake  Erie  leveL  which  it  follows  t6 


:&xvi 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


[addenda  m.tt> 


the  brow  of  Ontario  heights.  The  Canal  then  assumes  its  great 
eastern  direction  towards  Rome  ;  follows  the  Ontario  heights 
through  the  sources  of  Eighteen  Mile  creek.  Oak  Orchard  creeky 
Sandy  creek,  and  some  smaller  streams  to  Genesee,  which  latter 
)  iver  the  canal  will  pass  by  a  dam,  or  on  an  aqueduct  bridge,  and 
winding  thence  over  the  heads  of  Irondequot  creek,  enters  the 
sources  of  Seneca  river  by  Mud  creek.  The  Canal  then  follows 
the  channel  of  Mud  creek  to  the  outlet  of  Canandaigua  lake,  and 
also  down  the  united  stream  to  its  junction  with  the  outlets  of 
Seneca  and  Cayuga  lakes.  The  latter  point  is  the  extreme  de- 
pression of  land  between  Rome  and  Buffalo,  and  thus  far  may  the 
waters  of  lake  Erie  be  made  subservient  to  the  Canal,  if  neces- 
sary. So  many  feeders  flow  across  the  Canal  route,  that  a  su- 
perabundance of  water  is  to  be  found  in  all  its  length.  I  have 
here  noticed  the  northern  route,  which,  from  lake  Erie  at  the 
mouth  of  Buffalo  creek,  to  the  intersection  of  the  Canal  with 
Seneca  river,  is  99  miles.  The  commissioners  who  framed  the  re- 
port, under  the  law  of  the  state  of  New- York,  of  the  1 7th  of  April, 
181 6;  seem  to  have  preferred  the  southern  route,  but  for  reasons- 
not  sufficiently  explained  in  their  report.  The  two  routes  diverge 
from  each  other  at  the  point,  1  I  miles  up  the  Tonnewanta,  and 
again  unite  at  the  west  bank  of  Genesee  river.  The  northern 
route,  as  I  have  mentioned,  never  rises  above  the  lake  Erie  level, 
but  the  southern  route  rises  above  lake  Erie,  to  gain  the  summit 
level  near  Batavin,  nearly  75  feet  ;  a  descent  it  must  fall  in  ap- 
proaching Genesee  river,  together  with  the  difference  of  level  of 
that  stream  and  lake  Erie,  194  feet;  or  in  all,  from  the  Ba~ 
tavia  level  to  Genesee,  269  feet.  The  northern  route  avoids  any 
descent  between  lake  Erie  and  Genesee  river,  except  the  simple 
difference  of  level  between  these  waters,  and  is  exempt  from  any 
ascent  whatever,  above  the  lake  Erie  level.  The  northern  route 
must  also  possess  the  insuperable  advantage, of  a  much  greater* 
and  more  certain  supply  of  water. 

Neither  route  as  far  as  Seneca  river,  meets  any  very  serious 
impediments  from  natural  obstacles,  and  can  be  no  doubt  execu- 
ted within  the  estimates  made  by  the  commissioners. 

The  level  near  Rome  is  48.5  feet  higher  than  low  water  in  Sen- 
eca river;  the  intermediate  space  generally  a  rich  alluvion- 
Here  are  presented  some  of  the  most  curious  phenomena  oF 


ADDENDA  NO.  II.] 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


.North  America.  The  singular  adaptation  of  the  space  between 
Rome  and  Seneca  river  for  a  Canal,  is  described  in  the  following 
very  striking  manner  by  the  commissioners. 

"  The  exuberant  supply  of  water  for  the  canal,  in  this  section, 
must  be  at  once  perceived  from  an  inspection  of  the  topographi- 
cal map.  At  its  commencement,  the  waters  of  the  Mohawk  ri- 
ver will  be  used,  and  they  can  be  increased  to  any  extent,  by  in- 
troducing a  feeder  from  Fish  creek.  Independently  of  numerous 
small  brooks,  the  canal  can  derive  as  much  water  as  can  be  de- 
sired from  the  Oneida,  the  Gowaslon,  the  Canasaraga,  the  Chit- 
teningo,  the  Black,  the  Limestone,  the  Butternut,  the  Onondaga, 
the  Nine-mile,  the  Skeneateles,  the  Bread,  the  Cold-spring,  the 
Owasco,  and  the  Crane  creeks;  some  of  which  ar£  the  outlets  of 
lakes,  and  others  originate  from  perennial  springs  in  high  lands, 
and  will  never  be  affected  by  the  clearing  of  the  country. 

46  The  adaptation  of  the  grounds  of  this  section,  for  a  canal,  is 
peculiar  and  extraordinary.  After  proceeding  two  miles  and 
fourteen  chains,  it  will  be  necessary  to  descend  6  feet ;  after  which, 
the  line  of  the  canal  proceeds  41  1-2  miles  on  one  level.  A  de- 
scent of  19  feet  then  takes  place,  from  the  foot  of  which  another 
level  extends  30  miles.  For  the  remainder  of  the  distance  to  the 
Seneca  river,  there  are  three  departures  from  the  level — one  of  8^ 
one  of  9,  and  one  of  6  1-2  feet.  Thus  the  whole  extent  of  this 
section,  occupying  77  miles,  will  require  but  six  locks. 

u  In  many  places  inexhaustible  beds  of  gypsum  exist,  which  can, 
by  means  of  this  canal,  be  conveyed  cheaper  to  the  great  agricul- 
tural counties  of  the  state,  than  it  can  be  procured  by  importa- 
tion. And  nothing  is  more  easy  than,  by  a  short  lateral  canal  of 
i  1-2  miles  in  length,  to  form  a  communication  between  Salina 
and  the  great  canal,  thus  furnishing  fuel  to  the  works,  and  salt  tv 
the  whole  country.  A  level  has  been  carried  from  that  of  the  ca- 
nal, at  the  foot  of  the  two  locks  near  Onondaga  creek,  which 
would  require  no  greater  deptli  of  excavation  than  four  feet,  in 
any  place,  and  no  embankment,  culvert,  or  lock." 

Vide  Commissioner's  Report,  page  59. 
It  may  be  said  with  justice,  that  the  country  west  of  Utica,  is 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  formation  of  a  canal ;  and  if  no  farther, 
progress  should  ever  be  made  than  .uniting  together  by  a  water 
e®romuaication?  the  Mohawk  and  Seneca  rivers,  such  a  work 

T 


xxxv  iii 


oEN.ERAt  REMARKS. 


[ADDENDA  ?sO.  n 


ought  to  immortalize  its  projectors,  and  enrich  those  who  carry 
it  into  execution.  I  have  shown  that  the  Mohawk  river  near 
Kome,  at  high  water  divides  its  stream  and  discharges  water  to- 
wards the  Hudson  and  St.  Lawrence  rivers;  of  course  this  cir- 
cumstance renders  the  volume  of  the  Mohawk  subservient  as  a 
feeder  to  the  canal,  both  to  the  westward  and  eastward. 

When  writing  on  this  subject,,  the  idea  first  presented  itself  to 
my  mind,  that  through  either  the  Mohawk,  or  some  valley  to  the 
south-west  of  that  village,  once  flowed  the  St.  Lawrence  river 
Rome  is  only  188  feet  above  lake  Ontario;  aud  the  vallies  of  the 
Chitteningo,  perhaps  not  so  high  even  near  the  sources  of  that 
river. 

Every  step!  advance  in  the  inquiry  respecting  the  Grand  Ca- 
nal, I  am  the  more  impressed  with  the  belief  that  much  valuable 
information  would  be  gained  by  an  accurate  survey  of  the  inter- 
locking sources  of  the  Susquehanna  river  and  the  streams  flowing 
towards  Oneida  lake:  The  points  chosen,  Newton  creek  and  Se- 
neca lake,  to  unite  the  Susquehanna  river  to  the  confluent  waters 
of  the  Grand  Canal,  are  the  most  obvious,*  but  I  now  very  much 
doubt  their  being  the  only  points  of  contact,  where  very  useful 
improvements  could  be  made.  If  ever  lake  Ontario  was  18& 
feet  above  its  present  level,  then  was  its  waters  discharged,  either 
towards  the  Hudson  or  Susquehanna,  or  both.  The  ancient  fea- 
tures ^f  this  continent,  must  have  been  very  different  from  the 
present.  It  will  be  recollected,  that  the  difference  of  level  be- 
tween lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  is  334  feet;  therefore,  if  the  sur- 
face of  the^latter  was  again  elevated  188  feet,  its  level  would  stilt 
he  depressed  below  that  of  the  former  146  feet. 

No  person  of  ordinary  observation,  who  examines  the  shores 
of  lake  Ontario  or  the  banks  of  St.  Lawrence  river,  but  will  grant 
that  abundant  evidences  remain  to  attest  an  elevation  of  lake 
Ontario  of  more  than  two  hundred  feet  above  its  present  surface. 
Evidences  also  exist,  to  prove  that  the  recession  of  that  lake  was 
periodical.  The  chain  of  smaller  lakes  lying  west  of  Rome, 
north  of  the  dividing  ridge,  and  cast  of  Genesee  river,  were  once 
bays  of  Ontario.  It  is  very  certain,  that  the  space  between  the 
hills  north  of  Utica.  to  those  south  of  Skeneatcles  lake,  is  stiil  far 


*  See  page  136, 


ADDENDA  NO.  II.] 


$&NERiU*  RE1VUIVKS. 


XXXIX 


the  lowest  gorge  in  the  separating  ridge  that  exists  between  the 
Illinois  river  and  lake  Champlaiu;  and  admitting  the  ancient  ele- 
vation of  lake  Ontario  to  the  level  of  the  Mohawk  river  near 
Rome,  then  through  this  pass  once  flowed  the  St.  Lawrence  wa- 
ters. If  such  a  disposition  of  things  was  ever  the  case*  the  an- 
cient channel  remains,  and  will,  it  is  probable,  be  found  the  most 
eligible  channel  of  communication  that  nature  admits,  between 
the  waters  of  St..  Lawrence  and  Susquehanna  rivers. 

Happily  the  Grand  Canal  in  leaving  that  of  the  Mohawk,  pas<* 
ses  into  the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  by  this  apparently  ancient  chan- 
nel, and  has  received  from  nature  a  facility  in  effecting  its  execu- 
tion, that  no  where  else  exists  in  all  the  line  of  connexion  be- 
tween the  waters  flowing  towards  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  those 
which  enter  the  Ohio  valley.  The  Susquehanna  river  is  render- 
ed remarkable,  from  rising  north-west  of  the  Allegany  mountains, 
and  from  passing  that  entire  chain  in  its  course  to  the  Atlantic 
ocean.  The  foregoing  is  however  a  characteristic  which  the 
Hudson  participates  with  the  Susquehanna;  the  Mohawk  rises 
north-west  of  the  spine  of  the  Allegany,  and  also  passes  over  a 
part  of  that  chain,  in  its  way  to  the  Hudson,  which  latter  pierces, 
the  residue. 

After  joining  the  Mohawk  rjver  near  Rome,  it  is  intended  to 
follow  the  margin  of  that  river  with  the  canal,  keeping  the  south 
bank.    Except  at  the  Little*  and  Colmes  Falls,  no  impediment  0f 

"  New- York,  Oot.  28,  1818. 
*"  Internal  Trade. — The  following  is  an  extract  of  a  letter, 
addressed  to  the  Editor,  from  a  gentleman  at  the  westward,  whose 
intelligence  and  opportunities  are  such  as  to  give  confidence  to 
his  statements. 

'  F rom  the  Company's  books  at  the  Little  Falls,!  find  that  the 
.number  of  tons  of  merchandise  and  produce,  transported  in  boat$ 
through  the  locks  at  that  place,  during  the  year  18  17,  is  three 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  thirty-Jive,  From  our  limited  trade, 
for  the  want  of  an  uninterrupted  water  communication  with  th© 
western  part  of  the  state,  &c.  I  estimate  the  price  of  transporta- 
tion per  ton  at  $60-- -which  will  make  an  aggregate  of  $224,  iQQ 
per  annum. 

'  The  receipts  at  those  locks  only,  for  the  last  year,  were  about 
$10,000 — and  this  year  they  will  amount  to  about  $12,000. 

*  There  may  be  a  distinct  branch  of  commerce  between  Utica 
and  lake  Ontario*  &r.  through  Wood  creek — but^of  this  I  have 

lio  account. 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


[ADDENDA  NO.  U, 


any  consequence  exists  in  the  distance  between  Rome  and  Alba- 
ny. Locks  already  exist  at  the  Little  Falls,  which  enable  the 
farmers  and  merchants  to  transport  their  produce  and  merchan- 
dise, by  water  from  the  upper  Mohawk  to  Schenectady.  The 
note  at  the  bottom  of  this  page,  will  give  some  idea  of  the  present 

1  From  an  account  taken  for  the  purpose,  at  a  turnpike  gate 
above  the  Little  Falls,  (where  it  will  be  recollected  an  important 
road  diverges  to  the  north,)  I  calculate  the  number  of  two  and 
three-horse  waggons  employed  in  transportation,  (exclusive  of 
the  occasional  trips  of  farmers'  waggons,  and  of  those  removing 
families  and  furniture,)  to  be  290 — making  on  an  average  twelve 
trips  a  year,  and  carrying  both  ways  two  and  a  half  tons  each. 
As  the  loads  of  such  waggons  do  not  generally  go  so  far  west  as 
those  of  the  larger  waggons,  the  transportation  is  calculated  ai 
but  $30  per  ton— amounting  to  $180,000  per  annum. 

*  Of  five,  six,  and  seven-horse  waggons,  there  appears  to  be 
forty  employed,  carrying  on  an  average  six  tons,  both  ways,  and 
making  at  least  six  trips  (I  might  say  seven)  per  annum — their 
freight  at  $40  per  ton,  amounts  to  $57,600. 

*  For  transportation  by  boats,    -  $224,100 

do.  small  waggons,  -  180,000 

do.  large    -      -      ...  57,000 


Total,     $4  6?,  loo 

f  I  have  submitted  these  statements  to  men  who  are  competent 
to  decide,  and  they  pronounce  them  rather  low  than  otherwise. 
The  price  of  freight  is  lower  than  the  estimate  of  Sidney  ;  but  I 
have  reason  to  believe  it  is  nearly  correct,  as  a  very  large  propor- 
tion is  started  and  landed  short  of  Buffalo ;  and  produce  is 
brought  to,  much  cheaper  than  merchandise  is  carried  from  Al- 
bany. 

6  It  will  be  observed,  that  nearly  half  a  million  is  now  paid  for 
transportation  annually,  from  above  the  Little  Fails,  and  the 
Black  river  roads,  of  course  on  one  side  only  of  the  Mohawk,' and 
upon  the  river  itself— send  that  the  transportation  has  increased 
at  least  one  sixth,  since  last  winter,  upon  the  river.  What  would 
the  people  sav  to  a  saving  of  but  half  of  the  above  expense? 
What  would  they  say  if  that  saving  was  doubled,  by  adding  to  llrt? 
account  the  thousands  of  loads  yearly  transported  by  the  farmers 
themselves?  And  what  would  they  not  say,  could  they  foresee 
the  immense  quantities  of  produce  and  merchandise  which  must 
necessarily  pass  this  great  thoroughfare  to  and  from  the  western 
world,  whenever  the  canal  is  opened  ? 

c  But  I  must  not  indulge  fancy,  when  lam  restricted  by  a  want 
of  both  time  and  capacity  to  do  any  thing  like  justice  to  my  sub- 
ject. I  have  collected  a  few  facts,  which  are  at  your  disposal,  if 
they  are  wox\h  preserving."  ? — Columbian. 


ADDENDA  NO.  I  I.J  GENERAL  REMARKS..  xU 

quantity  and  value  of  produce,  which  is  transported  through  the 
locks  at  the  Little  Falls.  It  will  be  recollected,  however,  that  if 
agriculture  and  commerce  make  roads  and  canals,  roads  and 
canals  re-act,  and  in  their  turn  augment  agriculture  and  com- 
merce. Therefore,  no  estimate  made  as  things  are  now  situated, 
can  give  an  adequate  conception  of  the  trade  of  the  Mohawk,  if 
that  stream  was  connected  with  Seneca  river  and  lake  Erie. 

The  middle  section  of  the  canal,  >s  the  only  part  which  is  yet 
in  progress,  and  is  now  so  far  advanced,  as  to  render  it  probable, 
that  in  the  ensuing  year,  the  communication  with  the  Seneca  will 
be  completed,  and  the  middle  and  eastern  parts  of  the  state  uni- 
ted, which  alone  would  be  of  incalculable  gain  to  the  state. 
"  The  middle  section  of  this  canal,"  says  the  Utica  Gazette* 
is  in  nearly  as  great  forwardness  as  that  of  the  northern,  and  it 
Is  expected  that  it  will  be  completed  before  the  close  of  another 
season.  This  section  extends  from  Utica  to  Seneca  river,  a  dis- 
tance of  nearly  90  miles,  and  in  its  whole  course  has  but  one  set 
of  locks,- and  those  at  Salina,  60  miles  west  of  Utica." 

Writing  upon  the  subject  of  the  canal,  I  proceeded  rather  as  a 
statist  than  an  engineer;  without  attending  to  the  minor  details, 
my  endeavor  has  been  to  develope  the  general  features  of  the 
country  through  which  this  work  is  intended  to  pass,  and  rather 
to  show  its  practicability  and  usefulness,  than  the  ordinary  means 
to  effect  its  execution. 

For  further  information  respecting  this  project,  I  must  refer  to 
the  following  documents. 
Memorial  to  the  New- York  Legislature,  when  the  Western  Ca- 
nal was  first  projected."    Written  by  De  Witt  Clinton. 
u,  Reports  of  Canal  Commissioners." 

u  Memorial  to 1  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  to  solicit  aid 
in  making  the  Grand  Canal." 

u  Considerations  on  the  Great  Western  and  Northern  Canals,  in- 
cluding a  view  of  the  expense,  progress,  and  advantages.™ 
Written  under  the  direction  of  the  New- York  Correspondkig 
Association  for  Promotion  of  Internal  Improvements.  By 
Charles  G.  Haines. 

This  latter  work,  perhaps  more  than  any  other  that  has  ap- 
peared, gives  a  luminous  expose  of  the  canal  and  its  certain  be-» 
jnefits  to  the  nation,  as  well  as  state  of  New- York :  and  ought  to' 

T2 


}ye  read  impartially  by  every  man  who  desires  1o  think,  speak,  or 
judge  correctly  on  the  important  subject  upon  which  it  treats  I 
did  not  visit  the  region  in  which  runs  the  Northern  Canal  between 
the  Hudson  river  and  lake  Champlain,  therefore  cannot  include 
any  details  respecting  that  undertaking  in  this  treatise. 

Among  the  many  benefits  that  the  people  of  t  he  interior  of  the 
state  of  New- York,  will  derive  from  a  water  communication  with 
the  Canadian  sea,  one  of  the  greatest  lias  hardly  been  noticed,— 
the  lake  fisheries,  which  may  be  extended  to  any  possible  demand* 
These  fisheries  have  been  hitherto  in  some  measure  checked  by 
Me  dearness  and  difficulty  of  procuring  salt.  This  inconveni- 
ence will  be  remedied  by  the  canal,  and  the  natural  streams  with- 
which  it  will  be  connected. 

"  Lake  Fisheries. — We  cannot  sufficiently  appreciate  tire  good- 
ness of  Providence,  for  the  peculiar  bestowment  of  his  favors  015 
the  people  of  this  state.  The  sources  of  New-York  yet  only 
dawn  upon  us. — Heaven  has  placed  an  exclusive  supply  of  salt 
In  the  heart  of  the  state,  and  this  necessary  article  is  dispensed 
Tor  one  shilling  a  bushel,  where  the  transportation  alone,  if  im- 
ported, would  cost  twelve.  Not  only  are  the  inhabitants  of  the 
whole  interior  Of  the  state  provided  at  a  low  rate,  but  a  large  sur- 
plus is  yearly  exported.  The  current  season,  more  than  sixteen 
thousand  barrels  have  gone  through  lake  Ontario,  for  Pennsylva- 
nia and  Ohio.— Gyp'sntti  too,  in  quantity  equal  to  every  purpose 
nnd  beyond  consumption,  is  found  in  vast  beds  where  the  distance 
must,  but  for  the  bounty  of  the  "great  author  of  nature  have  deni- 
zed the  farmer  this  great  aid  in  agriculture.  These  sources  of 
wealth  and  convenience  have  been  frequently  described,  white 
the  no  legs  liberal  hand  of  Providence  in  furnishing  the  wants  of 
many  and  the  luxury  of  others,  by  means  of  the  fish  found  in  the 
lakes,  is  hardly  known  or  acknowledged.  The  reason  for  taking 
fish  is  just  closing — I  have  not  to  the  data  for  an  estimate  of  the 
yearly  product  of  this  lake,  but  have  ascertained  from  the  most 
correct  sources  the  following  to  be  the  quantity  and  species  of  fish 
taken  and  salted  this  season,  in  this  and  Chaumont  bays. 
"  Siscoes  or  lake  Herring,  4,000  barrels, 

selling  price  $7  per  barrel,  is  $2$,000 
"  White  fish,  }  ,200  bbls.  price  $9  is  '  10,800 

"  Salmon  Trout,  400  bbls.    "     14  is  5,600 

&  Total,  5,3600  bbls*     amount,  $44,10*1 


ADDENDA  NO.  II.]  GENERAL  REMARKS.  xiy| 

"  The  distance  comprised  is  less  than  twenty  miles,  and 
ihe  quantity  is  exclusive  of  the  abundance  distributed  fresli 
in  the  country,  contiguous  to  the  fishing  grounds.  From 
this  statement  some  opinion  may  be  formed  of  the  value^ 
importance,  and  extent  of  our  inland  fisheries.  Industry  and  la* 
bor  are  aione  wanting  to  share  this  bounty,  and  the  poor  are  ena- 
bled to  provide  a  resource  for  winter  with  but  little  expense.  To 
^ome  they  furnish  the  raeans  of  subsistence,  while  others  atadi^s- 
<ance  seek  them  as  a  luxury.  We  are  glad  to  have  it  in  our  pow- 
er to  state,  tivat  a  law  was  passed  by  the  late  assembly  to  regulate 
the  packing  of  lake  fish,  and  provides  for  the  appointment  of  in* 
specters,  who  have  branded  all  those  put  up  under  their  direction. ^ 

It  was  not  the  seasoti  for  fishing  when  I  was  upon  the  Canadi- 
an lakes,  lam  therefore  the  less  enabled  to  give  either  accurate  or 
extensive  information  upon  the  subject.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
contiguous  shores  consider  the  fish  of  the  lakes  as  a  very  serious 
part  of  their  nourishment.  The  lower  extremity  of  lake  Onta- 
rio, the  Bass  islands  in  lake  Erie,  and  the  Manatoulio  islands  in 
lake  H«ron,  are  gen erally  represented  as  affording  the  best  fishe- 
ries in  these  respective  lakes.  The  mouths  of  most  of  the  rivers 
also^bound  with  fish  of  various  kinds,  of  excellent  quality. 

This  article  might  indeed  be  extended  to  any  length.  The  re- 
sources of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley  are  so  numerous,  so  widely 
spread,  and]  I  might  add  until  lately,  so  little  appreciated,  that 
a  volume  might  be  written  to  exhibit  the  neglected  objects  with 
which  it  abounds,  and  that  may,  and  no  doubt  will  ere  long  be 
brought  into  use. 

I  shall  close  this  article  by  some  observations  upon  travel- 
ling through  the  St.  Lawrence  valley.  Viewed  in  the  light  of  a 
tour  of  pleasurable  amusement,  I  cannot  conceive  of  a  country 
where  more  could  be  enjoyed,  as  far  as  the  richest  objects  in  na- 
ture are  gratifying  to  our  taste.  From  the  city  of  New- York  to 
that  of  Albany,  and  from  the  latter  along  the  Mohawk  and  Sene- 
ca rivers,  the  traveller  finds  renewed  gratification  at  every  step. 
From  Canandaigua  to  Buffalo,  is  the  least  interesting  tract  over 
which  I  myself  passed  $  but  even  here,  many  circumstances  m 
the  improvement  of  the  farms,  villages,  and  roads,  will  afford  am* 
pie  gratification  to  minds  who  derive  delight  from  seeing  a  wilder^ 
4iess  changed  to  a  cultivated  country* 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


[ADDENDA  NO.  If. 


When  arrived  at  Buffalo,  a  tract  opens,  that  the  coldest  heart 
can  scarce  view  with  indifference.    Here  opens  the  expanse  of 
lake  Erie,  the  richly  spreading  landscapes  along  Niagara  river, 
and  above  all,  that  cataract,  that  to  have  seen  may  he  considered 
a  privilege.    The  steam-boat  will  in  a  few  days  waft  the  traveller 
along  the  surface  of  lake  Erie  to  Detroit;  and  whilst  on  this  voy- 
age, the  swelling  shores  of  that  lake,  the  numerous  islands  in  its 
south-west  extremity,  above  all,  the  well  cultivated  shores  and 
beautiful  strait  of  Erie,  with  its  towns,  farms,  and  other  objects^ 
will  combine  to  present  a  continually  renewed  feast  to  the  mind. 
Returned  to  Buffalo,  the  Niagara  strait  can  once  more  be  passed 
with  unabated  pleasure.  The  steam-boats  are  again  in  readiness  at 
Lewiston  or  Queenston,  to  waft  the  traveller  along  Ontario  to 
Sacket's  IlarLor.  The  scenery  upon  the  shores  of  Ontario  is  move 
varied,  and  of  a  bolder  aspect  than  upon   Erie,  and  though 
the  least  in  extent  of  the  five  great  lakes  of  Canada,  Ontario  is 
the  most  interesting  of  the  whole  groupe.    With  Niagara  at  the 
one  extremity,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  at  the  other,  and  receiving 
from  its  southern  shores  the  Genesee,  Oswego,  and  Black  rivers, 
this  noble  sheet  of  water  may  claim  the  first  rank,  when  viewed 
as  the  great  connecting  link,  between  the  vast  interior  sea  of 
North  America,  and  the  unequalled  stream  flowing  from  its  east- 
ern point.    And  as  if  to  render  its  superiority  over  its  more  ex- 
pansive rivals  decisive,  it  possesses  the  two  fine  harbors  of  Kings- 
ton  and  Sacket's,  where  ships  of  the  line  of  the  first  rate, 
now  lie  in  silent  majesty,  awaiting  the  period  of  war,  to  waft  the 
thunder  of  their  hundred  cannon  over  its  deep  and  ocean-like 
bosom. 

Beside  the  features  of  Black  river,  which  as  high  as  Watertowu 
well  deserve  a  visit  from  the  curious  traveller,  many  other  objects 
near  Sacket's  Harbor,  will  amply  reward  the  trouble  and  expense 
of  a  review.  The  spot  is  indeed  classic  ground.  It  was  here 
that  first  budded  the  now  majestic  laurels  of  our  living  General 
Brown ;  and  it  is  here,  where  rests  the  remains  of  the  brave,  the 
generous,  humane,  and  chivalrous  Pike.  Upon  the  point  of  land 
overloeking  the  harbor,  rests  the  ashes  of  this  American  hero$ 
and  few  Americans  will  ever  visit  the  spot  without  dropping  a  tear 
to  the  too  .early,  but  glorious  exit  of  this  gallant  soldier.  But 
Pike  rests  not  alone     other  heroes  sleep  beside  him.   Many  of 


ADDENDA  NO.  I/.]  GENERAL  REMARKS.  XrV 

the  best  and  bravest  men  of  the  nation,  fell  upon  the  Canadian 
border.  Their  names  have  only  in  part  survived  the  battle  field  ; 
their  dying  sigh  mingled  with  the  last  roar  of  the  cannon,  and 
left  their  memory  to  be  cherished  by  a  few  relatives  and  friends, 
and  forgotten  by  that  country  they  so  greatly  served.  The  tra- 
veler in  seeking  their  graves,  will  often  seek  in  vain  ;  no  hand  is 
found  to  point  to  the  spot  where  the  soldier  sleeps.  Fame  lavish- 
es her  plaudits  upon  a'fe\v,  and  'eaves  the  many  to  perish  without 
a  name  ;  and  often  the  man  whose  sword  saved  his  country,  has 
4iot  eveu  the  poor  memorial  of  a  heap  of  earth,  to  render  sacred 
the  spot  where  his  remains  have  been  laid  ;  and  alas  !  too  often 
his  little  orphans,  mingle  the  bitterness  of  want,  with  tears  foi? 
a  father  who  can  neither  "  hear  them  sigh,  nor  see  them  weep." 

It  would  be  nothing  more  than  strictly  correct  to  add,  that  from 
Sacket's  Harbor  to  the  city  of  Quebec,  is  a  distance  of  about  380 
miles  that  concentrates  more  to  charm  the  eye,  than  can  be  found 
upon  any  equal  extent  in  North  America,  if  not  upon  the  earth; 
The  St.  Lawrence  river  and  islands,  the  shores  and  rapids,  tire 
distant  mountains,  the  contrast  of  cultivated  and  forest  land,  vil- 
lages, cities,  vessels  of  great  variety  of  size  and  form,  and  the 
majestic  and  pellucid  river,  all  form  a  tout  ensemble,  that  can  with 
difficulty  find  a  parallel. 

Returning  by  the  Richelieu  river,  lake  Champ  tain,  and  Hudson 
river  to  Albany  and  New-York,  will  complete  this  truly  delightful 
tour.  The  following  list  of  stages  and  distances,  will  give  more 
precise  ideas  of  the  time  necessary  to  perform  the  foregoing  tour. 


MILES. 

New -York  to  Albany,* 

160 

,160 

Utica,  .  -  - 

J  0.1 

261 

Auburn,  - 

74 

»  335 

357 

Canandaigua, 

16 

373 

Genesee  river. 

26 

399 

Data  via, 

■r             -             -             m  m 

26 

425 

40 

465 

Dunkirk,  - 

45 

5  10 

Erie,  - 

45 

555 

*  I  have  given  the  above,  because  that  number  of  miles  is  gen- 
erally understood  to  exist  between  the  two  cities.  The  estimate 
"is,  however,  erroneous  ;  it  is,  within  a  small  fraction  of  a  mile, 
145  miles  from  New- York  to  Albany. 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


[ADDENDA  NO.  lp 


Sandusky  Bay,       -  - 
Bass  Islands,  - 

JMouth  of  Detroit  river,  -       -       -  w 
Amhevstburg,  - 
DETROIT  CITY,  ..... 

Return  to  Buffalo^  -  - 

Thence  to  the  fails  of  Niagara, 
Quecnstown  and  Lewislon,  - 
¥ovt  Niagara  and  Fort  George,  enter  lake  Ontario, 
Genesee  river, 
t  *reat  Sod  us  Bay, 

Oswego  river,     -       -       *       -    - "  - 
Jacket's  Harbor, 

Cape  Vincent,  enter  Sfc>  Lawrence  l  iver, 
Urockvi Me, -Canada,  and  Morristown  in  U.  S. 
Ogdensburgh  U.  S.  and  Prescott  in  Canada, - 
tjpper  end  of  Grand  Gallop  Islands,       -  * 
Lower  end  of  ditto, 

Hamilton,  U.  S.      -----  - 

Cornwall  in  Canada,  St.  Regis  U.  S.  45  Q  N-.  lat. 
Montreal,       %       -       -       *■       *  - 
Three  Rivers, 
Quebec,-  - 
Return  to  Montreal,  - 
Plattshurg,  > 
Albany,  *  » 

New- York,  ^ 


MILES. 

90 

50 

695 

16 

71  1 

O  « 

2o 

7  J  4* 

H 
3 

1  A 

*7-  X  X 

1  ?U4d 

O  1 

1  ,UOD 

7 

1 ,07  J 

7 

1 ,080 

74 

1     1  K.  A 

\ ,  1  54< 

*>  t 

OD 

1     1  Qfl 

l ,  i  oy 

O  Q 
>5  o 

1  <)i7 

\  o  «y 
*  / 

on 

l  }Z(  t 

1  A 

5 

1  ,.344 

Q 

1 U 

1    <3  £  -"* 

1  ,oo.> 

35 

1,398 

60 

1,458 

105 

1,563 

65 

1,628 

165 

1,793 

73 

11.866 

178|2.iD44 

|l  60  (2,204 

III  the  above  table,  the  distances  are  given  rather  from  public 
estimates  than  from  real  measurement,  and  are  consequently  too 
liigb,  by  perhaps  nine  or  ten  percent.,  as  is  the  case  between 
New- York  and  Albany ;  the  relative  distances  I  believe  to  be  near 
]y  correct. 

This  line  tour  can  be  made  within  the  period  of  forty  days, 
"with  ample  time  to  see  the  n*ost  remarkable  objects  to  be  found 
upon  the  route.  The  necessary  expense  cannot  be  so  easily  es- 
timated, but  would  certainly  fall,  for  one  person,  below  three 
hundred  dollars.  The  best  season  of  the  year  would  be  July  and 
August;  though  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  a  Canadian  summer,  the 
traveller  must  be  on  the  St.  Lawrence  in  July  and  the  early  part 
of  August. 


M)TfKki)A  N@.  II.]         GOV.  CLINTON 'S  MESSAGE. 


tflviv 


The  address  of  Governor  Clinton,  to  the  legislature  of  the  state 
of  New- York  readied  the  eity  of  New- York,  on  the  evening  of 
the  7th  January,  1819.  The  foregoing  part  of  this  Addenda  wa£ 
then  in  type,  but  I  considered  some  part  of  the  Governor's  address 
of  so  much  import,  ami  m  relevant  to  the  subject  on  which  the 
Addenda  itself  was  ftmtided,  that  I  have  taken  the  liberty  to  su* 
peradd  the  following  extracts  from  that  luminous  production.  I 
am  the  more  emboldened  to  this  procedure,  from  considering  the 
sentiments  expressed,  and  the  facts  conveyed  by  that  excellent 
statesman,  as  national  property. 

"  The  progress  of  our  internal  improvements  has  equalled  our 
most  sanguine  expectations,    in  the  course  of  the  next  session^ 
the  Northern  Canal,  extending  from  Whitehall  at  the  head  of  lake 
Champlain,  to  Fort  Edward,  on  the  Hudson  river,  a  distance  of 
23  miles,  and  the  whole  of  the  middle  section  of  the  Western  Ca- 
nal comprising  ninety-four  miles,  and  reaching  from  the  Seneca 
l  iver  to  the  Mohawk  river  at  Utica,  will  be  completed  and  in  a  na- 
vigable state.    Thus,  in  less  than  two  and  a  half  years,  Canals  to 
the  extent  of  one  hundred  and  seventeen  miles  will  be  perfected. 
And,  as  the  eastern  and  Western  sections  of  the  Canal  from  lake 
Erie  to  Hudson  river  will  be  about  260  miles,  it  is  evident  that, 
by  the  application  of  similar  means  and.  the  exertion  of  similar 
powers,  the  whole  of  this  internal  navigation  can  be  finished  in 
six  years  from  the  present  period,  including  also  the  improvements 
essential  on  Hudson  river,  from  Foil  Edward  to  the  head  of  sloop 
navigation.    Jt  is  satisfactory  also  to  know  that,  so  far  as  we  can 
judge  from  tlie  lights  of  experience,  the iactual  expenses  have  not 
exceeded  the  estimates  of  the  commissioners.    And,  with  ail  the 
ad  vantages  arising  from  eirci  eased  knowledge,  from  improved  skill, 
and  from  circumspect  experience, ive  are  fn  raly  persuaded,  iliat 
the  aggregate  expense  will  fail  short  of  the  total  estimate.    Jt  is 
•also  a  most  gratifying  consideration  to  find,  that  from  the  pro- 
gressive and  flourishing  state  of  the  fund  appropriated  to  this  ob- 
ject, the  whole  undertaking  can  be  completed  without  providing 
any  auxiliary  resources,  -and  without  imposing  any  taxes  on  the 
community.    From  the  commencement  of  the  next  year,  the  fi- 
nished portions  of  the  Canals  will  be  in  a  state  productive  of  con* 
siderable  revenue. 

By  the  act  respecting  navigable  communications  between  the 


xlviii 


gov.  Clinton's  .message,     [addenda  no.  i*. 


great  western  and  norlbern  lakes  and  the  Atlantic  ocean,  passed 
the  15th  April,  18.17.,  the  commissioners  are  only  empowered  to 
make  Canals  between  the  Moha  wk  and  Seneca  rivers,  and  be- 
tween lake  Champlain  and  the  Hudson  river.  Possessing,  how- 
ever, under  that  act,  and  the  act  to  provide  lor  the  improvement 
of  the  internal  navigation  of  the  state,  passed  the  17th  April,  181-6, 
authority  to  make  the  necessary  surveys,  and  to  lay  out  the  pro- 
per routes  for  the  whole  of  the  Western  and  Northern  Canals, 
they  have  not  overlooked  the  latter,  although  their  attention  has 
been  principally  de voted  to  the  former  object.  By  that  initiatory 
arrangement,  it  was  obviously  the  intention  of  the  Legislature  to 
bring  the  calculations  of  the  commissioners  to  the  touchstone  of 
experiment,  and  to  determine  whether  the  resources  of  the  state 
are  adequate  to  the  whole  operation. 

"  This  trial  has  taken  place  in  the  most  satisfactory  manner^ 
and  there  cannot  exist  a  doubt  of  the  feasibility  of  the  work,  or 
of  the  ability  of  the  state.  It  is  therefore  highly  expedient  that 
a  law  should  be  passed,  during  the  present  session,  authorising 
the  completion  of  the  whole  work  as  soon  as  possible.  In  the 
course  of  this  year  the  routes  can  be  then  so  far  definitively  settled  , 
as  to  enable  the  formation  of  contracts  to  take  effect  in  the  spring 
of  1820,  by  which  means  a  whole  year  will  be  saved  to  the  ope- 
ration, and  the  state  will  have  the  benefit  of  experienced  con- 
tractors, who  might,  under  a  different  state  of  things,  be  employ- 
ed in  other  undertakings.  And,  when  we  contemplate  the  im- 
mense benefits  which  will  be  derived  from  the  consequent  pro- 
motion of  agriculture,  manufactures,  and  commerce — from  the 
acquisition  of  revenue— from  the  establishment  of  character,  and 
from  the  consolidation  of  the  federal  union,  we  must  feel  ourselves 
impelled  by  the  most  commanding  motives,  to  proceed  in  our 
honorable  career,  by  perfecting  with  all  possible  expedition  thi$ 
inland  navigation. 

"  At  the  present  period  a  ton  of  commodities  can  be  convey- 
ed from  Buffalo  to  Albany  by  land  for  $100,  and  to  Montreal, 
principally  by  water,  for  25.  Hence  it  is  obvious  that  the  whole 
of  the  vast  region  to  the  west  of  that  flourishing  village,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  extensive  and  fertile  country  east  of  it,  are 
prevented  from  sending  their  productions  to  our  commercial 
emporium,  and  that  they  must  either  resort  to  the  precarious 


ADDENDA  NO.  XI^         GOV.  CLINTON'S  MESSAGE. 


markets  of  Canada,  or,  to  places  more  distant,  less  accessible;  or 
less  advantageous.  When  the  great  western  canal  is  finished, 
the  expense  of  transportation  from  Buffalo  to  Albany,  will  not 
exceed  |10  a  ton.  Almost  the  whole  of  the  ascending  trade  of 
the  west  will  be  derived  from  the  city  of  New- York,  and  a  great 
portion  of  the  descending  products  will  accumulate  in  that  im- 
portant depot.  If  half  a  million  of  tons  are,  at  the  present  pe- 
riod, transported  on  the  waters  of  the  Hudson  river,  it  is  reason- 
able to  suppose  that  the  time  is  not  distant,  when  the  commodi- 
ties conveyed  on  the  Canals  will  be  equal  in  amount.  A  small 
transit  duty  will  consequently  produce  an  immense  income,  ap- 
plicable to  the  speedy  extinguishment  of  the  debt  contracted  for 
the  Canals,  and  to  the  prosecution  of  other  important  improve- 
ments. 

"  In  these  works,  then,  we  behold  the  operation  of  a  powerful 
engine  of  finance,  and  of  a  prolific  source  of  revenue. 

"  It  is  certainly  more  important,  that  the  productive  classes  of 
Society  should  have  good  markets,  out  of  the  state,  than  that  they 
should  be  exclusively  confined  to  indifferent  or  fluctuating  mar- 
kets in  it.  In  the  former  case,  wealth  is  diffused  over  the  whole 
country,  while  in  the  latter,  it  is  limited  to  a  very  few  towns.  A 
wise  government  ought  to  encourage  communications  with  those 
places,  where  the  farmer  and  manufacturer  can  sell  at  the  high- 
est, and  buy  at  the  lowest  prices.  And,  as  the  acquisition  of  ma- 
ny markets  encreases  the  chance  of  good  ones,  and  diminishes, 
in  many  instances,  the  expences  of  transportation,  and  guards 
against  the  pernicious  fluctuations  of  price,  I  look  forward  with 
pleasure  to  the  speedy  arrival  of  the  time,  when  the  state  will  be 
able  to  improve  the  navigation  of  the  Susquehanna,  the  Allegany, 
the  Genesee,  and  St.  Lawrence — to  assist  in  connecting  the  wa- 
ters of  the  great  lakes  and  of  the  Mississippi — to  form  a  junction- 
between  the  western  Canal  and  lake  Ontario  by  the  Oswego  river, 
and  to  promote  the  laudable  intention  of  Pennsylvania,  to  unite 
the  Seneca  lake  with  the  head  waters  of  the  Susquehanna." 

The  calculation  contained  in  these  extracts,  of  the  time  neces- 
sary to  complete  the  Grand  Canal  between  Albany  and  Buffalo* 
and  the  canal  from  the  Hudson  river  to  lake  Champlain,  are 
founded  upon  data,  that  are  too  well  based  to  admit  either  refuta- 
tion or  cavil.    If  the  state  of  New-York  is  left  by  the  nation  at 


I 


<JOV.  CHNTON?S  MESSAGE.         [AI>1»£N1>A  N0.  Si* 


large  to  carry  into  effect  this  mighty  project,  unaided,  and  in 
some  measure  opposed ;  and  should  a  single  state,  thus  placed* 
actually  effect  such  an  undertaking,  the  result  will  exhibit  the  most 
extraordinary  instance  of  the  energy  of  a  small  part,  and  the 
npathy  of  the  residue  of  the  people  of  the  United  States,  that  has 
yet  met  the  eye  of  mankind.  Such  an  issue,  will  be  glorious  in- 
deed to  New- York,  but  shameful  to  the  nation  ;  it  will  be  a  tri- 
umph of  active  reason,  over  inert  prejudice.  But  In  such  modes 
and  manner  ;  in  the  struggle  of  science  against  prescriptive 
opinion,  has  the  progress  of  mankind  hitherto  advanced.  The 
Grand  Canal  will  bean  eternal  monument  erected  to  the  memory 
of  its  projectors  and  executors  ;  and  the  most  solacing  reflection, 
that  presses  upon  the  mind  when  contemplating  this  unequalled 
change  made  upon  the  physiognomy  of  nature,  is,  that  not  one 
drop  of  this  artificial  flood  will  be  drained  from  the  tears  of  suf- 
fering humanity.  When  the  present  generations  have  passed 
away,  and  when  the  future  voyager  is  wafted  along  the  picturesque 
vale  of  the  Mohawk,  amid  all  that  can  decorate  the  earth  and  de- 
light the  senses,  he  will  recall  with  unmixed  admiration  the  names 
of  those  whose  genius  procured  such  benefieeuce  to  t,he  men  ot 
every  passing  age: 


4$Mtt£N0A  NO.  JH.«]  BAtLSTON  SPRINGS* 


no.  in, 

BALLSTON  SPRINGS. 

It  was  with  much  regret  that  on  my  return  to  Albany*  I  coukl 
iiot  spare  time  to  visit  Ballston.  Curiosity  to  see  one  of  the  mosfc 
noted  places  of  public  resort  in  the  United  States,  would  have 
led  me  to  that  village,  and  over  its  environs,  but  calk  of  a  more 
imperative  nature,  deprived  me  of  such  a  pleasure.  The  fol- 
lowing letter  contains  very  satisfactory  information  respecting 
those  celebrated  waters?  and  from  its  source  is  entitled  to  full 
confidence. 

"  Ballston-Spct,  November  27,  181 8. 

"  The  name  of  Ballston,  though  frequently  applied  to  the 
village  at  the  mineral  springs,  belongs  in  strictness  to  a  township 
about  five  miles  square,  the  north  boundary  of  which  falls  within, 
and  embraces  a  part  of  the  village  ;  the  principal  portion  of 
which  lies,  within  the  adjacent  township  of  Milton. 

a  This  village  was  incorporated  in  1807,  by  the  name  of  Ballsr- 
ton-Spa,  is  under  the  government  of  three  Trustees,  annually 
chosen,  and  invested  with  certain  privileges,  fpr  the  better  regu- 
lation of  its  own  peculiar  concerns,  though  for  civil  purposes  geiir 
erally,  a  part  thereof  acts  with  the  town  of  Ballston,  and  a  part 
with  the  town  of  Milton. 

*  The  distinction  between  Ballston  and  Ballston-Spa,  ought  to  he 
carefully  observed  by  all  wljo  have  occasion  to  correspond  with 
visitants  at  these  celebrated  waters  ;  a  post-office  being  establish- 
ed, not  only  at  this  place  but  also  in  the  town  of  Baliston,  at 
some  distance  from  the  village.  A  similar  observation  might  be 
made  with  respect  to  Saratoga,  and  Saratoga  Springs. 

"  The  village  of  Ballston-Spa  is  in  the  county  of  Saratoga,  26 
miles  north  of  the  city  of  Albany,  in  a  beautiful  and  romantic 
situation.  It  lies  within  and  along  side  of  a  valley,  through 
which  flows  a  stream  of  water,  emptying  itself  immediately  be- 
low the  village,  into  the  Kayadarosseras  creek.  Tins  valley  com- 
mences at  the  south- wcsU  where  the  stream,  which  had  previously 


ill 


BALLSTON  SPRINGS. 


[ADDENDA  NO.  flf. 


flowed  towards  the  south,  fetches  a  short  compass  round  a  point 
of'  land  towards  the  north  east,  runs  some  distance  in  that  direc- 
tion, then  turns  and  passes  off  towards  the  east.  The  valley  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  creek,  is  narrow  at  first  ;  hut  after  it  has 
taken  an  eastern  direction,  its  north  bank  suddenly  recedes,  and 
forms  a  beautiful  plain,  opening  to  view  the  Kayadarosseras  and 
its  buildings.  The  north-west  side  of  the  valley  is  bordered  by 
sand  hills,  high  and  very  steep.  At  the  south-west  end  commen- 
ces a  smooth  and  gentle  ridge  of  land,  which  runs  east,  sloping 
towards  the  north,  until  making  a  gradual  circuit,  it  turns  its  in- 
clining surface  towards  the  west.  The  termination  of  this  slope 
is  the  curving  bank  of  the  valley  along  its  south-eastern  side,  on 
which  bank  the  greater  part  of  the  village  is  built.  The  high 
sand  hills  on  the  north-west,  the  ridge  of  land  on  the  south  and 
east,  with  the 'open  plain  on  the  north-east,  form  the  natural  boun- 
daries of  the  vi  llage. 

u  This  village  contains  112  houses,  exclusive  of  out-houses, 
some  of  which  being  attached  to  taverns  and  large  hotels,  are 
extensive,  and  add  considerably  to  the  village.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  is  614.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  business  through- 
out the  year  ;  the  lands  in  the  neighborhood,  with  the  exception 
of  the  pine  plains  towards  the  north,  being  generally  fertile,  and 
the  trade  of  the  inhabitants  centering  here.  There  are  at  pre- 
sent six  large  stores  for  the  sale  of  dry  goods  and  groceries,  an 
extensive  hardware  and  two  druggist  stores  ;  two  printing  offices, 
and  a  bookstore,  with  which  is  connected,  for  the  accommodation 
of  strangers,  a  Circulating  library  and  a  reading  room.  On  the 
Kayadarosseras,  a  large  and  never  failing  stream,  mills  for  vari- 
ous purposes,  with  a  cupola  furnace  have  been  erected,  at  a  little 
distance  from,  and  within  sight  of  the  village.  The  court-house 
for  the  county  of  Saratoga  is  located  here,  and  is  a  large  brick 
edifice,  newly  erected  and  well  built.  We  have  also  two  houses 
for  public  worship,  an  Episcopal  and  a  Baptist  church,  in  which 
respectable  congregations  statedly  assemble  ;  likewise  an  Acade- 
my, in  which  a  numerous  and  reputable  school  is  constantly 
taught.  The  inhabitants  are  intelligent,  industrious,  frugal,  ami 
remarkably  temperate.  A  moderate  degree  of  refinement  and 
fashion  prevails*    Regularity  and  good  order  exist  to  a  consider- 


ADDENDA  NO.  III.]  BALLSTON  SPRINGS. 


tiii 


able  degree,  though  as  to  religion  and  morality,  it  must  be  coiv 
fessed,  we  fall  much  below  the  christian  standard. 

This  place  is  famous  for  its  mineral  waters,  which  with  those 
of  Saratoga  near  by,  have  attracted  uncommon  attention,  and 
annually  draw  great  numbers  from  all  parts  to  visit  them,  in  the 
summer  season.  Hence  in  addition  to  several  inns,  there  are 
three  large  boarding  houses*  expressly  designed  for  the  acconi 
modation  of  strajigers,  at  the  season  of  general  resort.  The 
largest  of  these,  the  Sans  Souci  Hotel,  will  vie  with  any  establish- 
ment of  a  similar  nature,  for  the  style  in  which  it~is4q?nt,  and  as 
a  spacious,  airy,  and  commodious  building.  It  presents^  front 
three  stories  high,  and  i60  feet  in  length,  extends  back  in  a  wing 
at  each  end  153  feet,  is  surrounded  by  a  spacious  and  beautiful 
yard,  which,  with  its  extensive  piazzas,  large  hail,  and  spacious 
assembly-room,  render  it  a  delightful  place.  Here  the  rich,  gay, 
and  fashionable,  resort  in  crowds,  during  the  months  of  July  and 
August.  It  is  calculated  for  the  reception  of  130  boarders,  and 
frequently  exceeds  that  number.  Next  to  the  San  Souci,  Al- 
dridge's  boarding-house  is  the  most  noted*  It  stands  in  the  val- 
ley, at  the  foot  of  a  high  sand  hill,  nearly  opposite  the  public* 
and  formerly  the  principal  spring,  and  is  handsomely  bordered 
on  the  east  and  south  by  a  court-yard  and  garden,  by  the  side  of 
which  flows  the  rivulet  of  the  valley.  The  building  itself  is  not 
elegant,  yet  the  reputation  of  the  house  is  deservedly  high,  and 
draws  to  it  its  full  share  of  public  patronage. 

#  Ballston-Spa. — By  the  Register  kept  at  the  Reading  Room  at 
Ballston  Springs,  (says  the  Commercial  Advertiser)it  appears  that 
the  number  of  persons  who  have  visited  those  Springs,  during  the 
past  season,  1818,  amounts  to  two  thousand  five  hundred.  Of 
this  number  more  than  twelve  hundred,  it  is  stated,  live  south  of 
New- York.  It  is  also  stated,  that  the  whole  number  were  accom- 
modated with  board  and  lodging  as  follows  : 


[It  is  fair  to  calculate  that  the  average  expenditure  at  the 
above  place,  was  50  dollars  a  piece — In  this  case  the  sum  tots* 
is  125,000  dollars.]— Gaz. 


At  J.  B.  Aldridge's 
At  Sans  Souci  Hotel 
At  David  Cory's 
At  other  houses 


950 
800 
500 
25© 


Total  2,500 


V 


liv  ballston  springs.  [addenda  no.  III. 

The  tlii vd  Targe  boarding-house  is  Corey's,  formerly  Mrs. 
White's.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  on  the  ridge  of  land, 
-which  runs  along  the  south  side  of  tlie  village.  The  building  and 
its  accommodations  rank  with  Aldridge's,  yet  being  in  a  situation 
more  retired  and  remote  from  the  springs,  though  highly  pleasain 
and  agreeable,  it  is  less  known  and  less  frequented. 

The  existence  of  this  village,  is  owing  entirely  to  the  mineral 
springs,  which  hi  this  favored  spot,  rise  up  from  the  bowels  of  the 
earth.  These,  exclusive  of  a  sulphur  spring  which  has  attracted 
little  or  no  attention,  were  but  lately  two  in  number,  one  on  the 
private  property  of  Nicholas  Low,  Esq.  over  which  he  has  erec- 
ted a  handsome  bathing-house,  and  the  other  in  the  public  high- 
way, nearly  opposite  Alldridge's  boarding-house.  According  t« 
Mead's  Analysis,  which  sustains  a  high  reputation,  the  public 


well  contains  in  one  quart  of  water  : 

Grains, 

Muriat  of  Soda  42 

Muriat  of  Magnesia          -  1  3-4 

Muriat  of  Lime           -          -  -                 3  1-4 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia     -  *         -  113-4 

Carbonate  of  Lime       -          -  •»                 9  1-4 

Oxide  of  Iron,      -         -  -         -         -  1 


Total,  69 

Of  aeriform  fluids :  Cubic  Inches. 

Carbonic  acid  gas       -          -  -  6 1 

Azotic  gas  -  -  -  -  -    2  1-2 


Total,    63  1-2 

And  Low's  well  contains  exactly  the  same  ingredients,  in  near- 
ly the  same  quantities. 

"  The  natural  appearance  of  these  springs  is  curious  and  pleas- 
ing; their  waters  are  in  continual  agitation,  are  perfectly  trans- 
parent, and  have  a  saline,  pungent,  and  to  those  accustomed  to 
them,  a-  most  agreeable  taste.  They  possess  a  stimulating  and 
refreshing  quality.  Under  the  exhaustion  of  heat  and  fatigue, 
rrothing  can  be  more  agreeable  and  reviving  to  the  system.  As 
powerful  remedies  also,  in  4iiany  cases  of  disease,  they  are  well 
known  and  highly  celebrated. 


ADDENDA  NO.  III.] 


BALLSTQN  SPRINGS. 


"  These  springs,  however  curious  and  excellent  as  they  really 
are,  have  been  recently  eclipsed  by  a  new  spring,  which  little 
more  than  a  year  since  burst  from  the  earth.  In  the  month  of 
August,  1817,  continual  rains  had  swollen  the  creek,  which  passes 
through  this  place,  to  a  very  great  height,  and  produced  a  destruc- 
tive flood.  In  the  centre  of  the  village,  the  furious  stream  cut  for 
itself  a  new  course,  and  a  few  rods  lower  down,  it  again  diverted 
a  little  from  its  former  channel,  which  upon  the  subsiding  of  the 
water  was  left  dry.  In  this  deserted  channel,  which  a  few  years 
ago  had  been  artificially  made  for  the  purpose  of  turning  the 
creek  from  its  natural  course,  veins  of  mineral  water  were  soon 
discovered  issuing  up  through  the  sand,  and  forming  on  the  sur- 
face a  large  fountain.  As  the  water  rose  through  a  deep  bed  of 
loose  gravel,  blue  clay,  and  quicksand,  was  foul,  discoloured,  and 
mingled  with  large  quantities  of  fresh  water;  great  difficulties 
were  apprehended  in  getting  it  into  a  state  proper  for  use.  This 
object,  however^  has  been  happily  accomplished,  and  in  a  simple 
and  easy  manner.  Two  tubes  have  been  forced  down  to  differ 
tint  depths,  through  which  rise  waters  differing  considerably  in 
their  qualities,  and  constituting  in  fact  two  new  springs.  The 
lirst  tube  was  sunk  to  the  depth  of  fourteen  feet,  is  on  a  level  with 
the  surrounding  earth,  and  being  not  perfectly  tight  at  the  top, 
never  overflows  with  water.  The  depth  of  the  second  tube  below 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  is  twenty-throe  feet,  and  into  it  an  addi- 
tional tube  five  feet  long  has  been  inserted,  through  the  whole  of 
which  length,  that  is,  twenty-eight  feet,  the  water  rises  to  the  sur- 
face, boiling  and  sparkling  in  the  most  curious  and  l>eautiful  man* 
ner,  and  falling  down  in  every  direction  over  the  sides  of  the  tube. 
These  springs*,  especially  the  latter,  it  has  been  proposed  to  call 
the  Washington  fountain  ;  and  they  are  commonly  distinguished 
from  each  other  by  the  descriptive  appellations  of  the  low  and 
the  high  tube. 

u  With  regard  to  the  qualities  of  these  waters,  I  cannot  do  bet- 
ter than  to  make  a  few  extracts  from  a  letter,  published  in  the 
New- York  Evening  Post,  of  the  26th  of  September  last,  written 
hy  Dr.  Mead>  to  the  Editor  of  that  paper. 

6  I  have  found,'  saith  he,  '  that  the  Washington  fountain  (mean- 
nig  thereby  the  high  tube,)  contains  more  carbonic  acid  gas,  than 
my  other  mineral  spring  which  has  ever  been  examined  in  t\m 


M  BALLSTON  STRINGS.  [ADDENDA  NO.  111. 

country,  and  certainly  much  more  than  any  in  Europe  of  which 
we  have  any  correct  account : — one  quart  of  this  water,  or  55,750 
cubic  inches  of  it,  contains  nearly  76  cubic  inches  of  this  gas. 
The  adjoining  well  does  not  contain  any  thing  like  the  same  quan- 
tity of  gas. 

i  The  next  valuable  qualities  which  these  springs  possess,  arise 
from  the  quantity  of  iron  which  they  contain,  held  in  solution  by 
the  carbonic  acid.  According  to  my  former  analysis  of  the  Bal&- 
ston  and  Saratoga  waters,  I  never  found  any  of  them  to  contain 
more  than  one  grain  of  iron  in  a  quart,  but  I  think  I  may  ven- 
ture to  state,  from  actual  experiments,  that  the  Washington  foun- 
tain contains  nearly  double  that  quantity ;  but  the  adjoining 
spring  not  quite  so  much. 

6  With  respect  to  the  saline  contents  of  these  springs,  they  d& 
not  differ  materially  in  quality  from  those  waters  at  Ballston,  the 
analysis  of  which  I  have  given  to  the  public.  None  of  them  con- 
tain sulphats;  in  this  they  differ  from  most  mineral  waters;  their 
cathartic  properties,  therefore,  are  derived  principally  from  the 
muriut  of  soda,  or  common  salt,  with  which  they  are  impregnat- 
ed. The  Washington  fountain,  however,  contains  less  of  this  sail 
than  any  of  the  springs  either  at  Ballston  or  Saratoga,  while  the 
adjoining  spring  contains  much  more  than  any  of  them,  except 
the  Congress  spring 

1  The  Washington  Fountain  is  so  highly  charged  with  carbonic 
acid  gas,  and  contains  also  so  much  iron,  that  it  may  be  ranked 
in  the  first  class  of  tonic  remedies ;  but  at  the  same  time,  it  is  one 
the  use  of  which  requires  much  caution.  It  possesses  all  the 
good  qualities  which  are  attributed  either  to  the  waters  of  the 
Seltzer  or  Pyrmont,  and  some  of  them  in  a  superior  degree.  It 
is  superior  to  the  Seltzer  or  Spa,  in  containing  iron,  in  which  they 
are  both  deficient;  and  it  differs  materially  from  the  Pyrmont,  m 
containing  a  sufficient  quantity  of  muriate  of  Soda,  to  act  as  a 
cooling  febrifuge,  and  to  counteract,  in  some  degree,  the  heating 
and  stimulating  qualities  of  the  other  ingredients,  which,  in  some 
constitutions,  would  totally  forbid  the  use  of  them.  I  have  never 
as  yet  met  with,  nor  have  I  heard  of  any  water  that  so  nearly 
resembles  the  waters  of  Germany,  as  the  Washington  fountain- 
It  may  be  drank  with  great  advantage  in  all  cases  of  general  de^ 
bility,  whe^e  there  is  great  relaxation  and  loss  of  tone  j  and  pas*- 
ticularly  in  diseases  of  the  stomach.* 


ADDENDA  NO.  Ill  .J  BALLSTON  SPRINGS, 


Ivii 


"  Of  the  adjoining  spring,  that  is  the  low  tube,  Doctor  Mead 
remarks,  that  it  6  has  been  found  to  possess  very  powerful  purga- 
tive qualities,  and  may  be  considered  as  a  sort  of  intermediate 
between  the  waters  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga,  It  is  evidently, 
even  to  the  taste,  more  saline  than  any  of  the  springs  at  Ballston? 
or  than  any,  excepting  one,  at  Saratoga  ;  and  I  have  found  by 
analysis,  that  it  contains  nearly  one-fifth  more  of  muriate  of 
soda  or  common  salt,  than  any  oilier,  except  that  one ;  and  be- 
sides, possesses  in  the  same  proportion,  all  the  other  ingredients, 
such  as  carbonate  of  magnesia,  carbonate  of  lime,  and  iron. 
It  cannot  therefore  be  doubted,  that  it  becomes  a  very  active  pur- 
gative, sufficiently  effectual  to  answer  almost  all  useful  purposes, 
particularly  if  drank  under  proper  management,  and  with  due 
precaution  ;  the  neglect  of  which  will  not  only  prevent  the  Con- 
gress water  from  having  the  desired  effect,  but  render  too  free  a 
use  of  it  highly  injurious  to  the  system.' 

"  Of  a  place  abounding  with  such  invaluable  waters,  the  geol- 
ogy must  be  interesting.  As  that,  however,  is  a  science  to  >\I  ich 
I  make  no  pretensions,  I  beg  leave  again  to  refer  to  Doctor  Mead, 
whose  observations  upon  this  subject,  may  be  found  in  the  intro- 
ductory part  of  his  chemical  analysis  of  the  waters  of  Uallstoii 
and  Saratoga, from  which  the  following  extracts  are  made. 

<  In  the  center  of  the  village  of  Ballston,  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity is  offered  of  examining  the  situation  of  the  strata.  A 
small  rivulet  runs  through  it,  which  has  laid  bare  an  entire  range 
of  floetz  or  horizontal  rocks,  consisting  of  what  may  be  called  a 
calcario  argillaceous  schist  or  shale.  This  schist  is  nearly  of  a 
black  colour,  and  from  its  staining  the  fingers,  would  appear  to 
contain  a  portion  of  carbon  ;  it  effervesces  slightly  with  acids, 
which  shews  that  it  also  contains  carbonate  of  lime  ;  it  breaks 
easily  into  lamina?  of  any  thickness,  and  impressions  of  vegeta- 
bles, chiefly  of  a  species  of  grass,  can  be  observed  between  the 
lamina?  ;  but  when  large  masses  are  exposed  for  any  length  of 
lime  to  the  atmosphere,  it  rapidly  shivers,  or  decomposes.' 

{  Alternating  with  this  schist,  and  near  the  same  place,  wher- 
ever the  beds  of  sand  wiH  admit  an  inspection  of  the  rock,  solid 
masses  of  calcareous  rocks  are  observed.  This  limestone  is  near- 
ly of  a  black  colour,  its  fracture  is  slaty,  it  abounds  with  shells  of 
various  forms,  some  of  which  are  so  very  apparent  in  their  struo 
ture  and  form,  as  not  to  be  mistaken. 


BALLSTON  SPRINGS. 


[ADDENDA  NO.  lift 


i  Besides  these  rocks  which  I  have  attempted  to  describe  ^  and 
which  characterise  a  secondary  country,  it  is  necessary  to  state 
that  those  undulating  hills  which  surround  the  village  of  Ballston, 
and  which  continue  to  prevail  in  the  village  of  Saratoga,  are 
Forme'd  principally  of  immense  beds  of  fine  siliceous  sand,  as 
in  ay  be  particularly  observed  irt  the  rear  of  Aldridge's  boarding- 
house,  where  the  height  of  one  of  these  hills,  which  is  very  pre- 
cipitous, cannot  be  less  than  150  feet ;  under  this  sand  lies  im- 
mense beds  of  stiff  blue  clay,  which  hardens  when  left  for  any 
time  exposed  to  the  atmosphere  ;  it  effervesces  slightly,  but  does 
not  dissolve  in  acids,  from  which  I  should  rather  call  it  an  argil- 
laceous marie  ;  it  appears  with  some  probability  to  have  been 
formed  by  the  decomposition  of  the  schist  in  the  neighborhood  ; 
it  is  to  be  found  by  digging  in  the  valleys  in  any  direction,  and  it 
can  be  well  observed  on  the  side  of  a  declivity  near  Lowe's  well3 
where  a  considerable  saline  efflorescence  can  be  seen  on  its  sur- 
face, particularly  after  rain,  owing  to  the  chrystallization  of  the 
salt,  which  is  produced  by  the  sun's  rays.  This  is  a  very  interest- 
ing fact,  and  as  exactly  such  a  peculiar  species  of  clay  is  found 
to  prevail  in  the  soil  from  which  the  waters  of  Cheltenham  arise, 
it  may  tend  in  some  degree  to  explain  from  whence  waters  of  this 
description  receive  their  saline  impregnation. 

*  No  metallic  veins  of  ore  have  been  discovered  in  this  neigh* 
borhood  in  any  direction  ;  and  except  iron,  which  is  found  in  all 
the  low  grounds,  in  the  state  of  an  argillaceous  or  bog  iron  ore,  I 
know  of  no  other  metaiic  deposit.' 

H  This  village,  though  now  considerable,  will  probably  still  in- 
crease,  and  receive  additional  improvements.  The  waters,  with 
those  of  Saratoga,  are  unrivalled,  and  may  be  confidently  expect- 
ed to  draw  increasing  crowds  of  visitants.  The  new  springs  are  a 
most  valuable  acquisition,  and  contiguous  to  them  is  an  extensive 
brick  edifice,  originally  intended  as  a  factory,  but  now  unemploy- 
ed, which,  with  capital  and  enterprise,  might  be  converted  into  a 
superb  boarding-house,  which  doubtless  would  be  filled  with 
guests,  and  prove  not  only  an  ornament  to  the  village,  but  a 
profitable  establishment. 

With  sentiments  of  respect, 

Yours. 
REUBEN  SEARS. 

Willi  Ay  Darby. 


ADDENDA  NO.  IV.] 


ROUTES. 


ROUTE  FROM  THE  CITY  OF  NEW- YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS, 

BY  HAMILTON;  £ITTSBURG,  CINCINNATI,  LOUISVILLE.   AND  THE  OHIO 
AND  MISSISSIPPI  RIVERS. 


MILES, 


Newburg,  - 

GO 

6$ 

Coehecton, 

120 

Hamilton,  - 

294 

3  54 

PITTSBURG, 

261 

(3 !  5 

Steuben  vi  lie, 

59 

674 

Cincinnati, 

3  6  3 

1037 

Louisville, 

131 

1  1  67 

Moutb  of  Ohio, 

393 

1560 

ST.  LOUIS, 

198 

1758 

ROUTE  FROM  THE  CITY  OF  NEW-YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS, 

J?Y  ALBANY,  BUFFALO,  DETROIT,  M I C H f L I M A K I N A C ,  LAKE  MICHIGAN, 
ILLINOIS,  AND  MISSISSIPPI  RIVERS. 


MILES. 


Albany, 

w         *  - 

160 

Canandaigua,  - 

2 !  3 

373 

Buffalo, 

92 

465 

Erie, 

m            I'  - 

90 

555 

Cleveland,  - 

90 

645 

DETROIT,  - 

1  10 

755 

Fort  Gratiot,  - 

67 

822 

Michilimakinac, 

190 

1012 

Mouth  of  Chicago 

ll  ver, 

280 

1292 

Head  of  Illinois 

do.  - 

40 

1332 

Mouth  of       do.  - 

400 

1732 

ST.  LOUIS,  - 

30 

•  1762 

It  will  be  at  once  seen  by  an  inspection  of  this  table,  that  the 
difference  in  distance,  by  the  two  routes,  is  trifling  ;  and,  all  things 
considered,  no  great  diversity  exists  naturally  in  the  facility  offer- 
ed, or  impediments  opposed  to  mercantile  transportation;  but 
with  the  Grand  Canal  from  Albany  to  Buffalo,  the  advantages  are 
obviously  in  favor  of  the  northern  route. 


ABDENDA  NO*  V.] 


GRAND  CANAL- 


NO.  V. 

The  following  very  valuable  letter  came  to  hand  this  morning, 
(Wednesday;  January  20th.)  I  rejoice  to  have  it  in  my  power  to 
include  its  contents  in  my  Addenda.  Those  persons  who  are  ac- 
quainted with  Mr.  Briggs,  will  appreciate  the  information  thus  con- 
veyed on  the  interesting  subject  of  internal  improvements,  the 
more,  as  little  doubt  can  be  harbored  as  to  the  judgment,  and  no 
suspicion  can  be  fostered  against  the  veracity  of  the  author. 

W.  D. 

u  Albany,  1st  mo.  1819. 

crM\r  ESTEEMED  FltlEND, 

u  I  duly  received,  at  the  village  of  Herkimer,  thy  favor  of  2 2d 
ult.  requesting  information  of  the  actual  state  and  progress  of 
the  work  on  the  Canals  of  the  state  of  New- York,  and  that  I  would 
promptly  answer  the  following  queries  : 

6  1st.    How  much  of  the  Canals  is  actually  completed  ? 

c  2d.  What  places  are  connected  by  the  parts  which  are  finished  ? 

c  3d.    The  names  of  the  Engineers  employed,  and  where  ? 

c  4th.  Any  other  circumstances  that  you  may  deem  of  impor- 
tance respecting  the  Canals  ?' 

u  At  the  time  I  received  thy  letter  I  was  engaged,  almost  night 
and  day,  in  making  laborious  calculations  for  a  detailed  report  to 
the  Board  of  Canal  Commissioners ;  and,  fearing  that  the  short 
space  of  time  until  this  report  ought  to  be  presented  would  scarcely 
admit  of  my  doing  justice  to  the  subject,  I  requested  my  friend 
David  Holt  to  make  to  thee  my  apology,  for  the  delay  of  my 
answer,  which  I  found  to  be  unavoidable.  1  now  embrace  with 
pleasure  the  first  opportunity,  which  my  arduous  duties  have 
permitted,  to  answer  thy  queries. 

"  lmo.  Portions  of  the  Canals  amounting  to  65  miles  are  actu- 
ally completed — 46  1-2  miles  of  the  Western,  and  18  1-2  miles  of 
the  Northern  ;  15  miles  more  are  half  done,  and  there  is  as  much 
work  performed  on  the  remaining  parts,  as  is  quite  equal  to  the 
finishing  of  those  15  miles,  making  an  aggregate  equal  to  80  mite 
of  finished  CanaL 


Ixll  riRAND  CANAL.  [ADDENDA  NO.  V. 

"  2do.  No  important  places  are  yet  connected  by  the  parts 
finished,  on  account  of  some  works  not  completed  crossing 
streams  in  the  Western,  and  Jocks  in  the  Northern  Canal.  Btit5 
in  the  course  of  next  season,  Whitehall  on  lake  Champlain,  will 
be  connected  with  Fort  Edward  on  Hudson's  river,  bv  23  miles 
of  Canal  \  and  the  salt-works  at  Onondaga  with  Utica  on  the 
Mohawk,  by  60  miles.  Between  Utica  and  Onondaga,  the  Canal 
passes  inexhaii&tible  beds  of  the  finest  gypsum  ;  so  that,  unless 
the  weather  should  be  beyond  probability  unfavorable,  or  some 
other  improbable  occurrence,  83  miles  of  Canal  will,  before  the 
close  of  next  season,  begin  to  yield  revenue. 

"  Stio.  The  Engineers  are  Benjamin  Wright,  James  Geddes, 
and  Isaac  Briggs  ;  Canvass  White,  James  Ferguson,  Valentine 
Gil!,  and  Asa  Moore,  have  also  been  employed.  I  believe  Canvass 
White  has  been  placed  in  the  rank  of  Engineer,  and  James  Fer- 
guson still  remains  an  assistant.  Valentine  Gill  has  been  em- 
ployed as  a  Draftsman,  and  Asa  Moore  as  Surveyor.  During  the 
late  season  Wright  and  White  have  been  employed  on  the  middle 
section  of  the  Western  Canal  ;  Geddes  and  Ferguson  on  the 
Northern  ;  and  Briggs,  Gill,  and  Moore,  in  exploring  and  locating 
the  Canal  and  its  locks,  on  the  Eastern  section,  from  Utica  down 
the  valley  of  the  Mohawk. 

"  4to.  In  my  answer  to  the  2d  query,  I  have  said,  that  83 
miles  of  Canal  will,  before  the  close  of  next  season,  begin  to  yield 
revenue.  I  will  here  add,  that,  in  fair  probability,  the  season 
after  next,  (1820,)  may  commence  with  an  active  navigation  on 
117  miles  of  Canal ;  and,  if  the  legislature  should,  at  their  present 
session,  authorise  the  whole  of  the  Western  Canal  to  be  made  as 
speedily  as  it  can  be  economically  done,  there  may  be,  at  the  close 
of  1820,  many  miles  more  in  great  forwardness,  and  the  whole 
Canal  may  be  finished,  before  the  close  of  1825,  as  easily  as,  and 
at  a  smaller  expense,  than  in  any  longer  period. 

"  By  a  sound  and  prudent  fiscal  management,  no  burdens  on  the 
people,  beyond  the  present  taxes,  and  these  only  for  one  year 
more,  will  be  necessary  to  accomplish  this  noble  work. 

u  When  the  expense  of  a  great  project  is  previously  estimated,  it 
usually  happens  that,  after  the  thing  is  finished,  the  actual  ex- 
pense greatly  exceeds  the  estimate.  In  the  whole  work  hitherto 
done,  the  contrary  is  found  to  be  the  fact,  and  an  animating  fact 


Addenda  no.  v.] 


GRAND  CANAL. 


Ixiii 


it  is,  the  actual  expense  falls  considerably  short  of  the  general 
estimate  made  in  1817,  when  the  subject  was  proposed  to  the 
legislature.  Although  experience  afforded  such  encouragement 
in  the  middle  section,  yet  there  remained  doubts  respecting  the 
Eastern  section,  where  probably  the  greatest  difficulties  exist.  I 
Jiave,  during  the  late  season,  carefully  and  minutely  examined  40 
miles  of  this  section,  which  portion  includes  some  of  the  principal 
difficulties,  and  it  is  my  decided  opinion,  that  this  portion  of  the 
Canal  can  be  made  for  an  expense  averaging  16  per  cent,  or  2,700 
dollars  per  mile,  less  than  the  estimate  of  the  Commissioners. 

"  I  have  said  that,  after  one  year  more  of  the  present  taxes,  no 
burdens  on  the  people  will  be  necessary  for  the  Canal.  Suppose 
no  more  than  120,000  tons  to  be  transported  in  one  year,  a  dis- 
tance of  1 17  miles,  at  a  toil  of  1  cent  per  ton  per  mile,  this  would 
yield  140,400  dollars,  the  interest  of  2,340,000,  at  6  per  cent. 
Every  succeeding  year  would  add  more  freight,  and  bring  into 
use  an  additional  portion  of  Canal  The  consequences  are  so 
obvious,  that  I  am  persuaded  it  is  unnecessary  to  pursue  further 
the  calculation.  A  stimulus  to  useful  industry  and  an  increase 
of  individual  happiness — the  extension  and  enlargement  of  all 
the  resources  of  the  state — an  accelerated  augmentation  of  its 
population,  wealth,  and  power — and,  instead  of  burdens,  an  abun- 
dant revenue  $  these  would  be  the  consequences  of  a  liberal  and 
enlightened  policy. 

"  Respectfully,  thy  friend, 

« ISAAC  BRiGGS, 

rfWiLLrAM  Darby." 


JVote,  ad.  signifies  Addenda. 


A. 

Abino,  point  171,  note  172. 

Albany,  author  arrives  there,  p, 
9;  aspect  of  the  country  be- 
tween and  Kinderhook,  p.  3*, 
35  ;  fine  view  of,  ib. 

Alloueites,  Point  des,  97,  note. 

Amherstburg,  p.  101,  note ;  de 
scribed,  193. 

Amsterdam,  village  of,  p.  45. 

Andre,  Major,  p.  14. 

Arnold,  General,  p.  14. 

Ashtabula  river,  209. 

Athens,  village  of,  p.  27. 

Auburn,  village  of,  212,  2 18 ;  cen- 
sus of,  ib.  note  5  state  prison 
at,  218 

Audrain,  Peter,  Register  of  the 
land  office  at  Detroit,  supplies 
the  author  with  a  manuscript 
map  of  part  of  the  Michigan 
territory,  191. 

B. 

Batavia,  village  of,  154. 
Ballston,  road  to,  44. 

  Spa,  li.  ad. 

Bay  de  Nivernois,  now  Sack.et's 
Harbor,  70. 

Chaurnout,  71. 


Barclay,  Commodore,  defeated 
by  Commodore  Perry,  211. 

Bass  Islands,  184,  185. 

Black  river,  at  Watertown,  68  ; 
at  Brownville,  69  ;  its  rapidi- 
ty, ib. 

Black  Rock,  138. 

Bloomjield,  village  of,  1 52  ;  coun- 
try near,  its  features,  153, 

Boi$  Blanch  Isfrndj  193. 


Booth's  Factory,  2 1  . 

Bonchette,  Mr.  Joseph,  quoted, 
86,  87,  92,  116,  203,  205. 

Boundary  line,  between  the  Uni- 
ted States,  and  Upper  Catt&da. 
proceedings  on,  87. 

Breck,  Mr.  Samuel,  1 38. 

Bridge,  over  Wappinger's  creek, 
20. 

  over  Kinderhook  creek. 


30. 

— —  over  the  Mohawk  river^ 
at  Schenectady,  43. 

  over  west  Canada,  54. 

  over  Deer  river,  66. 

  over  Black  river  at  Wa~ 


69 


tertown,  68 ;   at  Brownville, 
at  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 


166. 


over  Cayuga  lake,  215. 
Briggs,  Mr.  Isaac,  information 
obtained  from,  respecting  the 
Little  Falls,  49  ;  gives  the  au- 
thor the  latitude  of  Utica,  and 
the  variation  of  the  magnetic 
needle  at  that  village,  55  $  let- 
ter from  him  respecting  the 
Grand  Canal,  lxi.  ad. 
Brock,  General,  his  death,  169. 
Brockville,  town  of,  7,  105  note. 

107  note. 
Brown,  General  Jacob,  his  resi- 
dence, 69  ;  wounded,  169  ;  his 
military  career,  where  com- 
menced, xliv.  'ad. 
Brown,  Samuel  R.,  quoted  203. 
Byron,  Lord,  quoted,  1 64  note. 
Buffalo,  village  of,    137.   155  ; 


X 


IMJEX. 


&  reek  ruear,  156;  harbor  of, 
it.  157  ;  destroyed,  170  ;  road 
from  Fort  George  to,  170  ; 
farther  reflections  upon  its 
harbor,  171. 
Burgoyne,  General,  his  marcl 
towards  Albany,  24  ;  surren 
ders  liis  arrnv,  25. 

%. 

Canada  creek,  east,  47. 

  creek,  west,  53. 

  Upper,  prov  ince  of,  74  ; 

observations  and  reflections  on 

76,  87  5  its  climate  misunder 

stood,  121. 

%}afial,  between  Seneca  lake  and  Chatauque  lake,  175 


Cfapi  A  Wen  PaWrMge,  26", 
note  ;  where  seen  to  most  ad- 
vantage, 26 ;  covered  with 
snow,  May  3d,  1818,  27  note; 
seen  from  Columbiaville,  31  ; 
from  Albany,  35  ;  from  Troy, 
36  ;  their  peculiar  range,  226. 
Cater skill  Falls ,  33. 
Cuyug a  c  1  eek ,  156. 

village,  214. 
lake^2  15. 
bridge,  ib. 
Cayahoga  river,  178. 
Cazenovia  creek,  156. 

village,  212,  220. 


Tioga  river,  136  note. 

grand,  in  the   state  of 


New-York,  160,  xxxiv.  ad. 

by  Chatauque  lake,  175 


Channwnt,  Mr.  Ray  de,  quoted,64 
note. 

bay,  71. 


Canadaway,  174. 

Canandaigua,  village  of,  131;  de- 
scribed, 133  ;  population,  ib, 
note ;  road  from  to  Buffalu 
212,  215  ;  revisited  by  the  au- 
thor, 212;  observations  upon, 
213. 

lake  of,  131,  133,  134 


Ghenal  Ecurte,  202,  205. 
Chenango  river,  220,  221. 
Cherry  Valley,  village  of,  2\%9 
222. 

Chippewa  river,  1 60  ;  battle  of# 

169  ;  river  described,  203. 
Claverack  creek,  29,  30. 
Cleveland,  village,  178,  179. 
Cllnion,  Governor,  his  inaugural 
discourse,  42  ;  description  of 
the  Little  Falls,  48  ;  extracts 
from  his  address,  xlviii.  ad. 


Canards,  riviere  aux,  193. 
Cape  Rosier,  1 1 2. 
Cass,  Governor,  196;  concludes 

a  treaty  with  several  Indian  Columbiaville.  80  5  scenery  near, 
tribes,  ib.  note. 
Carthage,  curiosity  near,  128 
Cataract,  of  Caterskili,  33. 

.   of  the  Cohoes,  38. 

 Little  Falls,  48. 

Niagara,  101,  161,  169. 


Cunningham* s  Island,  179. 
I). 

Danbury,  township  or  peninsula, 
181. 

Deer  river,  66. 


of  Velino,  description  of',  Detroit,  river  of,  99. 


by  Lord  Byron,  quoted,  164 


note. 


of  Seneca  outlet.  2 1 4, 
near  Ithaca,  215  note. 


Cattaraugus  creek,  156. 

Catskill,  village  of,  27,  32. 

— L. —  mom  'tains,  (Catsbergs) 
17  5  fAne  view  of,  from  Rhine- 
beck,  243  their  elevation  by 


city  of,  100  note,  137, 
187,  200". 
Dunkirk,  bay  and  harbor  descri- 
bed, 173;  prospects  of  future 
prosperity,  1 76. 
Dutchess  county,  N.  Y.  its  as- 
pect, 17  ;  timber  in  imprudent- 
dently  destroyed,  18,  19;  its 
extent  and  population,  19. 


INDEX, 


on,  ib.  ;  extent  and  quantity 
of  water  in,  117;  destructive 
storm  on,  171  note;  dangers 
of  its  navigation,  172;  dis 
tance  from  lake  Huron,  191. 
fort,  168,  170. 


E.  I    Canada,  76;  proceedings  re- 

JBddy'S  map  of  the  state  ojf  New-     spectmg,  in  the  provincial  le- 
York;  134.  gislature,  77  ;  observations  on, 

.  Erie,  town  of,  210  ;  harbor,  ib.  ib. 

lake  of,  100  note ;  storms  Grand,  or  Ouse  river  in  U.  C. 

described  100  note,  177,  203 
Grand  Inland,  in  Niagara  rive"r7 

1 58,  159  note. 
Grand  Gallop  Islands.,  106  note  ; 

described,  1 24. 
Granger,  Mr. 
Gratiot,  Fort,  200. 
Greene,  General,  14. 
Greene  county,  32,  33. 
Gros  Isle,  in  Detroit  river,  de- 
scribed, 192,  193. 

H. 

Hamilton,  village  of,  on  St.  Law- 
rence river,  87. 

— —  village  of,  on  Allegany* 
river,  7,  140. 
Harrison,  General,  reconquers 


Essex  county,  Upper  Canada, 

194,  L95. 
Esopus,  see  Kingston. 

F. 

Fall  creek,  2  15. 
Falls  of  St.  Mary,  94. 

—         of  Niagara,  10  i,  160. 

— — —  of  Montmorency,  112. 

 —  in  Fall  creek,  215  note. 

Fair  port,  village  of,  at  the  mouth 

of  Grand  river,  177. 
Fire  lands,  tenure  of  from  what 

derived,  181;  now  forms  part 

of  Huron  county,  ib. 
Flax,  its  culture  in  Canada,,  ad 

xvi.  xix. 
FisJikill  landing,  12. 


 —  mountains,  passage  of  the 

Hudson  river  through,  9,  10 : 
their  component  parts,  1 1 
note ;  their  height  measured 
by  Capt.  Alden  Partridge,  1 1 
note,  12  ;  scenery,  14. 

Fredonia,  formerly  Canadaway, 
174. 

French  of  Canada,  tlreir  charac 
ter,  86. 

G. 

Gelder,  Dr.  Van,  his  poem  upon 

Fort  Putnam,  13  note. 
Genesee  river,  153  ;  flats  of,  ib. 
Geneva,  village  of,  129;  descri 

bed,  130;  revisited  by  the  au 

thor,  212,  213. 
Goat  Island,  166  note. 
Gourlay,  Mr.  Robert,  reflections 

upon  his  operations  in  Upper 


Gideon,  2  K 


Michigan  territory,  1 87  j  de- 
feats General  Proctor,  ib.-,  a* 
gain,  211. 
Hawkins,  Colonel  Samuel,  his 
fete  champetre,  on  one  of  the 
St.  Law  re«  ce  islands,  100 
note. 

Haines,  C.  GK  esq.  correspond 
dence  with  the  author,  135, 
150. 

Hen  and  Chickens,  islands,  186. 
Herkimer  village,  54. 
Highlands,  a  term  used  for  the 
passage  of  the  Hudson  river 
through   the   Fishkill  moun- 
tains, 20. 
History,  reading  of  neglected  in 
the  United  States,  22;  lessons 
drawn  from,  80,  81. 
Hudson  river,  its  aspect  in  winter 
9  ;  its  passage  through  the  Fish- 
kill  mountains,  9,  10,  11  ;  did 
not  always  flow   into  New- 
York  bay,  1 1 ;  creeks  of,  20  * 
peculiar  features,  of  its  bank^ 
23,  29. 


Hudson,  town  of,  27,  28,  29-. 
Hull,  General,  reflections  upon 

his  operations  in  the  Michigan 

territory,  188. 
Huron  river,  in  the  state  of  Ohio, 

182. 

  of  lake  Erie,  201. 

—         of  lake  St.  Clair,  202 

■   lake,  95  ;  communication 

between  and  lake  Ontario,  98. 

99  note ;  extent  and  quantity 

of  water,  11 7  ^  distance  from 

lake  Erie,  191. 

2. 

Ithaca,  village  of,  216  note. 
K. 

Kinderkook  creek,  29,  33. 

 village  of,  33,  34. 

Kingston,  town  of,  in  Upper  Ca- 
nada, 97  note;  104 
—  village  of,  24 ;  taken  and 


dian  name  for   Fishkill,  \6 
note ;  scenery  on,  ib.;  Schenck7s 
factory  on,  i  6. 
Maumee  bay,  208,  209  ;  country 
near  compared  to  that  upon 
the  gulf  of  Mexico,  209. 
Mexican  gulf,  209. 
Michigan  Lake,  95,  108,  117. 
peninsula,  96  note, 
territory, 96  note;  popu- 


lation of,  197,  200;  geological 
structure,  i  98,  199;  settle- 
ments in,  200  •  climate,  ib, 
Mingan  settlement,  112. 
Mississippi  river, contrasted  with 
the  St.  Lawrence,  88,  90,  9 1 9 
92. 

Mohawk  river,  42,  48,  and  se- 
quel ;  valley  of  near  Utica^ 
57  ;  its  features,  225. 


burnt  by  the  British,  ib.  ,  pre- 
sent state  of,  25  ;  situation,  ib, 
Kirk  8f  Mercein,  Booksellers  of  Mountains,  Fishkill,  ll,andse 


Montreal,  city  of,  elegance  of  its 
site,  109  note;  population  of^ 
4  ;  noticed,  137. 


quel. 


the  city  of  New- York,  their 
edition  of  Cuvier's  theory  of 
the  Earth,  1 1  note ;  42, 
X. 

Lakes  and  rivers  compared,  108 
note. 

Lay^s  map  of  the  state  of  New 
York,  134. 

Little  Falls,  48  ;  description  of, 
by  Gov.  Clinton,  ib.  note;  sce- 
nery near,  49,  52;  changes 
that  this  cataract  has  under- 
gone, 52. 

Louisville,  town  of,  IS7. 

tyons  village,  129,  131. 
M. 

fllaitland,  Sir  Peregrine,  Gover 
nor  of  Upper  Canada,  proceed- 
ings of,  respecting  Mr.  Robert 
*Gourlay,  77 

Maiden,  193. 

Manufactures,  American,  disad-j 

vantages  opposed  to,  1 6,  2 1, 22 
MaUowanf  actory  at,  16;  In- Normans  Kill,  227. 


Catskill,  (Catsbergs)  17  ; 
seen  from  Hudson,  29  ;  from 
Columbiaville,  31  ;  from  Alba- 
ny, 35  ;  from  Troy,  36. 
Murder  creek,  154. 

N. 

Natchitoches,  137;  compared 
with  Detroit,  190;  noticed. 
137. 

Newburg,  its  site,  10,  32. 
New-Orleans,  ship  of  the  line  on 
the  stocks  at  Sacket's  Harbor, 
observations  on,  71,  72. 
city  of,  145,  189. 


New-York,  seasons  at  compared 

to  those  at  Albany,  9. 
Niagara,  cataract  of,  described 
by  Mr.  Bouchette,  101. 

by  the  author  of  this  trea- 


tise, 160,  169. 

_  river,  102. 

fort,  170. 


INDEX. 


o. 

Ogdensburgh,  village  of  descri- 
bed, 7,  73,  74,  87,  106. 

Ogden's  Island,  87,  12  t. 

Ogilvie,  Colonel,  his  observations 
respecting  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  Ottawa  rivers,  93  note,  9  6 
note. 

Ohio  river,  contrasted  with  the 
St.  Lawrence,  74,  145. 

 state  of,  boundary  between 

and  Pennsylvania,  177;  range 
of  the  Erie  ridge  through,  182. 

Olean,  or  Hamilton,  on  the  Alle- 
gany river,  145  ;  trausit  of 
merchandise  between  and  tho 
city  of  New- York,  ib.  note. 

Ontario,  lake,  102  ;  its  depth,  103 
104,  108  notes;  noticed  109 
note,  127;  recession  of,  128 
note;  noticed,  129;  interest- 
ing features  of,  xliv.  ad. 

Oppenheirn,  village  of,  47. 

Orleans,  island  of,  1 13. 

 New,  city,  145,  1S9. 

Oswego  river,  104,  217. 

Ottawa  river,  93,  97,  note. 

Otisco  lake,  220,  221. 

Owasco  lake,  2  18. 

Ouse  or  Grand  river,  177,  203. 
P. 

Palatine,  village  of,  46. 

Painesville,  village  of,  178. 

Partridge,  Capt.  Alden,  meas- 
ures Uie  height  of  Fishkil! 
mountains,  11  note;  those  of 
the  Catsbergs,  26  note;  some 
others,  ib. 

Peninsula,  between  Sandusky  and 
Portage  rivers,  and  extending 
between  Sandusky  bay  and  the 
Bass  Islands,  179;  described. 
180,181. 

Perry,  Commodore,  171  note; 
captures  a  British  squadron  on 
lake  Erie,  185  ;  the  vessels  of 
both  flecis  now  in  Eric  harbor, 
Sit. 


Pike,  General,  his  grave,  xliv,  ad. 

Pirn  lands  upon  the  Hudson,  33, 
34;  compared  with  those  of 
Louisiana,  Alabama,  and  Mis- 
sissippi, ib.  j  their  sterile  as- 
pect, 38. 

Faitghkeejysie,  town  of,  21; 
Booth's  factory  at,  ib. 

Prescott,  town  of,  7,  K)7  note. 

Proctor,  General,  defeated  by 
General  Harrison,  211. 

Putnam  county,  14;  taken  from 
Dutchess,  19. 

 General,  15. 

 fort,  its   situation,  13; 

Dr.  Van  Gelder's  poem  upon3 
13  note;  its  scenery,  14,  15. 

Put-in-bay,  100  note,  185,  186. 

Quebec,  city  of,  102,  112,  127. 
Queenstown,  102. 

 heights  of,  203. 

R. 

Raisin,  or  Grape  river,  20 1. 

Rhinebeck,  village,  23* 

Rid?e,  between  lake  Erie,  and 
Ohio  waters,  173;  itselevation, 
175;  visible  near  the  mouth 
of  Grand  river  from  the  en- 
trance into  Sandusky  bay,  179; 
its  range  through  the  state  of 
Ohio,  182;  through  the  state 
of  New- York,  217,  224. 

Rivers,  Ottawa,  Musquinonge, 
St.  Maurice,  St.  Anne,  Jacques 
Cartier,  Saguenay,  Belsiami- 
tes,  Manacouagan,  93. 

Rivers  and  lakes,  their  feature^ 
108  note. 

Rouge,  riviere,  201. 

Route  from  New- York  to  St.  Lou- 
is by  Pittsburg,  &c.  lix.  ad. 

 by  Detroit,  &c.  lix.  ad. 

—  from  New-York  to  De- 
troit, and  down  the  St.  Law- 
rence, to  Quebec,  and  return 
to  New- York,  xlv.  ad.- 

Uv:thnd:  villa-ge,  67. 


INDEX. 


$ 

Sacket's  Harbor,  5  6  ;  country  be- 
tween and  Utica,  57,  70  ;  re- 
view at,  72;  country  between 
and  the  Thousand  islands,  73  ; 
military  works  at,  104  note; 
grave  of  General  Pike,  xliv. 
ad. ;  views  near,  ib. 

Saguenay  river,  93  ;  described. 
97  note. 

Sandwich,  Upper  Canada,  194, 
195. 

Sandusky  bay,  ISO  ;  described, 
181. 

 „  village  of,  185. 

Schenck's  factory  on  the  Mate- 
owan,  (Fishkiil)  16. 

Schenectady,  village  of,  its  dis- 
tance from  Albany,  39  ;  inter- 
mediate country,  ib. ;  situation 
of,  40;  surprised  by  the  sava- 
ges, ib. ;  Union  College  at,  4  !. 

Schoharie  creek,  enters  the  Mo- 
hawk river,  45 ;  described,  227 

Schlosser,  fort,  1 60 

Scott,  General  Winfield,  visits 
Sacket's  Harbor,  72  ;  wounded. 
169. 

Seneca,  lake,  213;  outlet  of,  2 14 

 river,  217. 

Sltawanzunk,  mountain,  20. 
Simcoe,  lake,  97. 
Sisle  rs  Is  la  nds ,  186. 
Skeneateles,  lake,  219. 
Smith's  Gazetteer  of  Upper  Ca- 
nada, quoted,  203. 
Sodus  bay,  described,  126. 
Spafford^s  Gazetteer,  quoted,  32, 

JJ. 

Steam-boats,  their  arrangement 
defective,  9  ;  Walk-in-the- Wa- 
ter, 173  note. 

SI.  Clair,  river,  99. 

  lake,  19  U 

St.  Francis,  lake,  107,  108,  124, 

St.  Lawrence,  river  of,  73  ;  con- 
trasted with  the  Mississippi, 
its  real  commencement,  ib  : 


commerce  upon,  76 ;  compa- 
red to  the  Hudson,  88,  89  f 
table  of  the  surface  drained  by, 
89 ;  contrasted  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, 88;  noticed,  90,  91, 
92,  106  note,  107  note;  excel- 
lent ship  navigation  in,  10& 
note  ;  compared  with  the  Oro~ 
noco  and  Plate  rivers,  ib. ;  con- 
trasted with  the  Amazon  and 
Mississippi,  109  note;  beauty 
of  its  islands,  ib.  note  ;  effect 
of  frost  on,  115,  116;  compa- 
red with  the  Hudson, Delaware, 
Susquehanna,  Rio  de  la  Plate, 
and  Elbe,  116;  quantity  of 
water  in  enormous,  117;  tim- 
ber on  its  shores,  120 ;  features 
of  its  banks  where  visited  by 
the  author,  119;  islands  in 
contrasted  with  those  in  the 
Mississippi,  123  ;  navigation  of 
between  Montreal  andOgdens- 
burgh,  125;  between  Ogdeng- 
burgh  and  Kingston,  125. 

valley  of,  its  natural  ad- 


vantages, 205  ;  climate,  206. 
St.  Regis,  Indians  claim  the  right 
of  soil  to  the  St.  Lawrence 
islands,  125. 
Sugar  river,  66. 

Superior,  lake,  93;  extent  and 

quantity  of  water,  117. 
Susquehanna  river,  223. 
T. 

Table  of  the  area  drained  by  the 
St.  Lawrence,  89  ;  by  the  Mis- 
sissippi, 90. 

of  the  extent  and  quanti- 


ty of  water  in  the  Canadian 
sea,  117. 
—  of  the  stationary  distan- 
ces from  lake  Erie  to  lake 
Huron,  19  1. 
Table  Rock,  near  the  Falls  of 

Niagara,  166  note,  212. 
Thames  river.  II.  C.  100  note : 
described.  202. 


INDEX. 


Thousand  Islands,  described,  74  ; 

their  terminal  ion,  74  5  noticed,4 

105  note. 
Tonneicanta  creek,  its  character 

15  1,  ib.  ;  described,  159. 
Toronto  cliffs,  103. 
Treaty  with  several  nations  of 

savages,  196  note, 
'Trenton,  village  of,  63  ;  adjacent 

country,  ib. 
Tripes  Bill,  45. 
Troup,  Colonel  Robert,  1 30 
Troy,  village  of,  36  ;  situation  of, 

ib. ;  in  what  manner  built,  37  5 

its  environs 
Turkey  Island,  in  Detroit  river, 

i93. 

IT. 

Utica,  village  of,  42  5  country  be- 
tween and  Albany,  ib.  and  se- 
quel 1  occupies  the  site  of  Fort 
Schuyler,  55  ;  latitude,  ib.  ; 
population  of,  56 ;  roads  from, 
ib. 

Union  College  at  Schenectady. 
41. 

V. 

Valleys  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Mississippi,  130  note  5  compa- 
red, 139. 
Venice  village,  184. 
View  near  Utica,  57. 

 from  Newburg,  1  I. 

  from  West  Point, '12. 


View  from  Kingston,  2%. 

—  from  Hudson  village,  29s. 

—  from  Columbiaville,  3!. 

—  near  Albany,  35. 

—  near  Troy,  36. 

—  of  the  country  adjacent  1$ 
Schenectady,  39. 

—  near  Utica,  57. 

—  near  Geneva,  130. 
near  Canandaigua,  13,1. 

—  of  the  Fallsof  Niagara,  164. 

—  from  QueenStown  height', 


—  from  Fort  Putnam,  14. 

—  along  the  Hudson,  20. 

—  of  the  Caisbergs,  from 
Rhinefteci,  24. 


168. 

  from  the  mountains  near 

the  village  of  Cherry  Valley, 
223. 

 of  Sacket?s  Harbor,  xliv.  ad. 

 of  the  grave  of  Gen.  Pike,  ib. 

W. 

Wapplnger's  creek,  19. 
Washington,  General,  14. 
Watertown,  67  5  adjacent  coun- 
try, ib. 

Waik-in-the-  TV rxter,  steam- boat, 
173,  ib.  note;  her  iirst  trip 
from  Bktifald  to  Detroit,  173 

,    note  ;  return  to  Buffalo,  207. 

Waterloo,  village  of,  212. 

West  Foint,  12;  its  local,  13-, 
its  scenery,  14,  15;  students 
at,  their  seclusion,  15. 
Y. 

Fates,  Mr.  his  interesting  history 

of  Canandaigua,  132. 
York,  city  of9  in  Upper  Canada, 

seat  of  government  there,  98, 


THE  END. 


